• 사물인터넷융복합논문지
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• 제9권3호
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• pp.27-33
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• 2023

본 연구에서는 Diospyros kaki Thunb(감)의 염색 패턴으로 분석하여 매염제에 따라 견직물과 세포의 염색 패턴이 어떻게 변화하는지 수치적으로 평가하고자 하였다. 염색된 견직물이 충분히 건조되었을 때 견직물은 엷은 황색을 띠는 것으로 나타났다. 흥미롭게도 철 II 황산염 매염제는 색 변화를 가장 많이 변화시켰고, 견직물은 갈색 또는 암자색에 가까운 색으로 염색되었다. 수치해석을 위해 타르타르산 나트륨과 구연산 및 아세트산 구리에의해 각각 19%와 62.5%의 색상 변화가 유도될 수 있었다. 철 II 황산염은 무처리 매염제보다 88%로 가장 큰 차이를 보였다. 중국 햄스터 난소(CHO) 세포의 약 5% 및 10%는 각각 타르타르산나트륨과 시트르산 및 아세트산구리로 염색되었다. 철 II 황산염에 의해 유도된 염색 효과는 타르타르산 나트륨 + 시트르산에 의한 염색 효과보다 약 2.4배 더 높았다. 기존의 연구들에서는 염색 결과를 육안적으로 확인하여왔다. 하지만, 본 논문의 결과들은 염색을 육안적으로 확인할 뿐만아니라 색상변화를 수치화한 것이다. 특히, 빅데이터에 수치화된 결과들이 계속 집약 된다면 방법에서, 시간, 부피 등을 변화시키더라도 유사한 결과들을 어느 연구자들이 쉽게 얻을 수 있을 것이다. 또한, 본 연구의 수치 데이터는 IoT 구축 및 컴퓨터 분석을 위한 데이터베이스 구축에 중요한 근거가 될 수 있을 것으로 사료된다.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제35권3호
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• pp.254-266
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• 2011

This study analyzes the state and products of shopping malls that sell naturally dyed products in Japan. In this study, 37 natural dyeing shopping malls were selected. The results of this study are as follows. There are many natural dying internet shopping malls located in the areas of Tokyo, Kyoto, and Okayama. The most frequent dyes were indigo, followed by akane, persimmon, mud, vegetation, and tea. The highest ordered product categories were accessories, followed by adult clothes, and interior decoration products. The most frequent products were adult hats, followed by towels (handkerchiefs), scarves, T-shirts, and bags. For the price of products, 3,000-4,000${\yen}$ was the highest for T-shirts, with 2,000-3,000${\yen}$ and 4,000-S,000${\yen}$ for newborn baby and child clothing, 5,000-10,000${\yen}$ for hats and bags, 3,000-4,000${\yen}$ for scarves, and 1,000-2,000${\yen}$ for towels (handkerchief). Concerning product information, most of the shopping malls offer the product size and the product explanations, but over half of them did not show the properties or directions for handling the product.

• 문화기술의 융합
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• 제6권1호
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• pp.105-110
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• 2020

본 연구에서는 다양한 천연염색 재료로 염색한 한지직물을 활용하여 모자 두 개와 노트북 가방을 문화상품으로 개발·제작하였다. 그를 위하여 첫째, 우수한 내구성과 기능성을 가진 우리나라의 전통 한지로 만들어진 한지직물을 문화상품 개발을 위한 소재로 선택하고, 둘째, 그것을 천연염색 재료인 쪽으로 푸른 색, 떫은 감물로 갈색, 홍화에 의하여 붉은 색, 황벽으로 노란 색 그리고 자근으로 자주색으로 염색하였다. 셋째, 문화상품으로 개발하고자 하는 모자와 노트북 가방을 디자인하였다. 넷째, 디자인한 모자와 노트북 가방의 패턴을 제작하고, 그것에 따라 다양한 색으로 천연염색한 한지직물을 재단·봉제하여 완성한 두 개의 모자와 노트북 가방을 제시하였다.

