• Human Ecology Research
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• v.60 no.2
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• pp.273-287
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• 2022

(K)Hanbok, which is Korea's traditional clothing, differs from the Chinese Hanfu or Japanese Kimono. This study aims to understand the fundamental differences between (K)Hanbok and Hanfu. The Goryeo Dynasty (K)Hanbok, which was particularly popular in China, was established because the Ming Dynasty Hanfu and Chinese fashion were considerably influenced by the 'Koryo Yang'. Firstly, while (K)Hanbok is bulky, Hanfu of the Han Dynasty is characterized by forming a slim silhouette. Due to the climate of the Northern Hemisphere, (K)Hanbok shows a rich silhouette comprising multiple layers of inner pants and a pleated skirt over a voluminous underskirt. On the other hand, the Han's Hanfu creates a straight silhouette in the form of a wrap, revealing the contours of the body. The pleated skirt of the (K)Hanbok can use six to twelve width fabrics, depending on the social position; however, the Hanfu of the Han is a skirt without any pleats. Secondly, the clothing patterns, which have various shapes, are totally different in how they are made and sewn. The Korean (K)Hanbok is a two-piece separate, whereas the Chinese Hanfu style is a one-piece with a skirt. The short length of the (K)Hanbok jacket has a Sup which is cut and pasted allowing the front closure to overlap. Nevertheless, the Hanfu of the Han does not have this Sup because it is of a wrap-around, one-piece style and has an exceptionally large front, and wraps around at the waist which extends to the sides. Thirdly, the (K)Hanbok jacket has separate string Gorums for fastening, and an additional belt around the waist; however, in the case of Gorum, it is unnecessary for a wrapping style of Hanfu. Fourthly, Koreans as an agricultural horse-riding people, basically wore the trousers attached a comfortable gusset, while the Chinese Hanfu had no pants, but the Chinese wore Gaedanggo pants which exposed the hips, inevitably during the Warring States period.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.30 no.2
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• pp.281-296
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• 2022

This study is designed to compensate for the lack of children's clothing relics from the early 18th century and to reproduce young upper-class girls' costume as hanbokcontent. The shapes and materials of costumes are based on the record of 『Sukjong-silrok』 in 1701 and the characteristics of adult ladie's costume relics in this period, but reproduced as miniatures of these relics as like Joseon children's clothing of another period. The reproduced costumes are formal wear for 3~4 year-old girls, consisting of yeoui [女衣], long unlined skirts, and lined skirts. Sizes were set at a height ratio of approximately 155:95. Yeoui is sam-hoejang-jeogori using pine pollen-colored damask with a grape-squirrel pattern and a purple damask with flower-treasure pattern. The full length of yeoui is 24.5cm. It has a square-dangko outer collar with square inner collar. The long unlined skirt is a six-width overskirt that is 82cm long, made with lotus patterned sa. The lined skirt is a five-width skirt that is 61.3cm made with flower-treasure patterned red damask and ju. Several long pleats on both sides of these two skirts have been omitted. The result provides meaningful content for children's clothing in the early 18^th century and will be used as costume for an educational trial performance.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.30 no.6
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• pp.799-813
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• 2022

The environment has increasingly attracted attention and fashion brands need to use new growth models by developing eco-friendly products, along with the drastic climate change. This study drew design guidelines from the factors of clothing disposal and reuse to propose ways to extend the longevity of clothing. It sets the design goals for the longevity extension of clothing as flexibility, originality, durability, and adjustability and drew a specific design guideline. The design methods used to achieve such goals are as follows. First, the design that is flexible in terms of physical changes needs to increase its activity and to be changeable, by applying pleats, rubber bands and elastic materials to the parts with many physical changes and movements. Second, it is necessary to reinforce the brand identity, create design that is flexible in terms of fashion and design very rare and attractive products, for the goal of original design beyond fashion. Third, it is necessary to increase the quality of clothing and improve the durability which can be decreased by washing and wearing. Fourth, it is necessary to create the design that can produce various styles, preserve the state of clothing and maintain its hygienic conditions by using removable detailed designs, shape-transformation designs and the designs which can be adjusted to climate changes and states, for the goal of adjustable design with better functionality. The findings provide ideas for fashion experts to pay more attention to the extending the longevity of clothing products and to develop eco-friendly designs and strategies.

