• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.52 no.3
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• pp.123-137
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• 2002

The purpose of this study is to analyze the actual condition and problems of current ready-made shrouds. Current shrouds were formed after the 20th century and therefore are quite apart from its traditional precedents of Chosun Dynasty. In this respect, several problems can be pointed out. 1. The use of natural colored hemp as a primary textile of current shrouds is far from our tradition. Silk, ramie, and cotton have to be used together with hemp. Also, more variety of colors can be used other than natural white. 2. The size of ready-made shrouds has to be categorized at least into three: large, medium and small 3. The pattern and sowing method of Dopo(도포) and Wonsam(원삼) should be corrected in line with those of the traditional Dopo(도포) and Wonsam(원삼). 4. The design and items of current ready-made shrouds have to break away from the standardized convention and should seek more of a variety that our rich tradition provide. 5. The rational index should be suggested so that consumers can compared the quality and price of ready-made shrouds available at their hands.

• Journal of the Korean Wood Science and Technology
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• v.24 no.3
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• pp.72-79
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• 1996

Cellulose I에서 Cellulose II로의 결정변태기구를 X선 및 전자선 회절법과 현미경적 방법을 이용하여 구명하였다. X선 회절 결과, Na-cellulose I을 고온에서 수세할 경우 Cellulose I과 Cellulose II의 혼합형 회절도가, 저온에서 수세할 경우 Na-cellulose IV의 회절도가 얻어졌다. 전자선회절 결과, 고온수세의 시료는 Cellulose I과 Cellulose II의 혼합형이 저온수세의 시료는 Cellulose II의 회절도가 얻어졌다. 또한 고온수세 시료의 전자선회절도로부터 섬유벽의 내측부가 외측부보다 재생 Cellulose I의 양이 많은 것이 확인되었다. 따라서 알칼리 팽윤시 섬유벽내에는 불완전한 팽윤이 발생하는데 그 정도는 내측부가 더욱 심한 것으로 생각된다. 이때 형성되는 불완전한 Na-cellulose I 은 고온 수세의 경우는 탈수에 의해 Cellulose I로, 저온수세의 경우는 수화에 의해 Cellulose II로 변태되지만 완전히 팽윤된 Na-cellulose I은 Cellulose I로 재생될 수 없는 것으로 생각된다. 현미경적 실험결과, mercerization과정에서 cellulose 분자쇄의 packing이나 conformation의 변화와 관련하여 microfibril 의 흐트러짐은 발생하지 않는 것으로 생각되었다.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.23 no.8
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• pp.1161-1169
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• 1999

This research was aimed to identify the artifact type and their characteristics of the textile related materials excavated from Koryo Dynasty tombs of Hyungok-ni Danyang. Microscopy solubility test energy dispersive X-ray spectroscopy(EDS) and fourier transform infrared spectroscopy (FT-IR) fabric density test were used for the identification and when necessary standard samples were made in order to compare its characteristics with hose of the original artifact, the result indicated that the artifacts included both textile and paper. Artifacts from Burial 14 were comprised of textile fragments FT-IR and the solubility test conducted on the artifact indicated that the textiles were made with ramie woven with plain weave technique in a fairly loose fabric density. Rest of the artifacts were all comprised of paper.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.5
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• pp.219-235
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• 1981

Jik-Ryoung was originally desinged to be worn by lower-class people in the reign of King Woo(A.D 1387, Goryeo) when official dresses and headgear were redsigned according to Ming's (明) style. It was observed that Jik-Ryoung was the same Po(袍) as Dan-Ryoung(團領) except its straight collar. Nowadays we can find through documents and original forms of Jik-Ryoung itself that Jik-Ryoung prevailed from the beginning to the end of the Yi Dynasty. Lower class people wore this coat until King Sejo(世祖), but from that time the Jik-Ryoung could be worn only by the Noble class as street clothes and home wear as well. Middle class people wore this coat as an office wear. Its style had changed from narrow sleeves and Moo (무, a reinforcing cloth strip) at the beginning to widers and Moo after the middle years of the Dynasty and finally fixed its style to sewing upper parts of Moo together. While red, white, and blue were the common colors, silk, hemp, cotton, and ramie were preferred materials to be made of.

