The purpose of the this study is to make a historical review of changes in the structural decorations of men's costume from ancient times to modern times and to provide basic materials for developing handicraft decoration techniques and sewing methods in contemporary fashion. Their gorgeousness of collars and sleeves reached its peak along with the exaggerated expression of the human body during the Renaissance when people were free from Christian traditions of the Middle Ages and pursued human pleasures. Huge and decorative collars gave great dignity and formality to the wearer. Sleeves were slim and cuffs were small or nonexistent after the French Revolution. Various decorated pockets had been developed since pockets began to be attached to coats in the 17th century. Pockets were at the bottom of coat in the late 17th century, but they were gradually placed much higher on the coat. Buttons began to be used as the tool for sticking fast body to clothes in the 12th century and became extremely sumptuous accessories in the $16th{\sim}18th$ centuries. Men's clothes were simpler and more practical after the French Revolution. The result was that decorative buttons begun to disappear and metal buttons came out for practical purpose. The number of buttons worn on sleeves was also noticeably reduced. This research suggested the possibility that various decoration techniques could create the unique details in the each part of clothes. In order to develop high value-added products, we need to study various decoration-sewing methods and put to practical use them for creative fashion design.
This thesis is designed to take a close look into the characteristics of architectural space through the standard of beauty, which has been created apart from our desires at certain cultural or historical periods of time. It will try to construct the outline of conception about the beauty throughout many centuries. First of all, contents of the research will focus on the aspects, which people have been considering as beauty eversince the ancient time without having any assumptions on its concept. For example, if the beauty of art has been accepted by the theories of modern aesthetics while degrading the beauty of nature, its value could have possibly been much more appreciated. The standard of beauty has been going through the process of change in such history of mankind. The general standard of beauty, which was established in the ancient time was the proportion and harmony between many elements. Afterwards, beauty was expressed as colors and light in medieval times. Expression of beauty using ugly features such as monsters or demons also existed at the time. Beauty has been periodically developing from supernatural to gracious, rational, noble, romantic, religious, mechanical, and today's media. The concept of beauty established from the above has been appearing throughout various culture such as dress and decoration at the given period of time. It would later affect the formation of space as well as decoration for architectures and styles. It will be analyzed throughout the five design elements; style, composition, materials, components, and form. The thesis would like to find the spatial order of beauty from the result of the analysis. The analysis will examine the possibility for which the recomposition of beauty will be provided as a design process for the new era. The Greek beauty represents a shape. The shape represents proportion and the proportion represents given numbers. However, beauty is being expressed by the opposite process at the present time. In other words, computers will arrange the numbers, which would formalize the proportion between the numbers. Beauty would be presented when the shape is presented as certain forms.
The purpose of this study is to abstract the image from black dress, which has been favored by many people regardless of the times and examine it throughout the history of drss and thereby clearly define the images that black limplies in dress. Color image is a visual symbol, an image that forms through a combination of visual stimulus created by color, coupled with all the external factors related to it. Black is a one-dimensional color, of which the impact is subjective to its energy, which depends on light reflected on the object, and its texture. Therefore, black projects different images, depending on its surroundings. In general, black has had negative connotations in the Western culture. In dress, however, it has implied other various images different from the general negative ones. By combining general images of black and those exprssed in dress, major images of black were categorized into dignity, elegance, eroticism, asceticism and tragedy. Dignity is a category similar to the sublime. Dress with dignity has sharp contours and is generally made of velvet or silk which can be characterized by their splendor and voluminous-ness, exaggerating the body of a person wearing it. Such costume is mostly found in powerful countries in history such as Burgundy Court in the 15C, Spain in the 16C. Netherlands in the 17C. Elegance evokes grace and beautifulness. It includes elegance, grace, beauty and dandyism as subcategories or silk. Good examples are dandies' black costume and Ladies black and white dressees in the 19C. Eroticism is an image which expresses sexual attractiveness. Costume with eroticism is made of velvet or silk, which project sumptuousness through reflection. Such costumes expose parts of the body or are tightly tailored in order to emphasizes body contours. Asceticism means restraint from physical and mental desires. Costume with asceticism makes a person wearing it look smaller by covering the whole body. Puritan's black dresses and Bourgeoisie's black suit are good examples. Tragedy is anguish. sorrow. Black costume with grievous feelings such as mourning dresses is made of lusterless textile concealing most of the body except for the face.
