• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.53 no.8
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• pp.1-10
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• 2003

The purpose of this study was to verify fitness of a new raglan sleeve pattern according to the result of appearance and function evaluation. Also, it was to search the relation between the construction factor and the function on the selected 3 types of the existent raglan sleeve patterns and the new sleeve pattern. Three female university students having different shoulder shapes were selected as subjects, wore 4 different types of the raglan steeve was evaluated by professional panel. The functions of the evaluated sleeve patterns evaluated was made by the wearer themselves. According to the comparison of the new raglan sleeve pattern with the existent raglan sleeve pattern, the new raglan sleeve pattern acquired the higher evaluation scores both on the appearance test and the function evaluation. It was known that the appearance and function of the raglan sleeve pattern were effected by construction factors of the sleeve pattern.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.26 no.11
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• pp.1502-1513
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• 2002

The purpose of this study was to find relations between construction factors and adaptability on the 5 available raglan sleeve patterns through the drafting method. Also it was to suggest a functional sleeve pattern according to appearance and adaptability test. Three women in her twenties who have standard figure was selected as subjects. Raglan sleeves of 5 experimental clothes were rated by the appearance test and adaptability test. The major conclusions of this study are as follows. 1. The construction factors of the raglan sleeve are sleeve slant, sleeve cap height, biceps line, breast width. Bicep lines increased and sleeve cap height decreased as the sleeve slant decreased. The higher adaptability scores of raglan sleeves were, the lower sleeve slants were. 2. According to the appearance evaluation, B type was recorded the highest score 3. According to the adaptability scores, A type was recorded the highest score. In the pulled length of the waist-line, A type was the lowest movements among the pattern type. In the pulled length of the sleeve-line, A type was the lowest movements among the pattern types. Therefore A type was evaluated by the bort functional sleeve pattern type. Through the experiments, it was known that appearance and adaptability of the raglan sleeve patterns were effected by construction factor.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.20 no.4
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• pp.95-104
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• 2018

This study classified the figurative features of the raglan sleeves presented in the Spring and Summer Collections and Fall and Winter Collections abroad in 2010 and 2018 and analyzed the production methods and patterns of the classified raglan sleeves. The analysis results are described below. The raglan sleeves in the latest fashion trends were classified into Type H, Type A, Type O and Type Y per shape. The production features of raglan sleeves in the latest fashion trends included the cutting lines in various shapes, a flounce that made shoulders look wider, and decorations such as gathers, studs, punching, slits, pleats and tucks. The raglan sleeve design was classified into Yoke Raglan, Armhole Princess Raglan, Semi Raglan, Gathered Raglan, Pleats Raglan, Cowl Raglan, Origami Raglan, Circular Curved Raglan, Capes Raglan and Constructive Design Raglan and the patterns per design were presented. For creative and experimental clothing by the analysis of the features of raglan sleeve structure, a variety of configuration methods need to be developed and implemented. The analysis results of this study will contribute to the development of the fashion industry through small quantity batch production pursuing unique styles as the basis for further study on the configuration methods of raglan sleeves. This study will be used in various ways as education materials on sleeve patterns in the educational field. Through the analysis of sleeve patterns, this study tries to provide basic data for planning the design of raglan sleeves and helping to diversify the ladies' apparel market in the future.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.23 no.1
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• pp.117-125
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• 2015

The purpose of this study is to evaluate the differences of body compensation image on variations in the shoulder height and width of power shoulder raglan sleeve jacket. Nine samples were examined: 3 variations of the shoulder height and 3 variations of the shoulder width. The data was evaluated by 123 fashion design majors. The results were as follows; as a result of analyzing the body compensation image according to changes in the shoulder height and width of power shoulder raglan sleeve jacket, five factors were selected; the shoulder compensation factor, the bust compensation factor, the waist compensation factor, the arm compensation factor and the neck compensation factor. Among these factors, the shoulder compensation factor is the most important factor. Examining the major effect of the body compensation image based on changes in the shoulder height and width of power shoulder raglan sleeve jacket, it had an independent influence on factors about waist, neck, shoulder and arm compensation except a factor about bust compensation, had an influence on interacting effect of factors about shoulder, bust, waist, arm compensation, and it had no influence on interacting effect of a factor about neck compensation. This shows that the shoulder height has larger effect on neck compensation image than the shoulder width in power shoulder raglan sleeve jacket.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.12
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• pp.68-86
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• 1988

