• 복식
• /
• 제56권7호
• /
• pp.115-125
• /
• 2006

The study on plane composition in clothing was focused mainly on woven wear earlier but its application has been reaching the knit wear. This study is confined to the utilization with geometrical linear pattern in the modern apparel. The work here intends to grasp the plane structure found in both woven wear and knit wear and, in particular, to understand the aesthetics of fashion. The modern flat patterned clothing has been affected by the oriental style or postmodernism in view of social and cultural aspect while its fabric material and expression method shows the diversity in terms of industrial and technical aspect. It can be characterized as several outstanding patterns: the geometrical pattern in structure, the linear pattern with seam line and 2-dimensional plane pattern without seam line, and the flexible silhouette integrated into one single shape with human body unlike the traditional apparel The aesthetics of fashion in modern flat patterned clothing can be divided into such category as the organically spatial change, the re-creation of tradition and the non-format framework. The organically spatial change shows the geometrical formation in clothes due to change in dimension, where the organically changing uniformity and generosity appears as the dimension progresses. The timeless without any difference of up and down, left and right, and inside and outside and the discontinuity due to limitless spatial change are also imbedded. The re-creation of tradition tells the reshaped spirits of old tradition by integrating and modifying the hereditary features in the old customed clothing into modern clothing. The modern flat patterned clothing implies the contemporaneousness or the frame through which the old and modern cultures may be shared and indicates the re-creation of the past and uniformity. The non-format framework contains the uncertainty in meaning and it doesn't have any certain standards. As both the apparel and the human body with this style aim at the open space, the numerous contingencies are realized.

• 복식
• /
• 제60권7호
• /
• pp.47-60
• /
• 2010

The goal of this dissertation is to analyze various Romantic styles appearing in modern fashion based upon the 'Difference' theory developed by Gilles Deleuze. A new framework for analyzing the changes of dress style based upon the 'Difference' theory derived from Deleuze's theory and from his interpretations of paintings was developed. The characteristics that represent 'difference' in change of dress style are deformation and hybridization. They are derived from the Deleuze's interpretations of 'difference' represented in the paintings by Bacon. The aesthetic values of the Romantic style in the 19th century dress are subordination, sensuality, and maternity. And the formative characteristics of the Romantic style dress are suppression of body, fixed form, volume, and ornamentation. The formative characteristics of the Romantic style that have appeared since 1980s is analyzed according to deformation and hybridization and the results are as follows: first, deformation caused by exaggeration or emphasis in the modern Romantic fashion creates changeability of the form, destruction of the 19th century style, volume, and ornamentation. Second, hybridization by combining heterogeneous characteristic between times and genders (for example, the 19th century and modern times or masculinity and femininity) frees body from the dress and changes the dress silhouettes and ornamentation. Thus totally new and different Romantic style is created. The Romantic style in modern fashion changed into the appropriate style to the modern society under various conditions such as designer's will, postmodernism, changes of femininity and technology. It can be said that this is an example of the Deleuze's 'becoming' theory.

• 복식
• /
• 제61권1호
• /
• pp.94-108
• /
• 2011

The goal of this dissertation is to analyze various Romantic styles appearing in modem fashion based upon the 'Difference' theory developed by Michel Foucault. The characteristics that represent 'difference' in change of dress style are absence and resemblance. They are derived from the Foucault's interpretations of 'difference' represented in the paintings by Vel$\acute{a}$zquez and Magritte. The formative characteristics of the Romantic style dress in the 19th century are suppression of body, fixed form, volume, and ornamentation. And the aesthetic values of that are subordination, sensuality, and maternity. The formative characteristics of the Romantic style that have appeared since 1980s is analyzed according to absence and resemblance. The results are as follows: first, absence in fashion means that body is more emphasized than dress represented by omitting part or the entire of dress or using the transparent materials. In modem fashion, absence also frees the body from dress and creates ambiguity of boundaries between body and dress. Another characteristic of the absence is lessening the volume, which means the size of dress remains still big but the weight is lightened. Second, resemblance means the formative similarities between the Romantic style of the $19^{th}$ century's and that of modem fashion created through using modem technology and materials. The characteristics of the resemblance are the fixed form, lessening of volume of the dress and ornamentation. Feminine beauty inherent in the original, such as subordination, sensuality, and maternity, looses its symbolic meaning and what is created is a new combination of images and signifiant that contain no or uncertain meanings. Thus totally new and different Romantic style is created. The Romantic style in modem fashion changed into the appropriate style to the modem society under various conditions such as designer's will, postmodernism, changes of femininity and technology.