• The Korean Journal of Ecology
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• v.17 no.3
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• pp.355-366
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• 1994

The purpose of this study was to investigate the changes of water quality and the patterns of self-purification with season in Gokneung stream. The vegetation in the ecosystem around Gokneung stream was dominated by Quercus species. In the physicochemical analysis based on the contents of DO, BOD, conductivity and total phosphorus, the upstream seemed to have been polluted, but the downstream was self-purified. In biological investigation by bentic macroinvertebrates, the result was similar to that in the physicochemical analysis. The self-purification constant based on BOD of the upstream, 1.013, was the highest. In the self-purification constants with month, that of September was 0.995 and that of January was 0.272. These results indicated that the self purification capacities of spring and autumn were larger than those of winter and summer in Gokneung stream.

• KSBB Journal
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• v.10 no.5
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• pp.561-567
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• 1995

Using superoxide dismutase (SOD)-deficient mutants of Saccharomyces cerevisiae, the oxygen toxicity induced by paraquat was studied. In aerobic culture condition, yeasts lacking MnSOD (milochondrial SOD) showed more significant growth retardation than CuZnSOD (cytoplasmic SOD)-deficient yeasts. However, not so big differences in growth pattern of those mutants compared with wild type were observed under anaerobic condition. When exposed to paraquat, the growth of yeasts lacking CuZnSOD was severely affected by higher than 0.01mM of paraquat in culture medium. By the analysis of several cellular components ivolved in free radical generating and scavenging system, it was found that, under aerobic condition, the content of lipid peroxides in cell membrane as well as cellular activity of glutathion peroxidase of CuZnSOD-deficient mutants was increased in the presence of paraquat, although significant decrease of catalase activity was observed in those stratns. In MnSOD-deficient yeast, however, increment in cellular activity of glutathion peroxldase and catalase by paraquat was observed without any deterioration of membrane lipid. It implies that the lack of mitochondrial SOD could be compensated by both of glutathion peroxldase and catalase, but that only glutathion peroxidase might act for CuZnSOD in cytoplasm. In contrast, all of SOD-deficient mutants showed a significant decrease in catalase activity, but slight increase in the activities of glutathion peroxidase, when cultivated anaerobically in the medium containing paraquat. Nevertheless, any significant changes of lipid peroxides in cell membranes were not observed during anaerobic cultivation of SOD-deficient mutants. It suggests that a little amount of free radicals generated by paraquat under anaerobic condition could be sufficiently overcome by glutathion peroxidase but not by catalase.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.62 no.5
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• pp.125-137
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• 2012

This study examines the stage costumes of the creative musical 'Hyecho', which was performed six times in the Chung Ang Art Center hosted by Chung-Ang University's performance & media agency from December 20 to 22 in 2006. The stage costumes were made based on these basic design elements of stage costumes that were dyed : line, silhouette, material, and color. First, the creative musical 'Hyecho' presents a new form of fusion theatre, which blends Korean traditional music and dance with videos. Thereby, the musical has opened a new phase in Korea's creative performing arts. Second, in musical performances that combines dance and songs, stage costumes should be made not only to attract the audience's eyes, but also not to interrupt actors' vocalizations and movements by taking their physical features into account. Also, costumes should be made in consideration of their relationships with visual elements, including stage settings and lighting. Third, the musical features fusion-style stage costumes, which combines Hanbok, the Korean traditional costume, and Indian traditional costumes with modern costumes. For the line and silhouette, costumes show the beauty of curves through the curves of Hanbok and India's traditional costumes and also through irregular pleats of pants. Also, by using cotton materials, which is easy to dye and not readily deformed, costumes feature colors that are found in nature through a gradation dyeing technique. In doing so, it offers visual amusement to the audience by making stage costumes look like a beautiful painting. Fourth, the stage costumes of the chorus feature costumes that use lining and pleated skirts using belts, and various accessories, including necklaces that use strings in order to express evil spirits. Since there is not much time to change costumes during a performance, using such items are helpful to show the unique characteristics of actors effectively during the limited time. Also, coordinating with the lighting director allows the costume designer to make better costumes for the chorus and make the performance more dramatic. Finally, it was not necessary to wash the costumes of the chorus of the fusion musical Hyecho 2006 since it was performed only six times. However, when using dyed costumes for the long-term performance, it might cause problems such as bleaching that result from the washing of costumes and low durability that can result in the deformation of costumes. As performing arts are made in various forms and are diversified, it is needed for stage costumes to change accordingly through new attempts and various ways of expression.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.12 no.2
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• pp.59-71
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• 2008

