The purposes of this study were to research 1) the background of origination, 2) the process of development and 3) the influences to modern clothing culture of American sportswear. The most Influential sportswear designers in America from beginning period to present : such as Claire McCardell, Calvin Klein, Ralph Lauren and Donna Karan were selected to study their life and achievements in the world sportswear market. The Results were as follows : 1) World War I & II have caused the greatest changes to modern history America became the center of world economy, society and culture. Politically, they have influenced democracy world-wide and raised the social status of women. The free American women enjoyed sports, Jazz drinking and car-driving. The advanced technology have accelerated mechanization and mass-production to the fashion industrv. 2) The above historical backgrounds have caused to change women's clothing to casual, practical and simple form. Dorothy Shaver at Lord & Taylor began promoting American designers who created the original American spirit. Claire McCardell created the seperated American sportswear to become world-wide fashion. Calvin Klein and Ralph Lauren, the sportswear designers who have the unique American feeling have come to have riches and fames equal to the top designers in Paris. 3) The American sportswear and fashion industry influenced Paris Mode, the traditional Haute Couture to open Pret-a-porter-a-porter. The concept of seperated coordination in American sportswear have promoted the advanced marketing techniques and merchandising systems to modern ready-to-wear industry. Fashion in 1980s have increased the mutual interdepedence between the American sportswear industry and the creative Paris Mode. And then, the fashion world in 1990s and 21C will be changed and developed on the basis of American sportswear mechanism.
The purpose of this study was to analyse the body sizes of
The aim of this study is to provide fundamental data on the development of ready-to-wear clothes appropriate for the body types of elderly women. The study was conducted targeting 318 elderly women over 60 years of age whose fields of action were colleges for the elderly, sports centers, or business sites in Seoul and the neighboring districts. A total of 44 features in the upper body were used for the anthropometric measurement and analysis using anthropometry and photometry. The results of the study are as follows: 1. Somatotypes were classified into three types according to a cluster analysis using height and weight indices. Type 1 is the group with long and undersized upper body and straight body type since the face of the upper body is long relative to height and width, girth and depth are the smallest relative to weight, the breasts are somewhat fat, with a small extent of drooping and a straight back. Type 2 is the group that is considered fat relative to the body, has broad shoulders, drooping breasts with a wide space between them, and a back-bent upper body. Type 3 is the group that has a bent shape, the shortest upper body relative to height, and showing average obesity factors. 2. Indices of height and weight were used for factor analysis, cluster analysis, and discriminant analysis in order to classify upper body somatotype according to shape while excluding size factors of elderly women＇s upper body somatotype. The same method was used to compare and verify the result according to the absolute measurement and height index. Classification based on height and weight indices demonstrate that such somatotype classification minimizes the personal equation of body shape and it induces better classification based on shape as the results showed the highest cumulative sum of square(CUSUM) at 78.38% while six factors showed the smallest result and the hit rate for the classified three groups showed the highest result at 95.30%.
The purpose of this study is to investigate Modernism of Gabrielle Chanel in respect to her fashion business. Chanel always considered the work of a fashion designer 'a technique, a craft, a trade' and chastised couturiers who looked upon themselves as artists. She was the first to cater to the public in its broader sense and to produce standard which appealed to every taste, the first to democratize the art of dressmaking for purely economic reasons. The results were as follows; 1. Chanel personified ~his new spirit of independence and evolved a style of dress for the modern, liberated woman. 2. Chanel excelled at fabrics, their interpretation, and an ability to use them. She had taken a humble material, one that was used by men and that they had shunned, and turned it into a fashionable fabric. In the process she also accelerated the growth of the ready-to-wear industry for it was a fabric within the financial reach of the majority of woman who wanted to dress fashionably but were not well off. 3. Chanel thought black chic and would never go out of fashion. As American Vogue for 1 October 1926 prognosticated, her little black dress became a kind of uniform. 4. Chanel represented an exception among couturiers because she was flattered that her styles were so popular and widely copied. She believed that her style would be affirmed by high-street copies-after all, copying is the sincerest form of flattery. 5. Chanel changed the concept of costume jewellery. It was not an original idea of Chanel's. Whereas Poiret had pioneered the original idea of costume jewellery, it was Chanel's avant-garde way with it not to mention her usual deceptive simplicity and supreme artistry that made costume jewellery evolve a successful and lucrative part of the fashion industry.
This study is aimed at the application of the apparel size system to be applied for the Internet shopping mall in Korea. Especially this is focused on the presumption of the body measurement according to the age groups and the figure groups. In this regard, a sizing system is to be developed that could be used to approach consumers more easily and provide more fitness and accuracy in terms of size. The target study was on a group of women nineteen to forty-nine years of age. The 4th National Anthropometry Survey data were used in the examination. The results in the study are as follows ; (1) On the Internet apparel shopping malls in relation with this study, no matter what size in the ready-to-wear enterprises was selected by the consumers who once put their information in the member registration, the most appropriate sizes for them are automatically given and transferred to the order forms of chosen enterprises with aid of internal programs of the internet webpage. In addition, when consumers enter their body sizes in the units that are familiar to them, such as inches or centimeters, the units are automatically programed so that they can be converted for the sake of convenience. ; (2) To extract an estimation equation of body size through Multiple Regression Analysis, the circumferences of chest and hip could be presumed by stature, weight, and waist circumference of which most consumers were well aware. For more accurate regression equations, groupings were made in the three categories of age(19∼29/30∼39/40∼49) and in the three body types(Type N, A and H). Then, the regression equations were established for three sectors,