• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.15 no.2
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• pp.192-201
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• 2013

This study explores the culture surrounding the dyeing of royal garments in the late Joseon Dynasty. The findings of this study are as follows. First, several dyes were used to color royal garments, such as jicho, honghwa, danmok, simhwang, sambo, goehwa, chija, and namjong. Mordants such as maesil, hwanghoemok, yeohoe, and baekban were also used with the dyes. Second, the Sangeuiwon (尙衣院) was the department in charge of the purchasing of dyes and the entire dyeing practice. It was the Seonhyecheong (宣惠廳) and the Hojo (戶曹) who provided revenue to the Sangeuiwon through a wongong, regular tribute, and a bokjeong (supplementary tribute). Additionally, additional dyes, if found to be insufficient, could be provided by the Hojo. Every year the Hojo provided jicho, honghwa, and danmok to the Sangeuiwon, and sometimes imported namjong from China. Third, royal garments were, in most cases, dyed by the Sangeuiwon's professional dyers and court ladies belonging to the sewing department in each palace. Naenongpo (內農圃) eunuchs were in charge of the indigo crops of each palace. Finally, more dye was used in royal garments than in the clothes of commoners to obtain a deeper shade of color. In addition, dyers tried to achieve a clear and vivid tone in their garments. Silk which absorbed color relatively easily, was dyed inside the palace using an ice vat filled with fresh indigo leaves; however, cotton was difficult to dye and was sent to professional indigo dyers outside the palace.

• The Korean Journal of Food And Nutrition
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• v.25 no.2
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• pp.368-382
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• 2012

This paper investigated the system that is relevant to Jang(fermented soybean paste or solution), the relief of hunger-stricken people by Jang, 33 kinds of Jang, and its consumption in the documents, such as the annals of the Chosun Dynasty, Ihlseong-document, Seungjeongwon daily, Uigwe(record of national ceremony), official documents on the basis of Kyujanggak institute for the Korean studies and data base of Korean classics. There are lots of Jang named after the place of particular soybean's production from the ancient times. Jang, soybean, salt and Meju(source of Jang), during the Dynasty, were collected as taxation or tribute. In the 5th year of Hyeonjong(1664), the storage amount of soybean in Hojo(ministry of finance) was 16,200 $k{\ell}$, and its consumption was 7,694 $k{\ell}$ a year. In the 32nd year of Yongjo(1756), the 1,800 $k{\ell}$ of soybean was distributed to the people at the time of disaster, and in his 36th year(1756), the 15,426 $k{\ell}$ of soybean was reduced from the soybean taxation nationwide. The offices managing Jang are Naejashi, Saseonseo, Sadoshi, Yebinshi and Bongsangshi. Chongyoongcheong(Gyeonggi military headquarters) stored the 175.14 $k{\ell}$ of Jang, and the 198 $k{\ell}$ of Jang in Yebinshi. There are such posts managing Jang as Jangsaek, Jangdoo, and Saseonsikjang. In the year of Jeongjong(1777~1800), the royal family distributed the 3.6 $k{\ell}$ of Meju to Gasoon-court, Hygyeong-court, queen's mother-court, queen's court, royal palace. The 13.41 $k{\ell}$ of Gamjang(fermented soybean solution) was distributed to the Gasoon-court, 17.23 $k{\ell}$ to Hegyeong-court, 17.09 $k{\ell}$ to the queen's mother-court, and the 17.17 $k{\ell}$ to the queen's court each. There are 112 Jang-storing pots in the royal storages, and the 690 are in Namhan-hill, where the 2.7 $k{\ell}$ of fermented Jang was made and brought back by them each year. At the time of starvation, Jang relieved the starving people. There are 20 occasions of big reliefs, according to the annals of the Chosun Dynasty. In the 5th year of Sejong(1423), the 360 $k{\ell}$ of Jang was given to the hunger-stricken people. In his 6th year(1424), the 8,512.92 $k{\ell}$ of rice, bean, and Jang was provided and in the 28th year(1446), the 8,322.68 $k{\ell}$ of Jang was also provided to them. In the Dynasty, Jang was given as a salary. In case that when they were bereaved, they didn't eat Jang patiently for its preservation. They were awarded for their filial piety. In the annals of the Chosun Dynasty, there are 19 kinds of Jang. They are listed in the order of Jang(108), Yeomjang(90), Maljang(11), Yookjang(5), Gamjang(4), and etc.,. In Seungjeongwon daily, there are 11 kinds of Jang. Jang(6), Cheongjang (5), Maljang(5), and Tojang(3) are listed in order. In the Ihlseong-document, there are 5 kinds of Jang. They are listed in Jang(15), Maljang(2), Gamjang(2), and etc.,. There are 13 kinds of Jang in Uigwe, and the official documents, in the order of Gamjang(59), Ganjang(37), Jang(28), Yeomjang(7), Maljang(6), and Cheongjang(5). In addition, shi are Jeonshi(7), and Dooshi(4). All these are made of only soybean except, for Yookjang. The most-frequently recorded Jang among anthology, cookbook, the annals of the Chosun Dynasty, Ihlseong-document, Seoungjeongwon daily, Uigwe, or official document is Jang(372), and then Yeomjang(194), Gamjang(73), Cheongjang(46), Ganjang(46), Soojang(33), and Maljang(26), which were made of soybean. Jang from China in cookbook is not in anthology and royal palace documents. Thus, traditional Jang made of soybean was used in the daily food life in the royal court, and in the public during the Chosun period.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.60 no.5
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• pp.51-70
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• 2010

