• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• 제63권8호
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• pp.27-42
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• 2013

The study was aimed to develop men's working pants patterns through the computerized 3-D virtual clothing simulation system and to verify the effects of the 3-D simulated outfit by comparing it to the images of the actual outfits. The average body measurements of South Korean men aged between 30 and 39 used for the simulation in order to generate a 3-D virtual model and to realize outfits of men's working pants for the workers in the heavy industry in South Korea. And also the preliminary questionnaire survey results on certain aspects of the working pants such as type, detailed design preference and discomforting parts were taken into consideration. Both the simulated and real images of the developed working pants were compared in terms of the ease amount according to parts of the working pants, the position of seam lines, the appearance of darts and pleats, and the effects of the fabric surface according to expertise panels' subjective 5-point scale evaluation. The results throughout the study were (1) the basic working pants item worn by subject workers were the straight one pleated pants. The most discomforting parts of the working pants were in the order of body rise, thigh, hip, waist, pants hems and knee girth. (2) the drafting factors of pants patterns differed by the men's body features, which was related to the allocation of suppression amounts between waist and hip girths into darts and hip curve amounts on the waist line level of the pants. (3) the similarity of the virtually simulated and real images of men's working pants resulted in an average of 4.5 to the ease of appearance, 4.6 to the seam lines, 4.1 to the fabric surface effects in a 5-point scale, which means that the two were highly alike.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• 제20권1호
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• pp.29-47
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• 2018

This study aims at looking into women's costume style seen in 18th century to 19th century, and reason out a major decoration, then the formative and aesthetic characteristics of the decoration were analyzed. Research results are same as follows. Firstly, the style of women's costumes in the 18th and 19th century includes the Rococo style, Polonaise style, Neo-classic style, Romantic style and Bustle-style. The main decorations shown in these styles are the gather pleats drape of Fold decoration, the flat embroidery quilting of embroidery decoration, and the ribbon braid fringe button feather and fur of attachment decoration. Secondly, the analyzed results found the formative and aesthetic characteristics of the decoration in the 18th and 19th century women's costumes. Fold decorations appeared as a voluminous property in the form of gown mantua jacket pelisse and dress. Especially, femininity and exaggeration were expressed through greatly inflated skirts. Embroidery decoration appeared as planarity by making patterns of gown mantua jacket stomacher overskirt coat dress shawl and dolman. Especially, exaggeration and extravagance were expressed through embroidered mantua surfaces with peony rose poppy primrose daffodil morning glory tulip leaf and lattice patterns in variety of colored silk threads. Attachment decorations were mixed with elements of heterogeneity added to jackets, coats, gowns, petticoats, stomachers, mantuas, pelisses, mantles, dolmans, capes, overskirts and dresses. In particular, exaggeration and extravagance strongly expressed through the decoration with white fox fur at the hemline, neckline and sleeves of cream colored silk dolman.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• 제17권5호
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• pp.781-792
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• 2015

This study aims to develop a spring/fall motorcycle jacket for quick service transporter. Depending on the results of the previous research, this study produced the tested jacket which was improved in material, pattern, and design. For the tested jacket, 100% polyester fabric excellent in strength, durability and abrasion-resistance was selected as a major material, and Cordura was used as a partial material to improve the strength and abrasion-resistance of the sleeve side lines, elbow and shoulder areas. The retro-reflection material was applied partially in order to improve visibility of the jacket in the night or in a dark place. A total of 7 pockets were composed in the jacket for the sufficient storage spaces. The functional design elements such as the 2-way zipper and the placket at the center front, the action pleats at the upper part of back armholes, the pit-zip at armpit were applied. In addition, the sleeve pattern was bent with the shape of elbow curvature in time of driving and the back length of the jacket was lengthened 4cm. As a result of the appearance assessment, there was a significant difference from the existing jacket in all items but chest size, shoulder width, cuffs circumference, and jacket hemline circumference. In motion adaptability and field activity appropriateness assessments, the assessment grade for all items was found to be commonly higher than that of the existing jacket, and thus, the tested jacket was assessed to be suitable for a motorcycle jacket design for the quick service transporters.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• 제30권
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• pp.295-306
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• 1996

