• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
• /
• v.7 no.2
• /
• pp.211-219
• /
• 1999

The purpose of this study was to trace and identify termilogies recorded im kei lim yu sa. ma(麻), kyun(絹), po(布), je(苧), and je-po(苧布) were included in this study. For the analysis of this research comparative analytical methods was employed. Some significant findings and results of this study can be summarized as follows : 1. Text : hemp is called san(麻曰三). The word san of Koryo was derived from Indian sann, san, sana, sunn, 2. Text : Kyun is called jyi or kib(絹曰及). The word jyi(及) of Koryo was from jyi or kib() of Silla. 3. Text : Hemp cloth is called bey(bei), pey(pei), bai(布曰背). Be (베) has two meanings of hemp cloth and cloth in Korean. In the text it is interpreted as hemp cloth. 4. Text : Ramie or China grass is called mar, maw, mao, mu (毛). (苧曰毛). It is considered that the word mau(mo in Korean) (毛) in text is correct and word mau(毛) meaning China grass of Koryho is derived from mah or mak that is an old Egyptian name for flax or linen. The word mau(mo) (毛) of Koryo seems to be a transliteration of mah(or mak) in Korean or a variety of it. 5. Raime cloth or China grass cloth is clalled mau shy (苧布曰毛施). Silmar words to mau shy(毛施) of Koryo were found in Chinese, Manchurian and japanese as well as in Ancient Hebrew.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
• /
• v.52 no.6
• /
• pp.41-50
• /
• 2002

The purpose of this study is to classify korean clothing image using brainstorming method. Brainstorming theme is selected 'The Land of Morning Calm 'which famed to foreigner about Korea. Brainstorming members were 10 persons for 1st. 9 persons for End. The 119 words of association from 'morning calm'were to extracted at 1st brainstorming. The group of senses image were to classified at End brainstorming. The results of this study were as follows : 1. The clothing image type of tactual sense implied feeling of that downy bedding in a soft spring and grandmother's hands as warm. rough. 2. The clothing image type of smelling sense associated smells of pleasant. mild. and fresh. 3. The clothing image type of auditive sense consisted mainly sense of indirect. resonance. small, and clear sounds. 4. The clothing image type of visual sense associated pure, passive, gentle, and lasting life-force as weeds and wild flowers. Korean line is pointless and rounded curve. Korean form is soft silhouette as streamy, not exaggerate and wavy detail of slim and short. Korean color is not dyed, just natural color and pastel tone. Korean textile is a natural material as linen, ramie. and coarse silk.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
• /
• v.64 no.1
• /
• pp.45-63
• /
• 2014

In the Taenghwa(Buddhist paintings), the clothing habits of the times can be observed since it depicts the lives of people from all walks of life. These 16th century Taenghwas were drawn based on the understanding of the ritual costumes of early Joseon dynasty appearing in works such as oryeui Se-jong-sil-lok; Sejong chronicles and Gyong-guk-Dae-jon. It shows the perception of various types of clothing such as the Myeon-Bok(King's Full Dress), Won-yu-gwan-bok(King's Ceremonial Dress), and Gon-ryong-po(royal robe at work), and describes the early King's Won-yu-gwan-bok in the early Joseon dynasty that equips Bang-sim-gok-ryong(Round Neck Band). Various officials' uniforms and various men's coats are described. From it, one can visually verify the records of Joong-jong-sil-lok; Joongjong chronicles that describes the appearances of various hats and coats. They also tell us that Chang-ot(light outer coat) was worn prior to the 17th century. It also shows us that the ritual costume of women in Koryo was passed down to early Joseon. Also, in regards to the Buddhist priest costumes, the jang-sam's gray color and ga-sa's red color has been passed down until today. The most representative characteristic for clothing materials were horsehair, silk, ramie, hemp, and cotton.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
• /
• v.31
• /
• pp.101-118
• /
• 1997

This research was carried out to sublimate our design with common sence so that the de-sign concept with our traditional chara-teristics can be acceptable in the world design area through re-creation works of tradition to be adoptable to modern concept. Form this survey the following could be derived. 1. in Korea designers should concern about the ration of skirt to jacket plait of Chima and string Koreum of hanbok. however they should pay more attention to string and color stripes to attract foreign customers in international market. It was found that koreans prefer the elegant and cur-vaceous design while foreigners demend edecor-ative design of Hanbok in addition to its el-egance and curvaeouseness. 2. It was also found that korean ramie fabric might be the most popular material for hanbok in Korea however silk and fine gauze might have to be used in international market. Generally it would be better to use the materials with natural and delicate feelings in Korea while the materials with gorgeous feel-ing in addition to natural and delicate feeling should be used in international market. 3, For the figures on Hanbok the embroidery figures and pictorial figures would be appropri-ate in Korea while it is necessary to develop the design with embroidery figures and gold foiled figures to satisfy the foreign customers. Accordignly it 8is required to develop the designers with figures with more elegant and gorgeous sence in both Korea and the world area.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
• /
• v.61 no.2
• /
• pp.88-101
• /
• 2011

