• 패션비즈니스
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• 제7권2호
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• pp.15-25
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• 2003

In this study on the Persiandress called Persiandress or Mediandress, its names, styles, and structures that are still subject to a great deal of controversy were investigated. In addition, the reason why the Persiandress was wrongly named as Kandys by the early researchers was also examined. The documents of reliefs on the Apadanastairs in Persepolis and the European papers concerning this themes were subject of this analysis. Such investigation and examination results are summarized as follows. There is still no agreed name describing the Persiandress, which is called "Persiandress" or "Mediandress". Further, there is no definite conclusion on whether the Persiandress was made in one piece or two pieces. The first person who insisted that the Persiandress was made in one piece is a German archaeologist, Ernst Herzfeld. He said that the Persiandress was made in one long tetragonal piece, had a hole in the middle for head, and had lots of pleats when it was tied with a belt. On the contrary, researchers who insisted that the Persiandress was made in two pieces stressed the sleeve pleats in four folds, which is one of the representative characteristics, and said that such four-fold sleeve pleats would not be formed when the Persiandress was made in one piece and worn by a belt. Consequently, they have conducted studies according to their insistence and the resultant pattern. Kandys, the Median's typical dress, is a coat worn over the jacket and trousers. Although it had sleeves, the Median did not use them. Indeed, Kandys was used as a kind of cloak. However, the wrong term, Kandys is still used in Korea. So, it is necessary to correct use of such wrong term.

• 복식
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• 제59권1호
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• pp.159-167
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• 2009

Based on instructions in the textbook "How to Construct Korean Costumes" which I authored, my university students were required to make Pungcha-Baji(Korean traditional pants for children) for one-year-old boys. While examining the students' construction, I found that the side seams of the vest and pants did not line up but were improperly twisted. It was found that the pants did not cover the child's backside because the width of the back was smaller than the width of the front when one of the side panels and the large center panel in the front was half the size of the hip and one of the side panels and the small panel in the back was four fifths of half the size of the hip. Although there were differences between the waist size of the pants and the bottom hem of the vest, the textbooks instruct that the amount of material and the number of pleats(i.e. 4 pleats) on the pants and the vest should be the same. Finding this mistake led me to investigate Pungcha-Baji construction in related textbooks. Thus with the textbook instruction, the side seams of the pants and the vest do not match and are improperly twisted. Hence, as a solution, the pleats should be made and adjusted after matching the side seams of the pants and the vest. The purpose of this study is to examine currently available Pungcha-Baji related textbooks and determine the correctness of their instructions and to ultimately provide correct construction methods for Pungcha-Baji pattern for academic purposes.

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제13권6호
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• pp.877-887
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• 2011

The purpose of Sassanian dynasty was to succeed the civilization of Achaemenid dynasty but it shows vestiges of Parthian civilization in many ways. This study is an attempt to take a look at Sassanian civilization through analyzing these rock reliefs since these features are shown on the rock relief of Ardashir I in early Sassanian Iran. The way carried out this study was first, to collect and search documentary data to establish the theoretical background, and collect positive data by exploring this region and then we comparatively analyzed the two data in general and the result is the following: The form of costume is different according to the person's status. In the early period of Ardashir I the costume style of the royals is reflected by clothes such as tunic, trousers in parthian style. However, trousers do not have vertical pleats which are commonly shown in the case of parthian trousers. It assumed that after the early period of Ardashir I, Sassanians formed their own styles. The form of cap is also different according to the person's status. Ardashir I and the Ahura mazda god put on crown and Korymbos which symbolized the sovereign power. Except the king and the god, the prince and the king's vassal put on high caps called Kolah. Diadem which symbolized sovereign power of king was used by the king, the god and the crown prince. There are two kinds of diadem. The first form has vertical pleats and the other does not have pleats. This form became different depending on the social position. The form of hairstyle is generally thick curly hair which goes down until the shoulder. There is no difference in their hairstyle in terms of the social position. The beard style is generally in the form of scoop. There is also no difference in terms of the person's status.

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제1권1호
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• pp.34-42
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• 1999

The purpose of this study was to change practical korean costume in 20C. In the early 20C, inflow of western civilization started to change korean costume. Since then gradually changes to be simple in Korean costume. Results of this study can be summarized as follows: Traditional jacket (jeo-go-li) gradually began to be long to waist line. This jacket length was to be long and it sleeve is to be short in early 2OC. Traditional skirt (Chi-rna) length was short to the calf of the leg. Traditional wide skirt was gradually to be narrow and pleats shape look as if it in go-gu-Ryeo Dynasty. The width of pleats was about 3~5 cm, be one-sided, look as if it western style in today. But pleats skirt already existed on a women's of the upper classes in go-gu-Ryeo Dynasty. Women's long Coat (do-lu-ma-gi) length was short to under hip line in late 20c. In this way, the practical idea, the factor of design was because of western idea in civilization ages, early 20C. Since then gradually reformed to be simple in Korean costume. Assuming that the trend of simplification in Korean costume is related to the idea of practical. Therefore Korean costume of living or a reformed Korean costume to be design of practical, functional, convenient, economically. And it must have to traditional idea, it is only beauty of shape, pattern, line, fabric in Korean costume.