The ritual to change the hairstyle holds the same meaning as the coming of age ceremony. The ceremony was performed throughout three times including choga, jaega, and samga. The garment and hairstyle attuned to the ceremony formalities. Women in the royal family had 'su-siK when they were fully grown up during choga, 'gwang-sik' during Jaega, and 'keun-meo-ri (big hairstyle)' during samga. 'su-sik' is the noblest hairstyle according to social status, which is allowed to be worn only by spouse of king and prince, regardless of adult or not. During jaega, 'gwang-sik' which was 'u-yeo-meo-ri', is made by winding 'darae (wig)' around a jjok-jin-muri (bun) [Jo-jim-meo-ri]? which distinguished the hairstyle of unmarried women, who did not go through a coming of age ceremony yet. Unmarried women maintained a hairstyle which is mostly twisted into one string, but they had 'saeang-meo-ri' when they were prepared for ceremonial costumes. Also, they had 'ga-raemeo-ri' when growing further. keun-meo-ri during samga is an addition of keun-meo-ri chaebal(wig) onto u-yeo-meo-ri. Women in the royal family made geo-du-mi by adding keun-meo-ri, which is formed by twisting wig, and oimyeongbu (noble ladies) and sanggung (court ladies) added a wooden wig called u-yeo-mi. Also, yeoryeong wore ga-ri-ma. In this way, the types of hairstyles were distinguished according to hierarchy. As the coming of age ceremonial dress. Wonsam was worn. During choga. wonsam was worn as a formal dress and during jaega and samga wonsam was worn as a full dress.

• The Korean Journal of Air & Space Law and Policy
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• v.32 no.2
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• pp.3-31
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• 2017

On 12 October 2017, the English Royal Courts of Justice delivered its decision about air carrier's compensation liability for the flight delay. In the cases the passengers suffered delays at a connecting point and, consequently, on arrival at their final destination. They claimed compensation under Regulation 261/2004 (the "Regulation"), as applied by the Court of Justice of the European Union (the "CJEU") in Sturgeon v. Condor [2009]. The principal issues were whether delays suffered by the passengers during the second leg of their respective journeys were compensable under the Regulation, whether there was jurisdiction under the Regulation and whether the right to compensation under the Regulation is, insofar as non-Community air carriers are concerned, excluded by virtue of the exclusive liability regime established under the Montreal Convention 1999. The passengers, the plaintiff, argued that the relevant delay was not that on flight 1 but that suffered at the "final destination". They maintained that there was no exercise by the EU of extraterritorial jurisdiction as the delay on flight 2 was merely relevant to the calculation of the amount of compensation due under the Regulation. The air carrier, the defendant, however argued that the only relevant flights for the purpose of calculating any delay were the first flights (flights 1) out of EU airspace, as only these flights fell within the scope of the Regulation; the connecting flights (flights 2) were not relevant since they were performed entirely outside of the EU by a non-Community carrier. Regarding the issue of what counts as a delay under the Regulation, the CJEU held previously on another precedents that the operating carrier's liability to pay compensation depends on the passenger's delay in arriving at the "final destination". It held that where the air carrier provides a passenger with more than one directly connecting flight to enable him to arrive at their destination, the flights should be taken together for the purpose of assessing whether there has been three hours' or more delay on arrival; and that in case of directly connecting flights, the final destination is the place at which the passenger is scheduled to arrive at the end of the last component flight. In addition, the Court confirmed that the Regulation applied to flights operated by non-Community carriers out of EU airspace even if flight 1 or flight 2 lands outside the EU, since the Regulation does not require that a flight must land in the EU. Accordingly, the passengers' appeal from the lower Court was allowed, while that of air carrier was dismissed. The Court has come down firmly on the side of the passengers in this legal debate. However, this result is not a great surprise considering the recent trends of EU member states' court decisions in the fields of air transport and consumer protection. The main goal of this article is to review the Court's decision and to search historical trend of air consumer protection especially in EU area.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.28
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• pp.47-64
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• 1996

