• Korean Journal of Human Ecology
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• v.2 no.1
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• pp.129-141
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• 1999

The purpose of this study is to investigate the effect of historical costume style and painting on Vivienne Westwood design. For this purpose, the costume style after 16C and the rococo painting of 18C are researched. And through Westwood's recent designs, the external form and internal symbol are compared. The results of this study were as follows : 1. From Renaissance, Rococo, Crinoline, Bustle, S style were showed on Westwood design. 2. In external method, historical costume styles were expressed by silhouette, detail, costume item, textile and various cuttings. 3. In the case of painting, it focused on Rococo painting of 18C. Costumes in painting were realized or painting itself were used for textile. 4. Most of her design was cut in the round rather than in the flat, bold cutting and slash were employed. 5. These works are symbolizing the harmony of tradition and future, at the same time through the transformation of orthodox style, containing ridicule to the authority and a challenge to society as well as sex. These results let us know that Westwood is versatile to transform the history and harmonize the tradition and 20C Fashion successfully. (Korean J Human Ecology 2(1):129∼141, 1999)

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.26
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• pp.233-250
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• 1995

The purpose of this research is to open new horizon in the plastic art centering the clothings, to examine the characteristics of the clothing style of Surrealism closely which is being lighted up again newly in the recent culture that is in a state of flux, and futher to contribute to the cre-ation of future clothes by analyzing Surrealism once again which is considered to have affected most in the aspects of idea and technique from the era of modernism to the era of post modern-ism, to understand and develop the relation of modern style of paintings and clothing which consist of many complicated and diverse elements. As for the method of research, after analyzing the formation and characteristics of painting style of Surrealism, painting style of Surrealism, painting style of Surrealism were classified largely into D paysement and Automatism, which were then reviewed. And the characteristics of fashion style of Surrealism were compared and analyzed with painting style of Surrealism, for this, fashion of Surrealism dur-ing recent five years from 1990 to 1994, among the fashion from Pr t- -Porter concentrated re-view was made for the ones made public at Paris-London Collections. By the result observed through this research, the trompe-l'oeil double image technique of many clothes created by E. Schiaparelli who was strongly influenced by Surrealism in 1930s were succeeded with its inspiration of Surrealism by the radical fashion designers recently and we were able to know that it is being created again by fresh senses. Followings are the discussions on homogenity of the characteristics of fashion style of Surreal-ism with the painting style of Surrealism Therefore if we analyze the characteristics of fashion style of Surrealism, Automatism ex-pression style which takes out only image borrowing the power of unconsciousness, instead of factual transposition, is forming the main cur-rent after 1990s. We can find the fashion style of this Surrealism appear persistently, entirely irrel-evant to the silhouettes of 20th century.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.53 no.6
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• pp.11-23
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• 2003

Japonese woodblock printing has been accepted with a great curiosity at first, and it has been called as 'Japonisme' or 'Japonaiserie' in which the school of Impressionism accepted the Japanese type of art and developed it in Europe. The term of Japonisme is the concept that does not refer to one style but to the taste for Japanese painting, craft, fashion and the like in Europe proved as the historical phenomenon through Japanese works. That is, it means every Japanese disposition including all artistic techniques and contents relating to Japanese tastes in Europe. Fashion of dress as Japanese expressed in European painting works not only symbolizes the 'modernity' expressive of the aspiration and nostalgia for Japan but presents the Japan of exotic taste as the inquisitive object of sexual interest. And the expressive method of the peculiar the beauty of the body was described in Japanese painting works because of the fashion characteristics that the frontal side of Japanese clothing was presented in a more decorative and formative way than its reverse side due to decorative design and belts. It could be found that this was introduced actively into the painting works of the impressionist school. This study attempts to discuss the expressive style including the pictorial style, technique and theme shown in the accommodating process of Japanese painting in the Impressionistic school and investigate the phenomenon of Japonisme that was conducted in the western Europe. Accordingly, this study attempts to find out that clothing takes an important place as the aesthetic category of one historical point in time by investigating the Japanese clothing of the times shown in impressionist painting works and that clothing forms the stylistic characteristics and formative characteristics of painting. It could be found that dress existed not only as the instrument capable of illustrating the aesthetic attitude or will of the human being as visual identity but as plastic art and became the prime mover for reinterpreting and changing the plastic style of art frontier.

