• 한국의류학회지
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• 제24권8호
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• pp.1125-1136
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• 2000

Fitness of clothes becomes a major concern in apparel industry. Development of basic patterns will enhance the fitness of clothes. But there are few slacks patterns for the middle-high school girls. So girls had difficulties to buy ready-made clothes of good fit. To solve this problem, it is necessary to develop basic slacks patterns. The purposes of this study was to develop basic slacks patterns based on the analysis of lower body types. 4 girls were selected among 402 anthropometric measurement subjects who are 13 to 15 year-old for the wearing tests. The result of this study can be summarized as follows; 1. Analysing the replicas of lower body surface by using gypsum method, slack patterns were developed. 2. Wearing test by the sensory evaluation showed that the developed slacks pattern was estimated more highly than existing patterns in the items of the comfort of front crotch and back crotch. 3. Wearing test by moire topography method represented that garment silhouette of developed slacks pattern was estimated more highly and garment space of waist, hip were significantly different among patterns.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제1권1호
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• pp.1-5
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• 1977

'Adolescence' is a critical period in the process of growing and aging but important in that an adolescent becomes aware of and begins to look about him or her self. Especially with girls in their late teens (15$\~$18), they pay more attention to their looks and clothes than the boys do, which affects to some extent the formation of their personality and their behavior. From this point .of view. it is significant to establish the standard size of high-school girls' clothes. This study aims to measure high-school girls in size and to establish the standard size of their clothes; furthermore. to enable them to lead a satisfactory living with more appropriate size of clothes. The results, analyzed by two different representing items which resulted in little difference, are as belows: 1) Stature had a significant correlation with posterior waist height; bust girth had the most significant correlation with weight. and also some considerable correlation with other representing items; 2) The F-test result showed significant difference on $1\%$ level over all the items between the measured (Y) and the estimated (Y); the correlation among the representing items was considerable also; 3) When the measurement increases in stature by 4cm, bust girth by 4cm. and posterior shoulder width by 2cm respectively, the increase or decrease in other items are as shown on Table 4. Since this study was carried out in girls' high-schools in Seoul, it is expected to extend its further study throughout the nation. thus contributing to comprehending the whole truth of people's body-size and promoting the fabrication and modelling of the original clothes for the nation by the strict standard size up to making ready-made clothes with no difficulty in setting the standard and model size.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제34권9호
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• pp.1479-1490
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• 2010

This study provides basic data for the development of jacket patterns which reflect designs corresponding to the body shape features and preferences of obese women in their 20s and 30s by understanding problems they may encounter in wearing a ready-made jacket by researching the reality of ready-made tailored jacket wearing and their design preferences. A survey was conducted by sampling 82 obese women (over $25kg/m^2$ BMI) between the ages of 20 to 39. The details of the survey consists of general information, interest rate and importance rate on clothes, reality of wearing and purchasing jackets, measurement fits per each part, and preferred designs. SPSS 14.0 was used to analyze the data. The results showed that 76.8% of obese women wore their jackets less than 5 times a month. Those in the 20s wore the jackets more frequently than those in the 30s. The reasons for not wearing jackets frequently included uncomfortableness in activities and unavailability of the correct size. A total of 55% of the total preferred the fitting to be relatively smaller than the body size or tightly fitting. Although in the past, there was a tendency to wear a loose fit to cover the body shape, currently even obese body shapes avoided the loose fit as the tight fit is the trend. In terms of the satisfaction rate for the measurements per each part of jackets, there was a low satisfaction rate for most of the items. For the circumference items such as waist length and chest size, people responded that they were too small and for the length of items such as the length of jacket and sleeve length, people responded that they were too long. This was because the readymade clothes brands increase the length of items and circumference items in uniform in the same intervals when producing large sizes. Both those in the 20s and the 30s preferred a tight fit. In terms of preferred fabric, a wool/spandex mix was most popular and then cotton/spandex. This shows that they prefer those fabrics which allow an excellent activity while maintaining the exterior well. In addition, they preferred black color with no patterns because they wanted their body size to look reduced and did not want to receive any attention.

