• 한국의상디자인학회지
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• 제12권1호
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• pp.1-10
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• 2010

The purposes of this study are to review the Chinese traditional patterns and to apply one of them, the Peony Blossom pattern into modern textile designs for fashion For this purpose, first, the categories and symbolic meanings of the patterns existing in the Chinese traditional clothing from literature were reviewed. Second, the Peony Blossom patterns of Chinese traditional patterns from literature were reviewed and selected one of them, Third, authors applied the Peony Blossom pattern to creative textile design which would fit to appetite of people lived in modern society. The results were as follows: The patterns of Chinese traditional clothing could be classified as animal pattern, plant pattern, nature pattern, character pattern, lucky token pattern, geometric pattern and so on. All these patterns contained individual symbolic meaning, which varied according the different wearers. Moreover, it endows a peony blossom pattern of Chinese traditional patterns with modern style and purposes the textile design. The theme of the design is "Luxuriant Outing" with the concept of "Dream in Fantasy". The design target is the female born in the 1980's, that is, the target population between 20 and 30 years old. In addition, it is designed for the romantic one-piece. This paper perceives the national spirit revealed in the Chinese traditional patterns and designs with the combination of traditional culture and modernized technique of expression.

• 한국의상디자인학회지
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• 제13권1호
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• pp.113-123
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• 2011

The purposes of this study were to re-interpret the Traditional Korean Painting of Flower and Bird Patterns from a modern point of view and use them in apparel textile design. A literature review of the Traditional Korean Painting of Flower and Bird Patterns was made first, and then, through manual and Photoshop workings, two apparel textile designs were suggested. The results were as follows. First, Traditional Korean Paintings of Birds and Flowers are covered not only by decorative beauty but also by the common pure hope and ideology of loving and adoring nature, which is inherent in the symbolism and racial characteristics and high aesthetic sense appeared by ancestors' life feeling. The meaning that is symbolized by each subject matter appearing in the Transcontinental Painting of Bird and Flower is important, but the ancestors' deeper and affectionate desire is shown in the harmony and happy aspect of a picture where more than two subject matters appear, such as Song Hak do where pine is with crane, cockscomb with chicken, bamboo with beacon fire, or a couple of them with flower. Second, two kinds of textile designs were suggested. The motif of work 1 targeted professional women of activity and individuality in their late 30s to early 40s. The lotus blossom pattern was selected to present its concept, "Chic Elegance." The motif of work 2 targeted intelligent women in their mid 40s, and the peony blossom was selected to present its concept, "Romantic Elegance."

• 디지털융복합연구
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• 제14권8호
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• pp.407-413
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• 2016

본 연구의 목적은 한국 문화 콘텐츠인 민화의 도상을 통한 상징체계는 근원적인 우리의 조상들의 긍정적이고 개방적이며 유연한 사고방식의 표현이고, 의사소통의 방법이었으며, 이는 현대에서도 새로운 매체와 더불어 전승할 수 있는 소중한 유산임을 논의하고자 함이다. 이를 위한 연구 방법으로 언어학적 분석을 토대로 보편적 소망을 담은 민화 도상중 하나인 모란의 상징 내용에 디지털 매체를 통한 주얼리 디자인 프로세스를 적용하여 현대적 주얼리 디자인을 하였다. 분석을 통한 결과물로서 모란 도상의 보편적 소망인 부귀와 명예의 내용을 담은 Blossom 과 함박웃음을 주제로 현대의 최신 기술들을 접목하여 3D 디지털 도구를 통한 디자인 프로세스 및 변형 과정을 보여 주었으며, 생산 방식에 있어서도 3D 프린팅 방식과 레이져 커팅 방식을 통해 민화의 상징체계에 있어서의 개방성과 유연한 사고를 접목하여 형상화 하였다.

