• 복식
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• 제52권5호
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• pp.155-172
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• 2002

The research has the aim of defining the special characteristics of the functionalist fashion design in the 1900s by understanding the essence of functionalism in the sociocultural contexts. Giving careful consideration to functionalist fashion design in the 1990s makes it possible to foresee the way of fashion design to meet the needs of the modems and men of the future world. To obtain the purposes, documentary study and demonstrative study with fashion photographs have been executed. Main results are as follows. Functionalism in the 1990s has been developed in different ways from the analogies in the beginning of the 20th century. It doesn't belong to an analogy but has the fused characteristics. It can be classified into techno functionalism influenced by new technology Pure functionalism related to minimalism. casual functionalism for those who are crazy about the speed and sports and enjoy the freedom and comfort and symbolic functionalism. Mechanical analogy has been developed into techno functionalism. Pure functionalism has come from the blend of mechanical and moral analogy, casual functionalism from mechanical. organic and moral analogy. and symbolic functionalism from organic and moral analogy. Since fashion design has much closer relation to human body and movements. it has been expressed considering a division of men and women and the places and times for the designs more than other designs. More casual manners of formal wear are distinct elements in functionalist fashion design in the 1990s. The 20th century general cultural phenomena including post modernism can be explained by eclectic functionalism. Functionalism considering Practical and conceptional functions ill continue and techno functionalism and casual functionalism in future fashion design will be expressed more strongly with new technology and casual trends of life style.

• The International Journal of Costume Culture
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• 제5권2호
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• pp.1-14
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• 2002

The first purpose of this research is to investigate the functionalistic concept through the general consideration of Functionalism, and to study the art's aesthetic value of functionalistic expressionist artists implication and form in terms of architecture and product design. Secondly, it analyzes the implication and shape of Functionalism towards 'Art to Wear', which can be explained as a mixture of fashion and art. The results are as follows; First, functionalistic 'Art to Wear' of Mechanical Analogy appears to have futuristic inclination stressing the significance of geometric shapes and machine aesthetics. It uses new materials, and reduce an unnecessary work of art to convey more accurate, concrete and effective character of form. Secondly, functionalistic 'Art to Wear' of Organic Analogy regards natural elements as important to pursue the warm human nature. Also, it appears to be free and comforting forms of Functionalism through an organic silhouette. Thirdly, functionalistic 'Art to Wear' of Moral Analogy excludes excessive ornaments, and includes the implication of appropriate and purposive purity which serves for practical function.

• 한국실내디자인학회논문집
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• 제18호
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• pp.51-58
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• 1999

The aim of this study is to discover the organic expression principles of the 20C. Architecture. As a result, first, the organic expression principles was organised in six categories, a. naturalism b. neo-naturalism, c. realism, d. abstractionism, e. regionalism, f. functionalism. Second, among the organic expression principles, the naturalism, the neo-naturalism and the abstractionism were the most dominant organic expression principles of the 20C. Architecture. Third, from 1960, the functionalism have become one of the most dominant organic expression of the 20C. Architecture.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제26권10호
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• pp.1455-1466
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• 2002

This research focuses on functionalism in American fashion designs which have become the center of public attention in recent. First, documentary studies about how functionalism, which originated in Europe in the beginning of the 20th century, has been developed throughout the 20th century were preceded Second, content analysis was done for the articles, including the word ‘unction’,‘utility’ and ‘practical’in the New York Times and American Vogue from January 1990 to January 2001. As a result, functionalism in 1990s has been developed in different ways from the mechanical, organic, and mea analogies of functionalism in the beginning of 20th century. It doesn't belong to an analogy but has the fused characteristics of those three analogies. It can be classified into techno functionalism influenced by new technology, pure functionalism related to minimalism, sports casual functionalism for those who are crazy about the speed and sports and enjoy the freedom and comfort, and symbolic functionalism which stresses Zen style. More casual manners of formal wear are distinct elements in functionalist fashion design in 1990s. It leads to strong expressions of sports casual functionalism, which plays a great role in sportswear industry of American fashion design. The American fashion designers who were mentioned often in the articles were Donna Karan, Calvin Klein, Ralph lauren and Tommy Hilfiger. As well as their works have common formative features based on functionalism, each of them shows his/her own strung color. A]1 of these designers make American fashion design, which can be defined as casual wear or sportswear, very popular worldwide based on the developed American functionalism. Functionalism considering practical and conceptional functions will continue in coming century and techno functionalism and sports casual functionalism in future fashion designs wilt be expressed more strongly with new technology and casual trends of life style.

