• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.32 no.5
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• pp.846-858
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• 2008

This study was designed to propose a method to draft bodice block pattern from 3D body scan data. Subjects were ten elderly women in their 60's, who wear basic size(B: 94cm, W: 82cm) garment. Scanning was done using 3D whole body scanner(WB4, Cyberware). Measurements for 3D data and cross section were attained using Auto CAD, by which a upper bodice pattern for elderly women was drawn on the basis of short measured method. The results are as following: As for most items, no significant differences were shown between measurements from Martin's anthropometry and those from 3D scan data, suggesting measurement from 3D scan data could be used to draft a pattern. The drafting equations acquired were as follows; width of pattern=B/2+5.5, width of waist=W/2+3.5cm, dart amount=8cm. Dart distributions were 23%(B.P.) : 20%(front armpit) : 17%(side seam) : 18%(back armpit) : 15%(back protruded point) : 7% (center back line). Through wearing test using 5-point Likert scale, resultant pattern was evaluated as appropriate for elderly women's pattern to get over 4 point. As a result, it might be said that 3D scanning application is effective for elderly women in that it doesn't take time so much as Martin's anthropometry and that their body shape vary compared with those of young women.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.18 no.6
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• pp.116-136
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• 2014

The purpose of this study was to select patterns for slim fit pants, for the following main research, to develop new pants patterns that are suitable and preferable for men in their 20s. We compared and analyzed the patterns of which are currently in the market. We compared 10 different slim pants pattern drafting and analyzed their differences. Then, we examined their appearances and functionalities thru a male model test fitting 10 different samples of the pants. The conclusions of the research results were as follows. We listed the patterns in the following order based on the numbers of items each pattern has, which are statistically considerable for the evaluation to the optimum satisfactory level among the total of 35 testing categories: J > B=I > F=H > A > C=G > D > E. In the functionality test of the pants, we found that it was too tight around the waist and abdomen area with Pattern D, where-as it was too loose around the waist with Pattern C:,-, yet, both of the patterns indicated that it is a good fit in over-all. Therefore, we chose Pattern E, D, C, and G as the existing pants patterns that could be used for further research and for educational purposes to develop a slim pants pattern for men in their 20s.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.10 no.6
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• pp.709-717
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• 2002

In the apparel industry, the technology has been advanced rapidly. The use of 3D scanning systems fur the capture and measurement of human body is becoming common place. Three dimensional digital image can be used for design, inspection, reproduction of physical objects. The purpose of this study is to develop a method that drafts men's basic bodice pattern from scanned 3D body surface shape data. In order to pursue this purpose the researchers developed pattern drafting algorithm. The 3D scanner used in this study was Cyberware Whole Body Scanner WB-4. The bodice pattern drafting algorithm from 3D body surface shape data developed in this study is as follows. First, convert geometric 3D body surface data to 3D polygonal mesh data. Second, develop algorithm to lay out 3D polygonal patches onto a plane using Auto Lisp program. The polygon meshes are coplanar, and the individual mesh is continuously in contact with next one The bodice front surface shape data in polygonal patches form was lined up in bust and waist levels. The back bodice was drafted by lining up the polygonal mesh in scapula, chest, and waist levels. in the drafts, gaps between polygons were formed into the darts.

• Journal of the Korean Home Economics Association
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• v.32 no.2
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• pp.219-230
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• 1994

The purpose of this comparative research is to investigate the change of the drafting method of the basic patterns for women in Korea. Followings were the findings of this research: 1) The concept of the basic pattern could be found after the first of the 1950s and there was introduction of the many basic patterns. At first measurement couldn't be found. Gradually the personal body type could be expressed in the basic pattern through the practical measurements such as the width of highest bust level and the length of neck to bust. 2) Through the ages the changes of the basic patterns were between 1950,60s and 1980,90s distinctively at the back width back shoulder angle front and back shoulder height from biceps line back neck ratio(height/width) BP position at the biceps line the amounts of underarm dart underarm dart position from the biceps lines and front ease angle at BP line. 3) 4 Grouping the types of the basic pattern followings are their characters; 1st Munwha or Doreme style 2nd waist dart group 3rd underarm dart and rectangular front ease 4th the usage of many measurements like as front length upper bust girth etc.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.45 no.6
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• pp.986-1003
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• 2021

This study was conducted to develop a basic pants pattern reflecting the average body shape of Chinese women in their 20s by using a virtual fitting method. A formula for the research pattern was derived by applying the measured value based on the drafting method of existing patterns. The final pattern was presented through two actual fitting processes. The suitability of the final pattern was then verified through a functional evaluation and an appearance evaluation based on an actual fitting and a virtual fitting. As a result of the evaluations, the final pattern reflected the body shape of Chinese women in their 20s and was evaluated as a higher quality pattern compared to existing patterns. The final pattern was based on the omphalion waist circumference. Ease amounts were set to be the omphalion waist circumference + 1.0 cm, hip circumference + 2.0 cm, and the pants length was set to 94 cm.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.31 no.4 s.163
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• pp.633-645
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• 2007

