• 복식
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• 제60권2호
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• pp.81-98
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• 2010

This study aims to examine the subjects of cultural power of the modernism and post modernism eras, and analyze how the change of power and subjects influenced fashion throughout the history from the microscopic perspective, and thus to explain the social relationship of the fashion phenomenon. The study findings can be summarized as follows. First, as the post modernism era which was being formed centering around Europe that was pursuing Haute Couture and formal masculine suits ended and the post modernism era started, America became the center of the world power, and the American equalitarianism and growing wealth among the general public spread over the world, and as a result, the ready-made clothes were propagated over the world, and various subcultures came to have multi-national tendency in the New Media society. Second, in the modernism era, the high class, whites, males, and the pre-existing powerful class were the subjects of cultural power. Although this changed in the post modernism era, as some of power moved from the high class to the middle class, the economically affluent general public, still the western world, males, and whites held the center of power. However, later, females, youths, the third world nations, and so on emerged as minor power, and when the New Media society started, the structure developed so that everyone can share cultural power.

• 한국생활과학회지
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• 제13권1호
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• pp.159-171
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• 2004

The purpose of this study was to compare the characteristic of Chanel style between modern and postmodern period. The documentary research method was used for this study. The modem period was limited from around 1920 through 1939 and the postmodern period from 1990 through present for this research. The results were summarized as follows: The characteristics of clothing style in modem period were 1) the preference of slim & straight body figure as ideal one and slim & straight clothing silhouette, 2) the high fashion image for the elite by simple & basic design, 3) the emphasis on the harmony by the unity, 4) the tendency of eliminating ornaments on clothing, 5) the discontinuation of traditional way of dress code & style, and 6) the modern style. The characteristics of clothing style in postmodern period were 1) the emphasis on erotic aspects of female body and sexy design, 2) the popularization of high fashion and certain social group's fashion, 3) the tendency of harmony by mix-match, 4) the preference of ornaments in clothing, 5) the preference of retro-fashion, and 6) the continuation of modem style.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제30권6호
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• pp.898-918
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• 2022

Contemporary fashion research has paid increasing attention to the sublimity in the context of postmodernism. Sublimity is considered essential in contemporary fashion design as it arouses complex emotions which verbal expression cannot describe. Therefore, contemporary fashion designs need to be interpreted in terms of the sublimity. Through a detailed review of literature, the present study discusses Kantian and Lyotardian sublimity as main theories representing conventional and cotemporary concepts of sublimity. This paper selected five Korean fashion designers who won the prize of Samsung Design Fund from 2006 to 2019 and actively introduce their works every year. Images were collected to analyze their designs introduced from 2018 S/S to 2019F/W at their website. In addition, formative and color characteristics were analyzed to identify the changing features of s sublimity. Major findings of analyses are as follows. First, all designers' collections reflected both male and female sublimity with the respect to its formative characteristics. Color characteristics of sublimity indicated that Jeong, Wook Jun's collections represented features of male sublimity and other designers works showed elements of female sublimity. Essentially, the typical contemporary concept of the sublimity was found in the designs of Seo, Hye In. Consequently, female sublimity is more inclusive than male sublimity, while being opened to otherness.

• International Journal of Costume and Fashion
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• 제5권2호
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• pp.68-77
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• 2005

In contemporary advertising market, one of main trends is to speak surrealistic visual language which provides 'enjoyable spectacles'. Specially, in the beginning of 21st century, there discovered more and more exhibitions and discourses about surrealism reinterpreted from the viewpoint of postmodernism. Surrealism as a creative style of expression based upon free association, has been a great inspiration for fashion ads for commercial communication as well as fashion design since its origin. However, there has been ignored the idea of analyzing surrealistic image expressed in fashion ads in spite of their flood. Accordingly, the purpose of this study is to grasp its cultural meaning through analyzing aesthetic characteristics of surrealistic image expressed in fashion ads. It will provide a better understanding of surrealistic image in fashion ads reflecting popular taste and preference directly as popular visual culture, focusing on post modern context. A case study of surrealistic fashion ads limits to TV or print commercials and digital ads as image ads stimulating visual expressions. The Results can be summarized as follows. Surrealism is an avant garde style which deconstructs the established meaning system as well as the existing formalistic order and then put them together in the frame of 'dream' and 'unconsciousness'. Defamiliarization questioning the whole edifice of representation can be adapted to. By means of paradox and metaphor, unfamiliar new visual world can be represented. The plastic characteristics of surrealistic image in fashion ads are founded as surrealistic styling of time and space, distortion of object by methods of automatism, depaysement, parody and trompe-l'oeil which bring about the deconstruction of gestalt. Aesthetic values of surrealistic fashion ads appear as dualistic representation, allegoric symbolism, fantastic romanticism. Ultimately they lead to marvelous. mysterious, humorous visual effects. Foster reinterpreted these effects of surrealism from Freud's 'Uncanny Concept'. 'Uncanny' means the phenomenon recurring to familiar being defamiliarized by repression. Surrealistic fashion ads strengthen this shocking effect more and more dramatically in company with our post modern needs for fantastic adventure and thrilling spectacle. It can be thought that surrealistic fashion ads reflects uncanny as an alternative which can relieve us of our stress and anxiety and which realize our potential desire in contemporary post industrial stage.