• 복식
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• 제52권6호
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• pp.85-102
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• 2002

The research has the aim of defining the special characteristics of the functionalist fashion design in the 20th century by understanding the essence of functionalism in the sociocultural contexts and studying functionalism in fashion design and architectural and product design by the comparative. Giving careful consideration to functionalist fashion design in the 20th century makes it possible to foresee the way of fashion design to meet the needs of the moderns and men of the future world. To obtain the purposes, documentary study and comparative study have been executed. Main results are as follows. Functionalism stressed in the beginning of the 20th century can be defined and categorized using three analogies, mechanical analogy of futuristic quality based on mechanical aesthetics and standardization by mass production, organic analogy in which the perfect beauty of nature is stressed on, moral analogy of fitness for purpose and absence of ornament based on integrity and sincerity. In while, functionalism in 1990s has been developed in different ways from those analogies. In comparative studies, functionalist fashion design and architectural and product design have the dissimilarity as well as the similarity of formative features. Since fashion design has much closer relation to human body and movements. it has been expressed considering a division of men and women and the places and times for the designs more than other designs.

• 한국실내디자인학회논문집
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• 제14권4호
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• pp.3-10
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• 2005

German architect Hans Scharoun (1893-1972) has long been known as an Expressionist Architect, but recent scholarships reveal that his architectural pieces represent a profound idea of modern functional building. In this context, his architectural tendency can be constructed as an advanced functionalism. In the early twentieth century Germany, many young architects were not given chances to build due to economic hardship after World War I, and they were naturally led to imagery sketch designs for future architecture. Scharoun began with utopian fantasies as one might easily notice through his watercolor paintings in the Glass Chain period, but further developed his vision into a more concrete idea on organic building which he believed to be a modem functionalism. This paper intends to exemplify Scharoun's modern functionalism through a detailed analysis of his design of Weissenhofhaus presented at Stuttgart Deutscher Werkbund Exhibition in 1927. Weissenhofhaus is often rebuked for its expressionist qualifies by famous critics such as Sigfried Giedion and Nikolaus Pevsner, but the house also suggests other possibilities within the Modern Movement in Architecture. In particular, Weissenhofhaus is chosen for its historical importance linking two world war eras in German modern architecture.

• 한국콘텐츠학회논문지
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• 제13권12호
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• pp.126-135
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• 2013

이 연구의 목적은 인테리어 분야에서 스웨덴의 현대 디자인 발전에 지대한 영향을 미친 스벤스크 텐의 철학과 인본적 기능주의 디자인의 형성과정과 특성을 알아보고자 함이다. 연구를 함에 있어 스벤스크 텐이 형성되던 동시대 건축과 가구디자인의 디자인 패러다임을 연구하고 이 고유의 브랜드가 당시 유럽의 기능주의 디자인의 흐름 속에서 어떻게 스웨디시 모던 스타일의 대표 주자로 자리 잡게 되었는지에 대한 과정을 이론적으로 분석하였다. 이를 토대로 1930년대 이후 스벤스크 텐의 독창적 정체성을 형성하는 데 결정적 기여를 한 요셉 프랭크의 가구 및 텍스타일 디자인을 동시대 스웨덴의 디자인 사례와 비교하여 스벤스크 텐이 실현하고자 한 인본적 기능주의 디자인을 형태적 재료적 측면에서 분석하고 이를 개념화하였다. 이에 대한 결론은 다음과 같다. 1)공간과 요소, 양식과 기능의 유기성, 2)아말감화를 통한 독창적 공간, 3)추상적 패턴을 통한 공간의 열린 감성, 4)공간을 파괴하지 않는 가구의 형태, 5)합리적 기능주의의 한계 극복.

