• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
• /
• v.50 no.6
• /
• pp.109-125
• /
• 2000

As the result of the study of this thesis, the costume of Palhae and Shilla shows the many similarity. 1. The two centuries introduced the system of four-colored official uniform. This official uniforms are BokDoo(복두), DanLyung(團領) and Dae(帶). BanLyung of Palhae are GyulGoPo(결과포), leather belt and that of Shilla are GyulGoPo, YuLanPo(유란포), KwaDae(과대) Similarly BokDoo shows the long Gak(脚) in back. 2. Yu(유) and Ko(袴), the native costumes have worn even after the period of the three countries. 3. The two countries wore DanLyung. A man In Palhae wore GyulGoPo(결과포), leather belt and a man in Shilla wore GyulGoPo, YuLanPo(유란포), KwaDae(과대). 4. A woman in Palhae wore SangEui(上衣), Sang(裳), JikLyung(直領) one by one. And over Sang wrapped PoBaekDae(布帛帶) and covered the shoulder by UnGyun(雲肩). A woman in Shilla wore SangEui, Sang, PoBaekDea one by one and covered the shoulder by Pyo(표). 5. The two countries put on Rib(笠) and similary shoes. Rib insists of Moche(帽體), ChaYang(次養) and can classify the estate by decoration. A man wore Wha(靴), Li(履) and a woman wore KoDooLi(高頭履). This similarity is the result by the cultural interchange between Palhae and Shilla. There are the five reasons. Interchange by the envoy's visit. Interchange through Shillado(新羅道), Interchange in T'ang Dynasty, Interchange in Japan, Interchange of Buddhist culture. By the cultural interchange between Palhae(渤海) and Shilla(新羅), the shape of costume is similary. The meaning of this similarity of costume equals to the similarity of culture. We will approval Palhae is the co-subject of Korean history with Shilla and will name as "The period of NamBukKuk(南北國時代)" from the late 7th century to the early 10th century in the academy of the history of Korean Costume.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
• /
• v.46 no.1
• /
• pp.147-164
• /
• 2022

The aim of this study was to reproduce the ordinary attire of Yi Seung-hyu, a civil official and writer of the late Goryeo, which will be used to make a his portrait. The reproduced costume consists of a single-layered pyoui (表衣) and jungdan (中單), lined jeogori and baji, and geon (巾), created with reference to historical documents, materials, and portraits. The pyoui was made with samcheokbe, with an H-shaped neck-shoulder band, an oblique single collar, and rectangular gussets. Two skirts were attached on the inside at the back, similarly to dopo. The jungdan also has an oblique single collar, but has an I-shaped neck-shoulder band and triangular gussets. A flat felled seam stitch, whip stitch, and French seam stitch were used in the hemlines and seams of the pyoui and jungdan. The jeogori and baji were made with toju (土紬), and small ties were attached to stabilize them. The geon is a long, oblique hat, which has folded side lines, and was made with flexible black hangra and using a French seam stitch and backstitch. The results include the elements of "restoration, historical research, and portrait costume", and will be maintained as the cultural heritage of Samcheok City.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
• /
• v.30 no.4 s.152
• /
• pp.554-566
• /
• 2006

The purpose of this paper is to understand the ethnic characteristics of official uniforms of Qing(淸)) by comparing the rank systems of official uniforms of Ming(명(明)) and Qing(淸)) dynasties. As research documents, Dai-Ming-Huidian(大明會典)) and Qing-Huidian-Tu(淸明會圖)) have been used. This research shows that there are many traditional characteristics of Manchurians (滿族)) in the official uniforms of Qing(淸)) dynasty. The characteristics are as follows: First, Qing dynasty made their own official uniform based on the traditional Manchurians(滿族)) costume, and added rank system on it. Second, Qing dynasty used the animal's leather as the material of official uniforms and distinguished the level of the uniforms according to the rerity value of rareness, color, and warmth of the leather. Third, Qing dynasty used pearls produced in Manchuria as the highest level, as opposed to jades and rhinoceros horns of Ming. Fourth, Qing dynasty eliminated the animal's rank system of twelve patterns which had been used for whole history of China, but the Emperor is the only man who is able to use twelve patterns. Qing dynasty made her own pattern system of standstill/moving dragons and standstill/moving pythons. Fifth, Qing dynasty used the rank system by colors in the order of yellow, red, and blue consistently over various official uniforms, while Ming used different color orders for different uniforms.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
• /
• v.56 no.7 s.106
• /
• pp.69-78
• /
• 2006