This paper is described about applied method of personal computer for clothes-patterns. The personal Computer (Fijitsu FM-$16{\beta}$) and X-Y Plotter (GRAPHTEC GP-9101 R) were used in this study. It is studied to draft of sleeve designs automartically in this paper. The Basic Language is used and the programs were main program and subroutine programs. The results are as follows; 1) The Y's system of sleeve sloper is selected in this study. 2) The co-ordinate points were indicated relative location of all necessary in drafting of sleeve designs. 3) In the variations of sleeve sloper, Puff sleeve and Raglan sleeve were selected. Programs for drafting of them were developed. 4) About the drafting of Raglan curve, it is gotten adequate curve using sprine function. 5) Clothes-Pattern are making very correctly and quickly by using computer.

• Korean Journal of Human Ecology
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• v.21 no.2
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• pp.299-314
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• 2012

The purpose of this study was to explore effects of pattern alteration using a virtual clothing simulation approach in combination with 3D analysis software. Three raglan sleeves of different patterns were worn by an avatar using virtual clothing simulation with silk and cotton as the test fabrics. It was observed that the silhouette and hemline shape were affected differently based on raglan sleeve pattern and fabric type. By examining clothing pressure distribution, the cotton fabric designs and pattern shapes provided for a variety of influences on armhole and bust regions as well as the back sleeve area. For representative locations, cross section circumstance, cross section area, and volume were measured by using 3D analysis and the resulting correlation between the 2D and 3D data were investigated. Among different fabrics, there was little difference between the 2D and 3D clothing surface area. However, when using 3D analysis, clothing volume was significantly affected by different fabrics and pattern types. By simultaneously adopting the virtual simulator and 3D analysis, quantitative assessment of virtual clothing simulation was successfully conducted. In light of the results of this study, the resulting methodology is expected to be used as a comprehensive evaluation tool for virtual clothing simulation wear testing.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.21 no.2
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• pp.163-170
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• 2019

This study utilized the wearing test of subjects and a preference survey to determine wearing preference on types of blouses according to shoulder angle. The shoulder angles of the subjects were set as average shoulder, slopping shoulder, and square shoulder. The blouse sleeves were set as set-in, raglan, and kimono according to five domestic clothing construction books. A total of 15 blouses were made and tested by different bodices and sleeve types. The wearing test of subjects had the human subjects evaluate the appearance of the subject looking at the mirror while standing as well as evaluated the sensation test while not looking at the mirror. The preference survey was given to 100 females and was conducted using photos with combinations of three types of sleeves and shoulder angles in a survey under the same conditions. The average shoulder showed that set-in with the highest score in the wearing test was also preferred in the preference survey. The slopping shoulder evaluated the highest score in the wearing test by mirror; however, the preference survey showed that raglan was the most preferred choice. The squared shoulder showed that raglan with a high score in the wearing test by mirror was also preferred in the preference survey.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.60 no.8
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• pp.67-85
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• 2010