• International Journal of Costume and Fashion
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• 제7권1호
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• pp.32-48
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• 2007

Korean traditional flower motifs have often been used in traditional embroidery on personal products and on decorations. The flower motifs seen on embroidery with a variety of techniques show the shapes and colors changing to more and more brilliant and colorful design. Even today the flower motifs in embroideries continue to be reinterpreted in both modern ways and also in traditional ways with their fancy beauty in the design industry. This research is based on documentary and demonstrative studies conducted to find out the formative properties of these motifs through and analyzing the shapes and colors of flower motif embroideries from the Choseon Dynasty as applied in developing modern designs in harmony with their traditional beauty. A summary of the research is as follows. First, the peony blossom appears the most, with its gorgeous flower shape. It was used in a variety of ways for decorative purposes as well as in wishing for wealth and harmony on clothes or on personal products. Second, the result of analyzing the flower motifs on embroidery shows that 'realistic-complex- flower patterns' and 'stylized-complex-flower patterns' are mostly seen. Third, many of the peony blossoms, chrysanthemums, and Japanese apricots were in a radial shape and front facing with stamens, and the lotus flowers were mostly shown on the lateral side. Fourth, as a result of analyzing the colors of the flower motifs on embroideries, a tendency is shown toward the R and RP colors of v, b tone and the shades YR, Y, GY, and G colors of lt and p tone.

• 복식
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• 제59권9호
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• pp.1-15
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• 2009

This study aimed to create a new costume design suitable for publicizing our traditional patterns in the world by using the traditional patterns of Northeast Asia region. The result of this study can be summarized as follows. First, China is characterized by a strictly fixed configuration and a realistic description, Japan a simplistic modality and an abstract-geometrical pattern, and Korea a eclectic type, whole-pattern, and part-pattern. This study aimed to make the pattern by using harmoniously these characters. Second, Korea, China, and japan have many similarities concerning a symbolism and a type of pattern. In the modern fashion, they often use dragon patterns, various flower patterns like peony, plum blossom, or mum, and geometrical patterns. This study focused on expressing patterns which contain the ornamental symbolism of Oriental Look, aside from an existing symbolism, and show a traditional sentiment of Northeast Asia. The method for expressing traditional patterns usually included weaving, dyeing, embroidery, or gold foil. Although these methods have been used in all the three nations, even rubbed metal foil and patchwork have been widely used in Japan.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제23권6호
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• pp.955-971
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• 2015

The purpose of this study is to consider the design characteristics of Chinese traditional clothing, especially from the Ming-Qing Dynasty era, and how they have influenced contemporary fashion. Regarding research methods, this study determined the design characteristics, such as the form, color and pattern of Chinese traditional clothing of the Ming-Qing Dynasty era. In addition, 440 photos were collected from the Paris Collection from 2005 to 2014 using www.firstviewkorea.com. The results of this study are as follows. First, the most popular silhouette from Chinese traditional clothing appearing in contemporary fashion was the H-shaped one, and the internal lines appeared in the following order: Chinese collar; narrow sleeve; symmetrical front opening; round collar; wide sleeve; and the C-shaped Biwa front-end. Second, the most popular color was achromatic black, followed by white. The chromatic colors were in the order of blue, yellow, red, green, and purple. Third, the patterns appeared in the following order: Plant patterns, complex patterns, and animal patterns. The peony pattern appeared the most commonly as a plant pattern, followed by the arabesque pattern and the plum blossom pattern which appeared with a similar proportion. Dragon, bird and phoenix patterns appeared the most for animal patterns. It is considered that the results of this study will be helpful for designing products for Korean fashion brands that will advance to the Chinese market. In addition, it will help Chinese designers apply the Chinese-style design characteristics popular among people throughout the world when they advance to the West.

• 복식
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• 제59권8호
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• pp.132-151
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• 2009

All of 132 kinds of fabrics are used in excavated costume from the Dongrae Jung's Tomb. Classified by its materials, it is divided into small groups as follows: 58 pieces of silk tabby 43.9%, 2 of filament silk tabby 1.5%, 14 of thin filament silk tabby 10.6%, 19 of spun yarn silk 14.4%, 4 of twill without a pattern 3.0%, 8 of patterned silk tabby 6.1%, 23 of satin damask 17.4%, 1 of damask with supplementary gold thread 0.8%, 2 of mixture fabric with silk and cotton 1.5%, and 1 of ramie fabric 0.8%. Classified by ways of weaving: 96 pieces of plain weave 73%, 23 of satin weave 17%, 8 of patterned silk tabby consisting of plain weave material and twill weave pattern-6%, 4 of twill weave 3%, and 1 of compound weave 1 %. In point of patterns, the most often used ones are plant patterns such as lotus patterns, peony patterns, plum blossom patterns, flowers representing seasons patterns, and small flower patterns. For animal patterns, it has phoenix patterns designed together with flowers representing seasons patterns. And for natural scenery patterns, it shows cloud patterns with treasures patterns together. For object patterns, it also shows treasures patterns mixed with cloud or lotus together. For geometrical patterns, it has rhomboid patterns and 卍 character patterns; some show only rhomboid patterns and others show material patterns of 卍 character patterns blended together with fruit, lotus, etc.

