• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.10 no.1
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• pp.117-123
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• 2008

When it comes to clothing design, after the mid 20th century some internationally renowned designers began to recognize the pivotal role clothing materials play in attracting the hearts of customers. Accordingly, they started to take advantage of new clothing materials in the sector of clothing design. While the theme of fashionable clothing products shifts from style and color to clothing materials, fashion designers place the quality of materials at the center of clothing designs. Fashion designers also realize that good quality of materials should be used to boost the value of products as well as to satisfy the conditions of creativity, practicality and aesthetics. In particular, as the non-apparel industry in which clothing materials are the most important aspect between fashionable color, silhouette and details is enhancing their attention to develop various materials in order to meet the needs of customers, the fashion industry places a high premium on textile design which is the pinnacle of expressing emotion on clothing materials. In addition, the industry raises awareness of developing more sophisticated and differentiated materials. Our thesis covers the way how to apply $moir{\acute{e}}$ pattern to clothing design on the basis of research. In order to put that research into practical use, we produced textiles which effectively display $moir{\acute{e}}$ pattern. Before this process, we tried to ensure that radial grating created $moir{\acute{e}}$ pattern effects. To this end, the weaving process was applied, depending on whether light can penetrate textiles or not. Then, we manufactured test-products using $moir{\acute{e}}$ pattern.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.26 no.11
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• pp.1638-1648
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• 2002

In this study, we classified adjectives to represent the image of clothing materials as the fundamental process for evaluation of the images on various fabrics and reviewed hierarchy and evaluation dimensions regarding the image of clothing materials. The adjectives to express the image of clothing materials were extracted from Fashion Magazine and Fashion Trend Book The similarity among adjectives was measured by pair-wise comparison without showing fabrics. From the result of the cluster analysis, 87 adjectives were finally extracted through the integrated processing of the adjectives with similar meaning and a close distance. Through the cluster analysis, the hierarchy of the clothing material images was examined. The clothing material images were classified into 12 primary sub-clusters such as ‘feminine', ‘warm', ‘neat', ‘classical', ‘pastoral.' ‘casual', ‘modern'. ‘ambiguous', ‘primitive', masculine', ‘abundant', and ‘arranged'. The dimensions evaluating the clothing material images were also developed using the multi-dimensional scaling method. A 4-dimensions and 8-axes system was established, which is composed of ‘masculine-feminine', ‘new-old', ‘casual-classical', and ‘ambiguous-arranged' images.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.9 no.1
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• pp.111-126
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• 2001

This study concentrates on the relationship between the early 20th century italian artists and their works in the field of clothing design. They advocated the creation of art for life and introduced a new type of work of art which I will call 'experimental clothing for art'. The experimental clothing for art showed its dynamic characteristics in the field s of line and form, color, pattern, and material. The Italian artists made simple and functionalistic dresses, using asymmetric, geometric cuts. in pattern making. They employed dynamic patterns in textile design and favored brilliant colors which they debunked as storage and traditional. With regard to material, they used unusual materials such as metal, net, wire, and paper and inexpensive materials. To investigations of the visual expression of experimental clothing for art in Italy have led us to the internal expressions which are avant-garde, dynamic & speed, functionality & popularity, ephemeral & transformable, and warlike. As a result of the reflection of the times and the artists's will and roles the experimental clothing for art in Italy implicated contemporary clothing in the early twentieth century and it was only laboratory art that underwent various experiments in canvas but a model of efforts for the at of living, which was anti-traditional. It offered a new future and created a new environment. It is left for future research how the experimental clothing for art developed in countries other than Italian.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.20 no.3
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• pp.1-16
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• 2016

The purpose of this study is to analyze the differences in color, pattern, and texture of functional materials of outdoor clothing according to new senior women's psychological comfort. The data were collected from 163 female respondents aged 55-64 living in Busan. The results of the study are as follows. First, both the high and low psychological comfort groups preferred soft material the most. The high psychological comfort group particularly preferred soft textures and highly evaluated textured material in general. Second, both groups mostly preferred plain patterns while the high psychological comfort group preferred the dot pattern more. Third, in terms of colors, the high psychological comfort group preferred navy and purple, while the low psychological comfort group preferred brown. As to achromatic colors, both groups preferred black the most with the high psychological comfort group preferred gray and white more than the other group. Fourth, the high psychological comfort group preferred colors and patterns of clothing that made one look the most slimming, while the low psychological comfort group strongly preferred colors and patterns of clothes. Therefore, our results suggest that new senior women have a strong interest in outdoor clothing, not only in terms of textile functions, but also having interest in textile designs. In particular, the new silver women value psychological comfort in colors more than patterns of textile design.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.6 no.4
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• pp.39-49
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• 1998

