• Journal of Applied Biological Chemistry
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• v.62 no.4
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• pp.339-345
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• 2019

The present study aims to investigate the potential applications of Aristotelia chilensis (A. chilensis) extracts as novel cosmetic materials. The total extracts of A. chilensis were partitioned into chloroform (CHCl₃), ethyl acetate (EtOAc), and distilled water (DW) fractions. A. chilensis extracts exhibited no cytotoxicity toward HaCaT human keratinocyte and B16F10 mouse melanoma cell lines. CHCl₃, EtOAc, and DW extracts reduced oxidative stress, and EtOAc extract was superior to glutathione, a natural human antioxidant positive control. The extracts of A. chilensis reduced melanin synthesis in cells treated with α-melanocyte-stimulating hormone. The extracts of A. chilensis exhibited antibacterial effects toward Staphylococcus aureus (S. aureus), Staphylococcus epidermidis (S. epidermidis), and Pseudomonas aeruginosa (P. aeruginosa). In particular, the EtOAc extract was effective in terms of antibacterial activity against S. aureus. In the present study, we identified several potential applications of A. chilensis extracts in terms of novel antioxidant and whitening cosmetic materials as well as antibacterial preservatives.

• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• v.22 no.2
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• pp.174-181
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• 1996

The novel synthesis of 3-aminopropyl dihydrogen phosphate(3-APPA; 3-Aminopropane phosphoric acid), and its applicability to the skin as a cosmetic raw material in terms of its efficacy and toxicology were presented. The phosphorylation of 3-amino-1-propanol was carried out via cyclization into 6-membered 2, 6-oxaza-phosphoryl ring in the presence of phosphorous oxychloried and an organic base. The subsequent ring-opening hydrolysis and crystallization afforded the highly purified product in 90% isoloated yield. The method is much superior to the previous literature phosphorylation methodsm, as the procedure is simple and high-yielding. To confirm the efficacy of 3-APPA, several activities related to anti-aging capacity were measured. In-vitro human fibroblast, linear and 3-dimensional collagen matrix culture revealed that 3-APPA stimulated the proliferation of fibroblasts, and enhanced the synthesis of collagen, which showed 3-APPA's potency for skin wrinkle reduction. The toxicolgical aspect of 3-APPA was also extensively examined. In vivo toxicity tests such as acute oral toxicity, eye irritation, human patch, and the repeat insult human patch test proved 3-APPA to be a safe material. Thus 3-APPA can be used as an effective anti-aging agent for various cosmetic formulations.

• Proceedings of the SCSK Conference
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• 2003.09a
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• pp.469-479
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• 2003

A novel branched wax has been developed for the control of the hardness of oil-wax gels. Using this wax, glossier application and smoother texture but tough lipstick can be obtained. Oil-wax gels are oily solids composed of liquid and crystalline solid oils (waxes). They are widely used in various cosmetic products, especially lipsticks. The control of gel hardness is one of the most important techniques in improvement of the lipstick quality. Addition of small amounts of commercial branched paraffin wax (e.g. microcrystalline wax, b-PW) to n-paraffin wax (n-PW) has been commonly used to increase gel hardness. However, gel hardness is very sensitive to the quantity of b-PW and the gel obtained is not always hard enough for practical use. In this study we examined the relationship between the gel hardness and the properties of the wax crystal in the gel. We have found that, when b-PW is added to n-PW, the wax crystal size becomes smaller (hardening the gels) and its crystallinity is decreased (softening the gels) simultaneously. Considering this result, we have developed a novel branched wax, Bis(polyethylenyl)- tetramethyldisiloxane (named ESE). ESE molecules are composed of a central tetramethyldisiloxane unit (branch unit) with polyethylene units at both ends. The central unit may suppress crystal growth while the ends are expected to prevent a decrease in wax crystallinity during crystallization. When ESE is added to n-PW, the wax crystal obtained becomes smaller without decreasing in crystallinity; consequently, the gel hardness is dramatically increased. By using ESE, the total amount of wax in a lipstick can be decreased by 30％ without spoiling the stick toughness, thereby achieving glossy application and smooth texture.

• The Korean Journal of Physiology and Pharmacology
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• v.25 no.1
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• pp.15-26
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• 2021

Peptides are short chain of amino acids linked by peptide bonds. They are widely used as effective and biocompatible active ingredients in cosmetic industry. In this study, we developed novel peptide mixture and identified its anti-pigmentation effect on melanocytes and keratinocytes. Our results revealed that peptide mixture inhibited melanosome biogenesis through the regulation of microphthalmia-associated transcription factor, a key factor of melanogenesis in melanocytes. And we observed that peptide mixture inhibited melanosome uptake through the reduction of protease-activated receptor 2, a phagocytosis-related receptor in keratinocytes. Furthermore, peptide mixture activated autophagy system resulting in degradation of transferred melanosomes in keratinocytes. The anti-pigmentation effect of multi-targeting peptide mixture was assessed in a human skin equivalent model (MelanoDerm). Melanin contents in epidermal layer were significantly decreased by topical treatment of peptide mixture, suggesting that it can be applied as a novel cosmetics material having a whitening function.

• Textile Coloration and Finishing
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• v.34 no.2
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• pp.127-133
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• 2022

With the increasing interest in the expression of individuality and appearance of modern people, it is time to conduct research and development of novel hair coloring from various angles. Therefore, taking into account the order of discoloration of hair pigments, we selected a creative and novel emulsion as a novel material for hair coloring, rather than a cosmetic material such as hot water extract using natural products dealt with in previous studies, commercially available hair manicure, and oxidation hair dye for hair. Thus, the change in tensile strength and elongation of hair samples by color was studied. As a result of the study, hair with green emulsion paint had a significantly higher maximum load, maximum stress, maximum elongation and breaking load, breaking stress, breaking elongation values are shown. Maximum in terms of modulus, green emulsion applied hair and the control group were higher in the 0-15s strain and 15-145s sections, respectively, and the tangential modulus value was much higher in the control group than the experimental group hairs in all the 0-145s sections. This study, which analyzes the dynamic changes of hair samples that extend the daily color gamut, will greatly contribute to the development of innovative hair coloring materials in the research and production of hair beauty works, and it is judged that it will also contribute to the development of the beauty industry.

• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• v.36 no.1
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• pp.65-69
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• 2010

Collagen is the most abundant animal protein in mammals, accounting for about 30 % of all proteins. It is present in connective tissue and contributes to the structural framework of most organs. The tripeptide (glycineproline-hydroxyproline) with the INCI name Tripeptide-29 is main component of collagen type I. The palmitoyl tripeptide (palmitoyl-glycine-proline-hydroxyproline) with the INCI name Paimitoyi Tripeptide-29 is a synthetic material that was designed as a topical agent to stimulate collagen production. We synthesized the palmitoyl tripeptide as a potential anti-wrinkle compound. This compound has been characterized using HPLC. This compound proved, through in vitro tests, to stimulate collagen production and fibroblast proliferation. These results were very promising, so human studies were subsequently performed. We investigated the skin improvement effect of the palrnitoyl tripeptide on human skin by using non-invasive instruments. We measured physiological effects such as skin wrinkles and elasticity after volunteers applied the cosmetic products for 8 weeks. We observed significant improvement in skin wrinkles and elasticity after use of the cosmetic products for 8 weeks. We concluded that the palmitoyl tripeptide had an anti-aging effect on human facial skin.

• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• v.43 no.1
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• pp.27-33
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• 2017

Up to now, better convenience and portability were important factors in the development of the cosmetics and achieved by immersing low viscosity makeup water-in-oil (W/O) emulsion into the impregnation material. Conventionally, polyurethane sponges having porous network structures and hard textures have been dominantly used. It has an advantage of easy to manufacture because of its good impregnation property due to its structural characteristics. However, it releases emulsion too much at first use, and shows unexpected dramatic decline during the period of usage. In this study, we studied on makeup W/O emulsion with various features and developed the new foaming sponge, which showed excellent formability and proper absorption and discharge ability of cosmetic composition through the combination of natural rubber (NR) and styrene butadiene rubber (SBR). This impregnation material is characterized by the softness of elasticity like a rubber, high elongation and uniform output. We confirmed that this material can be used to develop makeup products using various oils depending on polarity and controlling the viscosity of the makeup W/O emulsion. Thus, it is concluded that these results provide valuable information in developing new cosmetics impregnation materials.

• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• v.37 no.3
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• pp.275-282
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• 2011

Novel whitening agents were prepared using peptide-Natural origin compound derivatives. The peptide could be an antagonist of MC1R and Natural origin compound were well-known material as a Tyrosinase inhibitor. We also suggest the new assay method which could evaluate the Antagonistic effectiveness to MC1R using cAMP signaling pathway. 24 candidates were synthesized and 11 peptide derivatives were selected by cAMP assay method. To evaluate cAMP assay, the selected peptide derivatives were assayed to evaluate their melanogensis inhibitory activity. At this work, we could know that the sequences which include -RW- have a melanogensis inhibitory activity, and cAMP assy could use as a evaluating method of MC1R antagonist. But, to evaluate the whitening activity of some material, cross-checking with melanin inhibitory assay method was recommended.

• Proceedings of the SCSK Conference
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• 2003.09b
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• pp.184-191
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• 2003

New pyranone derivative, 2-((3E)-4(2H, 3H, -benzo[3, 4-d] 1, 3-dioxolan-5-yl)-2-oxo-but-3-enyloxy)-5-hydroxy-4H-pyran-4-one (Seletinoid $G^{TM}$), was designed as a novel retinoid on the assumption that the pyranone ring may mimic the carboxylic acid moiety in retinoid structure. The enolic hydroxy of pyranone at five position was easily deprotonated to form an enolate. The role of enolate was similar to that of carboxylic acid. To evaluate the value of Seletinoid G as an anti-aging ingredient, various tests were performed for example inhibitory effect for MMP-l expression, anti-oxidative activity, procollagen synthesis in hairless mouse and primary skin irritation. The result of this study suggested that our new synthetic retinoid could be used as a safe material for anti-aging cosmetics.

• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• v.44 no.2
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• pp.201-210
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• 2018

In this study, we formulated oil-in-water emulsion composition for skin care products containing jadeite powder which is well known as far-infrared radiating material. Jadeite powder could sustain stable dispersion in aqueous solvents over a month and this helped mixing it high content in oil-in-water emulsion formulation. To identify the effect of jadeite as a far-infrared radiator materials relating to the skin surface temperature change, we applied emulsion formulation containing 2 weight percent jadeite powder onto facial skin surface and blank formulation together and analyzed surface temperature with thermo-vision. Our results showed that the temperature difference between jadeite powder formulation applied region and blank formulation reached to 1.5 ~ 2.0 degree Celsius. We also performed same test with nephrite powder and titanium dioxide powder but only jadeite powder containing formulation showed significant skin temperature change. To elucidate main cause of heat energy transfer, we tested heat radiation, energy dispersive spectrometer analysis and measured far infrared radiance emissivity, diffuse reflectance spectra and water evaporation rate. We found out jadeite powder could retard water evaporation effectively from the skin surface and resist temperature drop down. This is because of the innate chemical composition and surface structure of jadeite, which can bind with water molecules to form hydrogen bonds. It is concluded that we can develop novel skin care products for moisturizing and thermos with jadeite powder.