• Proceedings of the Korean Society of Dyers and Finishers Conference
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• 2010.03a
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• pp.129-130
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• 2010

• Natural Product Sciences
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• v.22 no.2
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• pp.134-139
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• 2016

Phytochemicals were isolated from leaves of the fiber crop, ramie (Boehmeria nivea, Bn), using open column chromatography and medium pressure liquid chromatography. Their structures were identified as ${\beta}$-sitosterol, (-)-loliolide, rutin, and pyrimidinedione by MS, $^1H$-, and $^{13}C$-NMR spectroscopic analysis. Among them, (-)-loliolide was isolated for the first time from B. nivea. A content analysis of (-)-loliolide in B. nivea collected from different regions and harvest times was conducted by HPLC. The highest content of (-)-loliolide was found in Bn-23 harvested in September. These results will be helpful to use the plant which harvest in September as a high content phytochemical additive in food, health supplements, and medicinal products.

• Journal of Conservation Science
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• v.20
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• pp.9-22
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• 2007

Three kinds of natural pesticides extracted from plants which are being sold in the Korean markets, were estimated effects on materials of art of museum. Tested samples were 1) silk fabrics : undyed, dyed(amur cork tree, gallut, gallut(alum post mordancy), gallut(copperas post mordancy), gardenia, turmeric, acorn, acorn(copperas post mordancy), gromwell, madder, madder(alum post mordancy), safflower, sappanwood, sappanwood(alum pre mordancy, post mordancy), indigo, indigo+amur cork tree, indigo+sappanwood) 2) cotton fabrics : undyed, dyed(amur cork tree, gallut, gallut(alum post mordancy), gardenia, acorn, acorn(copperas post mordancy), gromwell, madder, madder(alum post mordancy), safflower, sappanwood, sappanwood(alum pre mordancy, post mordancy), indigo, indigo+sappanwood) 3) undyed ramie fabric 4) Korean papers : undyed, dyed(sappanwood, indigo, gardenia, amur cork tree, safflower) 5) pigments : azurite, malachite, red lead, litharge, orpiment, hematite, iron oxide, cinnabar, vermilion, indigo, lake indigo, kaolin, lead white, oyster shell white 6) painted plates : azurite, malachite, red lead, litharge, orpiment, hematite, iron oxide, cinnabar, vermilion, indigo, lake indigo, kaolin, lead white, oyster shell white. Conditions of tests were that after samples were exposed to 10 times of promoted concentration for 9 months in relative humidity $55{\pm}1%$ and temperature $20{\pm}2^{\circ}C$, they were compared with standards. Items of estimation were color difference(${\Delta}E^*$) and tenacity. After exposure to pesticides, undyed silk cotton ramie fabrics and Korean papers were not nearly changed in their colors, but colors of most of dyed samples were clearly changed by pesticides except for partial samples(acorn- and madder-dyed fabrics etc, gardenia-dyed samples). Especially changes of colors of turmeric-dyed silk fabrics were most distinct. And colors of pigments and painted plates containing lead, copper, arsenic, mercury and vegetable pigments, were clearly changed. Tenacities of yams of undyed silk fabrics were not nearly changed and undyed cotton fabrics were a little reduced as compared with standards. But tenacities of yams of dyed silk and cotton fabrics were clearly reduced or increased as compared with standards. Especially, madder-dyed silk fabrics were increased 10% or more and indigo-dyed silk fabrics were reduced 10% or less in all pesticides. Also madder- and sappanwood(alum post mordancy)-dyed cotton fabrics were increased 10% or more in all pesticides.

