• Textile Coloration and Finishing
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• v.9 no.5
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• pp.1-9
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• 1997

In the single yarn spinning process by the ring spinning system, the finer the fineness of yarn and the lower the twist coefficient, the lower the breaking strength and breaking elongation. The change of yarn specific volume to yarn number agreed with Peirce's formula in the range of Ne 50 to 70, but above that range the values of the experiment are higher than that of the formula. The change of diameter of yarn to the reciprocal of the square root of yarn number agreed with Peirce's formula in the range of under 0.14, but above that value the values of the experiment are higher than that of the formula. In breaking strength variation according to twist constant of single yarn, as the twist coefficient increased, breaking strength increased. At 5.8∼6.0 of twist coefficient the maximum breaking strength was shown, but above that value breaking strength decreased. Breaking elongation also showed a similar tendency. But at 6.0∼6.5 of twist coefficient the maximum breaking elongation was shown. Also spinning tension increased as twist coefficient increased. Twist coefficient, breaking strength and breaking elongation according to the number of coils stayed almost the same. Yarn spinning tension according to the number of coils at the maximum of diameter was the lowest value. The speed of the traveller at the maximum of diameter was the highest value.

• Textile Coloration and Finishing
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• v.23 no.1
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• pp.35-42
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• 2011

For high quality DTP products, it is important to optimize the parameters of media, pre- and after-treatment, ink, printer, etc. This study investigated the effect of types of fabrics(media) as a DTP parameters. Especially, the effects of media properties such as yarn twist and knitted fabric structure, on printability and color difference were examined. Two types of cotton yarn twist(830 and 1630 twist/meter) and five knitted structures of media were prepared with a single circular knitting machine. The K/S values of hard-twist samples were higher than those of normal-twist samples in every media structures. It is more effective to use the knitted fabrics of a hard-twist yarn to obtain dark color in the printing above input level value 60 where the printability improvement was most pronounced in case of plain structure. Among the five media structures a plain structure was the highest and that of corduroy was the lowest in terms of K/S values. Also ${\Delta}E$ values and lightness of the hard-twist yarn samples were smaller than that of normal-twist yarn samples when ${\Delta}E$ values were tested by using a standard of a normal twist yarn sample with a plain structure, which was increased in the case of corduroy structure.

• Fibers and Polymers
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• v.6 no.1
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• pp.72-78
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• 2005

The impact of fiber friction, yarn twist, and splicing air pressure on mechanical and structural properties of spliced portion have been reported in the present paper. The mechanical properties include the tensile and bending related properties and, in the structural properties, the diameter and packing density of the splices are studied. A three variable three level facto­rial design approach proposed by Box and Behnken has been used to design the experiment. The results indicate that there is a strong correlation between retained spliced strength (RSS) and retained splice elongation (RSE) with all the experimental variables. It has been observed that RSS increases with the increase in splice air pressure and after certain level it drops, whereas it consistently increases with the increase in yarn twist. The RSE increases with the increase in both fiber friction and yarn twist. It has also been observed that the yarn twist and splicing air pressure have significant influence on splice diameter, percent increase in diameter and retained packing coefficient, but the fiber friction has negligible influence on these parame­ters. Yarn twist and splicing air pressure has a strong correlation with splice flexural rigidity, where as poor correlation with retained flexural rigidity.

• Textile Coloration and Finishing
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• v.12 no.2
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• pp.89-95
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• 2000

Effect of twist-setting time, temperature and cylinder layer for the physical properties of the twist yarn were investigated by separated 9 layer from yarn cylinder. Obtained results were as follow. Shrinkage of the yarn in middle layer shows high value with heat-permeation and in inner's shows low value because of cylinder hardness. And then yarn thermal shrinkage in outer layers shows more or less high value because twist yarn in the outer layer sets more faster. Concerning to the difference on the yam physical properties among cylinder layers, the changes on physical properties shows significant differences from the 7th layer to the last one. Linear density, T.P.M and initial modulus decreases but snarl index increases.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.5 no.4
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• pp.408-412
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• 2003

The micro structure of POY was modified and a wool-like touch yarn of composite fibers with different shrinkage was made. With this yarn 12 different fabrics with wool like touch were prepared. The characteristic physical property changes of the fabrics examined are as follows: 1. In all cases, the initial high shrinkage stages were observed in hot water treatment and the 3D images of complex multilayer of typical doubling fibers with different shrinkage were also observed in hot air treatment of 170C. 2. The tensile strength changes of satin and plain fabrics with the change of twist count showed similar behavior. However, WT's were slightly higher and RT's was lower in twill and satin fabrics than those in plain fabric. 3. Since a slight decrease of B's of twill fabric found with increasing twist count under given experimental condition, it could be influenced on the anti-drape stiffness was decreased and flexibility was increased. 4. A significant decrease of G values was observed in the twist count 800-1000 T.P.M However, in the twist count higher than 1000 T.P.M G values observed were kept nearly constant. 5. MIU of plain and twill fabrics showed a drastic decrease at the twist count higher than 1000 T.P.M.