In the early Joseon when royal authority was not still firmly established, King Taejong, or Lee Bang Won tried to make their political position guaranteed through relationships with Ming, making efforts to develop relations with the Chinese nation positively. This political orientation towards Ming by of the king Taejong was also clearly reflected in the settlement of official uniform in the early Joseon, which can be described as follows. Gaoming(誥命), Yinxin(印信) and Mianfu(冕服) granted by Ming for the first time since the foundation of Joseon suggested that the Chinese nation recognized the formal settlement of Joseon dynasty and the inauguration of King Taejong. presumedly, the grants played a critical role in the firm establishment by King Taejong of his royal authority under unstable political conditions. Under the reign of King Taejong, Joseon tried to abolish ancient regime and, instead, accept systems and institutions of Ming as it maintained smooth relations with the Chinese nation. King Taejong whose royal authority was locally deemed lack in legitimacy and morality wanted to receive the moral recognition of his reign. So the monarch tried to not only strengthen his authority, but also take in advanced culture and civilization through submissive diplomatic relations with Ming. This was a practical diplomatic strategy that was clearly discriminated from toadyism. It was a policy towards Ming, pursuing substantial national benefit. Therefore, official uniform system under the reign of King Taejong should be understood accordingly.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
• /
• v.65 no.8
• /
• pp.1-21
• /
• 2015

The purpose of this study is to investigate the self-image of men and the characteristics of their fashion styles, as they are fast becoming an influential consumer group. Men in the thirties and forties who had a higher-than-average interest in fashion were surveyed online and the results from this study are as follows. In terms of variations of self-image connected to situations, we found that there were strong relationships between the preference of the "charming & romantic" image to private meet-ups with acquaintances, "intelligent & classy" to official events, "rational & realistic" to everyday work in an official setting, and "modest & ordinary" to complex situations including family occasions and customary events. Those who aimed for "urban refinement - sensitive" appeal also preferred a "charming & romantic" self-image, while pursuing a "classic & modern" fashion style for official settings and a "gentle & charming" style in private settings. Those who aimed for "stable elegance - intelligent" youth" image preferred the "intelligent & classy" image, while pursuing a "stable & intelligent" fashion style in official settings, and an "intelligent yet active & young" style in private settings. Those who aimed for "rational practicality - comfortable activity" image preferred a "rational & realistic" self-image, while pursuing a "rational & practical" fashion style in official settings, and a "comfortable & active" style in private settings. Those who aimed for "ordinary modesty - plain simplicity"preferred a modest and ordinary self-image, while pursuing an ordinary fashion style, and a simple style in private settings. The various situational assessments used in this study to analyze the fashion-related circumstances for male consumers can be utilized in upcoming studies, and can be an effective indicator of situational consumer preferences in terms of men's fashion marketing and product planning strategies.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
• /
• v.61 no.4
• /
• pp.63-75
• /
• 2011

The purpose of this study were to investigate influences of perceived value and perceived risk on purchasing behavior for imported apparel from official dealer and unofficial dealer in internet shopping mall. A total of 363 female subjects with ages ranging between 20's and 30's completed the questionnaire. The results of this study were as follows. 1) Imported apparel through official dealer had no influence by impulse buying for convenience and efficiency value, information value, after-purchasing value. On the other hand, imported apparel through unofficial dealer had a negative influence by impulse buying for convenience and efficiency value. 2) Imported apparel through official dealer had a negative influence by impulse buying for function and service risk. But for imported apparel through unofficial dealer, not only function and service risk but also private information risk were influenced by impulse buying. 3) All of imported apparel through official dealer and unofficial dealer had no influence by flow for convenience and efficiency value, information value, after-purchasing value. 4) All of imported apparel through official dealer and unofficial dealer were influenced by flow for function and service risk. That is to say, when consumer find satisfaction about quality of products, whether real thing or not, guarantee of quality, consumer's purchasing behavior will be enhance.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
• /
• v.61 no.10
• /
• pp.72-88
• /
• 2011

