• 복식문화연구
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• 제19권2호
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• pp.283-295
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• 2011

This study deals with the interchange with art that is contained in the works of Yves Saint Laurent, and it is disclosed through his works that modern fashion is part of expressive art while pursuing creative function as a work of art. The study has been performed on the basis of the references, the pictures of his works and interviews posted in domestic and overseas fashion magazines such as Vogue, Fashion News, Mode & Mode, Gap, Collections, etc. Regarding the scope of this study, it specifically deals with works he created from 1958 until 2002, when he announced his last collection. The results of the study show that with respect to Post-Impressionism, his works were greatly affected by van Gogh(who had used colors as active media in depicting his internal mental state) which gave birth to gorgeous and handicraft-like 'Couture-style clothes'. With respects to Fauvism, the works of Matisse also had an impact on Yves Saint Laurent, who added a sense of fauvism in his works through the use of colors, motif, or full reproduction of images from paintings. We see the influence of cubism upon Laurent when we examine his works of 'clothes with artistic value,' which utilized applique, beaded decoration, patchwork, embroidered patterns, relief-like ornaments, etc. using motif or objet much as we see in the works of Picasso and Braque, artists who expressed a new dimension of the formative arts. Laurent's use of neoplasticism, or plainness of painting, demonstrates a new formative art on the three-dimensional human body by using the works of Mondrian, which consist of black lines and primary colors, although generally Laurent's 'neoplastic'works differed from the works of Mondrian by more actively utilizing the lines and colors when designing dress and its ornament. In addition, the paintings and poems of surrealism artists and poets were directly used in the clothes or their images were sometimes borrowed. In order to express respect toward the spirit of surrealism and its artists, the human body motifs such as lips and eyes(which were frequently used by the surrealism artists) were applied to embroidery, printing and beaded decoration. Finally, being inspired by such Pop artists as Andy Warhol, Roy Lichtenstein and Tom Wesselman, Laurent further emphasized the aesthetic value of the popular consumer image in his own work, resulting in the wide recognition of the designs of Yves Saint Laurent as representing the new wave of the Pop Art school.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제8권3호
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• pp.387-410
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• 2000

The purpose of this study was to approach to the internal meanings included in the Happening and the culture of hippies, by analysing the basic mental conditions in the process of the Happening. And this study was composed of the concept and the development of Happening, the characteristics of the hippies that related in the midst of the happening's background, and the formativeness between these factors and hippies'fashion. Since the happening a genre of fine arts expression attended the New School for social research in New York in 1954, Allan Kaprow direct-influenced by John Cage used the word 'Hapening'first, practicing '18 Happenings in 6 parts'at the Rueben gallery in 1959. Kaprow's 18 Happenings was one of the earliest opportunities for a wider public to attend the live events that several artists had performed more privately for various friends. Despite the very different sensibilities and structures of artist's works, artists were all thrown together by the press under the general heading of 'Happening', following Kaprow's 18 Happenings. Being considered as the root of the Happening 'Expression of Sound'of John Cage was the discovery of the exisiting thing- the Happening. Most artists were to be deeply influenced by Cage's theories and attitudes-that is, his sympathy for Zen Buddihism and oriental philosophy-and by reports of the Black Mountain events. These events would directly reflect contemporary painting and stemmed from the Futurists, Dadaists and Surrealists. And Happening's development background was based on the culture of hippies. Swinging London had been under the sway of psychedelic drugs and utopian visions of 'hippie'wave sweeping in from Califonia. This wave, which affected solid middle-class youth first and formost, began in Haight Ashbury in San Francisco. Without dwelling on the hippie movement here, it is worth nothing that it resulted from the convergence of several undercurrents : consciousness-expending drugs, the anti-Vietnam war developments, the impact of English pop groups on American music and the rise of protest songs, and finally the beatnik tradition of non-conformism. Hippie culture and its pursuit of love, peace and psychedelia was the antitheses of 1960s main street fashion. The media gave everyone with long hair the label of 'hippie', but it was always a very loose collage of attitudes and styles. The rejection of sexual taboos was conveyed by the hippie's refusal to wear. Although the bold exposure of body raised controversies because it went against the existing moral values, it has a significant implications. Psychedelics brought mind-expansion and the possibillity that modern technology (light show, synthesized electronic sounds), new fabrics or colors, and LSD could be utilized to provide an escape route from the dreariness of modern life. During the 1960s, traditional costumes, many of which had never been seen outside their native regions, became sought after and adopted in the West, initially by the young, who wanted to demonstrate their solidarity with cultures uncontaminated by mass industry. The most ardent proponents of such folk costumes were the hippies. Hippies dress was sometimes decribed as 'anti-fashion', produced by a patchwork of ragged cast-offs and flamboyant accessories, of outmoded Western dress and time-honored ethnic garments all combined, modified and permutated into variety of personal statements. 'Flower Power'became a reality. From the results of this study, we can see the expanding trend of the influence and the concept of the sew art genre 'Happening'in the formativeness as well as the fine arts field.