This study is concerned with the process of development and architectural characteristics of secular stained glass in the 20th century. Stained glass had been architectural art from the origin. But it had declined since the Renaissance era, and began to revive in the early 20th century. Stained glass work is very flourish in Korea today, but it is still treated as simple decoration or 2-dimensional mosaic. Architect and interior designer even have little understanding of architectural character of stained glass. In order to recover the architectural nature of stained glass, I have considered the process of development of secular stained glass in the 20th century, and analysed the works of Frank Lloyd Wright, the postwar German artists, Georg Meistermann, Ludwig Schaffrath, Johannes Schreiter, and English artist, Brian Clarke. Major findings of the study are as followings : First, stained glass has come to life again from the secular glass painting decoration in the end of the 19th century, through Art-Nouveau, De Stil, Bauhaus in the beginning of the 20th century, and L'Art $Sacr\acute{e}$. Second, Frank Lloyd Wright, the postwar German artists and Brian Clarke have established the architectural concept and potentiality of the modem stained glass in the secular field. Third, They have done by coming back to the basic creative method by traditional lead-came technique in spite of the development of various materials and techniques. Forth, stained glass fundamentally has architectural characteristics as the characters of Space, Time, Place, Context, and they have showed the new possibility of stained glass by recovery of these characters.
This paper provides a case study to explore the Kitakyushu case as a good referential example on STP development for rejuvenation of declining industrial city. The major data for the case, basically, has been sourced from some materials published by the municipality of Kitakyushu City, the website of the Kitakyushu Science and Research Park (KSRP) etc. The City of Kitakyushu has promoted the KSRP development to overcome industrial decline and stimulate city renaissance as a new industrial city. The core of the development was to develop a high-level education and research environment by gathering several HEIs into one campus. Based on the environment, the Kitakyushu Foundation for the Advancement of Industry and Science and Technology (FAIS) played the critical role as a coupler to make various networks and boost industry-academiaadministration innovation. The KSRP, and then, has been designated as a project area of some cluster projects initiated by the central government. It means that local projects can be synchronized, synergized and synthesized with national projects in the KSRP. In addition, through a series of the environmental approach from the Kitakyushu Eco-town Project to the Low Carbon Society Project, the development of the KSRP is being extended into the region. In the Kitakyushu case, networking is the essence of the KSRP development from the planning stage. First of all, the plan put emphasis on networking of academia for the knowledge creation based on competitive collaboration that is expected as the mainspring of rejuvenating declining industrial area and making a new industrial city that the plan aimed. Then, the roles of two organizations are very important for networking, especially networking of networks: the Campus Management Committee as an interface and the FAIS as a coupler. STP development without some strategic considerations for networking as the way of interaction among its participants cannot be a tool to promote innovation and rejuvenate a declining industrial area. The Kitakyushu case mentioned above explains the matter clearly.
현대미술에 있어서 프린트는 시각이미지 분야에서도 판화가 지닌 특성을 유지하면서도 동시에 대중의 욕구를 충족하고 소통하는 데에 있어서 전위성을 띠고 있다. 그것은 판화의 형식이 르네상스 시기의 라인컷(Line Cut)에서부터 칼라 프린트의 프로세스, 사진, 20세기의 카툰의 시작, 그리고 광고와 예술, 그래픽 포스터로 이어지는 다양한 표현과 매개체의 변화에서 보듯이 고정적이기 보다는 유동적인 매체로서 복잡하고 다양한 문화 지형 속에서 말-언어보다는 개인들의 욕구와 특성을 원활히 소통할 수 있는 시각 언어 행위로써의 그 역할을 훌륭히 수행해왔음을 알 수 있다. 이 연구는 대중문화의 전위언어로서 프린트들, 즉 판화가 정치와 경제 분야에서 첫 번째, 언어와 그림언어간의 특성의 차이들과 그것들이 우리의 감각적인식이나 행동에 어떻게 작용하는 가를, 그래픽 포스터의 구체적인 특성에 초점을 맞추었으며, 두 번째로는 판화예술이 순수 예술로서 그 언어적인 행위를 어떻게 수행해 왔는가를 연구하는 데에 있다.
This study* 1) historically considered the meaning of light which has frequently wed as the subject of artistic expression since Renaissance, in order to grasp an artistic atmosphere about light and rays before the allusion of Rayonism. non it inspected closely the course of changes of light as a result of historic circumstances and intended to understand how Rusian Rayonism of the 20th, which maintained these effects of light more rationally, had an influence on modern fashion. It was created by Mikhail Larionov and developed by his wife, N. Goncharova. The main special feature of Rayonism wag the crossing of reflected ras, emerging from various objects. Most of these things depended on line and color. Re purpose of Rayonism paintings was to create a new space from arising from which reflected rays from various selected objected crossed one another. Namely, artists maintained that they should give up various objects of visible world and express rays which were reflected objects and crossed in complex. Rayonists were affected by Cubism and Futurism and came to fake an interest in relations whose rays of parallel or convergent color made, also in expression of themes. Since that, Rayonsim affected Supermatisme and Constructivism. Re pursuit of light and rays from the 19th until the early 20th came to appear in fashion as well as in art as it was. As Rayonists created a new space from which reflected rays from selected objects crossed one another, they used line and color as the main techniques of expression. in this way the attempt which intended to express rays, using itself of the line and color, appeared as futile design of tots of designs like Donna Karan, Cianni Versace and Rococo Barocco and so on of Modem fashion. This was designed for essential elements of pure art to express the new aestheic consciousness through fashion.