• International Journal of Advanced Culture Technology
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• v.11 no.1
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• pp.241-252
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• 2023

Watercolour painting was introduced to China over a hundred years ago, and in the last two decades, it has developed rapidly, presenting a situation of diversified development. While Western-style watercolour painting has been adopted by Chinese painters, they have also expanded on it with their own aesthetic awareness and cognitive styles. As a result, Chinese watercolour painting has developed a set of expressive techniques that highlight the cultural characteristics of the nation in terms of aesthetics, concepts and techniques, resulting in a painting style with a distinctive national personality at present. Although Chinese watercolour painting has taken on a variety of styles with the intervention of modern and contemporary art, realistic watercolour painting is still the mainstream. However, there are obvious differences between the "realism" of Chinese watercolour painting and the "realism" of Western watercolour painting in terms of expression. The most distinctive feature is the "imagery" language of expression, which is closely linked to the cultural heritage of Chinese tradition and is of great value for research. I interpret the aesthetics, composition, colour and brushwork of Chinese realistic watercolour painting from the perspective of traditional Chinese aesthetics in order to deepen the understanding of Chinese realistic watercolour painting and to provide a reference for the further development of the art of Chinese realistic watercolour painting.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.12 no.4
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• pp.115-135
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• 2010

Regarding the figure painting of the T'ang period, by Yeomipbon, a representative painter of the early T'ang period, shows a traditional painting style. Figure paintings of the Prosperous T'ang period, influenced by Odoja's painting style, are characterized as illustrating the lives of noble women delicately with brilliant colors. They include Janghwon's and in which Chinese traditional and Western painting styles were combined. , and , which were painted by Jubang in the mid T'ang period, were the developmentally succeeded the figure painting style of the previous times, illustrating even the psychological and emotional states of painted figures in a sophisticated way. Skin make-ups shown in figure paintings of the T'ang period are mostly baekjang in type. Besides, other different types of the make=up such as bihajang, dohwajang and juwoonjang can be seen. The paintings, show that the tone of skin got more and more red as the times moved from the early to the late T'ang periods because rouge was more and more used as the times passed between the periods. As a type of forehead make-up, aekhwang is found in Janghwon's and of the late T'ang period. Hwajeon is seen in lots of figure paintings made between the Prosperous the late T'ang periods. Most eyelid make-ups shown in the figure paintings are round-shaped wolmi and yuhyeopmi in type. Besides, other creative types like gyeyeopmi, paljami and iljami are found. Lips are found made up clearer and more red as the times went from the early and the late T'ang periods. The types of cheek make-up like sahong and jangyeop can't be found in figure paintings of the T'ang period.

• Human Ecology Research
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• v.53 no.1
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• pp.81-92
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• 2015

Daily dance Ganggangsullae is recommended for youth to help their diet, improve their team life and know Korean culture. Its performance costumes were fusion hanbok and casual wear shown at the Second Daily Dance Ganggangsullae Contest Conference of Myeongryang Battle Festival in 2013. A fusion hanbok shows the Korean traditional spirit, but it is not practical. Casual wear is practical, but it does not show any Korean identity. Therefore, their combination is needed to reflect the Korean identity and practicality. For this, a literature review and an online search were conducted for the history, purpose and dance motion of daily dance Ganggangsullae. And photographs of participating teams were gathered from Jeonnam Information & Culture Industry Promotion Agency. Goguryeo costumes were used for design motifs. Four designs were sets of T-shirts and pants for the summer. Style 1 is designed using sam, jikryeong, go, round and triangle pattern with rippled cotton. Colors were from Wang Huiji's mural painting. Style 2 is designed using dansuui, beonryeong, go, round and quadrangle patterns with rippled cotton. Colors were from a Deokheungri mural painting. Style 3 is designed using sam, round ryeong, go, quadrangle patterns, prints with cotton jersey and denim. Colors were from a Gamsinchong mural painting. Style 4 is designed using dansuui, jikryeong, go, a flame pattern, a bow and arrow shape with cotton, knit and jersey. Colors were from a Muyongchong mural painting. This study is helpful to anyone who wants to develop Korean-style performance costumes.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.5 no.5
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• pp.481-494
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• 2003

The Gamrotenghwa of the Choson Dynasty is a unique genre of buddhist painting in that the destiny of the dead souls and the guidance to nirvana are expressed in reality. More than 50 of the Gamrotenghwa are known to be present, and the lower part of the paintings includes a wide assortment of folk customary scenes reflecting the social life style of the time when the painting was drawn, such as difficulties in life. public life, punishment and war. Changes in the costume of the people shown on the customary scenes of the Gamrotenghwa according to the time based changes in painting style were investigated in this study. The results are summarized in three points. First, the costumes of bureaucrats showed a tendency of preservation without any major changes in the painting. On the other hand, costumes of public and entertainer in the scenes were very close to those worn by the people at that time. The realistic description of public life in the painting may establish the value of the Gamrotenghwa as the historical documents. Second, the costume of the people in the painting showed a dual structure as the social positions; bureaucrats wore various official hats, large coats and belts to expose their social prestige. while the general public wore simple and convenient clothing which is divided into shirt and pants. The dual structure of the costume in the painting is in well accordance with that of the later period of Choson dynasty, suggesting that the customary scenes in the painting represent the social life style of the period. Finally, the customary scenes in the Gamrotenghwa are very variegated. which shows a variety of beauty of wearing even though they look coarse in a sense. The diversity of wearing beauty in the picture may contribute to the recreation of the beauty of shape in the new design of Hanbok.

