• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.13 no.6
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• pp.934-942
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• 2011

This study was intended to analyze conventional grading increments and methods for middle-age men's pants, and to suggest new grading guidelines that will enable to improve satisfaction with size and silhouette as a result of combining the concept of grading, which help maintain the ratio and proportion by sizes as one of ready-made apparel's advantages, with body form oriented and aesthetic approaches. In the apparel industry, the current sizing specifications and methods adopted by relevant companies, as well as the characteristics of body forms of men aged 35 to 55 years were comparatively analyzed to find out problems and ultimately to suggest their solutions or improvements. It was considered that as the conventional grading practices used in the industry were customary on the basis of the past experiences, it was required to take the body forms of target consumers into account and also, to reconsider the conventional grading methods. Analyses of sizing and specifications by brands show that 4 to 19 sizes including 82 or 84 as standard size have been produced. Since men's apparel has a large number of sizes with the large range of sizes, grading is critically important. As silhouettes depend on the distribution of grading rule values at each point of increment pattern in the main regions during grading, it is necessary to consider both size grading and form variations. To maintain an appropriate silhouette with keeping the angle of center back line of a pattern, it is desirable to set the ratio of side line part to center part from the crease line to approximately 3:7. It is required to diversify the values of grading rules according to different sizes and pattern regions in consideration for the body forms of key consumers. In addition, if the natural lines of designs and patterns for the width increments of waist circumference and hip circumference, the increments of hip width in pant's front and back panels, the ratio of grading rule values of the right and left sides of crease line, knee circumference, thigh circumference and so on are taken into account, grading will be satisfactory in the all aspects of size, silhouette and ratio.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.4 no.3
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• pp.55-64
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• 2002

The purpose of this study is to review the grading practices and size systems of women's apparel industry in Korea and thereby, analyze the grading problems to find their solutions. Compared with other pattern producing processes, the working principles and methods of grading seem to be consistent, repeatable and stable. Therefore, if the grading deviation setting and working method should be standardized and systematized, it is much easier to automate the grading work than other pattern works. Nevertheless, it was found through this study that grading deviation setting or its application depending on body forms or age groups is not systematic. Moreover, since size identifications, basic sizes or intervals differ among apparel businesses, consumers may be confused in selection of the apparels fitting their body forms. Thus, it is deemed necessary to precisely analyze consumers' body sizes and determine on grading gains or losses in consideration of the body forms.

• The Journal of Natural Sciences
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• v.10 no.1
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• pp.141-151
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• 1998

The purpose of this study was to suggest the skirt grading rule for different somatotypes. For this study 9 subjects were classified three types according to the shape of front hips such as diamond, standard, heart. Skirts pattern were made by Moonwha grading method for traditional grading rule. For each somatotypes, skirt pattern were graded by new grading rule. The sensory evaluations were practiced for appearance and function. At the result, comparing between the new grading rule and traditional grading rule, new grading rule was fitter than the traditional grading rule. And diamond type was distinctively better than the other somatotype at sensory evaluation appearance. For pattern making of diamond type it had better use the new grading rule that was considered the characteristics of body shape.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.20 no.4
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• pp.153-171
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• 2016

With the advent of smart clothing for health care and sports, the sophisticated designs with curved seams are drawing attention. One of the problems in those clothing is to determine the design curves in 2D pattern, such that it corresponds to the lines on the intended 3D body. Moreover, the difficulty increases when the original pattern needs to be changed for various sizes and body types. We compare two methods of pattern enlargement in this paper: one is the offset/projection type, and the other is the split grading type. For the enlarged pattern with offset/projection type, the 3D surface offset was first adopted to transform the standard lower body to the target larger size; next, the design lines were projected to the new 3D surface, following which the 3D pattern was developed from the newly transformed 3D surface. In the second method, the enlarged pant patterns were developed by the split grading method. Here, a 3D pattern was developed from the initial body, and then enlarged to the target size by the conventional split grading method. Two feminine pants patterns were examined by 3D virtual fitting. We observed that the 3D offset/projection pants pattern was well fitted, having an evenly distributed surplus, as compared with the sample developed using the split grading method. The difference between the two patterns were apparent at the location where several curved lines merged.

• Journal of the Korean Home Economics Association
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• v.34 no.4
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• pp.217-226
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• 1996

The purpose of this study is to investigate the better grading methods. Iresearch into the aspects of change in each body division, using the body surface shell. And Icalculate the amount of change in each body division, measuring the bodies of 40 females. The result of this study are as follows ; 1. According to the grading sizes, the aspects of change in each body division are irregular. 2. According to the grading sizes, the amounts of change in each body division are different. 3. According to the grading sizes, the amounts of change in each body division are showed in .

