• Journal of Ocean Engineering and Technology
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• v.19 no.4 s.65
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• pp.49-55
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• 2005

We constructed and demonstrated a numerical CADMAS-SURF(V4.0) model that reproduces the wave run-up characteristics on the slope of coastal structures and applied it to a permeable coastal structure. We also compared the numerical model with published experimental results on the hydrodynamic phenomena of structures and some numerical results for a modified Pbreak model. In conclusion, the CADMAS-SURF model efficiently simulated wave run-up on the slope of a permeable coastal structure. The inflow/outflow effects from the porous structure boundary were approximately $15\%$ more than with the modified Pbreak model. Nevertheless, the descriptions of the internal hydraulic characteristics still could not be full!! exacted from the result(Fig. 1 참조)s obtained in our model experiment.

• International Journal of Naval Architecture and Ocean Engineering
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• v.9 no.3
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• pp.282-291
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• 2017

The main aim of this study is to investigate the effect of berm breakwater on wave run-up. A total of 200 numerical analysis tests have been carried out in this paper to investigate the effect of berm width, wave height, and wave period on the wave run-up, using an integrating technique of Computer-Aided Design (CAD) and Computational Fluid Dynamics (CFD). Direct application of Navier Stokes equations within the berm width has been used to provide a more reliable approach for studying the wave run-up over berm breakwaters. A well tested Reynolds-averaged Navier-Stokes (RANS) code with the Volume of Fluid (VOF) scheme was adopted for numerical computations. The computational results were compared with theoretical data to validate the model outputs. Numerical results showed that the simulation method can provide accurate estimations for wave run-up over berm breakwaters. It was found that the wave run-up may be decreased by increasing the berm width up to about 36 percent. Furthermore, the wave run-up may increase by increasing the wave height and wave period up to about 53 and 36 percent, respectively. These results may convince the engineers to use this model for design of berm breakwater in actual scale by calculating the Reynolds numbers.

• Water for future
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• v.28 no.6
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• pp.159-168
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• 1995

The run-up and the evolution of solitary waves on steep beaches are investigated by using a two-dimensional boundary integral equation model. The model is first used to compute the run-up heights of solitary waves on a relatively mind slope. The model is verified by comparing the computed numerical solutions with available experimental data, other numerical solutions and approximated analytical solutions. The agreement between the present numerical solutions and the other data is found to be excellent. The model is then applied to the calculation of run-up heights on very steep slopes. As far as the maximum run-up of solitary waves is concerned, the boundary integral equation model provides reasonable and reliable solutions. Finally, the evolution on steep beaches is also examined and the obtained wave heights are compared with those calculated from the Green's law.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.15 no.2
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• pp.80-85
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• 2003

This paper describes the generation and maximum run-up heights of cnoidal waves with varying periods by the numerical model. The model solves the Reynolds equations and the k-epsilon equations for the turbulent analysis. To track free surface displacements, the volume of fluid(VOF) method is employed. It is shown that profiles of the numerically generated cnoidal waves agree well with analytical solutions. The computed maximum run-up heights are compared with laboratory measurements and those of the boundary element method. The present model provides more agreeable results to laboratory measurements that the boundary element model.

• Ocean and Polar Research
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• v.37 no.1
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• pp.1-9
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• 2015

An approach based on the combined use of a 2D shallow water model and analytical 1D long wave run-up theory is proposed which facilitates the forecasting of tsunami run-up heights in a more rapid way, compared with the statistical or empirical run-up ratio method or resorting to complicated coastal inundation models. Its application is advantageous for long-term tsunami predictions based on the modeling of many prognostic tsunami scenarios. The modeling of the Chilean tsunami on February 27, 2010 has been performed, and the estimations of run-up heights are found to be in good agreement with available observations.