• 한국식생활문화학회지
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• 제19권3호
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• pp.295-312
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• 2004

This study is to investigate the trend of researches on food and culture from 1990 to 2003. With a literary approach, this paper analyzes how many papers were published and what was the major research subject. We classified the journals published during this time into 10 different categories and we are to grasp a research trend. 1) Historical approach on the traditional food and food habit; 2) Globalization of Koran food; 3) Use and preparation for traditional food; 4) Table setting and table manner; 5) Provincial cuisine; 6) Traditional festive food or celebratory meal; 7) Religious food; 8) Fusion food; 9) Food and culture in foreign countries and food habit of Korean people living abroad; 10) Studies related with satins out. It was revealed that 268 papers(=ps) were published. Eating out was the most frequently reported subject(100 ps), followed by provincial cuisine(54 ps), use and preparation for traditional food(49 ps), food habit for foreign people and Korean people living abroad(22 ps). Researches on these 4 topics have been accelerated since the late half of 1990s. This reflects the social factors such as rapid growth of food service industry, settlement of local autonomy, popularization of leisure activities and accelerated introduction of foreign food and culture. Half of the studies on the eating out dealt with eating out behavior. And 30 papers were reports on the food service industry situations. More than half of the studies on the provincial cuisine(26 ps) were concentrated on digging out recipes. Studies on the use and preparation for traditional food were mainly about what kind of food and how often the food is used(17 ps). Kimchi was the most frequently studied food. There were 11 papers regarding food and culture in foreign countries. Most of the authors were historians or linguists. Food habit of Korean people living abroad were investigated in 7 papers. There was few studies on fusion food, table setting and table manner. This doesn't meet with increasing demand for specialized information in then fields. Researches on the traditional festive food or celebratory meal(5 ps) and religious food(9 ps) were negligible. Papers on the historical approach to the traditional food and food habit were limited(12 ps). Moreover, most of them were patchwork of existing literatures. Continuous researches to exploit the historical facts based on literary proof should be tried with patience. Otherwise, the papers will copy the hackneyed knowledge repeatedly. Globalization of Korean food means the development of Korean food for foreign people and export of them worldwide. Only 16 papers were reported on this subject, 14 of them were published after 2000, 8 of them were surveys on the foreigners' food preference. In order to get practical informations on what we develope and how we sell for the foreign customers, profound research on their food habit should be done.