• The International Journal of Costume Culture
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• 제4권1호
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• pp.25-33
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• 2001

This study is to analyze Korean-Chinese women's Costume in Yabian with factors such as reform opening-up, economic growth, change of social values, development of technology, more education opportunities and influence of mass media. It divides the 1990's into two halves. Photos, interview, observation and relevant literature were used for this study. Even though economy grew rapidly, they needed to purchase daily goods other than clothes. In a way that they preferred practicality, it showed somewhat it was still developing. The trend in the first half of the 1990's was characterized : first, Synthetic or artificial fibers and ready-made suits were popular ; second, there still remained the men's style ; third, they wore Tanrikoo(彈力袴), Tisingkoo(體型袴), Jiaotakoo(脚袴) because of its properties of activeness and comfort ; fourth, shoulders looked ore prominent with pads as they were used in Chungsanfoo(中山服) ; fifth, clothes in grey and dark blue was in fashion ; sixth, they wore hand-made knit vests and sweaters and often mountain-climbing gears for its light and warm quality ; seventh, along with opening-up, various materials and colorful clothes were in style, which satisfied women's desire for beauty. They decorated Hanbok(韓服), using sleeves with colors, golden ornaments, flower patterns embroidery, materials of different color in collar and tie and dyes of sleeves and skirts. In the first half of the 1990's when the opening-up was beginning, there were diverse styles and colors in fashion, yet not close to good quality. As the economy grew, the second half of the 1990's was characterized by good palate, individuality, favouritism on foreign goods, rapid change of fashion. For instance, fur coat and woolen fabric were favored. Economic growth led to abundance of cloth, dyes and decorative materials. In addition, people possessed more clothing and it was possible for them to wear both Hanbok and wedding dress in wedding ceremony. People placed their standards on competency and financial ability rather than ideology. Worship disappeared and individuality arose. Therefore, apparel functioned not only as protection but as suits with aesthetic purpose. This resulted in introduction of bold style, imitation of western countries and extension of use of Hanbok. With the help of mass media, transportation, telecommunication, contact with Korean company and civilians, Korean and western cultures, through Korea, were accepted. Change in structure of economic status caused excessive spending and more educational opportunities that enabled people to accept foreign culture quickly. Values moved onto new, beautiful and better characteristics. it was possible to have suits ready-made due to improvement of mass production and cotten, wool, linen, silk became popular owing to technology. New technology, the bases of mass consumption, increased possession of clothing and accelerated change of fashion. In summary, women's Costume in Yanbian were affected by the factors in economy, politics, culture contact as well as change of society and technology.

• 복식
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• 제29권
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• pp.143-158
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• 1996

It was the year of 1903 when avantgarde artists in Vienna gave a birth to the Wiener Werkstaette under the influence of Aesthetic Movement and Guild of Handicraft from England. This study is on the backgrounds of the birth of the Wiener Werkstaette its artis-tic motto and world-wide echo it provoked. This thesis goes back to the time when the decadent Wiener Secession shaped up refiewing the Reform Movement It also covers characteristics works of major members of the Wiener Werkstaette which were produced on the basis of the concept of Gesmtkunstwerk, The conclusion of this study is that : 1. Without losing its own specifc features various fields of formative arts were combinded together coherently and succeeded to realize the idealistic art that is the com-posite are 2. The Wiener Werkstaette was strongly opposed to the ready-made clothes which be-came popular as the society was Industrialized and commercialized. unlike those ready-to-wear clathes those members of the Wiener Werkstaette preferred to make each clothes with different mateirals and printed their own unique pattern designs. 3.As a results of close relationships between the Wiener Werkstaette and paul poiret 'Stu-dio Martine' was established in paris and new pattern deslhns were introduced by Raoul Dufy. 4. After the break-out of World War One cultural exchanges with other foreign countries were vuirtually cut off and the Wiener Werkstaette was disconnected from the influence of Parisl That was the motive for Wiener Werkstaette to start building up its unique artistic style with peculiar materials techniques and methods of productionl Those brisk and creative activities of the Wiener Werkstaette brought forth "the Golden perlod of 1920s" 5. Its historic design and ornamental pattern were assessed as a prelude to the Post-mod-ernism Since the late 1970s with the redis-covery of the culture of vienna in 1900s. the Art to wear which was created by the 'Wiener Werkstaette' but unfortunately tucked away by the Greate Depression and nationalism has been revaluated and studied. In Korea it was since 1985 when 'the art to wear' began to gain attention widely. It is urged that the theory of the 'Gesamtkunstwerk' should be also ac-cepted and shared earnestly.

• 패션비즈니스
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• 제8권5호
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• pp.85-99
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• 2004

The purpose of the study is to survey the current state of tween generation boys' clothing-wearing, to identify problems in the current apparel sizing system, and to contribute to the improvement of the fitness of ready-made clothes. 1. According to the result of surveying the current state of clothing-wearing, boys prefer casual wear and, as they grow old, they tend to purchase clothes alone or in company with their friends. In addition, they use mainly easy casual wear or sports wear stores. They appear to be highly dissatisfied with price and size and think that the fitting of coats, pants and jackets is poor. Moreover, they complain about sizes such as waist circumference, pants length and upper-arm circumference. 2. According to the result of comparing apparel sizing system with body measurements, the waist circumference and hip circumference of young casual wear are fit to the large size of body at the age of 12 and the over-average size of body at the age of 13 and 14, but its bust circumference is fit only to the extra-large size of body at the age of 13 and 14. Such results come from differences in body shape between adults and adolescents. Although adolescents' body size has been enlarged, their body line is still immature and, accordingly, their drop-value is smaller than that of adults, which appears to cause adolescents to be highly dissatisfied with fitting.