This paper is a study on the expression of Clothing and Textiles recorded in $\ulcorner Makuranosorsi(枕草子) \lrcorner$ This book was written by a Japanese servant in the Royal Court about the year 10000. In this book many kinds of clothing ornament color and materials were mentioned. The discoveries of this paper were as follows. 1. There were 85 different kinds of name In detail there were 46 Clothing and Accessories 32 Clors 11 Materials Patterns the method of Dyeing. 2. All the Clothing and Textiles in Makur-anosorsi were reflections of the reality of that times. 3. From ancient times japanse Costume was much influenced by Korea. but around the 7th century the influence increased. 4. Almost all clothing and Accessories used in Japan in the 10th century had been pre-viosly used in neighboring countries Korea and China But after they were imported to japan some of them were changed to japans hybrids especially in name and shape. 5. In Japan Clothing Colors were used in various ways sometimes colors coordinated by over lapping dress and othertimes the colors were weaved together Namely the width and length of these colorful fibres are also signifi-cant meaning. This meas that the Japanese was much more interested in color than other countries and this also proves Clothing Colors were very developed in japan by the 10th cen-tury. 6. The Materials discovered in this book were almost all silk This is the reason why $\ulcorner Makuranosorsi \lrcorner$ was the expression of the Royal Court.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.12 no.1
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• pp.73-89
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• 2004

The following is a summary of comparative study on costumes between 『Cheng-Hoe-Jeon-Do』 and 『Chen-De-dang-an』 in Gun-Ryung 41st, 42nd and 43rd yew to find out costume situation actually worn by Emperor Gun-Ryung in Qing dynasty. In Gun-Ryung 41st year, Emperor's costumes showed a sign of royal tour robes. In 42nd year, a phase of mourning robe system came out and a plain side of costumes was shown owing to the mourning. In 43rd year, it showed costume situation worn by Emperor in peaceful year without any particular event. Velvet, material for traveling crown was used in a short time before and after the change of the season besides royal tour and this can be understood as a well-timed and reasonable selection of material. Eventhough robe material, Jik-kyung-Ji-chack-sa(a kind of silk) had been used for summer robes since Gun-Ryung 42nd you. Memorial costumes followed Emperor's court costume system I in 『Cheng-Hoe-Jeon-Do』 and court belt I or II as memorial suit belt was used for the memorial costume of Emperor Gun-Ryung and they properly applied of the costume system in 『Cheng-Hoe-Jeon-Do』 for coats.

• (The)Study of the Eastern Classic
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• no.48
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• pp.117-145
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• 2012

Gongsageunmunrok is a book that was edited by Jung Jae-ryun. He edited and chose some stories good enough to be an role model to descendants. There were all about 310 stories in that book. A forth of them is story about women. There were 4 types of women in the book. cautious women and women to see through a covered fact.Women who have a lot of authority, women who ask a man something, The women cautious women are generally a royal family. They tried to stabilize their royal family and nation. The way to stabilize was a good behavior. Women who have authority harms equitably and authenticity of official business. Requesting women, also, harm fairness of official business. Gongsageunmunrok has many different meanings like the following. First of all, There are women life of royal family's women in the book. Second, It is the book which can be based on later stories about women. Lee Geng-ik(李肯翊) rewrote on Yeunreusilgisul(燃藜室記述). Especially, Kim Reu rewrote the story titled 'Hansukwonjeon(韓淑媛傳)'. Sung Hae-eung,also, rewote Han Bo-hyang's story. Third, There are many stories with the life of court maid. It is useful to study all the life of court maid, political events and current events. Forth, It describes with women's aspects. Therefore many women's clique can be understood. Fifth, It can show women's literary work and a phase of women's literary activity.

