Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
/
v.30
no.1
s.149
/
pp.115-124
/
2006
Natural dyes are environmentally and human compatible. But they are not various or not fast in color. The mixed dyeing have been attempted to solve these disadventages of natural dyes. The persimmon juice dyed fabrics have brown-color and good hygienic properities however low color fastness. The onion dyeing show similar brown-color and have good color fastness caused by querectin existed in onion outer skins. Mixed dyeing was carryied out on silk fabrics using persimmion juice and onion outer skin extract in this study. The mixing method were persimmon juice dyeing and then onion dyeing(P-O), onion dyeing and then persimmon juice dyeing(O-P) and dyeing in the mixture of persimmon juice and onion outer skin extract simultaneously(P+O). The mordants were none-mordent, gallic acid after-treatment and alum after-treatment. Several persimmon juice dyed fabrics were irradiated for 2 hours before onion dyeing(PU-O). The color values of dyed silk fabrics were as follows. The persimmon juice dyed silk fabric developed to yellow-red color after 2 hours of uv irradiation. Onion dyed fabrics show similar yellow-red color after dyeing without uv irradiation. The effect of alum after-treatment on color difference were highest in onion dyeing. The dyeabilities of both P-O and O-P were higher than persimmom juice dyeing and onion dyeing. The dyeabilities of P+O was lower than persimmom juice dyeing and onion dyeing. The value of color difference of alum-treated fabric was the highest. The color difference of P-O and O-P caused from 2 to 4 hours of uv-irradiation were lower than those of persimmon juice dyed fabrics. Onion skin extract could prevent the color-change of persimmon juice dyed fabrics in mixed dyeing. The color difference of PU-O was higher than the P-O.
Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
/
v.48
no.3
/
pp.543-562
/
2024
This study used persimmon juice, shuliang, and mud to develop the color of hanji fabrics. Persimmon juice and shuliang were used to perform single and mixing dyeing with heat treatment using the pad-dry-cure (PDC) method. Next, mud dyeing was performed, and the hanji fabrics dyed with persimmon juice and shuliang were developed into Yellow Red (YR) Munsell colors with very low values and chroma. Through scanning electron microscopy, the persimmon juice and shuliang were observed to be evenly treated on the hanji fabrics using the PDC method. Furthermore, the presence of iron ions in the dyed fabrics was confirmed using inductively coupled plasma-mass spectrometry analysis. The stiffness of the fabrics dyed with persimmon juice was the greatest, while it gradually decreased for the fabrics treated with mixing and mud dyeing. With mixing dyeing, the colorfastness to washing improved to grade 4, whereas with mud dyeing, the colorfastness to alkaline sweat greatly improved to grade 4~4-5. Based on these findings, this study confirmed that it is possible to develop hanji fabrics with differentiated textures and colors while ensuring practical colorfastness through mixing and mud dyeing.
The natural dyeing of fabrics with persimmon juice(astringent persimmon, sweet persimmon, astringent and sweet persimmon mix) was investigated. After dyeing of cotton and silk fabrics with persimmon juice, we evaluated the dyeability of persimmon juice, the observation of fabric surface with high magnification video microscope, physical properties and color fastness with the conditions of repeating times of dyeing and variables of mordants. The results obtained from this study were as follows: The fabrics dyed with astringent persimmon have shown the highest color difference, while the fabrics dyed with sweet persimmon and the fabrics dyed with astringent and sweet persimmon mix have shown similar color differences. With the increase of repeating times of dyeing, the brightness of fabric decreased. However, $a^*$ value increased gradually, so that it became dark brown color. The $a^*$ and $b^*$ values of dyed fabrics with Fe-mordant have dropped significantly, so that they have shown achromatic colors. But the fabrics treated with other mordants have shown yellowish brown colors. On the surface of the fabrics, threads were bonded together by the viscosity of persimmon juice. Regardless of the types of persimmon juice, stiffness was increased after dying, while crease resistance was decreased. The water repellency of silk fabrics were improved than cotton fabrics after dyeing with sweet persimmon juice, but in case of cotton, it hasn't changed. Washing fastness was improved with the EM(Effective Microorganism)-fermented liquid treatment, and rubbing fastness of two fabrics was better in dry condition than in wet condition.
