• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.24 no.2
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• pp.218-232
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• 2016

The purpose of this study was to investigate the differences in various fashion lifestyle segments' perceived benefits and design preferences for outdoor clothing to improve the development of outdoor clothing. Data were collected by questionnaire from 600 subjects aged 30 years and over with experience purchasing outdoor clothing in the past year. Frequency analysis, factor analysis, cluster analysis, reliability analysis, ANOVA, and chi-square analysis were used for the data analysis. The results of this study were as follows. Four segments were identified based on fashion lifestyle: manifoldly conscious, sensation conscious, practicality conscious, and brand conscious. Perceived outdoor clothing benefits generated three dimensions, including premium brand, practicality, and functionality, and preferred image produced two factors, tasteful/refined and comfortable/casual. Significant differences were found in the purpose of purchasing outdoor clothing, perceived benefit, and image and t-shirt pattern design preference among the segments. The manifoldly conscious group had a higher tendency to pursue various benefits and images of outdoor clothing and to prefer t-shirt textile designs with foulards and stripes. The sensation conscious group considered fashion and individuality in daily life but not in outdoor clothing. The practicality conscious group showed a preference for simple and casual styles with functionality and foulard patterns for t-shirts. The brand conscious group tended to prefer a striking design to functionality. This study is expected to be used as preliminary data for merchandising planning of outdoor clothing.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.24 no.2
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• pp.233-247
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• 2016

The purpose of this study is to propose a specialized clothes-sizing system for elderly (aged 60~79) obese women satisfying the following conditions based on the data from the fifth Korean Agency for Technology and Standards (2004): a Rohrer's index of over 1.6, a BMI of over 25, and a WHR of over 0.85. The lower bodies of elderly obese women tends to be shorter and wider than average. Particularly, their torsos from the chest to the waist tend to be more obese than other areas. According to the KS standards, the clothes-sizing system sets up its size intervals as follows: 5cm in stature, 5cm and 3cm in bust, 3cm in waist, and 3cm in hip. Based on the dualistic distribution of each section, the names of the sections indicating high distribution are suggested. For suit tops, 11 sizes are selected as distributed in the 145-155cm stature section and 91-103cm bust section. For casual tops, nine sizes are selected as distributed in the 145-155cm stature section and 90-105cm bust section. For bottoms, 11 sizes are selected as distributed in the 82-97cm waist section and 91-97cm hip section. According to the KS standards, detailed sizes are suggested in the division of basic and reference areas.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.24 no.2
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• pp.273-286
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• 2016

Traditional Chinese operas are time-honored art form, they are vivid in expression, rich in content, embody social, thought-provoking, historical and artistic value. And as a splendid art form and part of China's brilliant traditional cultural heritage, traditional Chinese operas have been developed with Chinese history from generation to generation. Nowadays, with the comprehensive national strength increasingly growing, Chinese government is giving more and more importance to enhance people's awareness of protecting traditional Chinese opera. In actual fact, both Chinese scholars and the other scholars who have done some research in traditional Chinese operas and built up solid foundation for further study. Even though, traditional Chinese operas have not been fully understood by people outside the 5000-year-old civilization, especially what is the close relationship between the apparel and accessories and the names of dramas. Based on this condition, the paper selects and summarizes names of apparel and accessories in traditional Chinese dramas as its thesis, intending to explore the relationship between the apparel and accessories and the names of dramas, analyzing how such names in dramas highlight themes and promote the development of unique storylines. The paper will help Western readers further understand the meaning of traditional operas names' behind these costumes and promote Chinese traditional dramas spreading to abroad.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.23 no.5
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• pp.768-777
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• 2015

In this study, the dyeing of silk fabric with Polygonum cuspidatum extracts was investigated. The contents of this study are as follows. First, the proper dyeing conditions were investigated by measuring the dye uptake (K/S value) that depended on the dyeing conditions when silk fabric was dyed with Polygonum cuspidatum extract. Second, the brightness (L), hue, and chroma differences that appear after mordanting with Al, Cu and Fe were investigated by measuring the CIELAB and Munsell values. And third, the colorfastness and antibacterial property were measured. When the silk fabric was dyed with Polygonum cuspidatum extract, the proper dyeing conditions were a colorant concentration of 90% v/v, a dyeing of time 100 minutes, a dyeing temperature of $70^{\circ}C$, and a dyeing of pH 3. In mordanting methods, the dyeabilities of post-mordanting were higher than those of premordanting. The hue value displayed yellow (Y) and yellow-red (YR) in cases of pre and post mordanting. The C value decreased by the mordanting of Polygonum cuspidatum extracts. Generally the colorfastness of mordanted fabrics was improved by mordanting. The dyed fabrics showed a 90.6% of Staphylococcus aureus reduction rate, and the dyed and mordanted fabrics showed 97.1% bacteria reduction rate. The dyed and mordanted fabrics showed above 90.5% Klebsiella pneumoniae reduction rate, and Cu mordant revealed the most effective bacterial reduction.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.23 no.5
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• pp.922-927
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• 2015

Checks are best considered as a (visible) sub-set of grids, and each check consists of two assemblies of parallel lines, one superimposed on the other at ninety degrees. In the conventional textile context, one assembly of parallel yarns is superimposed on another at ninety degrees. These parallel lines caused by the yarns remain visually apparent in the finished composition. Commonly, checks are considered simply as a variety of woven textile and Scottish clan tartans, or plaids (common terminology for tartans in the USA), famously display a checked feature, using differently colored yarns in woven-textile form. Often the sequence of colours and the numbers of yarns used is equal in both warp and weft directions. Where this is the case, the tartan may be considered to be 'balanced' or 'regular', with the component yarns creating square units repeating across and down the fabric. Thus in balanced tartans, lengthways components have identical ordering, colouring and measured width to those used widthways. Meanwhile an unbalanced check lacks one or more of these attributes. This paper explores further the nature of Scottish clan tartans, using data collected from collections of rare tartans held at ULITA - An Archive of International Textiles at the University of Leeds.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.23 no.5
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• pp.894-905
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• 2015