Centered on Durand and Le Corbusier, this study analyses the changing status of the grid and axis in modern architecture. In the Renaissance, the taxis grid operated as a contour grid, defining the elements and space of the building as part of closed harmonized world. In his Pre'cis des lec., ons d'architecture, Durand provides the most explicit demonstration of a new modem grid in which its lines function as spatial and structural axes. In principle these axes are coordinates for the placements of a priori elements but in Beaux-Arts practice, as Durand himself acknowledged, they involve a simultaneous process in which the spatial axis sets up the basic parti and the structural axis is developed into the building's poche'. As a coordinate, Durand's grid provides a place for the 'subject' to enter the architectural process. At the same time, it is the object of the subject's gaze, the dense site of the subject's transformative actions. Though Le Corbusier is noted for his frequent attacks on the academic system, his architecture should be seen within the continuity of the classical tradition. He redefines the Beaux-Arts axis as a moving and seeing observer, and continues the discipline of the plan, the essential discipline of the Beaux-Arts system. In his dialectics, an intellectual scheme which extends to his commentators, the intention and will of the subject must come in tune with the objective material form of the building. Like Durand, Le Corbusier's axis provides the medium for the subject to enter. Unlike the Beaux-Arts system, however, Le Corbusier's mobile subject no longer has a holistic view of the building previously provided by the central axis. If there is a parti for Le Corbusier, it consists of the domino grid as a potential, but nonetheless, tangible form. In comparison with the Beaux-Arts structural grid, his gaze no longer lingers on their lines because they no longer constitute a formal process tied to the development of a thick articulated structure. Le Corbusier's grid constitutes a 'loose' form, one that breaks down the hierarchical nature of the Beaux-Arts system.
This study provides a descriptive and analytical account of major aspects of urban development and transformation of housing types of Italian Firenze from the 13th century to the 19th century. It is a typo-morphological depiction of urban spatial structure of the extraordinary city, Firenze, the center of Italian Renaissance. And this study has proceeded on the assumption that the evolving form of the urban structure and housing types cannot be understood without reference to the larger context of political, economic, and social life. Based on these backgrounds, the purpose of this study is threefold: to provide a comprehensive discussion of general characteristics of urban spatial structure of Firenze, and to explain the process of formation of working-class neighborhoods by constructing new city wall in later 13th century, and to discuss transformation of housing types of the working-class neighborhood with understanding the mechanism of existence of housing in the newly formed residential neighborhoods. The development of residential neighborhoods was pursued by 'planned' manner through forming square-shaped blocks, and characterized by the subdivision of larger properties into standardized building lots for the construction of houses. On the bases of documentary evidences, several ecclesiastical institutions are identified as the agents of a distinctive type of development. While the institutions did the major role for developing lands, the construction of houses was done by small scale construction agents with moderate amount of properties. The major housing type of working-class neighborhoods of Firenze has been the 'casa a schiera' characterized by the form of narrow front and long depth. The type was generalized by the newly formed middle and working-class of Firenze which grew their body very rapidly, Even though the type assumed very uniform in its fen there were many variations. And through passing time, the casa a schiera developed to be multi-family housing, and the level of variation became deepen. Eventually, transformation of housing type of Firenze was ended by appearance of the 'casa in linea', which was very similar to modern apartment in its spatial organization.
The inflow of digital technology into the art, especially in the Fashion Illustration since 1990, makes the new aesthetics of the beginning of the 21 century which the Software aesthetics can be called. The meeting of technology and the art make us recall a great scientist and artist, Leonardo da Vinci in the Renaissance that the notion of the art and skill was unified, same as the ancient history. This study is purposed to expand the concept of the art for the broad exchange of the digital technology and art and for the extensive expression method of the modern fashion illustration. Having views on science theory of the beginning of the 20 century, Theory of Relativity which had given a lot of influence in the philosophy, the litterature and the art, as well as all the science, it makes a connection with the history of art in the beginning of the 20 century and the story of the digital art in the beginning of the 21 century. Firstly, the Fauvism and 2D is based on the expression of the glowing and bright color by the Principle of constancy of light velocity. Secondly, the Cubism and 3D is associated with the Special theory of relativity in the cyberspace which the space and the time are totally accorded. Thirdly, the Futurism and 4D is compared with the General theory of relativity which contains the material and the gravity. They are gradually evolved into the Interactive art and the Kinetic art by the digital technology in the profound cyberspace.
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