• 복식
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• 제21권
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• pp.193-206
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• 1993

Recently in the post-modernism era ethnic look tropical look or ecological look has prevailed as an important theme of fashion all over the world. The main core of these themes is based on primitivism. The purpose of this study was first to com-prehend the internal meaning and the exteral form of primitivism in modern fashion second to compare the characteristics of primitivism in art with those in modern fashion as one of the phenomena in cultural consistency. For this purpose documentary studies about primitivism in social science and art were preceded as a framework of this study and then objective studies about primitivism in modern fashion and art were analyzed. Primi-tivism expressed in clothing since the 16th century was also historically traced. the results were as follows: 1. Primitivism in modern fashion was summarized by emotionality play ecology and aboriginality as well as was represented by ex-ternal forms of open form part-to-whole re-lation planar intergration rounded form and indeterminate form It was demonstrated that the external form of primitivism in art and fashion is quite similar and is an example of cultural consistency. So it is reaffirmed that fashion is the production of culture representing zeitgeist as a genre of art. 2, Modernism in the early 20th century brought the richness of materials through the de-velopment of the mechanical culture emphasizing rationality as well as functionalism, Fashion also has been influenced by this modern-ism so it has tended to express only the beauty which emphasizes the functional aspects of clothing and excludes the decorative characters. The primitivism in recent fashion is against the flow of modernism. In a word the pursuit for the regression to nature and the recovering of hu-manity is the core of the primitivism in modern fashion.

• 패션비즈니스
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• 제14권5호
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• pp.112-127
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• 2010

Primitivism is a concept that expresses and organizes natural feelings of human beings which is hard to be identified by a rigid definition. It means "staying in the beginning or the initial state, not evolving or developing, and not affected by human beings from the intact natural state". Based on this meaning, the artistic style features inherent natural beauties, as well as plain and inornate design. These features have been reflected in a variety of art pieces. The aesthetic features shown in the primitivism art pieces can be categorized into four different aspects: naturalness, folksiness, sentimentality, and humorousness. These features, influencing modern fashion, have been reinvented by a number of fashion designers. They also adopted ideas from the fancy clothes and ornaments created in carefree life style of the regions retaining their primitive cultures, such as Africa, Oceania, and Pacific coasts, and applied those ideas to various silhouette, colors, patterns, and textiles. Particularly as for textile expressions, they tried printing techniques using the patterns motivated from primitive folk symbols or the nature, applied objet of primitive materials and elaborated ornaments that represent folk and primitive feelings, and employed the primitive techniques such as knotting, crude cutting, or natural draping, to reinvent them as textile expressions in modern fashion.

• 디자인학연구
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• 제21권
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• pp.55-64
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• 1997

본 논문은 최근 물질 문명에 의해 파생된 환경오염의 심각한 사회적 현상의 대안으로서 현대 텍 스타일에 지속적으로 반영되고 있는‘원시주의’디자인에 관한 연구이다.‘원시주의 개념’을 어원적으로 분석함에 있어서 원시주의를 태동시켰던 현대 예술에 나타난‘원시주의의 발생 및 개념’을 토대로 하여 현대 텍 스타일 디자인에 나타난 사례를 분석 제시한다. 이에 본고는 창의적 디자인 개발을 위한 기초적 자료로서는 물론 아직 활발히 진행되고 있지 않은 현대 텍 스타일 디자인연구의 활성화 및 체계적 정립에 도움을 주는데 그 의의를 둔다.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제16권1호
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• pp.123-136
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• 1992

The art which has been beginning and existing with the origin of human civilization had originated from human's play impulse, so called instincts incidentally and inevitably. The highly developed material civilization resulted in human alienations, and by turn to the primitive in order to overcome human alienationsalso they obtained creative inspiration from this activity and, in the result, created various animated arts. In this respect, the purpose of the study is to identify the primitivism in Lacroix fashion and the relationship between the modern art and in his design regarding the external plasticity and internal symbolism. For this purpose, 1 analyze the factors of primitivism in Lacroix fashion, and demonstrates the affinity between the primitivism, which is represented in his dress and the modern painting through the comparision and analysis of works, and dresses of Lacroix. Finally, Ican find out the guie close analogy of primitivism between the modern painting and the Lacroix's dress. That is, even the Lacroix fashion and modern painting are in different genre, they pursued the same way in the same category of art, we have a reperception of that fashion can be positioned in line with the art, as its one genre.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제18권2호
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• pp.229-244
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• 2010