• 대한가정학회지
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• 제39권8호
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• pp.137-154
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• 2001

This study was made to draft the tight fitting bodice pattern which horizontal and perpendicular stands are to be lightly set, with the consideration of characteristics of body shape in design of clothes. Measurement of body was conducted on 53 women in twenties, and observation was made on surface development pattern by adhesive tape addition method and gypsum method on three standard objects. In the study, bodice pattern was completed by using already made Somato- measurer, compared with existing bodice pattern, and the results are as follows. The result of the correlation analysis by body measurement shows that chest circumference has a relation to B$.$P-front neck point, side neck point, shoulder point, front interscye breadth point, and the item in spine scapulae point has relation to the item of back neck line, and front & back horizontal values. The degree of shoulder slant, width of armhole and of its depth, the amount of breast, back space, back length were shown to be directly measured from the body. In surface development pattern, tight-fit bodice pattern necessary to the breast volume and back space were shown to be investigated and these volume have to be given in setting up basic line for clothes design together with body measurement value. The result of sensory evaluation for appearance test on fitness shows higher value of research bodice including line of shoulder line, front and back interscye breadth, chest circumference, waist circumference, armhole circumference and of its depth, compared with the research bodice in most items. The result of this study is seen showing high effectiveness for the basic data to design the ready-made dress of high sensitivity of high value added tat.

• 대한가정학회지
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• 제40권11호
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• pp.1-9
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• 2002

Nowadays, the use of apparel CAD system is important to the mass production of ready to wear Especially, computer-based grading is the most important process to improve the fitness of clothes and to reduce the time needed to make patterns of several sizes. The purpose of this study was to suggest a standard sizing system for junior-high school girls' lower clothes and to suggest a grading method according to the sizing systems. The subjects were 402 junior-high school girls of 13 to 15 year's-old. The size intervals of waist girth and hip girth were 3㎝ and 4㎝ respectively. The sizing system, which had frequencies more than 4.5%, was classified 8 cases. For regular grading, two types of group were classified into 58-82/61-86/64-90/67-94 and 61-82/64-86/67-90/70-94. Among them, 61-86 and 64-86 size were adopted the basic size for the development of grading. According to the sizing system, hand-made patterns were manufactured. By measure of the each part of the slacks, new grading rule patterns were developed by each size. A new grading rule was different from the Moonwha grading rule. This result will contribute to clothing fitness of consumer and the amount of production.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제9권5호
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• pp.770-782
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• 2001

The definite objects of this study are as follows; 1. The study presents the methods of the designing collar pattern and bodice pattern by each concrete object after comparing and analyzing the factors among the features which are in need of clothes designing. 2. The object of this study is to make body-suitable ready-made clothes by comparing and analyzing the methods of designing collar pattern and bodices pattern presented by each concrete objects and Bunka Pattern. The results of this study are as follows; 1 . The results of this study developed the body-suitable bodice pattern of bend-forward type, straight type and lean-back type Compared with the Bunka pattern by physical function test, this study was rated high in the aspects of the shape of neck and shoulder. 2. The collar pattern was designed according to each type. The front center rising point of straight type is 2.5cm, lean-back type is 3.0cm and bend-forward type is 1.5cm. Compared with the Bunka pattern by physical function test, this study is rated high in the aspects of the shape. To confirm the increase and change of the measure definitely, the complete examination of each subject is necessary. This developed and investigated pattern must be supplemented more by comparing and analyzing with other pattern and body types.

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제22권1호
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• pp.94-101
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• 2020

This helps plus-size consumers purchase ready-made clothes and improves fitness by analyzing the upper body shapes of abdomen-obese adult males; in addition, it creates a size system based on each size interval of obesity shapes. The criteria for the 572 male subjects surveyed were over 25 kg/㎡ of the BMI, over 90 cm of waist, and over 0.85 waist hip ratio. The results were as follows. First, the higher the age group, the higher the degree of abdominal obesity in each age group. The degree of obesity decreases age increase; however, was the risk of abdominal obesity increased. Second, Compared to standard body types, the average body size of Abdomen-obese males is significantly larger, especially in the waist area than in the chest area. Third, to propose a size system for abdominal obese adult males, 16 sections with a final 2% rate of appearance were finally adopted as suit-tops size system for abdominal obese adult males by applying a 3 cm dimension gap between each designation as specified in the KS standard. The coverage ratio for the 16 sections was 72.6% and the coverage effienciency was 4.5%. The results of this study can be used in a various clothes; in addition, the activation and segmentation of the plus-size market are also believed to be significant.