• 한국해안해양공학회지
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• 제14권4호
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• pp.308-318
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• 2002

본 논문에서는 Korteweg de Vries(이하 KdV)방정식의 골격내에서 천해의 풍파의 수치모형요구조건에 대한 토의를 수행하였다. KdV식을 실험자료를 포함하는 발달된 해상상태, 비정상적 풍파와 나블상황에 적용시의 비선형성과 분산성의 취약점을 논하였다. 최극해파통계의 충분한 평가를 위해서는 파고기록이 적어도 10.000개 정도의 해파를 다루어야 하는데 이는 숫적으로 다루기 힘들다. 따라서 유의파의 2-2.3배에 상응하는 최극해파의 통계적 특성을 효과적으로 평가할 수 있는 가능성을 제시하는 불규칙해파의 수치적 모형을 제시하였다.

• 한국해안·해양공학회논문집
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• 제29권6호
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• pp.326-334
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• 2017

1개층 Boussinesq 방정식과 2개층 Boussinesq 방정식을 사용하여 투수방파제를 지나는 파랑의 월파고를 구하였다. 1개층 Boussinesq 방정식으로 Lee 등(2014)이 유도한 식을 사용하였고, 2개층 Boussinesq 방정식은 Cruz 등(1997)의 방법을 따라서 유도하였다. 수치실험을 통해 천단고가 낮은 투수방파제를 지나는 고립파의 월파고(Navier-Stokes 방정식으로 구함)가 천단고가 높은 투수방파제를 지나는 통과파고(1개층 Boussinesq 방정식으로 구함)보다 더 작고, 천단고가 해저에 있는 투수방파제를 지나는 통과파고(2개층 Boussinesq 방정식으로 구함)보다 더 크다는 것을 확인하였다. 고립파의 파고가 낮을수록 또는 투수방파제의 폭이 좁을수록 1개층 및 2개층 Boussinesq 방정식으로 구한 통과파고가 Navier-Stokes 방정식으로 구한 월파고에 근접한 것을 확인하였다.

• 한국해안·해양공학회논문집
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• 제29권1호
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• pp.36-45
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• 2017

본 연구에서는 파랑 후측모의 실험을 통해 2016년 4월 대한해협에서 발생한 폭풍 파랑을 재현하고, 당시 폭풍 파랑의 특성을 조사하였다. 파랑 후측모의 실험에 앞서 파랑관측자료를 분석하고, 이를 바탕으로 계산 영역을 설정하였다. 본 연구의 분석에 따르면, 대한해협 지역은 NE 계열의 파랑이 지배적으로 나타나며 이는 동해 지역의 파랑 특성과 일치하고 있다. 이에 따라 본 연구에서는 Ahn et al.(2016)과 동일한 계산 조건을 적용하여 파랑 계산을 수행하였다. 본 연구의 계산 결과, 최대 유의파고 및 해당되는 유의파 주기는 각각 5.06 m, 9.2 s로, 이의 오차는 4 cm, 0.8 s 정도 되며 관측결과와 잘 일치하고 있었다. 이 후, 파랑계산 결과 얻은 유의파고 및 첨두주기를 JONSWAP 관계식과 비교하였는데, 이에 따르면 2016년 4월의 폭풍 파랑은 너울성 파랑보다는 풍파 성향이 더욱 강한 것으로 분석되었다.

• 한국해안·해양공학회논문집
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• 제25권4호
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• pp.244-254
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• 2013

1994년 Townend가 해수면 상승으로 인한 연안 지역의 파랑 특성 변화를 산정하는 방법을 규칙파에 대하여 제시한 바 있으며, 본 연구에서는 이를 불규칙파로 확장하였다. 수심변화율에 따른 불규칙파의 파장, 굴절계수, 천수계수, 그리고 파고 등의 변화율을 계산하였다. 파장 및 굴절계수의 변화율은 규칙파 공식에 유의파 주기와 주파향을 사용하여 계산하였다. 한편, 천수계수와 파고의 변화율 산정을 위해서는 쇄파대를 포함한 연안 지역에서의 불규칙파의 천수 및 파랑 변형 계산을 위해 제안된 공식을 사용하였다. 각 결과는 식과 그래프의 형태로 제안되었으며 파고의 경우 규칙파에 대한 결과와 비교하였다.

• 한국연안방재학회지
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• 제4권1호
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• pp.7-19
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• 2017

In this study, waves and currents observed by acoustic AWAC, VECTOR and Aquadopp Profiler in Anmok coastal waters were analysed to account for the variability of wave and current and to understand the mechanism of sediment transport generated by wave-induced current in the surf-zone. The monthly variation of wave and residual currents were analysed and processed with long-term observed AWAC data at station W1, located at the water depth of about 18m measured during from February 2015 to September 2016. Wave-induced currents were also analysed with intensive field measurements such as wave, current, suspended sediment, and bathymetry data observed at the surf-zone during in winter and summer. The statistical result of wave data shows that high waves coming from NNE and NE in winter (DEC-FEB) are dominant due to strong winds from NE. But in the other season waves coming from NE and ENE are prevalent due to the seasonal winds from E and SE. The residual currents with southeastern direction parallel to the shoreline are dominant throughout a year except in winter showing in opposite direction. The speed of ebb-dominant southeastern residual currents decreasing from surface to the bottom is strong in summer and fall but weak in winter and spring. By analysing wave-induced current, we found that cross-shore current were generated by swell waves mainly in winter with incoming wave direction about $45^{\circ}$ normal to the shoreline. Depending on the direction of incoming waves, longshore currents in the surf-zone were separated to southeastern and northwestern flows in winter and summer respectively. The variation of observed currents near crescentic bars in the surf-zone shows different direction of longshore and cross-shore currents depending on incoming waves implying to the reason of beach erosion generating the beach cusp and sandbar migration during high waves at Anmok.

