• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.7 no.4
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• pp.105-120
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• 2003

Culture and society exist in the present, but they came from the past. So did clothing. As dressing is deeply based on culture pattern of the times, it is affected by various culture patterns and still keeps developing in modern times. This study is intended to examine the features of retro fashion on culture and dressing of the 19th century. The features of retro fashion on Neoclassical and Romantic culture and dressing are objection to the existing pattern, recursion to the past, and creativity characteristic of pattern of those days. Neoclassicism arose as it rejected Baroque and Rococo style, and imitated culture and artistic pattern of Greece and Rome. Romanticism objected to formal and universal pattern of Neoclassicism, and imitated Gothic style while recognizing historical facts and studying medieval times. Dressing in Neoclassicism did not accept exaggerated and luxurious Rococo pattern, and imitated simple, soft and straight silhouette of Greece and Rome and created its unique Empire Style. Romanticism imitated luxurious style of Renaissance, the Middle Ages, Baroque, and Rococo, different from simple and straight neoclassical style during the Bourbon restoration, and created its unique style. Thus, it is shown that retro fashion on Neoclassical and Romantic culture and dressing reflect the style of those days.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.5 no.1
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• pp.25-33
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• 2003

Rococo, which is represented as immoderate pleasure and luxurious aristocratism, had required to be liberal and unconventional in art and life, and the hairstyles were also much more fantastic, huge, and splendid than ever. Women's hairstyles in the early 18th century were the relatively simple style of Pompadour style that didn't inflate hairs and combed them backward. Then, as changes in haristyles began to appear in around 1760, the styles became gradually higher and huger, and very queer styles also appeared. In the 1780s, they ornamented these hairdos by using various things. This can be considered as women's behaviors that showed off their status and wealth instead of their husbands. Although men's hairstyles were not as huge and decorative as women's, wigs were worn frequently. Wigs became smaller and simpler than those in 17C, and while wearing them, they made wigs whitened by spraying hair-powders enough not to recognize their ages. Several names such as Pig tail, Ramilleis, Bag wig, Brigadiere, and so on existed, according to the way to tie the wigs. Somewhat exaggerated men's hairstyles were shown by Macaronis in 1780s. However, this can be regarded to reflect the situation of the age.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.56 no.1 s.100
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• pp.13-31
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• 2006

This study will explore Rococo chinoiserie not only as a prominent style of the decorative arts in general, but also as an important factor that influenced $18^{th}$ century fashions in dress. Two premises support the conclusion of this study. One is that the chinoiserie is truly a hybrid, a totally new style resulting from the mixture of various traditional elements from the East and the West, with little regard for the authentic nature of the original styles. The other is that the geographical scope for defining the chinoiserie influence in the Rococo fashion can be expanded beyond its lexical meaning; the style eventually encompassed visual cues from various Eastern cultures including China, India and Turkey. Regardless of the specific origins, the oriental influences for Rococo fashion can be categorized into two types. The first type is a complete appropriation of structural elements of Eastern clothing, such as pagoda hats, pagoda sleeves, turbans decorated with plumes or fur-trimmed open robes and then combining them with Western dress. These exotic and fancy dress ensembles were worn as masquerades, theatrical costumes or portraits. One extraordinary example is the banyan, a man's dressing gown, which also had a place in everyday life, not just as special costume. Although the banyan became more tailored as time passed, the traditional shape of this Eastern garment was accepted unaltered in the beginning of the $18^{th}$ century. The second type of influence shows in the use of eastern textiles, especially silks, which were made into women's dress. It did not matter to the fashionable lady if her dress was made of the silk produced in China or a European copy of the Chinese original, as long as it satisfied her taste. It is difficult to detect the signs of exotic style from a glance in this type of chinoiserie dresses since it was more ambiguous and conservative adaptation of the oriental influence in Rococo dress styles than the first type. In this study, various oriental influences appearing in $18^{th}$ century Rococo fashions can be defined as part of the chinoiserie style based upon the suggested premises. No matter what the origin of these oriental fashions was, this hybrid of the East and West made one of great impacts on the most frivolous and splendid period of western fashion history.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.61 no.8
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• pp.73-84
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• 2011

Upholstery style is the form which bulges a shape by putting fillings in the support and covering them with patterned textile or pile fabric. Modern upholstery style was combined with the various socio-cultural products and artistic styles and expressed in interior furniture and costumes of historical time periods. The style first originated when people built houses for settlement and made furniture to decorate its interior. The characteristics of upholstery style came to be prominent in the Renaissance, Baroque and Rococo times with the development of science and textile industry. The interior furniture represented the ages of the Renaissance, Baroque and Rococo and were made with similar images of the architectural style from those different time periods. Textiles, tapestry, velvet, corduroy, damask, brocade, and the most frequently used velvet are elements that make up the structural and figurative features of the architectural style. The upholstery style of furniture also shows the forms of clothing that represents each of the different periods. This style still continues to be used today. In modern day fashion, the figurative characteristics of the upholstery style that derives from interior furniture and clothing from the different time periods are bulkiness, asymmetry and exoticism. Such figurative characteristics have evolved through the combination of diverse genres but it still maintains similar designs and forms.