Dyeing and discoloration effects on the fabrics of cotton, silk and rayon with unriped persimmon juice were investigated. Color of dyed fabrics treated with persimmon juice only, added 3% tartaric acid or 3% aluminium sulfate was not different each other. Dyeing assistants such as tartaric acid or aluminium sulfate were effective on the prevention from discoloration of dyed fabrics and ultraviolet rays. Discoloration were supposed to derive from tannin in unriped persimmon, ultraviolet rays, oxygen, enzyme and so on, ultraviolet rays at wavelength of 253.7nm was the most active the chromatophores and discoloration. The fabrics could be dyed, when unriped persimmon juice was store at low temperature or freezing.
Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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v.12
no.4
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pp.197-206
/
2010
The purpose of this study is to dye hanji/cotton fabrics using persimmon juice and to investigate the change in the hand fabrics. Using the Kawabata Evaluation System, we have examined the changes in the physical properties, primary hand value and total hand value. The dynamic characteristics of hanji/cotton fabrics have been explored by tensile, shear, bending, compression, surface properties, thickness and weight. As a result, it can be seen that the linearity of load-extension and tensile resilience are increased with the increase of the concentration and dyeing times of persimmon juice and tensile energy is decreased in the same condition. These behaviors are shown in the compression properties. Although the mechanism of persimmon juice dyeing has been widely discussed, it means that the fabrics dyed with persimmon juice become stiffened and the elasticity is increased with the introduction of persimmon on the fabrics studied. Bending rigidity and hysteresis of the bending moment are increased with the increase of the concentration and dyeing times of persimmon juice. Also, Geometrical roughness, expressed in SMD is increased with increasing the concentration and dyeing times of persimmon juice, compared with as-received. It indicates that these results are due to the geometric structure of hanji yarn and the introduction of persimmon juice on the fabrics studied. The fullness and softness with the soft feeing are increased a little due to the tannin component of persimmon juice introduced on the fiber surface.
Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
/
v.28
no.6
/
pp.795-806
/
2004
Unripe indigenous persimmons which contain rich tannins have been used as natural dye materials traditionally and have been using continuously for dyed clothes named Gal-ot in Jeju. Those persimmons were cheap and easy to use as dyes because of inedible and widely cultured in Korea. Persimmon juice dyes not only make fabrics brown-color but also give functional and hygienic properities such as stiffness, air ventilation of clothes, antibacterial activity, protectivity against ultraviolet light. However there are several serious problems which are ristriction of dyeing periods, longtime irradiation, uneven color and low color fastness etc. in persimmon juice dyeing. This study purpose to improve dye effect and method in order to enlarge useability of persimmon juice dyeing. Cotton fabrics were pad-dyed to 100% pick-up using padding machine after dipping in persimmon juice extracted from unripe persimmons indigenous from Jeju. It was possible and available to control pick-up rate. The color of dyed cotton fabrics by padding method was more even and repeatable than which by traditional hand method. Persimmon juice concentrations were 4 types of 10, 25, 50 and 100%. The more concentration increased, the more color deepened. UV Irradiation instead of sunlight was applied to color developing. Irradiation times were shortened till 1∼8 hrs. Same color values could be taken without water wetting which were required in sunlight irradiation. Tensile strengths of cotton fabrics pad-dyed with low concentration of persimmon juice decreased but recovered at high concentrations. Elongations(%) of cotton fabrics pad-dyed with persimmon juice were increased 1% more than undyed cotton in sunlight irradiation. Drape stiffness increased upto double times as much as.
It is not clear to assume the history of dyeing by persimmon juice without an early knowledge of an accurate record. However, the beginning of persimmon dyeing in Korea is estimated to be around the $13^th$-$14^th$ century, even though there are no supporting records. On the other hand, there are definite records of persimmon dyeing in Japan from around the 17th century. Persimmon juice was originally used for fishing tools in both Korea and Japan, but upon entering the Modern Era it eventually transfigured into a dye for fabric. In Korea, persimmon-dyed fabrics were used for traditional clothing until it also became a popular choice for modern clothes in the 1990s. In Japan, persimmon juice was originally used for varnishing surfaces of household items, but it recently became a material for arts, crafts, and even apparels. The main difference between persimmon dyeing of the two countries is the presence and absence of the fermentation process. In Korea, persimmons are picked and water is immediately added to its juice to produce the dye. In contrast, Japan produces a fermented persimmon dye. As a result, in Korea the dye can not be preserved for long periods, whilst in Japan it is matured in the storage for 2-3 years. Today's pursuit of eco-friendliness and wellness has prompted an inclination towards natural material clothes. Therefore, it is necessary for both countries to push scientific research into improving the storage methods and colorfastness of persimmon-dyed products for the increase of use consumption in other areas of persimmon and arrowroot dyed fabrics, and the development of environment friendly materials.