School uniform has improved greatly in terms of fit, size, function, and design due to steep competition in the market and the strong interest of researcher, while little effort has been made for physical training uniform, so the objective of this study is to provide basic research data of the training uniform for the improvement of its design and fitness. For this purpose, 327 high school girls provided information on size and design of their uniform, level of satisfaction, the recognized ease in uniform. Most students wore the physical training uniform in another classes and the long sleeved shirt were the most popular one. They often used the uniform for the protection from cold and for comfortable activeness. For a long sleeved shirt, most students preferred raglan sleeve, zip-up collar, straight waist line, and ribbed sleeve cuffs and hem. For long pants, students preferred elastic waist band and ribbed pants cuffs. Currently, the short-sleeved shirt mostly had a shirts collar, ribbed hem, straight waist line with raglan sleeve, but students wanted a round neck and set-in sleeve. For overall level of satisfaction, students showed high satisfaction in terms of function and psychological effect, while aesthetic quality of the uniform was needed to be much improved. Most students evaluated that the circumference of uniforms properly fit or had a little ease, and students considered waist size the most suitable. The long pants length evaluated properly fit or a little long. Students accepted that the ease of summer uniform was more suitable than winter uniform's both at circumference and at length. Depending on students' height distribution, the length of long pants and short pants varied significantly.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.15 no.2 s.38
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• pp.139-150
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• 1991

The purpose of this study is to do the Somatotype classification according to the type of shoulder-neck and to give the thinkness of shoulder pad according to them. Therefore this study was measurement body size of 201 and the somatotypes were classified as their plumb line. The standard somatotype of this measurement was classified as 9 type according to its angle of shoulder inclination and neck length. Pads which have different thickness (1 cm, 1.5 cm, 2 cm) were attached to the 9 body type and the set-in sleeve blouse and raglan sleeve blouse were made and tring test and sensory test were accomplished. The results of this study were as follows: 1 . Classification of shoulder-neck relationship. Angles of shoulder inclination ($15^{\circ},\;21^{\circ},\;27^{\circ}$), lock lenaths (10 cm, 12.5 cm, 15 cm) were classi- fied as 3 type each and these types were combined as 9 types. II . The result of angle difference of shoulder inclination according to pad thickness. 1) In case of set-in pad. angle is increased $5.75^{\circ}$ per 1 cm of pad thickness. 2) In case of raglan pad. angle is increased $6.45^{\circ}$ per 1 cm of pad thickness. III. The most fit pad thickness to the 9 types. In case of set-in sleeve blouse. 1) High shoulder-long neck, Standard shoulder-long neck Low shoulder-long neck, Stan-dard shoulder·standard neck. Low shoulder-standard neck: 1.5 cm. 2) High shoulder-standard neck, Standard shoulder-short neck, Low shoulder-short neck: 1 cm. 3) High shoulder-short neck: 0 cm(without pad) In case of raglan sleeve blouse. 4) High shoulder-long neck, Standard shoulder-long neck, Low shoulder·long neck, Stan-dard shoulder-standard neck, Low shoulder-standard neck: 1.5 cm. 5) High shoulder-standard neck, Standard shoulder-short neck, Low-shoulder-short neck: 1 cm. 6) High shoulder-short neck: 0 cm(without pad)

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.29 no.3
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• pp.388-405
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• 2021

This study classifies the compositional methods of power shoulder jackets from 1980 to the present. It analyzes the relevance of jacket details according to how the power shoulder changes and its compositional methods by era. The research subdivides shoulder compositional techniques into seven, based on shoulder variation, sleeve variation, and the body and sleeve combination. The researcher investigates the frequency and trends of composing shoulders and analyzes details pertaining to the silhouette, jacket length, collar shape, and front closure. The most common method of shoulder composition is an angular shoulder variation. The others are a rounded shoulder variation, puffed sleeve, sleeve variation using pattern incision, raglan and kimono sleeves, and a shoulder variation that expanded the angle and width. The frequency differs slightly for each era. The relationship between shoulder compositional methods and details of power shoulder jackets is statistically significant, showing period-related differences. The homogeneity analysis results reveal that the shoulder composition of power shoulder jackets, the times, and details fall into distinct groups. This analysis shows that the silhouette, length, collar, and front closure of the power shoulder jacket differ depending on the power shoulder's compositional methods. Moreover, the shape of the power shoulder jacket is distinctly different. One can use this data to help develop the power shoulder jacket design by reflecting the details of shoulder compositional methods and changing trends over time.