• 감성과학
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• 제19권2호
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• pp.55-66
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• 2016

본 연구에서는 현대 패션 산업에서 활용하는 색채 기획 프로세스에 기반하여 제주의 대표적인 천연 자원 추출물로 면직물을 염색하고 물리적 색채와 트렌드 색채감성을 분석하여 2016S/S 시즌을 목표로 천연염색 유 아동복 디자인을 위한 감성 색채 테마를 제안하고자 하였다. 제주의 전통 염색 자원인 풋감과 주요 농산물인 감귤, 해양식물인 감태를 각각 분말염료로 제조하고 단일 염색과 복합염색을 병행하여 다양한 색채를 면직물에 구현하고, 2016S/S 유행색을 중심으로 Pantone TPX에 매칭하여 시즌 유행색의 감성 이미지를 고려하여 천연염색 유 아동복 디자인 기획에 활용할 수 있는 감성 색채 테마를 제안하였다. 연구 결과로서 제주 천연자원을 이용한 직물 염색 색채는 Purple Blue에서 Green Yellow에 이르는 색상과 pale, light grayish, soft, grayish, dull의 톤을 나타내었다. 이 중에서 38개의 천연염색 색채가 인터컬러와 한국 CFT에서 제안한 2016S/S 유행색의 일부를 포함한 23종의 Pantone TPX에 매칭되었다. 매칭된 Pantone 색채들을 활용하여 세 가지 컬러웨이를 설정하고 각 컬러웨이의 색채들에 대한 주관적 감성 평가를 실시하여 컬러웨이 그룹별로 차별화되는 색채 감성을 추출하였다. 이 결과를 기반으로 최종적으로 2016S/S 유행색 테마에서 가지는 감성 이미지와 염색에 활용된 제주 천연자원의 고유 특성 및 유 아동복에의 적합성을 고려하여 'Serenity'와 'Juicy', 'Fancy'의 세 가지 색채 감성 테마를 제안하였다. 본 연구의 결과는 유행색의 감성에 기반한 색채 기획 프로세스가 확립되지 않은 천연염색 산업에서 활용할 수 있는 색채기획 가이드 라인을 제공함과 동시에, 제주의 지역 특화 천연염색 색채에서 도출될 수 있는 색채감성 테마를 제안하였다는 데에 의의가 있다.

• 복식
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• 제58권3호
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• pp.79-92
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• 2008

The purpose of this study is to develop knitwear design expressed not also Green but also LOHAS using natural yarns(wool and cotton) dyed with various natural sources(sappanwood, indigo plant, turmeric, cochineal, coffee, gallnut, and persimmon juice). This researcher tried to suggest solution scheme through the development of knitwear designs to break from the cottage industry and the limitation of design in Jeju and to preserve of traditional dye with persimmon juice simultaneously. Knitting is the formation of a fabric by the interlooping of one or more sets of yarns with hand knitting or industrial knitting. In hand-knitting, the two fundamental stitches are described as knit depending on the direction of the loop formation, front to back or back to front. In machine-knitting, the direction of loop formation is fixed, unless the stitch is mechanically transferred from front to back needle bed or vice versa. Industrial knitting technology can be divided into two main areas - weft knitting and warp knitting. Each has a different principle of construction. The majority of knitted fabrics for clothing are weft-knitted, and so this study is used weft-knitting and hand knitting technology. To achieve this purpose, researcher tried to present a lot of knitwear designs using yarns dyed with various natural sources focusing on Modern & Sophisticated Image and Elegance & Romantic Image to satisfy adult and missy consumer needs.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제30권5호
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• pp.733-741
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• 2006

This study was to investigate categories of valuation and make the standard on developing valuation of natural dyes by Delphi method. The three-round Delphi tests were performed with 36 professional in the academic, the industrial, and the art field.'Dyeability property' meant levelling, adsorption, color diversity with mordant, color stability, 'marketability', possibility of mass production, economical efficiency, functionality, demand and supply of natural dyes, 'color', yield, beautiful color, value of color and 'color fastness', washing, perspiration and light fastness. Indigo, persimmon, cochineal, safflower and onion in dyeability property were evaluated highly, functional natural dyes in marketability, red and purple color ones except indigo in color and ones containing tannin in color fastness.

• 한국염색가공학회지
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• 제8권3호
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• pp.8-15
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• 1996

Three pieces of cotton fabrics used for this study were exhumed in the Mt.Moo Deung near Kwang Ju in 1965. The fabrics were remains of Jang Heung Lim Si-the nephew's wife of General Kim Deok Ryeong. It was reported that Jang Heung Lim Si died in 1615. The cotton fabrics were classified into three, A, B and C, according to their color. The fabric A was inherent color of cotton, the fabric B was that of light brown and the fabric C was that of dark brown. The physical and chemical characteristics of the cotton fabrics were examined. In the meantime the construction of cotton fabrics and traditional dyeing of Yi dynasty were studied through various records. The results were as follows: 1. According to electromicroscopic examination, the lumen in the cotton fiber had not been developed enough, therefore the quality of cotton at that time was supposed to be not so excellent. 2. The results of chemical analysis indicated that: (1) While the copper number of the cotton fabric A was similar to that of bleached cotton, that of the fabric C was extremely high. (2) The amount of methylene blue absorption was much more than that of normal cotton. (3) The content of cellulose was less than that of normal cotton. (4) The degree of polymerization was less than that of normal cotton. From the results mentioned above, it was concluded that the cotton fabrics were oxidized slowly in the closed lime coffin for a long period of time. From this process of oxidization and deterioration, the degree of polymerization was decreased through depolymerization, and carboxyl groups were produced by the oxidization at reducing end groups. 3. It was confirmed that the cotton fabric C was dyed by the juice of immature persimmon. Thus, it was inferred that the large amount of copper number of cotton fabric C was derived from phenolic OH groups of tannins having high reducing properties in persimmon.