• 패션비즈니스
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• 제20권1호
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• pp.35-52
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• 2016

Yeohlee Teng's 'Urban Nomad' concept stresses high mobility and flexibility in 'Clothing-as-shelter' in order to satisfy the needs of urban dwellers. Yeohlee interprets clothing as a portable environment that protects and shelters urban nomads as well as creates space of clothing as intimate architecture. This study examines Nomadism in Yeohlee's designs since 1981 when she received the attention from the fashion critics, by conducting literary survey as well as case analysis. Nomadism in Yeohlee's work showed the following characterizes. First, 'modular system' deals with the organized dressing system that enables interchanging and layering of separates that function in the fifth season; second, 'organic geometry' describes the architectonic approach to clothing as wearable structure that transforms two dimensional geometry into three dimensional form; third, 'functionalism' refers to the use of technological novel materials, ergonomic clothing construction, and the strategy of using structure as decoration; and fourth, 'reductionism' is the economical approach for realizing Nomadism, which is composed of one-size-fits-all as well as unisex size system and 'zero waste' strategy to maximize use of a piece of cloth.

• 한국콘텐츠학회논문지
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• 제20권4호
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• pp.138-150
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• 2020

본 연구는 인류세의 개념과 시사점을 스칸디나비아 디자인의 인문기능주의와 연결한 것이다. 산업혁명 이래 현대 디자인의 방향은 기계제품의 규격성과 표준화를 목표로 하는 기능주의가 주축을 이루었다. 이는 사용자로서의 인간과 자원으로서의 자연이라는 인간중심적인 이원적 사고에 근거한다. 그러나 스칸디나비아의 국가들은 예외적으로 이원적 사고 대신 자연에 대한 인간의 유기적 관계를 강조하며 인문기능주의 디자인을 발전시켜왔다. 이는 지구의 모든 종은 평등하다는 기치 아래 새로운 차원의 인류 출현과 자연환경의 재생성을 예기하는 인류세 담론에 부합하다고 생각된다. 본고에서는 광범한 영역에 걸쳐 있는 인류세 담론을 최근의 인간관과 자연관이라고 할 수 있는 포스트휴먼 및 포스트네이처의 주요 쟁점들과 접목하는 방식으로 논의를 구체화했다. 그리고 현대 스칸디나비아 디자인 중 재료의 순환 가능성에 집중한 사례를 선별하여 분석하면서 인류세 시대에 적합한 트렌드의 방향을 모색했다.

• 한국실내디자인학회논문집
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• 제15권5호
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• pp.12-19
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• 2006

The artistic features of German Expressionism in the early twentieth century are often recognized for its abstract and emotional representation in art and architecture. Expressionism departed from the paintings, notably the works of Der Blaue Reiter and the Bruck, but the architectural works with curve and organic features were also taken as expressive. German architects Hans Scharoun (1893-1972) and Hugo Haring (1882-1958), in this regard, have long been regarded as Expressionist architects, but recent studies suggest that their architectural designs include a profound idea of modem functional building. Scharoun and Haring held a socialist utopian vision as other modernists have also had, but their inherent view upon modern architecture was function which was mistakenly viewed as Expressionism in earlier documents. This paper intends to exemplify how Expressionism is inappropriate to represent the expressive presentations of Scharoun and Haring. Despite the fact that their designs possess certain expressionist elements, their works can also be constructed as an advanced functionalism. Many young architects in Germany were not given chances to build due to economic hardship after the First World War, and they were naturally led to imagery sketch designs for future architecture. Abstract Idea was freely exposed in its preliminary visual form, and it is also uneasy to draw a borderline between expressive presentation and the Expressionism itself.