• 한국의상디자인학회지
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• 제24권2호
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• pp.131-146
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• 2022

The purpose of this study is to implement the textile design applying the floral pattern shown in Korean traditional fabrics and the New-Hanbok Chulic Dress in 3D through a virtual fitting system. As a research method, first, we analyzed the floral pattern types of fabrics in the literature related to traditional Korean textiles. Second, we developed textile designs of traditional flower motifs using 13 extracted flower types. Third, we applied the floral textile designs to the 3D original form of new-Hanbok Dress produced based on design preference survey results. The findings derived through this study are as follows. First, among Korean traditional patterns, the type of flowers used in textiles were blossom of chrysanthemum, orchid, camellia, apricot, peony, peach, pomegranate, hydrangea, narcissus, lotus, plum, chinese rose, and rosa rugosa. Second, this study found that the value of traditional culture can be further increased by using traditional flower patterns as an infinite source of creative design. Third, it was confirmed that the new-Hanbok can be developed endlessly as a clothing design that combines various morphological modifications and patterns without departing from traditional designs. In the future, if the research on costume design using various items of traditional clothing and the development of textile designs based on traditional culture continues, the development of new clothes design that leads to the development of Korean traditional clothing culture and meets the sensibilities of modern people will be endless.

• 헤리티지:역사와 과학
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• 제49권3호
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• pp.32-51
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• 2016

한국고전번역원 DB자료에 근거하여 전통주택 관련 '집경제영시(集景題詠詩)'를 통해 본 정원의 식물요소와 상징성, 그리고 조경문화를 추적한 연구결과는 다음과 같다. 첫째, '집경제영시'는 고려중기에 유입되어 지속적으로 창작되었는데, 주로 문신의 길을 택한 상류계층에 의해 향유되었다. 총 165책에서 주택정원을 대상으로 25책의 33제영시가 추출되었는데, 최초로 관련 제영시를 남긴 인물은 고려후기의 문신 이규보(1168~1241)로 판단된다. 그는 '퇴식재팔영', '가분중육영', 그리고 '가포육영' 등 경물소재의 확장과 영물시를 팔경시로 대입하여 향유문화의 다양화에 기여한 최초의 인물이라 하겠다. 둘째, 제영시 표제는 사랑채 당호가 많이 활용되었으며, 경물은 8영(詠)이 전체 33개소 중 19개소(57.5%)였으며, 4영, 6영, 10영, 14영, 15영, 16영, 36영 등의 빈도순으로 제영되었다. 제영에는 소상팔경류의 전형성을 벗어나 (1)경물명 중심 (2)지명과 경관명의 결합 (3)경관명 중심으로 차별화 되는 양상을 보인다. 셋째, 소표제는 (1)자연 및 정원식물 중심의 자연경관소재(22개소, 66.7%)가 주를 이루었고 (2)사랑채 건물 및 연못과 정자 등 조경시설 중심의 인문경관소재(3개소) (3)자연 속에서 행해지는 인간의 행위요소 중심의 복합 문화경관소재(8개소) 유형으로 구분된다. 이러한 양상은 정원식물의 심미적 취향, 실경을 뛰어넘어 관념화된 경물을 향유하며 주목받지 못했던 채소류와 약초류에도 관심을 두는 정감 표출로 이어진다. 넷째, 정원식물은 상록수(4종)에 비해 낙엽수의 개체수(17종) 비중(80.9%)이 월등히 높았다. 이러한 양상은 서유구(1764~1845)의 '임원경제지'에 수록된 상록수 18종(21.2%) : 낙엽수 67종(78.8%)의 비율, 그리고 선행연구[변우혁(1976), 정동오(1977), 이선(2006) 등]와 유사한 결과이다. 다섯째, 정원식물의 출현빈도는 매화(14회), 대나무(14회), 소나무(11회), 연(11회), 국화 10회, 버드나무(5회), 석류(4회), 단풍나무(3회), 오동나무, 배롱나무, 밤나무, 모란, 파초, 갈대, 맨드라미(각각 2회) 등이었다. 즉, 의미론적으로 (1)유교적 규범(소나무, 측백, 매화, 국화, 대나무, 연꽃 등) (2)안빈낙도의 생활철학(국화, 버드나무) (3)은일사상과 태평성대 희구(오동나무, 대나무 등) 관련 상징식물의 도입이 상대적으로 높은 출현빈도를 보였다. 여섯째, 안뜰과 바깥뜰, 채원과 약포, 그리고 사랑뜰 화분에 도입된 식물류 추적이 가능하였다. 즉, 안뜰에는 심미적 취향을 뛰어넘어 문화경관으로 승화시킨 상징식물의 도입, 채원과 약포에는 채소류, 과실수, 약용식물의 이용후생적 도입 양상이 뚜렷하며, 사랑뜰에 화분을 놓아 완상한 석창포, 석류화, 서상화, 국화, 대나무, 연꽃, 매화 등을 도출할 수 있었다. 일곱째, 정자, 연못, 계류, 분경(盆景), 괴석, 후원(後園), 과원(菓園), 약포(藥圃), 화오(花塢), 국리(菊籬), 범주(泛舟), 조어(釣魚), 계음(?飮), 탁족, 간화(看花), 행림(杏林), 도원(桃源), 무송(撫松), 설중매, 상국(霜菊) 등의 시어(詩語)를 통해 조경소재와 관련한 정원 문화의 향유 양상을 추적할 수 있었다.