• 식물분류학회지
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• 제40권4호
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• pp.274-277
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• 2010

본 연구는 개나리와 미선나무의 새로운 자생지의 보고이다. 개나리의 자생지는 경상북도 청송군 부동면에서 발견하였다. 자생지의 규모는 $5m{\times}5m$크기로 12개체가 생육 중이었으며 그 중 3개체는 7-10 cm 정도의 유묘였다. 자생지의 식생은 주로 소나무와 아까시나무가 우점하는 2차림으로 교목층의 피도는 15% 정도였으며, 관목층의 피도는 40%로 조팝나무가 우점하였다. 경상북도 의성읍에서 발견한 미선나무는 하천변에 위치하여, 전석지 혹은 돌이 많은 곳으로, 하천을 따라 15개의 패치(patch)상으로 분포하고 있다. 자생지 크기는 $50m{\times}15m$로 약 $750m^2$이며, 교목과 아교목층은 굴참나무가 우점하고, 관목층은 산팽나무가 우세하였다. 기존의 보고 및 새롭게 밝혀진 개나리와 미선나무의 자생지를 대상으로 세계자연보전연맹 종보전위원회의 적색목록 평가기준의 하나인 분포역(EoO)를 적용하여 미선나무에 대한 분포역을 검토하였다. 검토한 결과 면적$21,513Km^2$로 산출하였다.

• 패션비즈니스
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• 제1권1호
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• pp.71-83
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• 1997

The purpose of this study is to analyze the present fashion phenomenon by considering the types of street fashion, the center of avant-grade modern fashion, that shows the origination background and special feature concretely. The times was defined through the 1980's from World War II that street style originated, so the range of study was the 1990's when the street style was influenced by that of the past and was revived. The ways of study were to analyze the records of ideology, art and music connected with the street style from World War II to the present when it has risen. The summary of result is as follows. (1) In the 1940's, Zooties was the jet of desire suppressed by African-Americans that couldn't receive favors socially and economically and Hipsters pursued reformative bebop that made up of soft Jazz. In the 1950's, Modernists were running after Cool Jazz to the minimum. In the 1970's, Funk appered in the sexual desire and erotic strength, and was surfaced from Negro Getto. In the 1980's B-boys & Flygirls showed the street style by the scribble art of slum in the New York. As mentioned above, In the 1990's, Acid Jazz influenced by the Jazz of Negro has been the fashion added to the tradition of musical form that come from eclecticism of Jazz tended Neo-Jazz. (2) In the 1940's, Western style dreamed the country life because of rapid urbanization. In the 1950's, Beat obtained the feeling of liberation from the dissolute life and activity. In the 1960's, Psychedelics showed the freedom affected by the Pop-art and Op-art, and Hippies pursued the true individuality as 'love & peace' life style and the return to nature. In the 1990's, Grunge look influenced by the above has been fashion that shows the practical use of second-hand clothing or patchwork contrary to elitism. (3) In the 1940's, Caribbean style appered in the typical textile color with the center of West Indies. In the 1960's, Rude boys showed the magnificence and difficulty of Jamaica, and Rastafarians had a tendency to come back to the ancient civilization of America. In the 1970's, Two-tone was the simple clothing for harmonizing among human races. In the 1990's, Jamaica look influenced by the above has been the Lege fashion introduced to a high fashion, appearing in the special bright color, applique, unique hair style, and so on. (4) In the 1950's, Sufers pursued natural rhythm, getting out of everything. In the 1970' s, Skaters enjoyed the speed on the paved road. In the 1980's, Casuals emphasized the spirit of cooperation of young-things. In the 1990's, Casual look Influenced by the above has been the fashion that forms the activity, function and strong spirit of cooperation by pursuing comfortable life and sports in the tension of life and variety of modern society. (5) It was hard for Bikers to adjust themselves in society after the war. In the 1950's, Coffee bar cowboys were the reckless running boys in the leather jacket. In the 1960's, Rockers created the group originality as disobedient outsiders and Greasers imitated Rolling Stones. In the 1980's, Punks resisted the viewpoint of the old generation in offensive fashion. In the 1990's, Cyberpunk influenced by the above has pursued the classless structure, electronic music and metallic clothing that forebodes gloomily as the computer generation of ultra-modern science times. Accordingly, in understanding a complex modern fashion phenomenon, it was analyzed that the street styles of the past, from World War II to the 1980's, were reflected in that of the 1990's dividing into the five types in a word, namely Acid Jazz, Grunge look, Jamaica look, Casual look and Cyberpunk.