The purpose of this thesis is to analyse the style, color, and items of '06-07 F/W women's street fashion in Dalian. The cultural, racial and geographical uniqueness, asks for the analysis, based on the individual local area on the part of Korean fashion company desiring to launch into China fashion market. I would contribute to the understanding the preference of fashion in northeastern area, thereby, affording a fundamental resources for designing strategies for Korean fashion brands in China. The period of investigation is about 15 weeks from 23 Sep. 2006 until 6 Jan. 2007, with combined use of camcorder and digital camera. The site was Victory Shopping Plaza, in center of City, also with Mycal, Ansung, Dasang department store situated in the Economic Development Zone. Finally, 900 photos were selected for analysing. The result of this study are as follows: 1. Preferred clothing styles are jean casual 45.4%(409), sports casual 16.3%(147), character casual 8%(72), feminine 20.6%(185), Classic 9.7%(87). Compare to the former study about Spring, Sports casual showed dominant rate about 36.0% in casual style. In Winter, however, the preference were changed from sport casual to jean casual. 2. Preferred clothing items are parka/padding coat 32.3%(291), jumper 31%(279), T-shirts 16%(144) and jacket 7.5%(67) for tops, pants 91.8%(826) and skirts 8.2%(74) for bottoms. In the pants, straight pants 78.4%(648), bell bottom pants 10.9%(90), capri pants 7.4%(61), cargo pants 2.9%(24), bermuda pants 0.4%(3) were listed respectively. In the skirts, A-line skirt 51.3%(38), pleats skirt 25.7%(19), flare skirt 12.2%(9), semi-tight skirt 8.1%(6), tight skirt 2.7%(2) were listed. Finally the skirt length midi 75.7%(56), mini 18.9%(14) and maxi 5.4%(4) were listed. 3. Preferred colors are red 21.8%(196), white 21.6%(194), black 16.4%(148), yellow 10.0%(90), beige 9.3%(84), green 7.9(71) and blue 6.3%(57) for tops, and black 40.8%(367), blue 37.7%(339), gray 4.6%(41), white 4.3%(39) etc. for bottoms.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.31 no.11
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• pp.1554-1564
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• 2007

In apparel industry, the production of clothing for the global market, has it#s origin in its characteristics depending on hands on working style, according to the globalization of a fashion industry. These days, however, the globalized production is unable to keep pace with the short cycle of production due to the unpredictable change of the taste or demands in the local area, as a result, the industry has come to take a focus on the production and consumption in the circumscribed region. In this stream, the northeastern area, specially, Dalian which is renowned for a center of fashion was designated as a city of this study as a representative. The cultural, racial and geographical uniqueness, asks for the analysis, based on the individual local area on the part of Korean fashion company desiring to launch into China fashion market. The purpose of this thesis is to analyse the style, color, and items of street fashion in Dalian. I would contribute to the understanding the preference of fashion in northeastern area, thereby, affording a fundamental resources for designing strategies for Korean fashion brands in China. The period of investigation is about 5 weeks from 14 May 2006 until 18 June 2006, with combined use of camcorder and digital camera. The site was Victory Shopping Plaza, in center of city, also with Mycal, Ansung, Dasang department store situated in the Economic Development area. The result of this study are as follows: 1. Preferred clothing styles are casual styles(68%) rather than formal styles(32%). In the casual styles, sports casual(36.0%), character casual(29.5%), jean casual(2.6%) were listed. All kinds of clothes are tightly fitted due to the stretched fabric and knit fabric. 2. Preferred colors are white(31.1%), red(16.6%), black(15.8%) khaki(7.8%) and blue(7.6%) for tops, and black(34.6%), blue(27.2%), white(15.4%), brown(14.6%) for bottoms. 3. Preferred clothing items are T-shirt(36.5%), jumper(33.6%), jacket(20.0%), blouse(8.7%), etc.(1.2%) for tops, pants(91.4%), skirts(8.6%) for bottoms. In the pants, cigarette pants(34.6%), bell bottom pants(21.0%), cargo pants(19.9%), straight pants(15.9%) were listed respectively. In the skirts, flare skirt(3.9%), tight skirt(2.2%), semi tight skirt(1.7%), pleats skirt(0.8%) were listed.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.21 no.4
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• pp.769-781
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• 1997