A large quantity of exhumed clothing found for recent 20 years has becom-e the material for making a concrete clarification of the structure of clothing in the Chosun dynasty. Exhumed clothing means the clothing found in the coffin when the grave of the ancestor buried several hundred several hundred years ago is removed to another pla-ce and it is almost comprised of ordinary clothes of the grave-owner not mourning clothes as well as clothing and ornaments in the period between the 15th cen-tury and th 19th century. This research is intended to inquire into the kind of chimas in the 16th century before the Imjin Japancese Invasion of Korea during 1592-1598. The after effect of the Imjin Japanese In-vasion was generally reflected in clothing them and the structure of clothing in the Chosun dynasty began to overshadew its di-chotomy with the Imjin Japanese I vasion of Korea as the point. Accordingly this research is concerned with the study of the chima system of the early Chosun dynasty which shows that there is a common point of the identical form though clothing was exhumed in different graves. Therefore it was possible to grasp women's clothing that was fashionable at that time The object for research is the women in the upper class of the 16th century whose representative characteristics are depicted as follows: 1. Women in the upper class wore the splendid clothing similar to the ordinary clothing of court ladies. 2. The division of ordinary chima and ceremonial chima appeared in the concrete. 3. Ceremonial chima had its extra width and length and exhibited its exaggerated silhouette. in particular it had a various forms of over-pleats made at its center front which play a role in supplementing discomfort in walking. This associate bustle and crinolin styles through which the modern design of clothing can be glimpsed. 4. The opposite phenomenon was shown that has been perceived up to now such as folding at the right plain seam the treatment of the edge-and the like. 5. The elaboration of manual needlework shows the culmination of women's workmanship.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• 제52권6호
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• pp.51-69
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• 2002

The purpose of this study was to classify the body shapes. exclusive of size and corpulence factors of more than 60-year old elderly women by distinctions, and to investigate the visual effects of combination of ensemble suit details. For the body shape classification, the factor analysis and cluster analysis were performed : the mean value difference of numeral values for classified types were tested by ANOVA : and the follow-up test was conducted by the Duncan's multiple ranged test. The data analysis for visual effects evaluated by a multiple ranking test was analysed by mean. paired t-test, ANOVA and Duncan's multiple ranged test. The results are summarized as follows : 1. The followings are the types of body shape according to the shape factors of the front line of body for elderly women. The distinctions of the front li e of elderly women's body could be presumed; that was, Body typeⅠ was a comparatively well-balanced body type, Body type Ⅱ was close to an average body type. and Body type In was a severely corpulent body type. 2. The followings are the results on the physical visual effects inducing the constituents of clothing type. 1) The neckline·collar types of a jacket have a great influence on the visual effects of the upper body, and orderly. the tailored collar. soutien collar, and round neckline had positive influence on the visual effects in the upper body. 2) The pleat types of one-piece dress had positive influence on the visual effects in the lower body in the order of gored type, pleats type, and gathered type. Also. the balance in the lower body had more influence on the overall balance of the clothing compared to the constituents of clothing type such as neckline collar type or opening line. 3) It showed that whether there is the front opening line of a jacket influenced on the visual effects of all categories.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• 제51권4호
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• pp.15-30
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• 2001

The purpose 7f this study is to investigate the change of the ideal beauty of human bodies and the related clothing form designs from the ancient Egypt to the Romantic Period in the aspect of optical illusions effects to achieve the ideal beauty so that we can accumulate the knowledges for the modern clothing form design and the related optical illusion effects. The scope of this study is limited to the female body forms and female dress forms. The analysis on the optical illusions in the dress forms of the various period relied on the literatures and some representative photographs and figures. The important results are as follows : 1. In the body Priority type designs of Egypt, Greece and Rome, the natural Beauty of human bodies was represented by H type silhouett, the smooth and transparent drapery materials were used with radiant line pleats resulting in slant optical illusions. 2. In the clothing priority type designs of Byzantine, Gothic, Renaissance, Baroque, Rococo and Romantic Period, manteau, cotehardie, hennin and poulain were used to emphasize long arms and legs, high waists, belly curves and large heads resulting in optical illusions of vertical emphasize. Also long train, farthingale and panier were used to emphasize body expansion resulting in the optical illusions of Titchener alld Lipps. Large and complex patterns showed the optical illusions of Aubert. 3. In the clothing priority/body concealment type of Byzantine period, thick materials with precious gems and voluminous silhouettes were used to emphasize body expansion resulting in optical illusions of materials.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• 제58권8호
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• pp.91-105
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• 2008