• 한국의상디자인학회지
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• 제11권2호
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• pp.85-98
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• 2009

The modern trend in costumes, influenced by postmodernism, is to use of various patterns and images borrowed from diverse cultures of many ethnic groups. The Yo tribe studied in this paper is miner ethnic group in China, whose traditional costume is very splendid and modern. In addition, its embroidery pattern has a high artistic value in that its shapes are diverse and splendid and each one has its own peculiar elegance. As for the research method, I examined the Yo tribe's history, culture, traditional costumes and design patterns through related books, research papers, internet sites, and etc. The results of the paper are as follows. The Yo tribe's costumes consist of a jacket, trousers or a skirt, an apron and a belt. Although the color of the costumes is all black, there are splendid embroidery decorations with the colors of red, orange, yellow, green and white on the chest or shoulder part of a jacket, the adjusting lines, cuffs, or a part of a trousers and aprons. The types of the patterns represented in the Yo tribe's traditional costumes are related to nature, ancestor worship, ethnic legends, history, religion, and agricultural lives. The method by which the Yo tribe expressed on their costumes is a "peach-blossom" technique, which uses cross-shaped embroidery with wrap and woof threads. Because it is not apt to express delicate and detailed patterns, the Yo tribe's patterns tend to show abstract and geometrical forms.

• 복식
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• 제50권
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• pp.97-118
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• 2000

The purposes of the present research were (1) to investigate the sociological factors influencing the increase of ambivalence and the relationship between, the ambivalence and fashion change(2) to categorize sets of the ambivalence expressed for contemporary fashion and (3) to examine the frequency and the patterns of ambivalence presented for contemporary fashion. This research was conducted through in depth literature review and content analysis. Data was collected from 806 colored pictures presented on 'Collections' from 1972 to 1988. Eight types of clothing cues were incluede: look color texture decorative motifs of clothing collar sleeve and wearer's headdress/hair style and make-up. The results of this study were as follows: 1 The popularization of culture has been accelerated by mass production mass consumption and mass media. Since the 1980s postmodernism and poststructuralism have resulted in the breakdown of dualistic distinction. As the ambiguity of meaning in appearance increases the meaning is negotiated constantly for identity. 2. The most frequenctly expressed ambivalence in clothing was feminity/masculinity and tradition/modernity and wealth/poverty was the least. The number of ambivalent expression were the highest during 1990s. The rapid growth in ambivalence of tradition/modernity was found in 1970s feminity/masculinity in 1980s and modesty/immodesty in 1990s. Within a clothing style ambivalence was manifested through feminine look in white for beauty/ugliness feminine look mainly in yellow/red for wealty/poverty sexy look dominantly in black for modesty/immodesty androgynous look in black for feminity/masculinity and through ecology look most frequently in black for tradition/modernity.

• 복식
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• 제57권1호
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• pp.130-146
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• 2007

Thought of postmodernism accepted between variety and differentiation is characterized by variability and indeterminacy aimed at continuous change. For that reason, modern fashion has been grouping a lot of manners for creation of the various different form and structure. This paper studies the characteristics of the folding system, which expands efficiency of the spatial utility and shows various forms. Folding system expressed in modern fashion could be divided the pleats, which were made of the folding, and the dreaperies, which were made of bending. This selects the pleats as a enlarged concept of the folding system that contains between the former and the letter. Pleats did not mean two dimensional folding surfaces, but three dimensional spatial structures. For understanding of the folding system as a three dimensional spatial structure, this is utilized with the thought of the 'le pli' of G.W.Leifniz and G.Deleuze. The pleats expressed in modern fashion can subdivided into 4 sets; crinkle system, origami system, fractal pleats by folding system, and drapery system. And Formative characteristics of the pleats are analyzed with enlargement, fluidity, deconstruction, irregularity.

