• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• 제52권8호
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• pp.55-71
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• 2002

The purpose of this study was to identify a basic meaning of humor from the costume expressing cartoon image, to grasp the status of contemporary costume, and also to supply people with a database related to the sphere of costume design. This was done by analyzing and examining humor of the costume expressing cartoon image in post-industrial society. Consequently, the result of this study was summarized as follows; First, humor by parody of Pop Art is recognized as humorous expression that repulsed the main current culture and post-industrial society phenomenon. Second, humor by quotation tends to appear through cartoon character. Costume which quote cartoon character is against Kidult tastes and the pre-existing authoritative prejudices in post-industrial society. Third, humor by bricolage, making bricolage with silhouette, color, pattern item, is recognized as new creation of humor In other words, it is regarded as enlargement of new esthetic consciousness and humor about instrumented gender in post-industrial society. Lastly, humor by deformation expressed itself in deformation of body image of character and cloth silhouette by cartoon image. Deformation of cloth silhouette by cartoon image, being not conscious pre-existing concept of harmony of human and costume, is recognized as humor which have characteristic of play with introduction of new silhouette. In addition to, the result of this study showed that humor expressed in cartoon image of costume has been limited to the works of few designers because of characteristics of fashion designers who made use of popularity as subjects of the works and internal meanings which were related to the characteristics of post-industrial society.

• Korean Institute of Interior Design Journal
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• 제24권1호
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• pp.152-159
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• 2015

Contemporary architecture is philosophy and art, and science are different that holds the architecture of human thought and behavior based on a variety of physical space. In addition, the technology is used by the new media graphics, lasers, LED, which were possible only in imagination, using tools such as the time-space of the potential for explosion. In particular, it was found in the spacial color of atypical using the nature of light. Such these architecture is space people actively experiencing a sense towards the expansion of its place. Therefore, the study purpose is to explore the Steven Holl's spacial colors to utilize the space is important to the possibility of light. He prefers the connection to the invisible world is inferred from the visible world and other space. He thoughts an idea linked to the concept watercolors which is a tool that holds to the notion of the flexibility of light and shadow. Concept watercolor is the idea space, establish space, recombinant space, and the growthy space. These have shown the no fixed spacial color cause of the combination of the different tones according to the characteristics of the mixed-color development of a concept watercolors demonstrated the spacial color of the replacement. That is to establish a parody of the works light blending spacial color.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• 제38권
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• pp.369-392
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• 1998

In order to identify and describe the central core of fashion desire, the concept of“anti-aesthetics”and“open fashion”were analyzed based on the discourses of postmodernism dis-cussed in the field of sociology, culture, art and philosophy. In this paper, first, the new perspectives of fashion related to modernism and postmodernism were proposed, open concept, anti-aesthet-ics which is ephemerality but eternal ideology. Key principles of postmodernism as anti-aess-thetics mean the philosophy of nihilism proposed by Nietzsche indeterminency, the endd of original art(the death of art), the sublimity provided by Lyotard, and the pluralism to release human from the closed way of thinking, value, ideology. Second, the old and classical definition of fashion,“the differentiation of class”proposed by Veblen and Simmel has been changed into the“differentiation of taste”in postmodern condition. Third, the dichotomous system, that is, ration vs emotion, soul vs body, male vs female, culture vs nature, and so on has been deconstructed and disolved in the postmodern fashion phenomenon using the technique of anti-formalism, such as pastich, parody, bricolage an kitsch for the expression of sublimity and freedom of human.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• 제57권10호
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• pp.1-10
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• 2007