The purpose of this study is to develop brassiere patterns which are both fitting and functional for women aged 19 to 24(the 1924 generation). We suggested a 'size chart for body measurements' for constructing basic brassiere patterns with six sizes of '70, 75', 'AA, A, B cups', which are used most frequently by the 1924 generation consumers. The scope of research was in reference to the statistical analysis results of the Size Korea(2004) body measurements and the results of the data from the preceding research. The 'drafting method for constructing basic brassiere patterns for the 1924 generation consumers' was completed by selecting a total of 18 subjects, 3 for each six sizes in the scope of research, and three wearing tests were carried out with the subjects. We compiled one brassiere pattern in six sizes obtained with the drafting method of constructing a basic brassiere pattern on another by block pattern in order to observe the phase of change in dimensions and shapes of paper pattern. The result was converted into the variations of a x-axis and a y-axis, and we suggested 'Size Grading Rule' and 'Cup Grading Rule' for the basic brassiere patterns. As the results of the wearing evaluation of the basic brassieres and measuring the variation in body dimensions by wearing brassieres, the dimensions and shapes of the basic brassieres suggested in this research proved to be fitting and to have a wearing effect that brings together and supports the breasts.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.22 no.4
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• pp.30-46
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• 2018

The purpose of the study was to suggest certain measurements of the skirt block pattern drafting process for the Korean female fashion models, with the aim to improve its fit. For this purpose, the study carried out an analysis of the lower body features of a dress form developed for the study. This form was representative of Korean female fashion models' body features. The study performed a cross-sectional analysis at waist and hip levels and measured the angles from the frontal and lateral silhouettes of the dress forms. The comparisons of the skirt block patterns developed through draping by the use of 2 types of the dress forms developed and existed and through drafting according to the current patternmaking method have led to noticeable findings in terms of implementation of the skirt block drafting process for the Korean female fashion models. The results of the study are as follows: (1) the vertical lengths between the levels at the front waist point and the side waist point in the patterns are 0.7cm; (2) the vertical length between the levels at the front waist point and the back waist point in the back panel is 0.7cm; (3) the horizontal lengths between the perpendicular line from the side hip point and the side waist point in patterns are within a range of 2.0 to 2.2cm; (4) the horizontal length between the original and the adjusted back waist points moved into the waist line, in a range of 0.0 to 1.0cm, differs whether the center back line would be folded or sewn.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.12 no.3
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• pp.415-428
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• 2004

The purpose of this thesis was to develop torso patterns according to the physical types of men in 20s. The procedure and results are as follows; 1. Of the men in 20s meeting the national average of physique, 4 men were selected and classified into 2 physical types according to their chest and waist circumference drops. One group had 20㎝ drop (Y type) while the other had 16㎝ drop (N type). Through evaluation performed by clothing construction professionals on the 4 upper bodice blocks drafted according to the existent drafting method and dressed on the 4 men, several problems have been found. These problems were adjusted and supplemented to make two new blocks. The fit of the new blocks were evaluated and proved to be satisfactory. 2. The following is the adjustments made to the existent men's torso patterns which had been utilized as the objects the first evaluation experiment. ① Though the back waist length of the pattern from the existent drafting method covered the center back length of the body in both Y type and N type, the front length did not causing it to stand away from the body. To adjust this, 2.0㎝ has been added to the center front length of each pattern so that the waist line could make a bar level to the ground. ② The shoulder line of the pattern from the existent drafting method had the tendency to fall backward. To make the shoulder line to fall in place, it has been moved 1.0㎝ to the front. 0.5㎝ has been added to the should length. ③ The neckline had a tendency to climb up. It has been lowered by 0.5㎝ until the line touched the center front neck point. ④ Though different in degree, the neck circumference did not allow enough width for both physique type causing the neckline to pull at side neck point with diagonal crease. To adjust this, 0.3㎝ and 0.6㎝ has been added to the Y type and N type respectively so that the neckline would touch the side neck point and the neckline could naturally fall into its original position. ⑤ Though different in degree, there was not enough space at the armhole causing wrinkles around this area. Therefore, 0.25㎝ and 0.5㎝ has been added to the front and back of the armholes of the Y and N types respectively. The armhole was made 1.0㎝ deeper only for the N type. ⑥ 1.0㎝ in the front and 0.5㎝ in the back were added to the side scam for the Y type while 0.5㎝ in the front and 0.25㎝ in the back were added for N type. This eliminated the unwanted wrinkles to give the silhouette a smooth look.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.12 no.3 s.28
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• pp.319-331
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• 1988

The purpose of this study was to develop a computer program for pattern making of women's Dooroomaky. The following results were given through utilizing the Computer in pattern making of Dooroomaky for women. 1. Computerization of the pattern making process was expected to provide higher accuracy and efficiency in pattern making. 2. Basic pattern was drafted by the hand-operation. In this study, this Dooroomaky basic pattern was selected. And a computer program for drafting was developed. Refer to