• The Journal of the Convergence on Culture Technology
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• v.6 no.3
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• pp.205-210
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• 2020

The purpose of this study is to propose grading increments chart for women's bodice sloper in their 20s in order to increase consumer satisfaction with apparel products. The selected bodice sloper is a compromise between the German Müller bodice sloper and the Japanese Munhwa bodice sloper. Based on National Standards Position Survey data, the main dimension average for women in their 20s was set. The grading increments was set at the grading deviation application area in bodyboard and sleeve. Thereafter grading was done and the suitability of the graded pattern was checked.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.20
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• pp.49-62
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• 1993

The purpose of this research was to utilize of Pattern Design System(P.D.S) by using AM-300 The conclusion were like these : 1. A coat of basic pattern was selected by design sketch. 2. The basic pattern was input into computer by digitizing. 3. The basic pattern was change into designed shape by using various skills. This system were enabled to draw straight lines, curves, delete lines, sections of lines, extend lines, cut pattern into sections, measure line or section reproduce whole pattern shape of section, rotate and mirror pattern and complete patterns. 4. Automatic grading of finished master pattern have been developed by creation and modification of grading rules of basic pattern. 5. Production pattern added seam allowance, not-ches was generated by P.D.S menu option. 6. Finished pattern design was plotted out 100% and 20% size by AM-300 Plotter. This results will be the basic materials to develop the CAD SYSTEM if some problems were improve. Furthermore, the utilization of P.D.S is expected to be developing in pattern making process.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.18 no.1
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• pp.43-56
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• 1994

The Purpose of this study was to utilize of CAD System in pattern making process for women's apparel. The automation by the use of CAD System provides the higher accuracy and efficiency in pattern making process. AccuMark 300 System was used. for .this study. The results from this study were as follows . 1. New size spec chart and grading pitch chart were developed based on the data analysis and fitting tests for female college students. 2. New jacket block was developed based on the torso length sloper 3. Automatic grading of jacket block have been developed by creation and modification of grading rules of block pattern. 4. Pattern Design Systyem(P/D/S) were enabled to be constructed directly form a block pattern by modifications to existing styled pattern. 5. Original master pattern was generated by P/D/S menu option. 6. Production pattem added seam allowance, notchs was generated by P/D/S menu option. 7 Interative maker making process have enabled to save a wide range of time and space. 8. Measurement of garment by P/D/S measuring tools is to utilize in garment costing, quality control.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.22
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• pp.345-356
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• 1994

The Shirts Blouse was produced through the process of shirts Blouse pattern making by utilizing CAD System developed by PAD Sys-tem Techologies Co. Ltd that is suitable to educational use or industrial use. The purpose of this study was to provide the basic data for the development of efficient and various design patterns by applying this pro-cess to the actual business of apparel making. The results were as follows: 1. The applicable range of CAD system 1) The repeated work can be avoided by thansforming and developing the basic pattern stored and the storage and remodification were easy. 2) The deletion duplication movement and copy of all points and lines in the pattern can be made freely and measurement of all lengths and angles the attachment of two patterns were possible. 3) The grading Library of the basic pattern was applied as it was and the time was curtailed by adding only several grading points with the change of design. 2. The problem in the use of the CAD System 1) Through the input of basic pattern by the digitizer the minute size difference was generated as each point on the curve came to be designated. 3) In grading the line of neck girth there was inconveniences to go to the plan view in order find out deviation.

• Journal of the Korean Home Economics Association
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• v.20 no.2
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• pp.73-84
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• 1982

The purpose of this study was to develop a basic bodice pattern and establish standards regrading to the size and grading of Korean misses' measurements in order to provide modern data for the ready-to-wear garment industry. 222 girls, aged from 18 to 27, were measured on 19 items of their structure. Mean, standard deviation, coefficient of variance, maximum, minimum, range and correlation coefficient between each items were analized. The analysis revealed the following significant results. The fundamental difference data of the bodice pattern and grading measurements between the year of 1975 and 1981 were as follow. (1) The measurements of bust and center back were used as a foundation to establish a standard size and grading. (2) Ranges of the bust circumference measurements were increased. Thus the sizes ere classfied into 5 groups. (3) The ease of bust circumference was increased due to the increasement of shoulder width. (4) The increase of the upper arm resulted to lower the bust line. (5) The shoulder slopes were higher than 1975. Therefore, the basic measurements of the shoulder slopes were reduced. (6) In spite of the front neck measurements were not changed, the back measurements were requied to increase. (7) the center front length became much shorter in the contrast with the increase of the center back length.