• Journal of the Korean Institute of Traditional Landscape Architecture
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• v.40 no.4
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• pp.1-14
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• 2022

The ancient North-East Asian royal garden is divided into three types, located in the north inside the palace, in the north outside the palace, and in the south inside or outside the palace, depending on the location relationship between the royal capital and the royal palace. The first is a typical royal garden that follows the ancient Chinese court system of the Chao-hu-chim(前朝後寢). The second is a royal garden located independently of the royal palace, which extends to Geumwon(禁苑). The third is located in the south of royal palace and is the royal garden specialized in Yurak(遊樂) or Hyangyeon(饗宴). The types of ancient North-East Asian royal gardens are classified according to the relationship between main palace(正宮) and secondary palace(別宮), detached palace(離宮), and Geumwon(禁苑), and each has unique characteristics. The first has been established as the garden of the main palace, including the royal garden at Wanggung-ri site in Iksan(益山 王宮里 遺蹟), Han Chang'an capital(漢 長安城), BeiWei Luoyang capital(北魏 洛陽城), Jiankang capital in Southern Dynasties(南朝 建康城), and Daminggong(大明宮) in Tang Dynasty. Here, the royal garden is divided into Naewon(內苑) inside the royal palace and Geumwon(禁苑), outside the royal palace. On the other hand, the second is the royal garden that the royal palace and Geumwon(禁苑) are united. The third is the royal garden that forms part of the royal palace or is independent of the royal palace, and has been specialized as a secondary palace(別宮) and detached palace(離宮). China created the model of ancient North-East Asian royal gardens, and based on this, Baekje, Silla, and Japan of Korea influenced each other and developed a unique palace by showing their originality. The royal garden at Wanggung-ri site in Iksan(益山 王宮里 遺蹟) was influenced by royal gardens of Wei-Jin and Northern & Southern Dynasties(魏晉南北朝). And royal gardens of the Sabi Capital(泗沘都城) were influenced by royal gardens of Jin(秦), Han(漢), Sui(隋), and Tang(唐), and royal gardens of Silla(新羅) were influenced by the royal gardens of Baekje(百濟) and Silla. However, each of these royal gardens also has its own unique characteristics. From this aspect, it can be seen that the ancient North-East Asian court had different lineages depending on the region. Anhakgung Palace in Pyongyang(平壤 安鶴宮) is more likely to be viewed as the Three Kingdoms period than the Goryeo Dynasty. However, it is difficult to raise it to the 5th and 6th centuries due to the overlapping relationship and relics of the lower part of Anhakgung Palace(安鶴宮), and it is generally presumed to be the middle of the 7th century. The royal garden at Anhakgung Palace is a secondary palace(別宮) or detached palace(離宮) that corresponds to the palace of Jang-an capital(長安城) in Pyongyang and is believed to have influenced Dongwon garden(東院庭園) of Heijokyu(平城宮) and Donggung(東宮) and Wolji(月池) in Gyeongju. From this point of view, Dongwon garden(東院庭園) of Heijokyu(平城宮) seems to be related to the palaces of Goguryeo, Baekje, and Silla. This study has many limitations as it focuses on its characteristics and transitions due to the location of the palace in the large framework of ancient North-East Asian royal capital. If these limitations are resolved little by little, it is expected that the understanding of ancient North-East Asian royal gardens will be much wider.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Food Culture
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• v.34 no.5
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• pp.508-533
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• 2019