• Journal of Korean Society of Archives and Records Management
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• v.1 no.2
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• pp.159-183
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• 2001

The praying sentences of the script of Saddharmapundarika-sutra NO.5 which was made by prayer Bang-Ui, prince Ik-An, was investigated and the cover painting, Byonsangwha(Buddha's preaching painting), and letter style written in the script were discussed in this study. The cover painting on the script is known to be followed to the style of the cover painting as shown in a set of 7 rolls of Saddharma pundarika-sutra of the Horim Museum collection. It is not so difficult to say that the characteristics of cover painting of the script would be suceeded to those of scripts of the end of Koryo and the early Choseon Dynasty. Lotus and its surround was decorated with arabesque figure whose stems were drawn with golden paste and the arabesque figures were done with silver paste. However, for the expression of lotus and arabesque pattern the special feature of drawing style that was originated from the end of Koryo Dynasty to draw the outline with broad line and/or the hardness of drawing line became much more deepened than ever. It is not different to think that this characteristics should be those of Choseon Dynasty. On the Byeonsangwha(buddha's preaching painting) the painting of scattered flowers on stairs of Sumera-Mandala and the scheduled clouds (underseen from heaven) were as similar as to the Byeonsangwha style of the end of Koryo and the early Choseon Dynasty. However, the image of Shakyamuni and/or the halo(光背) is nearly same as the characteristics shown on the Beonsangwha of Saddharma pundarika-sutra of Nesosa' collection, a set of seven rolls which was completed in the 15th year of king Taejong(AD 1415). It is apparent that these characteristics are those of Choseon Dynasty. After king Chungsean in Koryo Dynasty, letter style of Chao Meng-Fu was shown in the script of late Koryo Dynasty as a new letter style.

• Korean Journal of Heritage: History & Science
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• v.42 no.4
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• pp.112-131
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• 2009

The Trikaya Banner Painting in the Suta-sa Temple at Hongcheon-gun, Gangwon-do draws attention as it was painted not on flax but on paper, and used the water color painting technique on the sketch rather than the deep color painting technique, which is most common in Buddhist paintings created during the Chosun Dynasty. Nevertheless, there is not any information on the creation of the Trikaya Banner Painting in the painting record on the painting, in Sutasasajeok(壽陀寺史蹟), or in Sutasagogirok(壽陀寺古記錄), so it is uncertain when the painting was created. Furthermore, because it was not drawn by the deep color painting technique, it has been difficult to compare it with other banner paintings. For these reasons, the Trikaya Banner Painting has been studied little except brief introduction. In recent preservation treatment that removed multiple-layered paper from the back of the painting, however, an inked inscription written on Korean paper 118cm high and 87.5cm wide was discovered on the back. It is a kind of placard notifying a number of acts prohibited in order to follow Buddha's teachings correctly, and was found to have been written on April 15, 1690. The inked inscription is a very valuable material for estimating the creation date of the Suta-sa Trikaya Banner Painting, and provides crucial clues for approaching the contents and nature of the painting more precisely. When the image, form, and style of the Suta-sa Trikaya Banner Painting were examined and its creation date was estimated based on the inked inscription, first, the painting is presumed to have been created in around 1690 as suggested by 'the placard' attached on the back instead of a painting record. Second, the painting is highly likely to be the first standing Trikaya banner painting showing the basic icons of Trikaya banner paintings in the Chosun Dynasty since the Trikaya Banner Painting in the Gap-sa Temple in Gongju (1650). Furthermore, considering the shape of the Trikaya in the painting, screen composition, background treatment, solemn and affectionate facial expression, harmonious and adequate body proportion, etc., the painting is believed to have had a considerable influence not only on Trikaya banner paintings of similar style in the 18thcentury but also on deep-color Trikaya banner paintings in the 19thcentury. Third, although the Suta-sa Trikaya Banner Painting is not acompleted work but a sketch, it exhibits the typical water color painting technique in which the strokes are clearly visible. Thus, it is considered highly valuable in understanding and analyzing stroke styles and in studying the history of Buddhist paintings. As there are not many extant banner paintings of the same style in form and expression technique as the Suta-sa Temple Trikaya Banner Painting, this study could not make thorough comparative analysis of the work, but still it is meaningful in that it laid the ground for research on standing Trikaya banner paintings in the 18thand 19thcenturies in the Chosun Dynasty.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Fashion and Beauty
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• v.5 no.3
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• pp.92-98
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• 2007

This study analyzes the women's hair style and costume in late Chosun Dynasty appeared in Shin Yoon Bok' genre painting. Conclusions are as follows; First, in case of woman costume, the Jergori was short and the Chima was too long. The trend of simplified clothes on upper body and abundant clothes on lower body appeared. In addition, as 'geodulchima' became popular, women came to of en show an erotic beauty by exposing their underwear below chima. Second, in the women's hair style appeared in Shin Yoon Bok' genre painting, a unmarried woman did the braids and a feme covert did 'Ungeon Meori' and 'Tremeori'(a swept-back hair with the chignon) regardless of status. We can imagine the women's hair styles of a higher class who imitated those of 'Kie-sangs' through the features of Kie-sangs who were illustrated by Shin yoon bok.