This study aims to discuss the type and characteristics of primitivism in the modern fashion of the $21^{st}$ century and, as a research method, the concept of primitivism as well as the transition of the patterns of primitivism expressed in modern art have been considered and reviewed through a variety of references. In particular, an empirical analysis of the works that have been created from 2000 to 2009 has been performed using domestic and overseas fashion and collection magazines. The characteristics of primitivism in modern fashion possess the following types of expression: First, Sensuality can be cited as one of the characteristics, either by using direct or indirect exposure of the human body, a silhouette which fits tightly to the body, or creating the effect of sensual beauty using animal fur or bird feathers. Second, Incantation: Masks symbolizing primitive incantation are used to cover the human face or primitive incantation is incorporated as a theme of hair accessories or fashion trinkets, etc. In addition, such decorations as tattoos and the body colorations of ancient tribes are reproduced in modern fashion by means of body painting, printing or other accessories, emphasizing the image of occult primitiveness. Third, Naturalness can be cited as one of the characteristics. Naturalness is emphasized in modern fashion not through artificial decorations and processing, but rather through different patterns of exposure by which natural purity can be felt or through the use of non-artificial materials which recalls primitive civilization. Forth, Playfulness is expressed in the form of graffiti or abstract letters and paintings, and the character of the play is often expressed by the use of grotesque images based on various distortions and exaggerations of the human body, the utilization of symbols of primitive incantation and body and/or facial painting. Fifth, Lastly 'folkishness is emphasized. Folk-like objects, facial decorations, exposure of the body and intense color contrasts typically represent the folkish characteristics.

• 복식
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• 제56권9호
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• pp.157-175
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• 2006

The purposes of this study are to establish a theoretical concept of nudism from sociocultural context, to examine its formative characteristics, to analyze the cultural meaning of nudism style showing in the 2000's fashion world, and to analyze and examine its aesthetic qualities. The way of a study was based on analysis and review on philosophy, aesthetics, sociology, popular culture and various documents at home and abroad and previous study and research materials about art and clothes for theoretical study. Also, we carried out a case study by analyzing photo data from fashion books, magazines and internet websites, considering the body and dress as visual objects. The summary and conclusions of this study are as follows: 1. Nudism of the sociocultural context was divided into change of understanding of the body and liberation of the body; naturalism; resistant culture; psychoanalysis context. 2. The formative characteristics of nudism style in fashion are classified in Exposure, Transparency and Body Conscious. 3. The cultural meaning of nudism style expressed in the 2000's fashion are sexual opening, surfeit of mass media, pursuit of naturalism, lookism, and individualism. 4. Nudism style expressed in 2000's fashion is drawn as three aesthetic qualities: Eroticism, Primitivism and Futurism. First, Eroticism of nudism style fashion which seeks for sexual stimulus is classified in Sensualism, Provocation and Innocence. Second, Primitivism of nudism style fashion which tends towards naturalism objecting to mechanic and digital civilization and hoping for return to the origin is classified in Primitivism, Naturalism and Sensualism as per aesthetics qualities. Futurism which is the nudism style presenting futuristic expression through using a new material is analyzed as High Technology, Cyber Sexism and functional Future.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제18권1호
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• pp.29-43
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• 2010