• 복식
• /
• 제63권3호
• /
• pp.78-94
• /
• 2013

In order to examine the influence of Anti-form in contemporary fashion focusing on 'signs of time', which illustrates the zeitgeist effects art and fashion, this study investigates both Anti-form movement in art of 1960s and 1970s and the fashion designs since 1970s when the signs of the influence of Anti-form in fashion began to appear. This was done by conducting literary survey as well as case analysis. Anti-form values the process and signs of time in that it visualizes the time and the process of making artworks. The emphasis on signs of time in Anti-form is observed in postmodernism fashion. Visualization of manufacturing process, visualization of signs of wearing, and continuation of wearing experience are all influences of the Anti-form in fashion. Visualization of manufacturing process exposes the techniques and the materials involved in garment construction such as linings, inside-out seams, interlinings, and unraveled hems, as well as the use of muslin, which is used in making garment prototypes. Signs of wearing is articulated in wrinkles caused by wearing, sings of alteration, reappeared designs of the past collections, reuse of vintage fabrics or garments, and the fabrics which assumes aged appearance. Continuous experience of a wearer is indicated in that the garment shape is not predetermined but changes continuously by the wearer's body shape and movement, which generates new and relative silhouettes continuously.

• 한국실내디자인학회논문집
• /
• 제24권3호
• /
• pp.15-29
• /
• 2015

Social and cultural impact of postmodernism in the seek for diversity and to respect the individual's personality and character was the center of human-centered thinking. This also affects the design area, as well as architecture, interior design. It is because of interactive interior design that reflects the lives and relationships with people. Thus, in modern society, people to meet the diverse needs have created a third space. Today's commercial space in the flow to a variety of users and is trying to provide comfort. To go to stores often offer lifestyle and proceeding to the next stage of life. Space for the creative force is trying to become getting better space. Collaboration is refer to phenomenon that two or more objects meet to collaborate. Collaboration is can be classified of space, art, low/high, high concept and star collaboration. And this study has been studied mainly collaboration. Space collaboration is can be classified of experiential, the third space, brand passes and landmark. Space collaboration elements rearranged to the standards of interior design theory, analysis, and marketing of space, commercial space, with previous studies of the spatial elements were extracted. The purpose of this study in the field of interior design space analysis method for the verification of collaboration theory is that to develop. Thus, the space collaboration has been developed to fit the field of interior design, and commercial interior spaces will be helpful for applying.

• 디자인학연구
• /
• 제18권1호
• /
• pp.245-252
• /
• 2005

이 연구는 소설이나 영화의 서사적 시간성을 밝히는데 이론적 토대를 제공해 주고 있는 '제랄드 쥬네트(Gerard Genette)'의 이론을 통해 TV광고의 시간적 서사와 그 의미구조를 살펴보기 위한 시도이다. 광고는 그 광고가 지시하는 상품에 최고, 최대의 교환가치를 부여하기 위해 신화적인 초실재적 기호로 스스로를 변환시키고자 노력한다. 이런 과정에서 TV광고의 서사도 새로운 유혹의 메카니즘으로 보여지도록 서사적 시간의 순서를 뒤집고 뒤섞는다. 그렇게 하는 이유는 어떤 미학적 효과를 얻기 위해서이다. 광고는 상품가치를 극대화하기 위해 미학적 효과를 채용한다. 포스트모더니즘의 영향으로 TV광고는 기호내용보다는 기호표 현 중심으로 한 보여줌의 미학으로 전개됨에 따라 이미지의 과잉 현상을 낳는다. 특별한 미학적 효과를 위해 시간적으로 변형된 TV광고는 새롭고 세련된 화면을 제공하지만 모호한 이미지들로 인해 해석의 불확정성을 낳기도 한다. 하지만 이런 양상은 대중들이 광고메시지를 만드는데 능동적으로 참여하게 하는 여지를 제공해 준다는 점에서 의미가 있다.

• 패션비즈니스
• /
• 제11권1호
• /
• pp.48-60
• /
• 2007

The purpose of this study is to examine the romantic costume style which has become a big trend before and after the 21th century. For this purpose, I examined the development plans and characteristics of women's costume in France in the Romantic period from the 1820s to the 1850s and analyzed the aesthetic characteristics of romantic costume style The aesthetic characteristics of romantic style in the 19th century were defined by the feminine and elegant beauty, exoticism, and sensuality. Since the 1990s, the characteristics are classified into Feminine & Elegant Style, Ethnic & Fusion Style, and Sensual Style. Feminine & Elegant Style is characterized by delicate, splendid lace and frill decorations that have become more ornamental and technical since the 1990s. They create greater romance and express gentler and more elegant femininity away from the artificial silhouette. Ethnic & Fusion Style use more diverse ethnic patterns, colors, accessories, and details since the 1990s and shows more varieties and creativity in convergence with modern fashion. Sensual Style exposes the physical curve of female body. In the 19th century, cuffs and collars were exaggerated and shoulders were exposed for sensuality. After the 1990s, however, see-through materials have been used to show the beauty of natural physical curves or corsets have been worn as the outerwear. Studying romantic costume style, which arose as a concept of postmodernism, the cultural ideology that exists as a breakthrough of our time, is signified by the understanding of the latest cultural phenomenon and fashion trends.