• 한국자원식물학회지
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• 제22권5호
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• pp.438-445
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• 2009

경산반시'를 8월 1일에 수확하여 신선한 즙액, $4{\sim}6^{\circ}C$에서 6개월간 저장한 것 및 상온에서 6개월간 발효시킨 것(발효액), 그리고 감식초의 특성과 항균성을 조사하였다. 명도를 나타내는 $L^*$값은 감식초가 43.5로 다소 밝은데 비해 신선한 즙액과 발효액은 각각 33.1과 33.3으로 다소 낮은 경향을 나타내었다. 신선한 즙액, 발효액 및 감식초의 무기물 함량은 전반적으로 K($1696{\sim}2,880\;mg$/100 g), Ca($166.7{\sim}417.9\;mg$/100 g), Mg($203.9{\sim}214.4\;mg$/100 g), P($37.9{\sim}109.8\;mg$/100 g), Na($13.2{\sim}23.3\;mg$/100 g), Fe($8.4{\sim}14.2\;mg$/100 g) 순으로 많았다. 그람양성균에 대한 항균효과는 발효액과 감식초에서 저해환이 $16.0{\sim}35.0\;mm$로 높게 나타났다. 그람음성균에 대한 항균효과는 신선한 즙액에서 $9.0{\sim}9.5\;mm$의 저해환을 나타낸 반면에 저온 저장한 즙액은 $15.0{\sim}21.0\;mm$, 발효액에서는 $22.0{\sim}23.0\;mm$, 감식초에서는 $9.0{\sim}35.0\;mm$을 나타내었다. 발효액으로 염색한 면직물의 색상은 YR계열을 나타내었으며, 항균성은 78.5% 이상의 정균율을 나타내었다.

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제14권4호
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• pp.669-676
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• 2012

This study aims to compare the properties of natural dye stuffs, such as color, dyeability, fastness, and marketability, to analyze the differences noted by expert groups regarding the properties of the stuffs, and to make a positioning of the stuffs. A survey of experts in academia, business, and the art of natural dyeing was conducted, with an evaluation of 23 types of the stuff's properties. There is a correlation between the properties of the stuffs, and evaluating dye stuffs differs according to the group to which it belongs. X-axis relates to color and Y-axis refers to fastness in the positioning of the stuff. There are different relationships between properties according to their group. Color is significantly associated with marketability in art experts however, fastness is closely connected with marketability in business. The stuffs can be divided into five clusters. Cluster I includes indigo and persimmon, and is marked by excellent color, dyeability, fastness, and marketability, Cluster II contains safflower and sappan wood, which are excellent colors, yet suffer from low marketability on account of their medium to low fastness. Cluster III includes red, purple, and brown dyes, and onion and rhubarb, and has medium properties. Cluster IV is mugwort and yellow dyes, except onion and rhubarb, and features low properties. Cluster V is loess, featuring medium color and low fastness.

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제16권4호
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• pp.520-531
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• 2014

Jeju, the biggest island in Korea, was registered as a World Natural Heritage in 2007. Recently, it was also voted as one of the New Seven Wonders of Nature. The need for academic awareness and tourist values on Jeju Island are understood. Gal-ot, one of the ten symbols for Jeju, is known for working clothes in general, despite its potential for cultural products because of its regional uniqueness and useful functional advantages. The authors conducted a comprehensive literature review and researched market trends of Gal-ot stores in Jeju to present development directions for cultural goods and to contribute to local economic improvement. Most stores were located in a semi-residential area and Jeju-si in Jeju Special Self-Governing Province. Most products were not available for sale due to difficulties in the production process and online utilization. High prices and similar color, fabric and style hurt competitiveness. Various experiencing programs of Gal-ot and persimmon dyeing were necessary to expand the main target from residents to tourists. Also, marketing strategies using the internet and design plans reflecting current trends were needed. This study would contribute to prepare developmental projects of cultural product and result in economical advantages on Jeju Island.