• 패션비즈니스
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• 제17권4호
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• pp.40-57
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• 2013

In examining the relationship between fashion and art which are intimately interrelated, the body is a suitable subject in that it is the common object of representation. This study investigates and compares the images of the body in Francis Bacon's paintings from 1940s to 1970s and the formative aspect and aesthetic value of the abstract body images in Rei Kawakubo's designs since 1980s. The figures in Bacon's paintings are confusingly and atypically deformed as well as distorted, which are the combinations of the anatomies without references, not so much represented objects as experienced sense. Kawakubo's designs attempt to deform the body, moreover, she transforms the body; represent abstract forms without association with any other figures that exist, emphasizing sculptural or architectural shapes of garment. She suggests extensive visual language of dress by challenging the norms of beauty. The body in Bacon and Kawakubo's works is dispersive as well as complex in that the body images are deconstructed, fragmented, and exaggerated. Respectively, they articulate the perception of the body in postmodernism era by destroying the myth of subject; furthermore establish the aesthetics that transcend conventional ideals by reevaluating as well as refusing the standards of beauty.

• 패션비즈니스
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• 제13권4호
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• pp.60-76
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• 2009

Expression of woman characters in fusion traditional dramas plays a role of making the progress of dramas not bigoted and new. Especially, woman characters have a high weight as a heroine by an increase in their image in fusion traditional dramas. Expression of characters harmonizing modern with tradition has also given a help in reflecting a trend of the present times. Hair style and face makeup of woman characters in fusion traditional dramas are in the process of fusionization getting an effect from postmodernism. They are expressing the hair style of symbolization modern elements of hair style to traditional hair styles. They also expressed a neutral image with faded hair styles in the shaggy cut style and dye of neoplaticism. Neo-hippie style was changed into the style of naturalism and nationalism and the hair style braided in various branches as the one of Indians was changed into a primitive and national feature. It is producing a new style by permitting even a long-hair permanent wave hair style. Expression of straight hair style, a long-hair shaggy & bulging wave style and a hair style of neoplaticism, was distinguished. In the side of face makeup, they expressed its luxurious and splendid style by attaching great importance to its luster and are exposing images of characters by a smoky makeup emphasizing eye lines. Their face makeup was almost never separated from present dramas as using pearl shadow in a glossy lips makeup and color, which made it possible to express it more dramatically in fusion traditional dramas than in present dramas. In the event of the makeup element of fusion traditional dramas permitting diversity, the character makeup of fusion traditional dramas made a foundation to show people diverse elements of makeup by mix & match a present elements and past elements of historical research, which made it possible to express a unique makeup or a special makeup. Diverse makeup expressions were limited by reflection of illumination even in the existing videos. Therefore, 'Fusion' made it possible to express it more freely in fusion traditional dramas than in present dramas.

• 복식
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• 제54권1호
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• pp.141-157
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• 2004

The purpose of this study is to clarify the style of romanticism in fashion. Romanticism is advocating the conception called the respect of diversity and individuality in the modern society dominated by postmodernism trying to accept the various values.. In this study, the characteristics of romanticism are examined through the bibliographies on philosophy, aesthetics, architecture and art. In fashion. 19C is based on the costume history books and pictures. The characteristics of romanticism in literature and art which are applied to fashion are sensuality, ornament, exoticism and complexity. On the basis of these characteristics, the 19C fashion of romanticism are analyzed as follows. ㆍ Sensuality to emphasize sexual region of woman's body and to make ‘X’ silhouette is through exaggeration and exposure. This is the characteristic to relieve femininity. ㆍ Ornamentation is expressed in the gorgeous color and the varied material. details and trimming to add the fantastic mood, and the accessory to express the aristocratic elegance. This is a very important characteristic that produces the fantastic and romantic mood. ㆍExoticism to express aspiration for East is expressed either in items or accessories imported from the East. or in exotic material and pattern. This is the characteristic of fashion to express the desire to escape from the reality in the mysterious mood. ㆍMingler is expressed, contrasting or harmonizing the various patterns, color, material in a fashion by the textile with the rich color and print of the various feeling and many trimming. This is the external characteristic of the romanticism fashion combined the experimental mind of the technical progress with the romantic trend in those days. These characteristics of romanticism fashion in the 19th century presented with the various phenomena by working complexly rather than independently.