By reviewing the cultural and historical literature on persimmon juice dyeing and Galot in Korea and Japan, this study aims to show the similarities and differences between the traditional and eco-friendly persimmon juice dyeing practices of these two countries and suggest a direction for the development of modern Galot. The root of persimmon dyeing in Korea is presumed to have begun around the 13th or 14th century; however, no documents or records have been found to support this notion. Meanwhile, there are records of persimmon dyeing in Japan that date back to around the 10th century, but that fact is rarely mentioned. The historical and folk cultural significance of traditional persimmon dyeing in Japan and Korea was different in terms of the use of persimmon dye and the wearing of Galot. In other words, in Korea, Galot was mainly used as work clothes for farmers and fishermen, who took advantage of the garment's functional strength, while kaki-tannin in Japan was applied to fishing tools and industrial materials. Furthermore, Japanese traditional Galot (Kakigoromo) was worn by monks. This was a remarkable difference in that the garments were used as clothing by a special class within society. There were also differences between the two countries in terms of their use of modern persimmon juice dye and Galot. Korea is currently developing and releasing a variety of modern Galots. Meanwhile, Japan is attempting to develop a feeling of relaxation by using the natural colors of Kakisibu dyeing and applying sophisticated traditional pattern printing techniques to modern Galot.
Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
/
v.27
no.8
/
pp.883-891
/
2003
In this study, a change of hand of fabrics dyed with persimmon juice was measured using Kawabata Evaluation System. Using various cotton fabrics, linen fabric and silk fabric used frequently for persimmon juice dyeing, we examined the changes of physical properties and hand according to persimmon juice dyeing and washing. The dynamic characteristics of hand were measured tensile, shear, bending, compression, surface properties, thickness and weight. Linearity of load-extention and tensile resilience were increased in all kinds of fabrics after dyeing. Tensile energy decreased in cotton fabric 2(gauze), cotton fabric 3(muslin) and linen fabric. Shear stiffness and hysteresis of shear increased in most of fabrics. Bending rigidity of the bending property and hysteresis of bending, linearity of compression of the compression property, compression energy and compression resilience increased in all kinds of fabrics after dyeing. Thickness and weight increased much in all kinds of fabrics after dyeing. In the primary hand value, stiffness and anti-drape stiffness increased in all kind of fabrics after dyeing. The fullness and softness, crispness, scrooping feeling and flexibility with soft feeling decreased. As the stiffness after persimmons dyeing increased, it was suitable for clothes material of summer.
The results of the analysis of dyed rayon fabrics treated with persimmon juice by padding are as follows. Rayon fabrics were dyed repeatedly with persimmon juice by a padding mangle for the development of dyeability. The merits of padding-based dyeing were easier color reproduction (versus traditional hand dyeing) of hard to obtain colors and color fastness to light and laundering. The add on weight increased with the number of padding times, and the color of the dyed fabrics had red-yellow colors with low brightness and high chromatic colors. Properties of fabrics treated with persimmon juice were: $2^{nd}$ level of light resistance, $4^{th}-5^{th}$ perspiration fastness levels, rubbing fastness, and $3^{rd}-4^{th}$ washing fastness levels. Dyed fabrics exposed to UV light have a deep yellow-red color that increased lightness and darken when exposed to sunlight. Rayon fabrics of a treated premordant indicated strong yellow colors, especially fabrics with Fe mordant indicated greenish red-yellow colors. The direction of the weft and warp increased and improved water-repellent qualities that increased with the number of dyeing padding times and persimmon juice; however, there was less anti-crease resistance. In addition, fabrics had good antibacterial activity and deodorization.
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