• Ocean Systems Engineering
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• v.4 no.3
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• pp.201-213
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• 2014

Wave run-up is an important issue in offshore engineering, which is tightly related to the loads on the marine structures. In this study, a series of physical experiments have been performed to investigate the wave run-up around a vertical cylinder in transitional water depth. The wave run-ups of regular waves, irregular waves and focused waves have been presented and the characteristics in frequency domain have been investigated with the FFT and wavelet transform methods. This study focuses on the nonlinear features of the wave run-up and the interaction between the wave run-up and the cylinder. The results show that the nonlinear interaction between the waves and the structures might result wave run-up components of higher frequencies. The wave run-ups of the moderate irregular waves exhibit 2nd order nonlinear characteristics. For the focused waves, the incident waves are of strong nonlinearity and the wavelet coherence analysis reveals that the wave run-up at focal moment contains combined contributions from almost all the frequency components of the focused wave sequence and the contributions of frequency components up to 4th order harmonic levels are recommended to be included.

• Journal of Korea Water Resources Association
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• v.34 no.2
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• pp.169-176
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• 2001

The propagation and associated run-up process of tsunami are numerically investigated in this study. A transoceanic propagation model is first used to simulate the distant propagation of tsunamis. An inundation model is then employed to simulate the subsequent run-up process near coastline. A case study is done for the 1960 Chilean tsunami. A detailed maximum inundation map at Hilo Bay is obtained and compared with field observation and other numerical model predictions. A very reasonable agreement is observed.

• Journal of Coastal Disaster Prevention
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• v.1 no.1
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• pp.1-9
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• 2014

In order to examine the characteristics of tsunami run-up heights on impermeable/permeable slope, a numerical wave tank by upgrading LES-WASS-3D was used in this study. Then, the model were compared with existing hydraulic model test for its verification. The numerical results well reproduced experimental results of solitary wave deformation, propagation and run-up height under various conditions. Also, the numerical simulation with a slope boundary condition has been carried out to understand solitary wave run-up on impermeable/permeable slope. It is shown that the run-up heights on permeable slope is 52.64-63.2% smaller than those on the impermeable slope because of wave energy dissipation inside the porous media. In addition, it is revealed that the numerical results with slope boundary condition agreed well with experimental results in comparison with the results by using stair type boundary condition.

• International Journal of Naval Architecture and Ocean Engineering
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• v.6 no.2
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• pp.297-306
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• 2014

The paper presents the numerical analysis of wave run-up over rubble-mound breakwaters covered by antifer units using a technique integrating Computer-Aided Design (CAD) and Computational Fluid Dynamics (CFD) software. Direct application of Navier-Stokes equations within armour blocks, is used to provide a more reliable approach to simulate wave run-up over breakwaters. A well-tested Reynolds-averaged Navier-Stokes (RANS) Volume of Fluid (VOF) code (Flow-3D) was adopted for CFD computations. The computed results were compared with experimental data to check the validity of the model. Numerical results showed that the direct three dimensional (3D) simulation method can deliver accurate results for wave run-up over rubble mound breakwaters. The results showed that the placement pattern of antifer units had a great impact on values of wave run-up so that by changing the placement pattern from regular to double pyramid can reduce the wave run-up by approximately 30%. Analysis was done to investigate the influences of surface roughness, energy dissipation in the pores of the armour layer and reduced wave run-up due to inflow into the armour and stone layer.

• Proceedings of the Korea Committee for Ocean Resources and Engineering Conference
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• 2006.11a
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• pp.457-460
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• 2006

This study is to investigate the variation characteristics of run-up height over sandy beach due to the plane distribution of submerged breakwaters. In this study, Three-Dimensional numerical model with Large Eddy Simulation, which is able to simulate directly WAve Structure Seabed interaction (hereafter, LES-WASS-3D) has been newly developed. A comparison between the numerical model and existing experimental results was made to verify accuracy of newly proposed LES-WASS-3D model, and showed fairly nice agreement. In addition, based on the LES-WASS-3D model, the variation characteristics of run-up height over sandy beach are discussed with relation to the offshore distance and opening width of submerged breakwaters.