• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.56 no.5 s.104
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• pp.105-117
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• 2006

The purpose of this research was to understand the process of American women's adoption of knickerbockers from the mid-nineteenth to the early twentieth century. Articles and advertisements related to women's knickerbockers found from The New York Times were used as primary sources. Before 1920, women wore knickerbockers when they participated in sports including gymnasium, bicycling, and swimming. Knickerbockers were mostly worn with overskirts when women appeared in the public. Therefore, knickerbockers were categorized as underwear in the advertisements until the late 1910s. However, knickerbockers were even worn on the streets and in offices after American women gained suffrage in 1920. As more women adopted knickerbockers during the 1920s, the public criticisms and regulations on women's knickerbockers intensified. However, the articles on women's knickerbockers gradually disappeared from The New York Times, as they went out of fashion by the end of the 1920s. Considering the social situation and the change in womanhood during the period, I concluded that American women's adoption process of knickerbockers reflected the increase in women's mobility, and the change in gender roles and the definition of femininity.

• Korean Journal of Human Ecology
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• v.14 no.5
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• pp.795-803
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• 2005

This paper discusses the late nineteenth-century Korean intellectuals' understanding of Japanese customs on the basis of Ki-Su Kim(金綺秀)'s records. Ki-Su Kim was conservative on his inspection and observation trip to Japan Even though he was loyal to Chinese philosophy, he expressed his great interest when he was reluctant to see the Western technology flowered in Japan because it is not mentioned in Confucianism(朱子學). However, he, like mordern scholars in the later period of the Chosun dynasty, took an objective view of the military matters, such as the military training of soldiers, weapons, and others. On the one hand, he appreciated the western garment in that it, fitting the human body perfectly, makes people comfortable. In the later period of the Chosun dynasty, the Koreans had a sense of their superiority to the Japanese and held them in contempt, which had been rooted in the Japanese invasion of Chosun in the year of Imjin(AD 1592). Even around AD 1870, the Koreans regarded the Japanese as a barbarian or a savage, even though the Japanese had attempted to modernize their country with the introduction of the Western civilization since the renovation of Meizi(明治).

• Journal of the Korean Institute of Rural Architecture
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• v.15 no.1
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• pp.39-46
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• 2013

There have been numerous researches on Nak-An village in Jeollanamdo, one of the most representative traditional castle village in Korea. Most of them have dealt with general and physical architectural scale and features separately. Therefore this study aims to understand the compositional characteristics of building layout and exterior space and the relations between street system and dwelling unit of folk houses in Nak-An village. The study examined houses of ordinary people in Nak-An village constructed before the village was not affected by foreign influences. 36 folk houses in Nak-An built from nineteenth century to early twentieth century and believed to have few physical changes from the original floor plans and architectural forms were the subjects to be analyzed. The most popular types in building layout are "Open L"and "Open U". The most typical orientation of main building is Southwest. The favorable entry into the dwelling lot is from the side. The street system in the village consists of main streets of South-North, resulting in dwelling lots with North-South axis most general. This site condition forces the entry into the lot from North main street and the side access to the main building. From these findings, the building layout and the entry into the dwelling lot of folk houses in Nak-An are strongly related with street system and conditions of dwelling lot.

• Korean Institute of Interior Design Journal
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• no.32
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• pp.64-71
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• 2002

Today, term of ‘industrial society’means the totally changing society by new technical innovation through the Industrial Revolution begun in England at the mid-nineteenth century and it made social structure centering agricultural culture change with industrial culture with expansion of goods by the massive production. Information working area has to bo a space not just for improving business efficiency in industrial society but for developing efficiency in working in harmony with the information and structural aspects based on computer and communication technology. There are two kinds of environmental elements of working space : the tangible ones are the area and the structure of working space, lights, network, layout and information machines in office, the intangible ones are a feeling of satisfaction of management and arrangement of office information machines capability of information delivery, common ownership of documents and their files, the security and connection between office workers, and harmony. According to the wave of information begun from the late twentieth century, structural layout of working area has become various by the working type through network of new developed information communication machines. But it is hard to apply them in actually.

• Journal of the Korea Computer Industry Society
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• v.2 no.7
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• pp.953-966
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• 2001

It has been widely recognized that our educational system hasn't been able to keep up with the fast advancement of technological development. We can frequently meet the expression： students of twenty-first century and schools and teachers of nineteenth century. All the people in this country arouse their interest in education and exclaim as experts. However, there's no one to believe that the condition of education is improved. Currently, as internet is being delved into all parts of society, cyber education is being spread with rapid speed. I want to focus on some of the issues raised during the last two years from some of the institutions built on the internet using this new technology. This study will find the limits of cyber education with virtual class and suggest devices to overcome the faults.