Spatial multiplication phenomenon, expressed through de-constructive trend since the late of 20C, have got changed existing fixed and dis-variable space to smooth, fluid, and changeable space. Ex-form and fluidity of new spatial paradigm have been focused through lots of scientific theories studied between digital thought and indeterminacy and rankless nature phenomena. In 21C fashion, indeterminate and irregular form and space have been crested continuously, which could not explain simply according as the fluidity theory Different from the space crested for multi-function and multipurpose, this is revealed the characteristics of chaosmos that communizes the order and the disorder, deconstruction and creation. Ex-formal space of fashion have shown the relationship of de-centerizing, de-territorial, and do-structural phenomenon among different fashion elements. This paper intends to understand the concept of ex-form, and study expressive manners of ex-formal space of 21C fashion, and conclusion as follows. 1) Overlap changes single space of fashion to multi-layered space through the repeat system of pleats, origami, and folding. 2) Ex-gravity expressed in deviation of the gravity acting vertical direction, for example, twisting, curve, winding, portion. 3) Morphing is shown the change process from single fixed form to different complex form. 4) Blurring is expressed in re-combination and re-arrangement among elements of fashion. 5) Blob shows hybrid fashion space through the liberal compounding and separation of a lot of different elements.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• 제31권5호
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• pp.788-800
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• 2007

The purpose of this study was to develop a caregiver's uniform that is appropriate for nursing and to improve movement adaptability as well as having a pleasing appearance. Based on the results of preliminary study, I investigated the inconvenience and problems with the existing uniforms and made a sample uniform taking into consideration the design, the material, and the pattern. We carried out a sensory assessment and quantitative assessment in order to compare the sample uniform with existing uniforms. Following are the results of this research. The top is a short-sleeved blouse with a round neckline having no collar and with armpit gussets. The armpit gussets are semicircles and the inverted pleats in the back are an improvement designed for activity. The pants are long reaching to the ankles with elastic in the waist so that the waist measurement may be adjusted. The length of the pants can be adjusted with strings and the pants have a funnel-shaped pocket for adjustment of length. We used a mix of polyurethane and polyester for the outer cloth of the uniform in order to improve activity function and used $Coolever^{TM}$, the sanitary textile that absorbs moisture well and dries in a short time, for gussets in the armpits, which is the heavy sweat area. The appearance assessment and movement adaptability assessment were performed with 5 subjects and 9 experts. For the results of the assessment, the sample uniform was appraised to be better than the existing uniforms in every item of an appearance comparison assessment except for the neckline assessment by the experts. As for the assessment of movement appropriateness and wearing assessment, the same subjects were used for analysis. As the results of the assessment, the sample uniform was rated higher than the existing uniforms in movement adaptability and pleasing appearance.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• 제34권11호
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• pp.1836-1843
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• 2010

This research examines the possibilities of a traditional costume revival and digital exhibition as well as the application of 3D virtual clothing modeling data in order to preserve and record a disappearing costume heritage to realize it as a social education tool through the newly emerging technology of 3D virtual clothing. A 3D revival of costumes worn by royal families and aristocrats was accomplished through the 3D animation and simulation technology of Maya 2011 (Autodesk, Inc.) and Qualoth (FX Gear, Inc.). The simulation shows the possibility of a 3D revival and digital exhibition of costume heritage. However, further technology support to analyze and realize the composition and design is still necessary to develop the digital contents of traditional garment culture that includes skirt pleats, petticoat silhouettes, that exaggerates the skirts and knots of traditional upper garments (Jeogori). Further studies on design attributes of historic costumes and the upgrading of 3D simulation software are required to realize 3D virtual clothing. Korean traditional costumes will be revived as a cultural content in the digital era as a result of outstanding issues detected by this study.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• 제32권12호
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• pp.1971-1980
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• 2008

The purpose of this study is to explore the meaning and depth of traditional knitwears, and to develop knitwear designs by using Aran motif, one of major motifs of traditional knitwears and on the basis of the 'continuance' theory of Henri Bergson and Jill Deleuze. Connectivity, the sense of space and deconstructive fluidity-basic concepts of the continuance theory-are felt in such forms as pleats, origami, and air pumping systems, blob and twisting used in the modem fashion. The motif of Aran knitwear which has a long historical tradition can be reinterpreted in terms of those concepts of the continuance theory. In this study, we designed five pieces of knitwear while applying cable motif, an important motif of Aran knitwear, and the concepts of the continuance theory to them. This study will make a contribution to the designing of knit wears through reinterpretation of a traditional motif in terms of a modem philosophical thought.