This study is about the costume relics that were excavated from M10 of the 6th site, M13 and M14 of the 8th site among all the Runghai(龍海) ancient tomb sites that were known as the royal family's tombs of Balhae, which were built from the late 8th century to the early 9th century. These costume relics were also introduced in the academic journal of Chinese archaeology(考古) 6 in 2009. The summary of the results that focused on finding features of the costume relics and its meaning were as follows: 1. Male and female statues, both of which were excavated from the Runghai ancient tomb sites, had the shape and composition of the government official's costumes such as the Danryeong(團領), Bokdu, and Gwadae. The female's hairstyle and accessories were quite similar to other costume relics of Balhae. In particular, the male statues wearing the Danryeong and Bokdu were considered as the normal figures of government officials of Balhaeafter the mid 8th century. 2. The female statue wearing the male attire is considered as a maid, and we can confirm that women dressing up like a man was a popular trend in Tang(唐), and this trend was introduced to Balhae. 3. The back flap(垂脚) of Bokdu that the male statue is wearing in M10 of the 6th site, has a shape that has not been found in the ancient relics of both Balhae and Tang. Therefore, it is considered as a unique shape of Bokdu of Balhae. However, it needs to be observed more and discussed in the future. 4. In regards to the Gwadae, the outside of the Gwadae is decorated with jade and has an embossed carving that is gold inside. The Gwadae of the Runghaisites has a unique design and it is distinguished from other ancient relics. 5. The gold trefoil crown and the leather conical hat that were found in M14 of the 8th site can be seen as the basic composition of official's hats in ancient Korea. Also, the motif of the gold trefoil is closely related to Anthemion that is often seen in the relics of the Three Kingdom period. Thus, we can assume according to this important finding that the style of ancient Korea official's hats came from either the king or a royal family of Balhae after the mid 8th century.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
• /
• v.58 no.9
• /
• pp.1-17
• /
• 2008

One of features of fashion in Joseon period is culture of overlapping of several clothes. This culture appeared with Hapbong(合縫:sewing of several clothes as one) at late Joseon period and developed into simpler and more practical fashion culture. Hapbong is mainly identified at men's official uniform such as Jaebok(祭服), Jobok(朝服), Kwanbok(官福), Gugunbok(具軍服), and women's formal dress such as Wonsam(圓衫) and Dangeui(唐衣) which formed several clothes get to be a set. Such fashion was designed to maintain dignity and power while simple to wear. And It has the trace of overlapping visually on the collar, sleeve, breast-tie and others. Hapbong is attributable to thoughts of practical science, post-toadyism, modernization, renovated the system of clothing, and advanced sewing technique.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
• /
• v.20
• /
• pp.7-16
• /
• 1993

Influnced by the official uniform system of China, the colour culture of Korea has changed with time. The ancient colour has included the philo-sophical conception as well as the meaning of thoughts. Forming its tradition, the colour has been accepted in usual life. The philosophy of the Five Element has been developed in the area of Oriental culture and it has influnced to the colour of costume. The five colours(blue, red, yellow, white and black) as the Five Elements colours have disticted the social position. Owing to the fackt, the colour costume has preserved the important meaning. In accordance with the theory of the Five Elements the five colours of costume told its purpose, social position and age. Moreover the relationship among the Five Elements, the direction and the reason have been applied to it with time. Yellow and red have been usually used by kings and high ranking officals, white has been the basic colour for traditional Korean clothes, which hs indicated the integrity symbolizing our race. The Five Elements Colours preserving the theory of Korean the Five Elements have been the conception of Korean traditional colour and they have been developing as the meaning of custom.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
• /
• v.51 no.6
• /
• pp.25-38
• /
• 2001

The purpose of this study is to investigate the character and costume of the long-guan clay figures that were excavated in Bu-yeo Jeong-lim Buddist temple foundation. For this, we first examine the Chinese official uniforms with long-guan, classify the types of long-guan, and then investigate the costume that is worn with long-guan. There are three types of long-guan in China, and that of the clay figures in Jeong-lim Buddist temple foundation is of type 1. Therefore, the characters of the clay figures are woman servants, and their costume is either blouse-and-trousers or blouse-and-skirt.