• Textile Coloration and Finishing
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• v.22 no.3
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• pp.282-291
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• 2010

Digital textile printing(DTP) is becoming more important because the production trend of textile printing goods is adapting to small-lot multiple items. Recently enhanced use of DTP is closely connected with production of high value-added products in fashion industry, which is also appropriate for quick response system(QRS). Quality of DTP depends on pre-treatment, after-treatment, ink, media, printer, etc. One of these parameters, Selection of good media is very important to obtain high quality of DTP products. Especially, the effects of media on printing quality of DTP according to yarn twist and structure of knitting fabric were examined in this study. Two types of yarn twist of 830 t.p.m and 1630 t.p.m for cotton knit were used and five types of media structures were knitted with single circular knitting machine. First, MIU, MMD, SMD's values are closely related with surface roughness of sample as well as printing quality. The hard twist samples were higher values than normal twist samples in the same media structure. In case of SMD, the values increased from plain to corduroy types. Second, aspect of line sharpness, line area, and line width values of hard twist samples decreased from plain to corduroy than those of normal twist samples. Third, line deviation values of hard twist samples, blurriness of line, also decreased than those of normal twist samples.

• Textile Coloration and Finishing
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• v.20 no.2
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• pp.47-52
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• 2008

Nylon textured yarn is usually manufactured by disk type false twist texturing. Dyeing properties of nylon textured yam have not been studied yet. In this study, dyeing properties of nylon textured yam according to draw ratio out of process parameters were investigated. The fact that microstructure of nylon textured yarn in amorphous region particularly is transformed by draw ratio was confirmed indirectly by measurement of dyeing rate because dyeing rate was affected by the structure of amorphous region. Dyeing rate at draw ratio 1.29 was the lowest because the higher draw ratio increase amorphous orientation and disturb dye diffusion into amorphous region. The microstructure according draw ratio was indirectly confirmed by 5% strength, tenacity, elongation. But difference in K/S value and fastness was insignificant.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.24 no.3
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• pp.429-439
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• 2000

This study was aimed to investigate the handle and mechanical properties of silk woven fabrics according to the fabric structure and yarn types 56 male and female students evaluated 16 black specimens with semantic differential scale of 20 hand adjectives. Mechanical parameters such as surface properties, bending properties and compression properties were tested using by KES-FS system. Data were analyzed through factor analysis, pearson correlation coefficient and t-test using PC SAS package. The results were as follows: The hand adjectives were grouped as 4 'surface roughness', 'flexibility', ;sense of thermal', and 'dryness'. 'Surface roughness' was highly sensed at satin fabrics of hard-twist yarn, noil yarn and spun yarn, while it was not at the fabrics of normal satin and twill at all. 'Flexibility' was reverse to 'surface roughness'. Thermal sense was felt highly at satin fabrics of noil-yarn, while low at plain fabrics of normal yarn. 'Dryness' was high at satin fabrics of hard-twist yarn and while it was low at normal satin fabrics. Predicted equations for subjective hand from mechanical properties of fabrics were developed using Stevens's law and stepwise regression and the coefficients of determination were high.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.21 no.1
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• pp.1-16
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• 2013

This study analyzed the characteristics of Korean traditional plain weave excavated from Sang-go period to Joseon Dynasty. To do this, this study classified the Korean traditional plain weave into fiber types(cotton, hemp & ramie, plain weaved silk), analyzed and compared the thickness, twist type of yarns and density by times. First, in characteristics of cotton, the average and maximum density of Joseon Dynasty were higher than those of Goryeo, twist type was mainly s-twist and the density of warp was higher than that of weft. Second, the maximum density of hemp & ramie was found in era of Three Kingdoms of Korea. In common characteristics of hemp & ramie, twist type was mainly s-twist(sometimes non-twist) to the Three Kingdoms of Korea and was changed into non-twist from the Goryeo. The density of warp was higher than that of weft in common. Generally, the average density of ramie was higher than that of hemp. Third, in the characteristics of plain weaved silk, twist type was mainly non-twist(sometimes s and z-twist) from Sang-go period to Joseon Dynasty. Warp-faced ribbed tabby was excavated in Goryeo, the average density of warp-faced ribbed tabby was higher than that of other fiber types plain weave. Generally, in all fiber types, the density of warp was higher than that of weft.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.26 no.2
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• pp.355-363
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• 2002

The purpose of this study was to investigate how the weave type, yarn twist fabric count and fiber content of the worsted fabrics affect the subjective sensation of the hand. Thirty worsted fabrics that were mainly used for the spring and fall ladies'suits at national brands were selected. Variables were such as four different kinds of weave types, plain, twill, satin and decorative; two levels of yarn twist, normal and high; various fabric counts; two different fiber contents, pure wool and Lycra contained. Image analysis and wavelet transform techniques were used to quantify the surface fiber, For surface characteristics, MIU, MMD and SMD were measured by KES-FB system. The Questionnaires with 23 adjectives were used for the subjective hand evaluation. Panels were So specialists of fashion or fabric designers and merchandizers. By Factor Analysis, six factors that represent the subjective hand were extracted. The relationship between these factors and structural variables were analyzed. Yarn twist was significantly related to the surface characteristics and resilience. Weave structure affected surface characteristics, volume/warm-cool feeling and resilience. Fabric counts showed relations with volume/warm-cool feeling and the fiber contents with volume/warm-cool feeling, resilience and elastic properties. MIU, MMD and SMD showed no relations with the surface fibers. Subjective sensation of surface characteristics was affected by SMD and surface fibers.