• 헤리티지:역사와 과학
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• 제56권1호
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• pp.182-205
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• 2023

1795년 화성 행차를 정리한 『원행을묘정리의궤』에서 도식과 기록을 통해 왕실 채화의 용도와 사용방법이 비로소 체계적으로 정리되었다는 것을 알게 되었다. 봉수당 진찬에 사용된 채화의 용도를 구분하고 형태, 사용자, 사용방법을 고찰한 결과는 다음과 같다. 조선시대 채화 기록을 고찰한 결과 전기에는 금·은·견사 등의 고급 재료로 만들었으나, 후기에는 재료에서 종이의 비중이 높았다. 채화의 척도는 예기척 28.4cm를 적용하였다. 채화의 용도는 관모를 장식하는 수공화(首拱花), 공간을 장식하는 준화(樽花), 잔칫상을 장식하는 상화(床花)로 구분되었다. 사권화(絲圈花)는 왕실 구성원의 수공화인데, 상품(上品)의 것을 어잠사권화(御簪絲圈花)라 하였다. 봉수당 진찬에서 정조와 혜경궁이 어잠사권화를 사용했고, 관모의 오른쪽에 꽂았다. 백관 이하의 수공화는 홍도이지화(紅桃二枝花)가 사용되었고, 관모의 왼쪽에 꽂았다. 홍도이지화는 수공화의 가장 기본적인 형태로, 관직의 유무나 높고 낮음에 따른 차등이 없었다. 악공과 여령의 수공화는 백관 이하의 수공화보다 비싸고 화려했다. 정재에 따라 관모에 수공화를 여러 개 꽂기도 하였다. 준화는 2개의 용준(龍樽)에 홍도화와 벽도화를 꽂아서 2개의 주칠한 아가상(阿架床)에 각각 올렸다. 아가상과 용준을 홍색 무명 얼기로 서로 묶어서 준화가 넘어지지 않도록 고정하였다. 정조·혜경궁·군주들만 사용한 상화는 대수파련, 중수파련, 목단화, 월계화, 사계화, '별(別)'자가 붙은 홍도화 등이었다. 내빈과 신하들이 사용한 상화는 소수파련과 홍도화였다. 봉수당 진찬에서 수공화·준화·상화에 가장 많이 사용된 것은 복숭화꽃[도화(桃花)]으로, 복숭아는 장수와 벽사의 의미가 있었다. 그 외에 사용된 여러 종류의 꽃과 문양은 길상적인 의미였다. 이상의 연구 결과가 정조대 채화의 용도별 특징과 사용방법에 관해서 이해하고, 궁중잔치 재현행사와 전통문화콘텐츠 및 궁중채화 제작에 도움이 될 것으로 기대한다.