• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.26 no.5
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• pp.314-326
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• 2014

On 31 March 2007, the abnormal wave occurred along the western coast of Korea. In order to investigate the generation mechanism of abnormal waves and to understand the amplification process of the abnormal waves, the observed data were analyzed and one-dimensional numerical model experiments were performed by using both the linear shallow water equation and the linear Boussinesq equation models. Various types of pressure jump for the abnormal waves previously proposed by other researchers were reviewed. As a result, it was not possible to reproduce the abnormal waves from the previously proposed pressure jumps. In this study, we proposed a new form of pressure jump, and numerical simulations were performed in order to check the validity of the proposed pressure jump. The numerical results showed that the calculated period of abnormal waves and the maximum water elevations agreed reasonably well with those of the observations.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.14 no.4
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• pp.308-318
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• 2002

The requirements to the numerical model of wind-generated waves in shallow water are discussed in the framework of the Korteweg-de Vries equation. The weakness of nonlinearity and dispersion required for the Korteweg-de Vries equation applicability is considered for fully developed sea, non-stationary wind waves and swell, including some experimental data. We note for sufficient evaluation of the freak wave statistics it is necessary to consider more than about 10,000 waves in the wave record, and this leads to the limitation of the numerical domain and number of realizations. The numerical modelling of irregular water waves is made to demonstrate the possibility of effective evaluation of the statistical properties of freak waves with heights equal to 2-2.3 significant wave height.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.29 no.6
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• pp.326-334
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• 2017

We obtain height of waves overtopping on a porous breakwater using both the one-layer and two-layer Boussinesq equations. The one-layer Boussinesq equations of Lee et al. (2014) are used and the two-layer Boussinesq equations are derived following Cruz et al. (1997). For solitary waves overtopping on a porous breakwater, we find through numerical experiments that the height of waves overtopping on a low-crested breakwater (obtained by the Navier-Stokes equations) are smaller than the height of waves passing through a high-crest breakwater (obtained by the one-layer Boussinesq equations) and larger than the height of waves passing through a submerged breakwater (obtained by the two-layer Boussinesq equations). As the wave nonlinearity becomes smaller or the porous breakwater width becomes narrower, the heights of transmitting waves obtained by the one-layer and two-layer Boussinesq equations become closer to the height of overtopping waves obtained by the Navier-Stokes equations.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.29 no.1
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• pp.36-45
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• 2017

In the present study, the storm waves at the Korean Straits of April, 2016 have been reproduced by the wave hindcasting, and then their characteristics were investigated. Before the wave hindcasting, the wave measurements at the Korean Straits were analyzed. The analysis showed that the waves at the Korean Straits were dominated by the Northeastern waves, same as those in the East Sea. Accordingly, the wave hindcasting was been carried out with the same condition in Ahn et al. (2016). In the numerical results, the maximum significant wave height at the Korean Straits was 5.06 m, and the corresponding significant wave period was 9.2 s. The computed significant wave heights and wave periods were overestimated by 4 cm and 0.8 s, respectively. After the wave hindcasting, the computed significant wave heights and peak periods were compared with the JONSWAP relationship. This comparison showed that the storm waves at the Korean Straits were close to wind waves, not swell.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.25 no.4
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• pp.244-254
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• 2013

In this study, a method has been developed for estimating the change of nearshore random waves in response to sea-level rise, by extending the method proposed for regular waves by Townend in 1994. The relative changes in wavelength, refraction coefficient, shoaling coefficient, and wave height for random waves are presented as functions of relative change in water depth. The changes in wavelength and refraction coefficient are calculated by using the significant wave period and principal wave direction in the regular-wave formulas. On the other hand, the changes in shoaling coefficient and wave height are calculated by using the formulas proposed for shoaling and transformation of random waves in the nearshore area including surf zone. The results are proposed in the form of both formulas and graphs. In particular, the relative change in wave height is compared with the result for regular waves.