The purpose of this research was to re-illuminated the artistic value of costume designs that had shared identical history with human beings through the formation and the progress of the newly introduced Russian avant-garde art. This resulted from the fact that the Russian avant-garde art changed the human esthetic sense through the trend of art that Natalia Goncharova introduced in the early 20th century. The research method defined the formation and progress of the development of the Neo-Primitivism centering the works of art by Natalia Goncharova. Based on this method, Goncharova designed the set and the costume designs for the Ballets Russes of Serge Diaghilev and studied the molding characteristics of the costumes worn in the performing art. The result were as follows. First of all, Goncharova's costume designs were all manufactured based on the theme of Russian folk art and genesis. In other words, Goncharova represented the Spanish passion, the Russian folk art Lubok, and Goldern cockerel or religious Icon-paintings in her costumes. she pursued straight lines and abstract shapes in her costume designs. her design displayed the Neo-Primitivism influence through the separation between the lines and the surfaces, which defined the costumes as a decorative art experiment. Therefore, the study of Goncharova had one realize that Neo-Primitivism was not only an art form of Avant-garde, but it also became the basis of the molding character of all the artworks. Natalia Goncharova reflected the miracle of the transformation of the early 20th century in their costume designs.

• 복식
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• 제17권
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• pp.197-207
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• 1991

• 패션비즈니스
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• 제8권5호
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• pp.60-74
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• 2004

The purposes of this study are firstly to considered nudism of the sociocultural context, secondly to consider the cultural meaning of the nudism fashion expressed in the 2000's and thirdly to clarify formative characteristics of nudism fashion style in the 2000's. For these purposes, documentary studies about nudism in social science and psychology were analyzed and then objective studies with fashion magazine after the 2000 and clothes released at various collections were performed for studies about nudism fashion in the 2000's. The results of this study were as follows: 1. Nudism of the sociocultural context was divided into Naturalism, Counteracting culture, Eroticism and Narcissism. 2. Fashion, influenced by nudism, tended to express the beauty which emphasizes the functional aspects of nude and includes the decorative characters. 3. Nudism in the 2000’s fashion was summarized as Eroticism nudism fashion, Primitivism nudism fashion and Futurism nudism fashion.

• 복식
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• 제18권
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• pp.291-306
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• 1992

From the mid-1980s '91s, remarkable Ethnicism and Primitivism in the Europe fashion trend could be represented as an exotic taste longing for secenery and emotion of non-europe area in the West. These phenomenon could be found out in connection with Acculturation, which means when two different cultures or more were contacted they were identified or merged in process of diffusion and change of them. This point of view was the culture anthropologic one that make a comparison and analysis of sameness and difference between cultures. The purpose of this study was to illuminate exotic taste represented in costume in the cluture-anthroplogic aspect, to compare with beauty of costume that each culture of costume and the meaning of the times due to those differences. an aspect of the exotic taste and character in the western costume that was inspected by dividing into 'Primitivism', 'Oriental element' and 'the element of a national costume in the East European bloc ' were as follows; First, Primitivism had something in common with what was pursued in the trend of Modern Art, through the late 19th century to the early 20th century. In fashion fettered by technique, the creation expressed in a free was and showed simple beauty of costume. At the same time, pure emotion expression, creative power and witty strong expression give the cognition of transcendency breaking the routine and the cognition of complexity of an included conception. Those are garments showing not only the primitive thought and mysticism but a fancy, an abstraction, and a life. Colors and accessaries which described nature and matched simple costume composition to the expression of various material or patterns transmitted the image of the primitive strongly. Second, "Drental element" which had an effect on western custome historically in a long time had outstanding luxurios adornmental beauty of custome. Extending from the Arab stated India, China, Korea, Japan, each national costume with a gay national culture became one of motif. Various ornamental factors expressed on Trapez Line, Sime Line and Drape, or Raied style, which did not restrict the body. Those were not only functional Easy Look, but were also satisfying human's ornamental desire. Third, national factors in the East European bloc are theme that begins to be embossed in the late 80's. In view of a political change and cultural situation with a double character of Europe and Orient, it was estimated that national factors have great importance in fashion. Item concerned with new concern appeared at Autumn & Winter collection. It shows elegant and graceful beauty of costume by adding a fur or jewel to simple form. These national factors in the East European bloc are simple form, but shows the difference in more cubic formation than form expressed in Primitivism or Oriental factors Exotic taste appeared form 80's to 91's, is thought to create an forgotten romantic emotion and traditional fashion