• 한국해양공학회지
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• 제36권2호
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• pp.101-107
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• 2022

Dean (1965) proposed the use of the root mean square error (RMSE) in the dynamic free surface boundary condition (DFSBC) and kinematic free-surface boundary condition (KFSBC) as an error evaluation criterion for wave theories. There are well known wave theories with RMSE more than 1%, such as Airy theory, Stokes theory, Dean's stream function theory, Fenton's theory, and trochodial theory for deep-water waves. However, none of them can be applied for deep-water breaking waves. The purpose of this study is to provide a closed-form solution for deep-water waves with RMSE less than 1% even for breaking waves. This study is based on a previous study (Shin, 2016), and all flow fields were simplified for deep-water waves. For a closed-form solution, all Fourier series coefficients and all related parameters are presented with Newton's polynomials, which were determined by curve fitting data (Shin, 2016). For verification, a wave in Miche's limit was calculated, and, the profiles, velocities, and the accelerations were compared with those of 5^th-order Stokes theory. The results give greater velocities and acceleration than 5^th-order Stokes theory, and the wavelength depends on the wave height. The results satisfy the Laplace equation, bottom boundary condition (BBC), and KFSBC, while Stokes theory satisfies only the Laplace equation and BBC. RMSE in DFSBC less than 7.25×10^-2% was obtained. The series order of the proposed method is three, but the series order of 5^th-order Stokes theory is five. Nevertheless, this study provides less RMSE than 5^th-order Stokes theory. As a result, the method is suitable for offshore structural design.

• International Journal of Ocean Engineering and Technology Speciallssue:Selected Papers
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• 제3권1호
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• pp.29-34
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• 2000

This paper proposes a long-term prediction of offshore structures in ocean waves. All short-term statistics is generated by the simulation for all the combinations of significant wave heights and spectral peak periods. The simulation has been tested first on linear system, whose analytic solution is known, to verify if the simulation works accurately. Then the scheme was applied to the nonlinear system. This paper demonstrated that the proposed scheme could be an efficient tool in estimating the response of offshore structures.

• 한국해양공학회지
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• 제30권2호
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• pp.91-99
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• 2016

The global demand for oil and natural gas has increased, and resource development is moving to the deep sea. Floating and flexible offshore structures such as semi-submersible, spar, and FPSO structures have been widely used. The major equipment of floating structures is always exposed to waves, currents, and other marine environmental factors, which cause structural damage. Moreover, flexible risers are susceptible to an exciting force due to the motion of the floating body. The inline and transverse responses from the three-dimensional behavior of a floating structure occur because of various forces. Typical risers are made of steel pipe and applied in the oil and gas development field, but flexible materials such as polyethylene are suitable for OTEC risers. Consequently, the optimal design of a flexible offshore plant requires a dynamic behavior analysis of slender bodies made of the different materials commonly used for offshore flexible risers. In this study, a three-dimensional motion measurement device was used to analyze the displacements of riser models induced by external force factors, and forced oscillation of a riser was linked to forced oscillation under a steady flow and regular wave condition.

• Journal of applied mathematics & informatics
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• 제20권1_2호
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• pp.197-208
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• 2006

This paper deals with the exact solution of surface gravity waves in an ocean with irregular bed topography. In order to obtain water surface elevation and run-up of infra-gravity waves when the bed is either wavy or exponential, closed form solutions are obtained. Numerical computations indicate that when solitary wave or sinusoidal wave conditions are applied at the boundary, water surface elevation attains near Gaussian profile.

• 한국해양공학회지
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• 제12권1호
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• pp.107-112
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• 1998

The purpose of this study is to analyze the amount of available wave power and its characteristics related to the development of apractical system for ocean wave energy conversion in Korean coastal waters. The analysis method of wave power was established through comparison between theory and numerical simulation of deep sea wave by Inverse Fourier Transform with random phase method. Based on the results of comparison, wave power was estimated by use of data set from observed offshore and coastal waves and hindasted deep sea waves around the Korean peninsula. Annual mean wave power is estimated as about 1.8 ~ 7.0 kW for every metre of wave frontage at East sea, 1.5~5.3 kW at South sea and 1.0 ~ 4.1 kW at West sea, respectively. Mean wave power along deep sea front of coastal waters of Korea amounts to about 4.7 GW. Regional distribution and seasonal variation of wave power were discussed to develop practical utilization system of wave power of not so high grade of available wave power.