The present study analyzed data from the 3D measurement of the feet of men aged over 20 years residing in the capital region as part of the 6th Anthropometry of Size Korea. To analyze the characteristics of the foot shapes of young men aged 20~39 years and middle-aged/elderly men aged 40~69 years by age and by type, a cluster analysis was conducted using the factors derived through the factor analysis as independent variables. The results of the study that analyzed the characteristics of foot shapes by type according to differences in age were as follows. First, through the analysis of the characteristics of the foot shapes of young men by type, five factors were extracted, and the foot shapes were classified into three types: Type 1 (short and flat), Type 2 (thick), and Type 3 (long and wide). Second, through the analysis of the characteristics of the foot shapes of middle-aged/elderly men by type, six factors were extracted, and the foot shapes were classified into four types: Type 1 (short and regular), Type 2 (flat), Type 3 (thick), and Type 4 (long and regular). The results of the present study are expected to serve as basic data for the design of shoes by age and foot type.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.23 no.5
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• pp.876-893
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• 2015

The purpose of this study is to identify the influences of psychological variables and fashion-related psychological variables on purchasing fashion items on the Internet. Boredom proneness and public self-consciousness were selected as psychological variables, and dressing style was selected as a fashion-related psychological variable. It was hypothesized that boredom proneness and public self-consciousness not only influence the purchasing frequency of fashion items on the Internet directly, but also indirectly through dressing style. Data were gathered by surveying university students in Seoul using convenience sampling. Two hundred and eighty-six questionnaires were used in the statistical analysis. SPSS was used for exploratory factor analysis, and AMOS was used for hypothesized relationship testing. The factor analysis of boredom proneness revealed five dimensions, "helplessness," "affective response," "lack of internal stimulation," "lack of external stimulation," and "perception of time." The factor analysis of public self-consciousness revealed two dimensions, "appearance-consciousness" and "style-consciousness," and the factor analysis of dressing style revealed one dimension. The overall fit of the hypothesized model suggests that the model fits the data well. The hypothesized relationship test proved that boredom proneness and public self-consciousness influence the purchasing frequency of fashion items on the Internet indirectly through dressing style. The results implicate effective strategies for Internet shopping malls and suggestions for future study.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.21 no.1
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• pp.93-116
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• 2013

This paper explored and compared the textile pattern and motive design of fashion designers' brands and H&M collaboration collections. In particular, this study put it focus on textile pattern design of seven fashion design brands such as Roverto Cavalli and Versace, etc., which were collaborated with H&M. The color, motive type, motive layout, motive expression, and pattern drawing technique were collected from fashion internet sites over the five year period, and then were cross-sectionally examined and compared based on their color, motive type, motive layout, motive expression, and pattern drawing technique of products between fashion designers' brands and H&M collaboration collections. The analyses showed the following results: First, the similar color, motive type, motive layout, motive expression, and pattern were found between fashion designers' brands and H&M collaboration collections, in order to show the perspective texture of products to consumers. Second, H&M collaboration brands demonstrated unique textile design of H&M rather than the trendy design patterns. Finally, the textile design pattern used in H&M collection was more restricted in terms of motive expression technique and chromaticity than that used in fashion designers' brands.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.21 no.1
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• pp.139-150
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• 2013

Fast fashion companies have generated enormous amounts of clothing and large quantities of unsold or short-lived clothing end up in the landfill. As if to counter fast fashion, sustainable fashion has arisen for environmentally friendly garments at different levels from the fiber stage to production stage. However it is still fraught with uncertainty of systems in the industry. Therefore, this study proposed a system to create re-valued clothing from recycled garments for retailers. The target companies are large-sized retailers like Levi's, Polo, Gap, or J-Crew which are consistently producing basic items such as Levi's 501 or Classic Polo shirts with middle-prices. At the material stage, this study recommended additional requirements of designing a garment with a long life cycle based on criteria of an ideal garment developed by Patagonia clothing company. Then, this study explored innovative ways that retailers might connect with consumers to allow direct interaction between them in terms of the process of collecting used clothes. Using recycled clothing as a source material, this study strove to offer a process of redesign where the concept of 'waste to fashion' is developed as reconstructions where old forms are transformed into new ones.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.21 no.1
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• pp.129-138
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• 2013

Consumers' perception of risk plays a major role in how they make online purchase decisions. Since online shopping is perceived to be riskier than in-store shopping, consumers engage in a variety of risk reduction strategies such as searching online for alternative products and alternative e-tailers. This study examines the influence of risk involvement on risk reduction strategies and customer satisfaction. It discusses three aspects of risk reduction strategies: time spent in making a purchasing decision, searching for alternative e-tailers, and searching for alternative products. Data from 294 female shoppers who had experience in purchasing fashion products online was analyzed. This study found that risk involvement had a positive influence on the time spent in making decisions, while the influence of risk involvement on searching for alternative retailers and alternative products was not significant. However, consumer satisfaction was negatively related to search for alternative retailers and positively related to risk involvement. This study provides a better understanding of customers' risk involvement and risk reduction strategies in online shopping. This information would be beneficial for marketers and retailers to reduce customer perception of risks and to promote online sales.