• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.5 no.3
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• pp.25-36
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• 2003

The purpose of this study is to analyze the expressive technique of grunge look in knitwear fashion. For this study, I have investigated theories of retro and decontructionism trends, and have examined pictures from professional fashion magazines. The results of study on the expressive technique of grunge look reflected on the knitwear fashion were as follows; (1) patchwork technique, which is an outstanding method of recycling, (2) handknitting technique, which came from retro trend of hippism, (3) unfinished edge, which emphasized the image of poverty and incompleteness, (4) irregular lace knitting and slash technique, which is the typical details of grunge look and denies the traditional fashion order, (5) hand stitch technique using various materials, which gives second-hand mood of hippie look, and (6) fringe details, which originated from the unfinished edge technique.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.33 no.12
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• pp.1883-1896
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• 2009

This paper explores the use of Korean wrapping cloths (bojagi) in the late Joseon period and the types of decorations applied to them. Korean wrapping cloths called bojagi are pieces of cloths used by households of all social classes for practical purposes such as wrapping presents and covering food. In addition to the basic purposes, the making of bojagi was also an activity to express the down-to-earth wishes and the satisfaction of creation by the designer. With regard to the decorative feature of Korean wrapping cloths, five types of, patchwork, embroidered, painted, printed, and oiled-paper wrapping cloths, were examined. The patchwork wrapping cloths (jogakbo) show the frugality of Joseon women in addition to the well-developed composition skill of lines and colors. The embroidered wrapping cloths were prepared for special rituals and ceremonies such as weddings. Painted wrapping cloths were decorated with a Chinese-colors technique (called dangchae) or sometimes with black ink painting. For printed wrapping cloths, various sizes of woodblock printings and roller printings were used. Although monotone black ink was the main color applied to the printing, there was also wrapping cloths made from chintz having brilliant fast colors. Oiled-paper wrapping cloths called sikjibo were in use only for covering food. Cut-out work was employed to decorate it.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.19 no.4
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• pp.751-765
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• 2011

The purpose of this study is to apply the Trencadis images in Antony Gaudi's work to a design motive and thus provide a new concept for a knitwear design by combining double-knitted fabrics with patchwork applique, taping, stitching and quilting. This study examines the bibliographic text and precedent research related to Antony Gaudi and his works, and analyzes the historical background and formative and stylistic characteristics of Trencadis as it appeared in Gaudi's architectural works. Also this study also examines the characteristics of knitwear and knitting theory while exploring the formative elements and the combined techniques used in modern knitwear design through fashion magazines, medium images, and online sources. The results are as follows: First, Gaudi's work that applies a Trencadis technique has the characteristic of being creative, organic, and environmentally friendly. And in addition, its colorfulness inspires modern fashion design. Second, computerized knitting has been practiced in various ways and the fabrics knitted by both double-knitting jacquard and computerized knitting machines provide a new direction the creation of knitwear. A computerized knitting machine is especially effective for pictorial expression, and is suitable for showing the natural curve of the human body due to its sophistication. Third, as a result of applying a combined technique to the knitting of various fabrics, a combined or fusion design, which is a recent megatrend, is very effective for the design of knitwear while increasing its aesthetic value. Moreover, utilizing techniques that combine patchwork applique, taping, stitching and quilting will create higher value in knitwear. Lastly, with a project of applying combined techniques in the creation of knitwear, designers can become much more creative while taking their imagination much further.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.67 no.3
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• pp.133-148
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• 2017

The purpose of this paper is to develop waist coat designs that can be worn in the present day by researching design techniques and traditional waist coat forms shown on Korean patchworks called 'Jokakbo', which was commonly used in our traditional culture. By selecting patchwork as the primary motive in particular. The Bojaki, also known as deungguhli or baeguhli(背巨里), gives off a natural and vibrant color sensation. A new design that could be practically worn with modern clothing was developed by sufficiently reflecting this color sensation as well as the aesthetic quality of its geometric shape. On the basis of theoretical consideration of traditional cloth and vest, total of 7 points were designed and produced. These works contain diverse application of the traditional Bojaki and vest. The design of the Bojaki grants rhythmic sense to the side where diverse colors and formative patterns shown on the cloth can be seen as monotonous. The entire side opening of the traditional waistcoat can cover multiple sizes. Depending on the movement, the front and back naturally spreads. The vest can also be worn in layers or used as a cotton quilt depending on the season. And after minimal design alterations, it will be possible to wear the vest with diverse modern clothing due to its straight line and form.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.8 no.2
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• pp.47-59
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• 2006

The purpose of this study is to grasp the meaning of retro-fashion, to research the formative feature characteristic and aesthetic values. Retro-fashion is one of the expression of spatiotemporal-eclecticism, The formative of modern Retro-fashion are as follows: First, Retro-fashion based on spatiotemporal-eclecticism have been come from 40s, 50s, 60s, 70s, 80s style of time, and the asia, africa, middle east, latin America in region. Second, the design inspiration and technique is used more primitive crafts and decoration like handcrafted material, handmade ornaments as dyeing and embroidery of bohemian, jacqwuard pattern, oriental beads, applique, new hippie touch, patchwork, smocking, primitive button, woods, ethnic motives. Third, modern Retro-fashion is reflection of human feelings as nostalgia from the past, it supplies the sense of fashion creativity and new ideas.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.6 no.1
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• pp.25-33
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• 2004