The 21th century is the time-area where knowledge, information and culture are considered as the pivotal factor for keeping society. Thus, this affects every part which consists of culture. By 2000, various cultural changes create several culture trends all over the world. Above all, advent of CHAV is the remarkable cultural phenomenon because of its life style, fashion and self-awareness. This study analyzes CHAV's life style and fashion based on regarding it as subordinate culture. In terms of these aspects, CHAV's fashion can be divided into three parts by its inner and outer traits. The first is merrymaking style which is composed of combination, parody and excessive decoration of different factors. This is a kind of Pop-Art style that imitates mass consuming culture. The second is ostentation style which emphasizes CHAV's traits and acts group behavior. The third is violence style. CHAV tries to appear violent and indifferent for gaining their rights and power. As a result, CHAV is the rebounding phenomenon that means psychological fear and conflict which neglected people have to resist official authority.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• 제19권2호
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• pp.173-189
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• 1995

purpose of this study is to analyze the various phenomenon related to the subjectivism of aesthetic value for dress, which is impossible to describe with only functionalism, practically and objectivism of aesthetic value for dress based on Karl Rosencrantz\ulcorners theory of the Aesthetics of ugliness from the middle of 1980's to present. In other words, the ugliness had been selected and erected as the opposite meaning of beauty to head toward ultimate beauty, and clarify that ultimate beauty is achieved through the combination of beauty is achieved through the combination of beauty and ugliness. First, the ugliness and Rosencrantz\ulcorners theory of the Aesthetics of Ugliness had been examined theoretically in the aspect of the subjectivism of aesthetic value for dress and aesthetic category. The relationship between the artistic styles related to ugliness, such as Avant-garde, Primitivism of Expressionism, Grotesque, Decadence, Kitsch, Pastich\ulcornerParody, from the late 19c to present, and the dresses representing the ugly look such as Cyber Punk, Exotic look, Detester, Grunge, Hip-hop, etc, of 1990's had been studied by using photographic materials. In this study, the basic concepts of ugliness, including formlessness, inaccuracy and deformation, formed by K. Rosencrantz had been used to reveal the interaction between modem costume and the theory of ugliness.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• 제5권1호
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• pp.73-85
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• 2001

The purpose of this study is to understand what the Glam Style is, focus on the movie "Velvet Goldmine". The Glam Style is refered early 1970s Glam rockers' costume, typified by silver lurex, corksoled platform, men in make-up, personified, for example, by David Bowie, Marc Bolan, New York Dolls, Roxy Music and Iggy Pop. To approach the Glam Style comprehensively, I have divided the formative background of Glam Style into the improvement technology, the advent of the young generation and the diffusion of mass media, the rock music fever and influence on Pop art. Following is the result of analyzing of the character in the movie. First, Brian Slade has the flamboyant transsexual image by skin-tight space suit, glitter pants, lurex, satin and sequined stretch fabrics, vivid color, gauze make-up, feather boa. Second, Curt Wild expresses the outrageous sexual image by black leather jacket, emphasized black eyes make-up. Third, Mandy Slade appears the exaggerated and frivolous image by gold leopard patterned one piece, fur coat, ornamented with beads, tropical make-up, spangles and the costume jewelry. Forth, Auther Stuart has the complex image by black leather jacket, velvet jacket, skin-tight bold shirt, glitter pants, glitter make-up, silk scarf, cherry-red sunglasses. The characteristics meaning of Glam Style implied in this formative characteristic could be presented as the experimental expression of androgynous, the hordes of outrageous alien and kitsch parody.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• 제33권3호
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• pp.379-390
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• 2009

This Study is a research on symbolic meaning and artist's will of Vivienne Westwood's works which provide a new vision on woman's body and clothes. For the literary research, this study investigates theories of human's body which are phenomenal body of Merleau-Ponty's, the relations between power and body of M. Foucault's, cultural and social body of E. Goffman's and habitus of p, Bourdieu's. For the case research, Vivienne Westwood's collections are classified into each item which exaggerating and distorting woman's body such as Mini-Crini, corset, bustle cushion, bum-pad, farthingale and tailoring suits. Also she puts man's clothes item such as codpiece into woman's body. Through all of these design, she wants to reinterpret the woman's body and self-identity. Vivienne Westwood dose not leave the past just as a historic trace but recreates with her way of creation. Westwood has presented the satire which leads the parody of past in her unique ways of thinking and interpretation which mix the ideology of the past and the presents. Those make her look back the history and culture and express her esteem for self-identity of woman. Vivienne Westwood's works express woman's power and freedom in modem society.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• 제2권3호
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• pp.73-86
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• 1998