• Journal of English Language & Literature
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• v.64 no.4
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• pp.585-600
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• 2018

Over the last three decades, the field of American Studies has increasingly paid attention to transnational approaches in an effort to diversify and expand the field's concerns beyond the narrow sense of the nation-state in today's globalizing world. Yet, the mediation of the transnational requires a careful analysis of the nation that is still in transit. In this context, this essay examines Herman Melville's novel Moby-Dick (1851) as a case study that vividly shows how reading American literature and culture through transnationalism not only offers new interpretations of canonical texts, but also helps us to better understand the historical roots and cultural contexts of contemporary issues such as global labor and migration, US citizenship and racial justice. To address the complexity of the text's circulation and reproduction, coupled with US national ideology and cultural conditions, I first turn to the canonization of Melville's Moby-Dick during the Cold War era as a national project and then explore the possibilities of transnational readings by focusing on the politics of race and global capitalism in the nineteenth century whaling industry. In doing so, I argue that critical transnationalism allows readers to keep questioning about their own understanding of race, nation, and cultural identity while remaining attentive to the destructive force of US imperialism and global capitalism in the twenty-first century.

• Journal of the Architectural Institute of Korea Planning & Design
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• v.34 no.1
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• pp.63-70
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• 2018

The foreign concession of Yokohama was the first downtown formed through the open port of Yokohama. It became a stepping stone to the center of the market economy. Yokohama was regarded as the turning point of modernization in Japanese history and it reached the high light of modern city in Japan. In the nineteenth century the term "open port" which occurred in East Asia was directly connected with modernization. Nevertheless, there is not many researches on architectural history about the central space of the open port city. As the method of research, we examine the parcels and spatial changes that are based on the contents of maps and pictures in terms of architectural history. For the foreign concession that was set up in Yokohama and the first open port in Japan, the spatial scope was set for certain and the temporal range was also set from the setting of the concession in 1859 to the abolition in 1899. The purpose of this study is to consider the future research related to the study of the open port city from the perspective of comparative historical research.

• MISULJARYO - National Museum of Korea Art Journal
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• v.96
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• pp.239-260
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• 2019