• 한국콘텐츠학회:학술대회논문집
• /
• 한국콘텐츠학회 2003년도 춘계종합학술대회논문집
• /
• pp.117-126
• /
• 2003

시각예술 분야의 폭발적인 확산과 국제 영화제와 국제미술제가 실생활에까지 관계를 맺는 것은 교육의 대중화로 인한 일반인들의 문화욕구와 상류문화와 하류문화의 경제를 넘는 현대예술표현의 특성 때문이다. 모든 시각예술은 맥락 속에 존재한다. 사진이라는 기호 또한 고유하고 단일한 의미체계는 없으며 다른 모든 것과 마찬가지로 사회, 문화적인 맥락에 의거한다. 현대미술에 관한 이론적 해체와 실험적 표현은 난무하지만 이에 관한 해부는 그동안 미학과 미술사적 해석에 의존해 왔다. 그러나 최근의 포스트모던한 회화작품이나 사진작품을 이해하는 데에는 기호학적 해석이 이용되면서 이해의 영역을 넓히고 있다. 지금까지는 전시장에 보러가고 공연장에 들으러 간다고 이야기했지만 이것은 단지 시각적이고 청각적인 것으로 보기만 하고 듣기만 한다는 것으로 이해 될 수 있다. 이 글은 현대미술과 사진작품을 통하여 작품을 보기만 하는 것보다는 기호학적으로 읽어서 보다 총체적으로 접근 할 수 있다는 것이다.

• 한국조경학회지
• /
• 제26권2호
• /
• pp.1-14
• /
• 1998

The purpose of this study is to find out how the urban landscape of Korea, especially Seoul, changed during the last half century since 1945. The modernization of Korea, which had begun in 1960's after the chaotic period caused by Korean War, influenced the rapid growth of cities and the radical changes of its structures. But the Western-minded planning theories based on rationalism and positivism was directly applied in developing our traditional cities and consequently the modern urban landscape including urban pattern, architectural style, and commercial and residential landscape revealed disharmony, discrepancy and inconsistency in skylines, streetscape and so on. The findings are summarized as follows. 1. Because the urban structure and pattern changed in undesirable manner in terms of land use and traffic circulation, cities as a whole resulted in exclusive and heterogeneous landscape, and citizens lost their identity and felt alienated. 2. Because the architectural forms of important and monumental buildings which influenced the character of streetscape were not so successful in inventing contemporary Korean Style in true sense, we still have difficulty in creating the urban landscape of originality and legibility. 3. Because from the beginning of this era almost all highrise buildings were designed by modernism-oriented western architects, the commercial landscape of central cities did not evoke a sense of place, and after the introduction of postmodernism this tendency is ore striking even in everyday ordinary streetscape. 4. The newly formed residential landscape which was mainly composed of highly dense and highrise apartment, not only evolved very overwhelming and ugly visual impact but also exposed many social problems in living condition, neighboring and face-to-face contact. In conclusion, in ordr to define the 'Koreanness' of our urban landscape, we have to struggle to combine traditional architectural heritage and native townscape with Western shape, thought and theory, no matter how difficult it may be.

• 조형예술학연구
• /
• 제5권
• /
• pp.35-66
• /
• 2003

This article dealt with the formation and dissolution of tautological structure in the Frank Stella's work from 1959 to 1980 years by the analysis of signifier. A characteristic of Stella's work change is that it has the gradual progress which condensed into three periods -1) the formation and fixation period of tautological structure 2) the relaxation period of tautological structure and 3) the dissolution period of tautological structure. In other words, the early works of stella in the early 1960s has the structure which minimize differences in one hand, and maximize strictness, clearness, and identity on the other hand However, the stella's work from mid 1960s to mid 1970s extend differences gradually, while keeping a characteristic of prior work. And the stella's work after late 1970s has the decentered disintegration, namely anti-tautological structure which maximize differences. 'The formation and dissolution of tautological structure' in the Stella's work could be understood in relation to the fact that the Greenberg's modernist canon has loss the power gradually after late 1960s. That is to say, the dissolution of tautological structure in the late stella's work could be interpreted as the inevitable product which is produced in the searching for a new canon of painting. However, on the other hand, the structural change of stella's work in the late 20th Century is also understood in relation to the broader context, the social, and cultural context. Here, it is interpreted as the one of typical example which reflect a social and cultural convulsion designated as a 'Coming of Postmodernism'. In short, the late Stella's work which emphasize differences and unclearness, while diverging from early Stella's work which stress identity and rationality could be interpreted that it has the homology with the change of ways of thinking in the late 20th century Society.