Jean-Charles de Castelbajac is gaining worldwide recognition as a designer who is not conscious of fashion and meet the desire of times. Castelbajac's works can be devided into three periods. 1. Creative challenge period. (1968~78) - His works started from creative challenge against haute-couture attract with practical design and extraordinary textile use. 2. Artistic development period. (1979~88) - He made unique ideas with the four primary colors affected by modern formative art. Pop-art clothes using cartoon or graffito were highlighted. 3. Aesthetic maturity period. (1989-now) - He received chevalier of Arts and the Letters at 1989. He was acquainted with other many designers in the world at 1990s, and his works came to mature. The aesthetic qualities in Castelbajac's works can be identified with the following themes. 1. Geometrical simplicity - Geometrical form without decoration and unnecessary lines used for the most comfortable cloth to wear and act gives an impression of explicitness and intelligence. 2. Humorous decoration - An unique idea having wit and humor shows his philosophy that must be new, vital and delightful. 3. Parody presentation - Pictures or people are reorganized 9Y work philosophy, then that get satirical and comic effects. 4. Pop-art image - Using mass communication media like a cartoon, figures, flag, graffiti, it produces clear and bright image.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• 제13권2호
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• pp.300-313
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• 2005

Hybrid trend of the 21st century is an important basis to express fashion Alexander McQueen is a representative designer of Hybrid trend which combines heterogeneous elements into oneconcept. Accordingly, this study distributed and analyzed Hybrid trend which was in Alexander McQueen's work like below. First, there was a racial Hybrid trend which combined different local culture in shared space of the world in his fashion work and he challenged to Westernized ideal beauty with new recognition and knowledge about beside countries of Western Europe which were considered as not important culture due to perceiving relative value of a pluralist society and created new way aesthetic consciousness. Second, he expressed a historical character of a combination of tradition and modern by his fashion work based on wide historical knowledge of a dress. He created a new line in contrast to the past with a perfect design through combination of the style from the tradition with the parody and displayed his own design world. Third, he treated instability and disorder from the interior essential dissolution, thus he had a cultural character which broke down the boundary of cultural genre and style. This attitude showed transformation of constructivism and deconstruction view, secession and distortion, mixture, duplication, secession and insert by his fashion work.

• Journal of the Korean Home Economics Association
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• 제46권10호
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• pp.37-48
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• 2008

This study re-examines new aesthetic values pursued by Givenchy, analyzing by the Haute Couture line's chief designers. The following conclusions have been reached: Hubert de Givenchy pursued modernity, infused with simplicity and structured stability. In particular, Audrey Hepburn, who was a loyal client and used his line in several movies, provided him the platform for international exposure which he used to further develop what became known as the "Hepburn" style. The subsequent brief tenure of John Galliano did yield the fantastic and magnificent "Galliano-style", but with irregularity. Based on romanticism, it redefined fashion using a wide range of colors, subjects and decoration. His successor, Alexander McQueen, applied opposite elements using a hybrid technique of pastiche, parody and collage. With innovative inspiration he compromised the concepts of gender, time, space and cultures and recreated futuristic forms of nature, animals, insects and mythical images. Julien Macdonald, who was appointed in 2001 as the Artistic Director for the women's collections, minimized his individual style and preferred feminine, graceful and sexy silhouettes. He breathed fresh life in to Givenchy Haute Couture, reinterpreting the Hepburn style in a modernistic mode. Being passed on the responsibility for both collections (i.e., haute couture and ready-to-wear) in 2005, Riccardo Tisci redefined elegance, combining his unique and tailored gothic style with Givenchy's grace. He is developing the future of Givenchy, experimenting with volume, silhouettes, new kinds of fabric and techniques.