• Journal of Conservation Science
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• v.25 no.2
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• pp.219-231
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• 2009

The purpose of this study is to provide basic information necessary for the cleaning of excavated costumes. For the purpose, these researchers reviewed previous records of the actual cleaning of excavated costumes and then implemented and documented the processes of cleaning the Yeosan Song's costumes excavated at Mokdal-dong, Daejeon, which could date back to the early and mid periods of Choseon Dynasty. The excavated clothes of the family provide good examples for comparing men's costume of the 15th century with men's and women's of the mid and late 16th century. The total quantity of excavated remains were 184 and textiles were cotton, silk, hemp, ramie, and union cloth. The clothing remains were processed through wet or dry cleaning in accordance with their fabric condition and the extent to which they were worn or polluted. In detail, the excavated costumes of the Yeosan Song family were cleaned in two stages. For wet cleaning, both anionic(LAS) and nonionic(Triton X-100) surfactants were respectively used as cleaning agents and for dry cleaning, a mixture of n-hexane and n-decane(the ratio of 4 to 6) and petrolic dry cleaning solvent were used. After first cleaning, some cotton, ramie and hemp which had still the stains were processed bleaching and silk which were good condition was processed dry cleaning with the organic solvent again.

• Journal of Conservation Science
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• v.29 no.3
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• pp.197-207
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• 2013

The gas acceleration test was conducted to identify the deterioration of Korean traditional textiles caused by $NO_2$. Total 20 specimens were prepared using 4 different materials (silk, cotton, ramie, hemp) after dyeing with 5 colors (undyed, red, yellow, blue, black). The specimens were exposed to 0.01, 0.1, 1, 10, 100, and 1000 ppm $NO_2$ gas in the test chamber at $20^{\circ}C$, 50% RH for 1 day. Optical, chemical, and physical evaluation was carried out after the exposure. In the case of Korean traditional textile, color difference increased at 1 ppm/day, $NO_3{^-}$ concentration, carbonyl and C-$NO_2$ functional group increased while pH decreased at 10 ppm/day and tensile strength weakened at 100 ppm/day. when it comes to undyed textile, alteration of color difference on silk and hemp cloth, $NO_3{^-}$ concentration and tensile strength on hemp cloth was remarkable. In addition, color difference on blue and yellow textile, $NO_3{^-}$ concentration increase of yellow textile and tensile strength decrease of hemp cloth & ramie cloth were significant. The results suggest that critical $NO_2$ concentration of optical, chemical, and physical damage on Korean traditional textiles are 1ppm/day, 10 ppm/day, 100 ppm/day respectively.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.6 no.2
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• pp.127-140
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• 1998

A study on the construction of Dan-Ryung in the early 16th century based on the shrouds from excavated tomb of Kim, Heum-Jo(1461-1528) is reported in this paper. This study is aimed at establishing database for a traditional Korean costume construction and emphasizing the necessity for development of methodology in writing report from excavated costume including measuring, construction methods and materials. This paper includes examples of measured length for each part of 'Dan-Ryung', reconstructured drawings, pictures, and construction methods. The followings on the construction of Dan-Ryung in the early 16th century are found in this study: 1) Dan-Ryung robes were made of less expensive hemp, cotton, silk & cotton, and ramie & silk. 2) As a whole, Dan-Ryung was lengthy and spacious and it had straighter and narrower sleeves when compared to the ones from the late Chosun. 3) There existed Moo which was large rectangular guest with double pleats at Dan-Ryung's side seam. Its round collar was constructed with a 3 cm width bias. Ball buttons on the outer collar and loops on the right shoulder are attached. 4) There existed a pair of indirectly attached slim and short strings. Inside string is directly attached. 5) Inside of the shoulder, a U-shaped shoulder pad made of the same cloth as the inner cloth was attached. hand sewing methods used include delicate flat-felled seam stitch, back-stitch and sew-up stitch.