This study is aimed at reviewing how the Orientalism trend is expressed in the modem fashion in terms of silhouette, color, materials, and detail. To this end, the geographic scope of this study is limited to China, Japan, Korea, while data are collected from fashion collections, domestic and foreign magazines since 2000's, literature, and internet sites. The results of this study can be summarized as follows: 1. Silhouette: the basic square silhouette of the Oriental traditional costume do not disturb the body movement and have an effected on design to smoothly follow the body line rather than cutting out materials into several parts or emphasize the curved body. 2. Color: due to the influence of the Oriental Zen thought, color trend seems to pursue simplicity rather than complexity, and natural aesthetics. In addition, the Oriental colorfulness shall not be ignored. 3. Materials: golden embroidered material, polished satin, jersey, tough or rough materials, etc. have used with materials of the Oriental traditional costume came into fashion. In pattern, the Orientalism trend is expressive of pattern by Chinese ink-spread technique, simple brush touch technique, cloud pattern, lotus flower pattern or dragon pattern, all of which feature the Oriental calm aesthetics or those motivated by the Oriental traditional patterns. 4. Detail: the techniques of handicrafts and manual arts such as meticulous embroidery, tassel or patchwork reflect well the Orientalism trend in the modem fashion.

• Journal of Broadcast Engineering
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• v.6 no.1
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• pp.3-12
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• 2001

Over the last few years, digital audio watermarking has become an interesting issue In many application areas, including digital broadcasting. This is primarily motivated by a need to provide copyright protection of digital audio content. Digital watermarking is a technique to embed copyright or other information int? the underlying data. Several possible audio watermarking techniques have been developed including spread spectrum watermarking, echo watermarking, phase coding, and patchwork. In this paper, we describe some requirements of digital audio watermarking as a tool for copyright protection of broadcasting content, and compare popular audio watermarking algorithms in some significant aspects.

• Korean Journal of Human Ecology
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• v.24 no.3
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• pp.407-421
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• 2015

This study examined the pixel's expression trend and nature featured in contemporary fashion, which works as a basic unit symbolizing the digital image, paying attention to its formativeness. The work through this process aimed at suggesting an opportunity for recognition about pixel image utilized as a formative component beyond its simple meaning of unit and providing the fundamental materials for usage in creative fashion design reflecting the digital emotion in the future, In research method, literature review was followed on pixel and the empirical study about its image was also performed that was found in the modern fashion. As a result, the trend in pixel has these characteristics. Its first nature lies in its plane expression. It was printed as mosaic or graphic grid image or expressed through patchwork technique. Also, rather than a certain form or figure, its unique image was emphasized according to the applied color, size, and position. Second, a stepwise pattern in pixel was applied to external format for part of clothing, eye glass and necktie, indicating some interest and wit. Third, in application to plane and external shape, the graphically modernized effect was realized, not to mention the illusive image with cubic expression. As shown, the characteristics in contemporary fashion via pixel expression were given in fantastic image, optical humor, and reflection of digital value.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.25 no.5
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• pp.694-707
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• 2017

This study analyzes the characteristics of clothes worn by the Zhuang in order to produce new fashion designs, and to propose diverse new directions in fashion design. Research was conducted using a bibliographic survey on the cultural background, characteristics, and relevant techniques of the Zhuang costume and that of minority races in China. This study deploys four styles of design for women's wear. With the inspiration of the traditional Zhuang costume, black and blue were the colors mainly used for the Zhuang people and the material was mostly denim. Denim blends in well for the contemporary facilitation of the Zhuang costume, which is known for knitting technique, fur and hemp fabric as patchwork, and embroidery works. It is appropriate to express the joyful and happy mind of Zhuang people with extraordinary colors, exaggerated silhouettes, and various decorations. Images of nature, such as the sun, mountains, rivers, water, fish etc., expressed the nature worship of the Zhuang in contemporary design, representing the simple life and peaceful mind. This research develops a new fashion design and displays the possibility for diverse design development through new insight in contemporary fashion design.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.18 no.4
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• pp.63-75
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• 2016

This study examines the organic geometry in Isabel Toledo's collections in terms of the practicality of American sportswear tradition. This study conducts literary survey combined with case analysis of Toledo's works from her debut collection in 1985 to the recent ones. The organic geometry in Toledo's designs refers to the conversion of two-dimensional garment patterns into three-dimensional garment forms with the body as a medium, which is classified into the following categories in this study. First, 'fluidity' describes Toledo's highly fluid jersey dresses which maintain consistent structures by patchwork draping and suspension technique. Second, 'reductionist structure' illustrates that simple geometric shapes such as circles and squares disappear as soon as worn on the body. Third, 'origami construction' explains folding two-dimensional fabrics into three-dimensional forms, which causes the outlines of the body to appear abstract. Toledo's designs deliver the tradition of American sportswear through the organic geometry of garment construction. Toledo's works are authentic American in the aspects that they are functional and modern; they satisfy the practical needs, prioritize the movements of wearers, pursue multi-functions, and their ornamental elements are accompanied by the construction of garments. Isabel Toledo presents designs drawing on her unwavering aesthetics while continuously developing and experimenting creative ways of garment construction.