This paper examines the circulation and dissemination of painting during and after the nineteenth century through a case study on the One Hundred Fans paintings produced as decorative folding screens at the time. One Hundred Fans paintings refer to depictions of layers of fans in various shapes on which pictures of diverse themes are drawn. Fans and paintings on fans were depicted on paintings before the nineteenth century. However, it was in the nineteenth century that they began to be applied as subject matter for decorative paintings. Reflecting the trend of enjoying extravagant hobbies, fans and paintings on fans were mainly produced as folding screens. The folding screen of One Hundred Fans from the collection of the Museum am Rothenbaum Kulturen und Künste der Welt (hereafter Rothenbaum Museum) in Germany was first introduced to Korean in the exhibition The City in Art, Art in the City held at the National Museum of Korea in 2016. Each panel in this six-panel folding screen features more than five different fans painted with diverse topics. This folding screen is of particular significance since the National Museum of Korea holds the original drawings. In the nineteenth century, calligraphy and painting that had formerly been enjoyed by Joseon royal family members and the nobility in private spaces began to spread among common people and was distributed through markets. In accordance with the trend of adorning households, colorful decorative paintings were preferred, leading to the popularization of the production of One Hundred Fans folding screens with pictures in different shapes and themes. A majority of the Korean collection in the Rothenbaum Museum belonged to Heinrich Constantin Eduard Meyer(1841~1926), a German businessman who served as the Joseon consul general in Germany. From the late 1890s until 1905, Meyer traveled back and forth between Joseon and Germany and collected a wide range of Korean artifacts. After returning to Germany, he sequentially donated his collections, including One Hundred Fans, to the Rothenbaum Museum. Folding screens like One Hundred Fans with their fresh and decorative beauty may have attracted the attention of foreigners living in Joseon. The One Hundred Fans at the Rothenbaum Museum is an intriguing work in that during its treatment, a piece of paper with the inscription of the place name "Donghyeon" was found pasted upside down on the back of the second panel. Donghyeon was situated in between Euljiro 1-ga and Euljiro 2-ga in present-day Seoul. During the Joseon Dynasty, a domestic handicraft industry boomed in the area based on licensed shops and government offices, including the Dohwaseo (Royal Bureau of Painting), Hyeminseo (Royal Bureau of Public Dispensary), and Jangagwon (Royal Bureau of Music). In fact, in the early 1900s, shops selling calligraphy and painting existed in Donghyeon. Thus, it is very likely that the shops where Meyer purchased his collection of calligraphy and painting were located in Donghyeon. The six-panel folding screen One Hundred Fans in the collection of the Rothenbaum Museum is thought to have acquired its present form during a process of restoring Korean artifacts works in the 1980s. The original drawings of One Hundred Fans currently housed in the National Museum of Korea was acquired by the National Folk Museum of Korea between 1945 and 1950. Among the seven drawings of the painting, six indicate the order of their panels in the margins, which relates that the painting was originally an eight-panel folding screen. Each drawing shows more than five different fans. The details of these fans, including small decorations and patterns on the ribs, are realistically depicted. The names of the colors to be applied, including 'red ocher', 'red', 'ink', and 'blue', are written on most of the fans, while some are left empty or 'oil' is indicated on them. Ten fans have sketches of flowers, plants, and insects or historical figures. A comparison between these drawings and the folding screen of One Hundred Fans at the Rothenbaum Museum has revealed that their size and proportion are identical. This shows that the Rothenbaum Museum painting follows the directions set forth in the original drawings. The fans on the folding screen of One Hundred Fans at the Rothenbaum Museum are painted with images on diverse themes, including landscapes, narrative figures, birds and flowers, birds and animals, plants and insects, and fish and crabs. In particular, flowers and butterflies and fish and crabs were popular themes favored by nineteenth century Joseon painters. It is noteworthy that the folding screen One Hundred Fans at the Rothenbaum Museum includes several scenes recalling the typical painting style of Kim Hong-do, unlike other folding screens of One Hundred Fans or Various Paintings and Calligraphy. As a case in point, the theme of "Elegant Gathering in the Western Garden" is depicted in the Rothenbaum folding screen even though it is not commonly included in folding screens of One Hundred Fans or One Hundred Paintings due to spatial limitations. The scene of "Elegant Gathering in the Western Garden" in the Rothenbaum folding screen bears a resemblance to Kim Hong-do's folding screen of Elegant Gathering in the Western Garden at the National Museum of Korea in terms of its composition and style. Moreover, a few scenes on the Rothenbaum folding screen are similar to examples in the Painting Album of Byeongjin Year produced by Kim Hong-do in 1796. The painter who drew the fan paintings on the Rothenbaum folding screen is presumed to have been influenced by Kim Hong-do since the fan paintings of a landscape similar to Sainsam Rock, an Elegant Gathering in the Western Garden, and a Pair of Pheasants are all reminiscent of Kim's style. These paintings in the style of Kim Hong-do are reproduced on the fans left empty in the original drawings. The figure who produced both the original drawings and fan paintings appears to have been a professional painter influenced by Kim Hong-do. He might have appreciated Kim's Painting Album of Byeongjin Year or created duplicates of Painting Album of Byeongjin Year for circulation in the art market. We have so far identified about ten folding screens remaining with the One Hundred Fans. The composition of these folding screens are similar each other except for a slight difference in the number and proportion of the fans or reversed left and right sides of the fans. Such uniform composition can be also found in the paintings of scholar's accoutrements in the nineteenth century. This suggests that the increasing demand for calligraphy and painting in the nineteenth century led to the application of manuals for the mass production of decorative paintings. As the demand for colorful decorative folding screens with intricate designs increased from the nineteenth century, original drawings began to be used as models for producing various paintings. These were fully utilized when making large-scale folding screens with images such as Guo Ziyi's Enjoyment-of-Life Banquet, Banquet of the Queen Mother of the West, One Hundred Children, and the Sun, Cranes and Heavenly Peaches, all of which entailed complicated patterns. In fact, several designs repeatedly emerge in the extant folding screens, suggesting the use of original drawings as models. A tendency toward using original drawings as models for producing folding screens in large quantities in accordance with market demand is reflected in the production of the folding screens of One Hundred Fans filled with fans in different shapes and fan paintings on diverse themes. In the case of the folding screens of One Hundred Paintings, bordering frames are drawn first and then various paintings are executed inside the frames. In folding screens of One Hundred Fans, however, fans in diverse forms were drawn first. Accordingly, it must have been difficult to produce them in bulk. Existing examples are relatively fewer than other folding screens. As discussed above, the folding screen of One Hundred Fans at the Rothenbaum Museum and its original drawings at the National Museum of Korea aptly demonstrate the late Joseon painting trend of embracing and employing new painting styles. Further in-depth research into the Rothenbaum painting is required in that it is a rare example exhibiting the influence of Kim Hong-do compared to other paintings on the theme of One Hundred Fans whose composition and painting style are more similar to those found in the work of Bak Gi-jun.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.8 no.4
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• pp.104-116
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• 2004

Kanga is a type of cotton clothes with splendid patterns that East African women throw on their bodies. It first appeared in the East African shores in the mid-nineteenth century. A new style of squared handkerchiefs brought to Africa by Portuguese merchants for the first time was referred as to leso of which early designs were in a basic form of white dots on dark background. Consumers called such material by kanga as they began mentioning its craftiness and comparing its elegant nature to a sociable red rooster and graceful feathers. From the early 1990s, Swahili characters have been embroidered in designs of kanga, mainly consisted of proverbs. Kenya's kanga products are widely known and well represented whereas Tanzania makes the best use of it for political and social events. Fascinating and practical kanga has established its position as an essential part of East African cultures that is being well received as a fashion style there in these days.

• Ocean Science Journal
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• v.41 no.3
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• pp.191-193
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• 2006

Two specimens of Lutjanus inermis, the most unusual species of the genus in the tropical eastern Pacific region, were collected at La Ventana, Baja California Sur, Mexico in November 2005, 400 km northward from the type locality. The golden snapper can be recognized by its long anal fin, and its yellowish peduncle and caudal fin that sometimes present a reddish phase. Present it record is the first documented and verified report supported by voucher specimens of L. inermis inside the Gulf of California since its original description in the last quarter of the nineteenth century, setting the northern geographic limit to the Cortes Province.