• Journal of Coastal Disaster Prevention
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• v.4 no.1
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• pp.7-19
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• 2017

In this study, waves and currents observed by acoustic AWAC, VECTOR and Aquadopp Profiler in Anmok coastal waters were analysed to account for the variability of wave and current and to understand the mechanism of sediment transport generated by wave-induced current in the surf-zone. The monthly variation of wave and residual currents were analysed and processed with long-term observed AWAC data at station W1, located at the water depth of about 18m measured during from February 2015 to September 2016. Wave-induced currents were also analysed with intensive field measurements such as wave, current, suspended sediment, and bathymetry data observed at the surf-zone during in winter and summer. The statistical result of wave data shows that high waves coming from NNE and NE in winter (DEC-FEB) are dominant due to strong winds from NE. But in the other season waves coming from NE and ENE are prevalent due to the seasonal winds from E and SE. The residual currents with southeastern direction parallel to the shoreline are dominant throughout a year except in winter showing in opposite direction. The speed of ebb-dominant southeastern residual currents decreasing from surface to the bottom is strong in summer and fall but weak in winter and spring. By analysing wave-induced current, we found that cross-shore current were generated by swell waves mainly in winter with incoming wave direction about $45^{\circ}$ normal to the shoreline. Depending on the direction of incoming waves, longshore currents in the surf-zone were separated to southeastern and northwestern flows in winter and summer respectively. The variation of observed currents near crescentic bars in the surf-zone shows different direction of longshore and cross-shore currents depending on incoming waves implying to the reason of beach erosion generating the beach cusp and sandbar migration during high waves at Anmok.

• Journal of Ocean Engineering and Technology
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• v.36 no.2
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• pp.101-107
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• 2022

Dean (1965) proposed the use of the root mean square error (RMSE) in the dynamic free surface boundary condition (DFSBC) and kinematic free-surface boundary condition (KFSBC) as an error evaluation criterion for wave theories. There are well known wave theories with RMSE more than 1%, such as Airy theory, Stokes theory, Dean's stream function theory, Fenton's theory, and trochodial theory for deep-water waves. However, none of them can be applied for deep-water breaking waves. The purpose of this study is to provide a closed-form solution for deep-water waves with RMSE less than 1% even for breaking waves. This study is based on a previous study (Shin, 2016), and all flow fields were simplified for deep-water waves. For a closed-form solution, all Fourier series coefficients and all related parameters are presented with Newton's polynomials, which were determined by curve fitting data (Shin, 2016). For verification, a wave in Miche's limit was calculated, and, the profiles, velocities, and the accelerations were compared with those of 5^th-order Stokes theory. The results give greater velocities and acceleration than 5^th-order Stokes theory, and the wavelength depends on the wave height. The results satisfy the Laplace equation, bottom boundary condition (BBC), and KFSBC, while Stokes theory satisfies only the Laplace equation and BBC. RMSE in DFSBC less than 7.25×10^-2% was obtained. The series order of the proposed method is three, but the series order of 5^th-order Stokes theory is five. Nevertheless, this study provides less RMSE than 5^th-order Stokes theory. As a result, the method is suitable for offshore structural design.

• International Journal of Ocean Engineering and Technology Speciallssue:Selected Papers
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• v.3 no.1
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• pp.29-34
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• 2000

This paper proposes a long-term prediction of offshore structures in ocean waves. All short-term statistics is generated by the simulation for all the combinations of significant wave heights and spectral peak periods. The simulation has been tested first on linear system, whose analytic solution is known, to verify if the simulation works accurately. Then the scheme was applied to the nonlinear system. This paper demonstrated that the proposed scheme could be an efficient tool in estimating the response of offshore structures.

• Journal of Ocean Engineering and Technology
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• v.30 no.2
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• pp.91-99
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• 2016

The global demand for oil and natural gas has increased, and resource development is moving to the deep sea. Floating and flexible offshore structures such as semi-submersible, spar, and FPSO structures have been widely used. The major equipment of floating structures is always exposed to waves, currents, and other marine environmental factors, which cause structural damage. Moreover, flexible risers are susceptible to an exciting force due to the motion of the floating body. The inline and transverse responses from the three-dimensional behavior of a floating structure occur because of various forces. Typical risers are made of steel pipe and applied in the oil and gas development field, but flexible materials such as polyethylene are suitable for OTEC risers. Consequently, the optimal design of a flexible offshore plant requires a dynamic behavior analysis of slender bodies made of the different materials commonly used for offshore flexible risers. In this study, a three-dimensional motion measurement device was used to analyze the displacements of riser models induced by external force factors, and forced oscillation of a riser was linked to forced oscillation under a steady flow and regular wave condition.

• Journal of applied mathematics & informatics
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• v.20 no.1_2
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• pp.197-208
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• 2006

This paper deals with the exact solution of surface gravity waves in an ocean with irregular bed topography. In order to obtain water surface elevation and run-up of infra-gravity waves when the bed is either wavy or exponential, closed form solutions are obtained. Numerical computations indicate that when solitary wave or sinusoidal wave conditions are applied at the boundary, water surface elevation attains near Gaussian profile.