• 복식
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• 제62권5호
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• pp.88-95
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• 2012

These days, the lifestyle of staycation, a holiday in which an individual or family stays and relaxes at home, or possibly taking day trips to local parks and museums and so on, has increased. For this reason, the market of loungewear has expanded and the meaning of it has developed as a separate home-wear. According to the reflection of this trend, various kinds of loungewear are sold from the internal and external brands; however, most of these loungewears are home-wear and have a training look where esthetic designs are needed. This study is done to benefit those who prefer organic products, known as LOHAS trend. In addition, we developed the loungewear fashion design products, which reflect the LOHAS trend that uses organic cotton for the S/S collection of 2012. The formation of space between body and textile by pleats in these designs on pants, skirts, tops, sleeves, capes connote the meaning of loungewear that give the wearers comfort. As a result of this study, we have reached these final conclusions. First, loungewear is suitable for featuring the human body structure. Second, organic costumes can be preferable and become superior if it combines both functional and aesthetic appreciations. Third, eco-costumes can become more of a formal wear as eco-design achieves qualitative improvement.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제17권3호
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• pp.396-406
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• 2009

Drapery costume started with using one fabric to loosely wrap around one's body without using technical skills or needlework. Drapery becomes a beautiful and indeterminate form of pleated costume which determines the costume silhouette and serves as an essential component for the composition of artistic costume. The purpose of this study was to examine the aesthetic characteristics of drapery costume using literature review. The study methods include considerations of the formation process of drapery costume with the analysis of costume in pictures. For modern costume designs, the study analyzed the designer's dress with a focus on drapery forms, which appeared in the collections from 2001 to 2007. First, drapery costume contains the beauty of human body. Drapery costume reveals the smallest movement of the body. The beauty of drapes, which is naturally revealed along the curve of the body, and the pleats which form on the soft cloth create the beauty of body. Second, drapery costume has rhythmical beauty. Drapery pleats feature not only functions, but also unique formativeness that provides rhythmicity and regular or irregular direction effects by line. Third, drapery costume features elegant beauty. Bias cutting by draping can effectively express the elegant characteristics of the fabric. In making a piece of clothing, the composition method can express elegant beauty by covering up the shortcomings of the fitting and by fitting to the body line without cutting the fabric, or fitting it by bias cutting.

• The International Journal of Costume Culture
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• 제3권1호
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• pp.61-68
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• 2000

In recognition of the necessity to research on dresses of the past to lead future fashion, this study is focused on plastron basque that has constructed or decorated upper garments in various forms from the ancient times to modern times. Especially through reproduction and restoration of Victorian dress with plastron basque, the study approaches the problem in positive manner, As a result, studied 1887∼9 day dress is a plastron of pouched style with pleats panel in front center connected to jacket style bodice by buttons: and it shows changes into modern day dress form by constructing fitted line with decorative effects. By actually making the plastron that was only seen in picture, we expect this study will be a valuable resource for developing patterns, sewing and decoration techniques.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제33권1호
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• pp.127-138
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• 2009

This study is about the analysis on symbolic meaning and kunstwollen of Issey Miyake's art works which is influenced by various external factors such as social and cultural background, nationality and philosophy. Especially, this research focused on 'Pleats Please Issey Miyake' and 'A Piece of Cloth' which are the core of his works. The most important concept of Issey Miyake's works is the relationship of human body and a piece of cloth. Miyake's clothes has provided the time and the space where inspires the vitality into wearer. He accomplishes the most perfect beauty through incomplete beauty of cloth. Miyake wants to express the emotion of the human being through his clothes and tries to make special code between creator, wearer and viewer. Fashion is accomplished in connection with human body, not exists just as 'clothes'. Fashion has valued as an art which expresses the ideology and the sentiment of human being most directly. Issey Miyake who has tried to express human life and emotion has promoted fashion as an important part of art. Miyake is accepting and delivering the history and culture, expressing and communicating empathy, and combining the different fields harmoniously.

• 한국가정과학회지
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• 제10권1호
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• pp.37-48
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• 2007

The purpose of this study was to investigate the proper combination of ensemble suit details for the body silhouette of elderly women. In this study, the principal component analysis was used to search for the proper combination of suit details for covering defects of body which has been changed unbalanced. The designs of evaluated suits were manipulated in 18 different kinds by the essential elements such as collars, neckline(round neckline, shirt collar, tailored collar), types of one-piece dress(pleats type, gather type, flare type), and opening(opened, closed). The data evaluated by a multiple ranking test was analyzed by mean, paired t-test, ANOVA and Duncan's multiple ranged test. The results were summarized as follows: In case of normal body type, it had complementary effects for upper body with closed round neckline jacket or shirt collar jacket, and for lower and the whole body with a combination of closed tailored collar jacket or shirt collar jacket with pleats or gored type one piece dress. The visual effect for elderly women's body shape was different in opened or closed jacket. And that enhanced by Jacket with collar.

• 설비공학논문집
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• 제23권12호
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• pp.799-804
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• 2011

Radioactivity of high concentrations have existed in the handling nuclear materials in hot cell of PIEF(Post Irradiation Examination Facility). The exhaust filtration system was enabled to process cylindrical filters by using a manipulator in the hot cell. By establishing a double filtration system with two filters, backup protection against leakage or failure of the first is provided by the second filter. Additionally, this a arrangement is arrange intended to increase the total filtration efficiency. The result of the pressure drop changing in the air flow of the cylindrical and HEPA filters is observed by a curved line. A filtering efficiency of more than 99.99% to $0.3{\mu}m$ particle appears in the upstream and downstream during the efficiency test on the HEPA filters. The V-pleats type had a lower pressure drop than the separator type. There was no damage during usage and was found to be suitable with high capacity of air volume. Therefore, by carrying out performance tests of the exhaust filtration system, efficiency and safety can be achieved.