The purpose of this research is to show how to use the patternist's CAD system in order to make design patterns efficiantly. Using the PAD System Technologies company's PAD System Module, which is very officiant in designing patterns, the basic pattern or design pattern can be designed and applyed to the Sample Module, thus, then it could manufacture, retouch or choose a model, making it posible to go to the next level which is seam patterns for industrial use. By understanding the change of the design that is chosen through the design pattern making and Sample Module process', this study is presentated a plan on how to utilize the patternist's working adaption ability by the CAD system, and also considered the problems in using it. Ability of Design Confrontation of CAD System: 1) The result of an operation can be saved and retouched. On a saved list the patterns can be chosen and changed, thus, making it posible to complete a design very quickly. 2) When sewing every designed pattern in Sample Module, the model can be operated merely by selecting each sewing position, thus creating the same effect of a designer's muslin sample process in a much lesser time. Point at issue in the utilization CAD system: 1) When combining two darts into one place the amounts of darts that are already these have to be erasers, and then, the two darts points are moved that place, thus, containing them, which is very conplicated. 2) When making a gathering, because system can only be recognized in a opend line, the pattern should be separated in order to put a gathering inside a pattern. 3) In order to readjust the amounte of dart. The dart is erased first and then made new dart again. 4) When making tucks in a Sample Module, the form that gets narrow towards the pivot point can not be recognized so the sewing lines of the tucks is adjusted into parallel lines. 5) The Sample Module 3D operation can not attach the bodice to the shirts, instead they become fixed into each other. In the case of shoulder line tucks the amounts of pleats can not be expanded draperary naturally, thus, making it hard to showing the silhouette accurately. If these problems are solved, especially if the silhouette of a model can be created to have natural drapery in the 3D Module, models can be shown on the screen in possible to compare and examine even a change of a detail, by designing this 3D Module Production sample process will be more effective, thus, making the CAD system more useful in sewing design process.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.24 no.2
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• pp.117-129
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• 2022

In terms of junior high school girls' growth patterns during early adolescence, unlike childhood when relatively balanced growth patterns are found and high school years in which the normal adult body type is almost reached, junior high school girls display imbalanced and rapid growth. In fact, diverse size changes by body part occur with a significant difference among individuals. Therefore, it has been difficult for junior high school students to select their exact size when buying a school uniform. This study attempted to develop winter blouse and skirt patterns reflecting the latest comfortable and active school uniform trends, using middle school girl avatars of various body shapes. Skirt and blouse pattern-drawing methods and margins differed. Based on such results, research prototypes were prepared. Then, virtual wear prospective drawings, clothing pressure, and appearance were assessed by body shape. Skirts were assessed with 22 factors while blouses were analyzed with 25 factors. Then, correlations between skirts and blouses were analyzed. According to the analysis, the reason why the dart & pleats position and margin were rated low was confirmed. In a virtual wear assessment on skirt patterns by body shape, a significant difference was found in all categories except for position of the hip circumference, margin of the hips, width of the skirt, and appropriateness of waist line position. The virtual wear assessment on the blouse patterns by body shape also revealed a significant difference in all categories but fit and shape pf the back part. In blouses, a significant difference was observed around shoulders and waist in type 1 and around the belly in type 2. On the contrary, for skirts, a significant difference was found around the hips and waists in type 1 and type 2. Therefore, these factors should be considered in making blouses and skirts. The above results suggested that skirt and blouse patterns should vary by body shape. It is anticipated that there should be further studies comparing brand-name school uniforms for high school girls and school uniforms by body shape.