• Archives of design research
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• v.13 no.4
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• pp.115-123
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• 2000

The purpose of this study was to examine the application tendency about the interior elements of the western classical style which appears in Korean residential space. The examined objects were 324 pictures of 99 residential spaces from the different monthly magazines between Sep.1994 to Sep.1999. The results of this study were as follows: 1. The tendency of application according to the kind of space, it has appeared much in Iivingroom, master bedroom and dining room of apartments and houses. As for the single application in residential space, Rococo and Neo-Classic style was shown most, and the cases applied through the mixture of Renaissance style and Nee-classic style appeared most. 2. The tendency of application arroding to the interior elements of space, the wall of Nee-Classic style and the ceiling of Renaissance style, the window and door of Nee-classic style, and the furniture of Rococo style were being applied much.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.14 no.5
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• pp.128-144
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• 2010

The purpose of this study is to define the origin of name 'Watteau gown' which is controversial by analyzing a Watteau gown, represented in the paintings by Jean Antoine Watteau, an artist in the Rococo era, and clarify the shape and composition of a Watteau pleats which characterizes the Watteau gown and the morphological characteristic of the silhouette of the Watteau gown. Theoretical review and empirical research was simultaneously conducted. The theoretical review considered social backgrounds from late 17th century to early 18th century when Watteau actively worked and a background of forming the style of Fete galante. The empirical research was conducted by sampling 106 pieces of costume from Watteau's 65 paintings collected and classifying according to morphological shapes and composition. Based on this result, it is suggested that the Watteau gown was very prevalent as women's costume early in the 18th century. The Watteau gown, robe volante, robe battante, sack gown and robe a la Francaise were developed and modified from one gown which started from the same source in some connection. This study has significant meaning that it defines the origin of Watteau gown and Watteau pleats found in women's costume in the Rococo era. Furthermore this study will contribute to the practical use of costume elements of 18th century which are beautiful and artistic in aesthetics as the source of contemporary fashion.

• Korean Institute of Interior Design Journal
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• no.23
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• pp.50-57
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• 2000

The purpose of this study was to examine the application tendency about the elements of the western classical style which appears in Korean commercial space. The examined objects were 436 pictures of 106 commercial spaces from the different monthly magazines between Sep. 1994 to Sep. 1999. The results of this study were as follows: 1. The tendency of application according to the kind of space, it has appeared much in restaurants and cafes which are being made into high-class centering around Kangnam area. As for the single application in commercial space, Renaissance style was shown most, and the cases applied through the mixture of Renaissance style and Neo-classic style appeared most. 2. The tendency of application arroding to the composition elements of space, the wall of Renaissance style and N대-classic style appeared similarly, and the ceiling of Renaissance style, the window and door of N대-classic style, the column of Renaissance style, and the furniture of Rococo style were being applied much.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.25 no.4
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• pp.458-475
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• 2017

Opera is the most comprehensive musical art. In recent years, contemporary opera worlds has seen a variety of attempts to reinterpret operas of the past in a modern light. This has resulted in a dramatic change in the production of musical style and stage art. The purpose of the study was to modernize and streamline opera costumes by extending the scope of existing stage costume design, through the reinterpretation and application of the decorative elements in the Middle Age of Rococo, such as ruffles, frills, shirring, embroidery, buttons, etc., in such a way as to effectively communicate the moods of an opera to a modern audience. The costumes of the Rococo period were reinterpreted in a modern way, with the following results. First, in this work, the male main character was played by a bass to express the image of an older, lazy, rich man. A key element in modernizing the stage costume was selection of the costume color in such a way as to visually represent the voice tones sung by the major characters in the opera. Second, the maid hat and aprons were decorated with frills by applying the curves of Rocaille decoration from the Rococo period symbolize the role of the maids. This represented the distinction between occupation according to class and status at that time, while also expressing the ideals of modern feminine beauty. This makes for more comfortably-worn costumes, and is economical for production expenses. In the future, the stage costume design for classical opera will need to be revised consideration of a modern viewpoint.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.63 no.2
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• pp.82-97
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• 2013

The aim of this thesis is to investigate the change of men and women's costumes in late 18th century and early 19th century in view of its ideological streams by examining the portraits of the painter Jacques-Louis David. The method of investigation used was to select 29 pieces of portraits from 1766 to 1825, which showed the clear descriptions about the costumes and to analyze the costume's forms, ornaments and the headdress. The category was divided into 3 stages in terms of the changes in costume. The first stage, from 1766 until 1788, is the one of turnaround from the Rococo costume to the early neoclassical one. The typical Rococo costume was incrementally transformed into a simpler design without ornaments, and then natural silhouette in men and women's costumes started to appear from 1783 until 1788. This might be attributed to the neoclassical trend which was affected by the enlightenment ideology. The second stage, from 1788 until 1795, is the period of change from the costume of the early neoclassic style to the typical neoclassic style and also the time from the 1793 to 1795 was regarded as the peak of neoclassic style when the effect of enlightenment began to decrease while one of neoclassicism exerted its strong influence on the costume. The third stage, from 1795 until 1825, similar to the previous neoclassical style was also notable in its turning into producing the empire dress of Empire style. From 1820 on, it was a period that showed signs of influence from romanticism while the effect of neoclassicism started to become more diminished.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.10 no.1
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• pp.97-104
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• 1986

The change and development of costume are related to the cultural and socioeconomic factors. In the 18th century the mode of the women's costume in France was greatly influenced by the Rococo style. Elegance and exaggerated ornaments were the major characteristics of the woman's cos-tume in the Rococo period. The high hairdress and the widely hooped panier represented the typical Rococo fashion. From the second half of the 18th century onwards the aristocracy began to lose the battle with the bourgeoisie for political and economic power, and at the same time bourgeoisie fashion exerted an influence on court dress. The court fashion dominated the women's dress fashion in France up to the Revolution. Marie Antoinette, The Queen of Louis XVI, was one of the most influential fashion leaders in the lath century. The fashion, after attaining its highest point in 1770s, changed to a new direction in 1780s under Louis XVI. From that period onward the dimensions were smaller, hairdresses were not so high, and the trimming on the various garments was less liberal. In the mode, exaggeration was replaced by simplicity, and formality was replaced by functionalism.