This study investigated the Sachanbalgi, which record the royal feasts given by the royal family of the Joseon Dynasty of Korea. These records are contained within the Gungjung Balgi, which recorded the types and quantity of items used in royal court ceremonies. The Eumsikbalgi is the general name for the records of food found within this document. Using these Eumsikbalgi, and in particular the Sachanbalgi, this study investigated the food eaten and bestowed by the Joseon royal family. The Sachanbalgi describes four categories or occasions of feasts: royal birthdays, childbirth, royal weddings, and funerals. These records allow us to reconstruct who the attendees were and what the table settings and food were for instances not directly indicated in oral records, books, or other documents. The food at these Sachan (feasts) was diverse, being related to the specific event, and its contents varied based on the position of the person who was receiving the food. Usually, Bab (rice) was not found at a Sachanbalgi, and only on two occasions were meals with Bab observed. Specifically, it was served with Gwaktang (seaweed soup) at a childbirth feast. There were seven kinds of soups and stews that appeared in the Sachanbalgi: Gwaktang, Yeonpo (octopus soup), Japtang (mixed food stew), Chogyetang (chilled chicken soup), Sinseonro (royal hot pot), and Yukjang (beef and soybean paste). Nureumjeok (grilled brochette) and Saengchijeok (pheasant), and Ganjeonyueo (pan-fried cow liver fillet) and Saengseonjeonyueo (pan-fried fish fillet) were eaten. Yangjeonyueo, Haejeon, Tigakjeon (pan-fried kelp) and other dishes, known and unknown, were also recorded. Boiled meat slices appeared at high frequency (40 times) in the records; likewise, 22 kinds of rice cake and traditional sweets were frequently served at feasts. Five kinds of non-alcoholic beverages were provided. Seasonal fruits and nuts, such as fresh pear or fresh chestnut, are thought to have been served following the event. In addition, a variety of dishes including salted dry fish, boiled dish, kimchi, fruit preserved in honey, seasoned vegetables, mustard seeds, fish, porridge, fillet, steamed dishes, stir-fried dishes, vegetable wraps, fruit preserved in sugar, and jellied foods were given to guests, and noodles appear 16 times in the records. Courtiers were given Banhap, Tanghap, Myeonhap, wooden bowls, or lunchboxes. The types of food provided at royal events tracked the season. In addition, considering that for feasts food of the royal household was set out for receptions of guests, cooking instructions for the food in the lunchbox-type feasts followed the cooking instructions used in the royal kitchen at the given time. Previous studies on royal cuisine have dealt mostly with the Jineosang presented to the king, but in the Sachanbalgi, the food given by the royal family to its relatives, retainers, and attendants is recorded. The study of this document is important because it extends the knowledge regarding the food of the royal families of the Joseon Dynasty. The analysis of Sachanbalgi and the results of empirical research conducted to reconstruct the precise nature of that food will improve modern knowledge of royal cuisine.

• Korean Journal of Heritage: History & Science
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• v.50 no.4
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• pp.64-81
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• 2017

Among the royal ceremonies of the Joseon Dynasty era, the articles used in the Jinjak ceremony are symbolic icons of their value during the era. It is very important to identify the purpose of the articles whose usage is ambiguous, by referring to various historical records. Moreover, it should be possible to classify the characteristics and the special context of the article during this process. To accomplish this purpose, I examined the articles related to and used in the processes of Jinjak ceremonies of Outer Jinchan of Myeongjeongjeon and Inner Jinchan of Jagyeongjeon, which are part of the Gichuk Jinchan Ceremony performed in February of the 29th year of King Sunjo. Especially, the definition of Jinjak will not just be limited to the action of offering liquor, but will include the whole series of procedures in offering the liquor. This is because the specific action of offering the liquor expresses cultural concepts and values that have meaning within the historical situation and context in the specific action of offering the liquor. There are three characteristics of the articles related to the Jinjak process of Outer Jinchan and Inner Jinchan of Gichuk Jinchan Ceremony. First, the articles of Jinjak are ranked strictly exactly according to the social status rankings. Second, the Jinjak articles are arranged for their symbolic meanings rather than their purpose. Third, the articles of Jinjak are symbolic icons expressing the values inherent in the process of offering liquor. Recently, there are events reviving the royal court banquet and the increase of interest in the royal culture. It such a situation, the systematic examination of articles of royal court banquets will be a process needed to restore the royal ceremony correctly in the future, and will be the foundation for studying the royal culture of the Joseon dynasty era.