This study emphasizes on the characteristics of the excavated fabrics from the tomb of Kimwhoak in the late 16th and early 17th centuries. All of 118 kinds of fabrics are used in excavated costume from the tomb of Kimwhoak. Classified by its materials, it is divided into small groups as follows: 63 pieces of spun silk tabby(53.6%), 14 of spun yarn silk(11.9%), 13 of thin filament silk tabby(11.0%), 8 of thin silk tabby(6.8%), 4 of satin without pattern(3.4%), 3 of filament silk tabby(2.5%), 3 of twill without pattern(2.5%), 2 of satin damask(1.7%), 2 of mixture fabric with silk and cotton(1.7%), and 2 of ramie fabric(1.7%), 1 of simple gauze without pattern(0.8%), 1 of damask with supplementary gold thread(0.8), 1 of cotton(0.8%), 1 of etc(0.8%). Classified by ways of weaving: 106 pieces of plain weave(89%), 6 of satin weave(5%), 3 of twill weave (3%), 1 of gauze weave(1%), 1 of compound weave(1%) and etc(1%). In point of patterns, the most of textiles are without pattern, there are only two of them are patterned textile. such as lotus patterns with vine, peony patterns with vine. Their patterns are very similar to those of other tombs in the same age.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
• /
• v.64 no.5
• /
• pp.141-153
• /
• 2014

Buddhist articles from various periods in the Vairochana Buddha statues, which are currently housed in the Haeinsa Temple's Supreme Buddha Hall and Beopbojeon Hall. This research concentrates on the artifacts found inside the storage boxes, which was placed inside the Buddha statues in 1490. A total of 24 pieces of fabric articles found inside the Virochana Buddha in Beopbojeon and 213 pieces from the Supreme Buddha Hall were examined. The types of textiles are as follows: bast fiber, silk, cotton, and union cloth. Bast fiber consisted of ramie and hemp. For silk, tabby woven with plain weave, spun silk, and thin tabby were found. And twill damask made with twill, Sa and Ra with the leno weave, and satin damask made with the satin weave were also found. Also the two Jeogoris and three Jogakbos were found, the one Jeogori was made with Hwan. The Buddhist articles in the Vairochana Buddha of Haeinsa have been preserved well and its colors have remained virtually the same from the time of its original placement. Therefore these articles are very important in understanding the textile characteristics, weaving techniques, dying techniques as well as traditional colors.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
• /
• v.53 no.5
• /
• pp.23-31
• /
• 2003

The Purpose of this study was to isolate and identify fungi found in excavated clothes dating on the 16th century. As a result of microscoping with LPCB staining, seven isolated strains were classified-Acremonium strictum, Acremonium kiliense, Fonsecaea sp., Candida sp., Trichoderma sp., Cladosporium spp., Penicillium spp.. In the process of isolation and identification of fungi by the sort of textile, more fungi were found in cotton, cotton batt and silk than in ramie and hemp, suggesting that hemp has antibacterial characteristics due to the presence of lignin. In the Comparison washed samples with unwashed ones, there were more kinds of fungi in washed samples. In the cellulase activity test, Acremonium kiliense had the highest level cellulase activity, suggesting that Acremonium killiense has an important Influence on damage of textiles.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
• /
• v.20
• /
• pp.93-104
• /
• 1993

The purpose of this study is to clarify the adap-tation of traditional beauty of dress in Baek Eui for the establishment of tradition of dress culture. Especially, the color of the traditional dress rep-resent a symbol which is connedted with the na-tional character and the evvironment. But it is hard to examine closely because color preference are transformend with the times. This study is framed within the limits of the next themes : the origin, history and meaning of the Baek Eui ; the philosophical theory of cosmic Five Elements and the Prohibition of Baek Eui ; the beauty of Baek Eui. As the national character is indicative of the conservativeness and the purity, Koreans have kept up wearing Baek Eui spite of the occasional prohibition. Since the color of the dress represen-tatived the signs of the social class and the power, over the eighty persent of the common people put on the Beak Eui : ramie and flax fabrics that has it's own color in Chosun-Dynasty. I think that the use of natural color harmony is prominent and the beauty of Baek Eui is the naturality and the non-artificiality. The meaning of the symbol on the Korean Beak Eui is the divinity, the holiness, the purity, the cleanliness, the modesty, the frugality, the integ-rity, the constancy, the elegance, the simplicity.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
• /
• v.62 no.7
• /
• pp.54-66
• /
• 2012

This research analyzes the late Joseon's variously developed characteristics of women's underwear and its formative elements, and ultimately aims to apply such characteristics to designing modern outfits. The main purpose of the presented work is to give guidelines on utilizing the fashion legacy in a various way, and inheriting the traditional concept of beauty by developing it into modern fashion designs. The designing and producing of the work is based on the analysis of previous researches, genre paintings, and traditional costumes in museums. Based on this research, the application of traditional underwear design to today's outfits involves the following points. First, the presented work features the formative outlines of traditional underwear as an inspiration for outer garments. Secondly, various traditional textiles are used such as ramie fabrics, damask silk, silk fabrics, fur, etc. for four seasons and they are turned to practical use for modern outfits. Third, colors of choice are white and low saturation colors to create an elegant and serene atmosphere. Finally, traditional sewing techniques are specifically applied to modern fashion designs. Included are: Nubim technique, Gob-sol technique, and the patching method. This work pursues the design of practical use by tying up clothes with straps and knots to prevent them from falling off.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
• /
• v.7 no.1
• /
• pp.70-74
• /
• 2005

This study was aimed to isolation and identification of attached bacteria on the clothes excavated from Deajeon area dating on the 16th century. From the observation with colony shape, 17 bacterial strains were isolated, and then 7 bacterial strains were identified with morphological and biochemical characteristics. Streptococcus sp., Alcaligenes faecalis, Gemella sp., Acinetobacter sp., Pseudomonas vesicularis, Aeromonas sain. salmonicida, Moraxella spp. In observation of the bacterial strains by the sort of textile, more bacterial strains were found in silk, cotton, and cotton batt than in ramie and hemp. It is suggest that hemp has antibacterial characteristics due to the presence of lignin. In the comparison washed samples with unwashed ones, there were more kinds of bacterial strains in washed samples. In the cellulase activity tests, all isolated bacteria had low level cellulase activity.