When considering clothing of the North American Indians, it is important to understand historical background of the North American Indians. With the coming of he Europeans, the North American Indians adopted new materials of clothing and ornamentation and added European elements to their own dresses. New materials appeared in textiles, beadswork, and metalwork. The introduction of the "true" loom and steel needle by the Spanish led in the New World to the development of a weaving culture. Cotton cloth, in calico prints, gingham, or plain were made into dresses, and colorful applique, patchwork designs adapted from the white women. Cloth made an immediate impact, replacing skin that is so time-consuming in preparation. Glass beads, pony beads, seed beads and ribbons were used to create adornment Indian clothing. Brass, tin and silver were used among Indian metalworkers to make some ring, necklace, bracelet, etc.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.19 no.3
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• pp.302-311
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• 2017

The purpose of this study is to develop an aesthetic and functional bicycle wear for new senior women in their 50s and 60s. We developed bicycle wear that is friendly to bicycling posture and reflects the preference of new senior women. Both the expert group and the subject group evaluated the appearance, completeness of clothing and motion functionality. The results are as followed: First, in the evaluation result of the expert group regarding the appearance and completeness of clothing, high scores are given to design, materials, color scheme, the trends suitability as well as the appearance with regard to clothing fitness. Second, in the results of the evaluation of the appearance and movement functionality targeting the subject groups, movement functionality was rated higher than appearance. In the case of the appearance evaluation, adhesion of both jacket and pants was rated very highly, which is considered to come from the elasticity of the material. In the functionality evaluation, what were pointed out as inconvenient details in the prior studies were found to be all improved and the sleeves and armpit parts were rated highly. Therefore, the pattern design and the usage of the materials suggested in this study were found to be very suitable in the movement on the ride of bicycle.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.19 no.3
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• pp.259-266
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• 2017

In a contemporary fashion along with the advance of high technology, development of a new material is being increasingly emphasized and the need of creative convergence using a computer is being expanded. As a global designer who appeared through association between Japan and the West, Issey Miyake has been continually pursuing a new challenge and a solution using high technology, leading the globalization of Japanese fashion. This research aims at examining design characteristics of Issey Miyake collection's A-POC showing a new paradigm, that is, an innovative clothing manufacture system to input information on materials, colors and shapes into a textile machine based on the computer program and manufacture a cylindrical fabric for completion of seamless clothing without sewing or cutting. A-POC is evolving continually through the development of new materials including recycled fibers and organics together with diversification of processing technology. Besides, it shows design characteristics including an integrated manufacturing method, autonomy for customers' selection, practicality for comfortable wearing by the majority, environment friendly idea to reduce waste of fabrics and materials and a new presentation through convergence of exhibition concepts of modern art. This research on Issey Miyake's A-POC characteristics is expected to present a role of fashion designers in a new design idea and paradigm of contemporary clothing using high technology.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.16 no.3
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• pp.135-149
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• 2014

Fur clothing as fashion items is expanding into casual & ladies's wear market as well as fur market. The interest of fur fashion is rising. So this study compares and analyzes the merchandising process of textile clothing also it of fur clothing by merchandising steps. Fur clothing has so many change factors at time of purchase by scarcity of raw material, price fluctuation, exchange rate and others. Therefore it is primarily about securing of raw material. As soon as plan of product is finished, the purchase of fur raw material has to be started while progress of design products for commercializing the fur clothing. The design of fur clothing is consist of material design, color design and shape design. And It makes a new trend & market as we are developing new & various treatments. The some of imported materials are transferred to the factory for being treated first dressing, fabric treatments and dyeing processing according to the design. The first treated materials are transferred to the sewing factory again for secondary treatments and finally inspected and shipped. During secondary treatments the fur has gone through various manufacturing process for using like fabric materials and it takes long time because almost work is running manually. Unlike fabric clothing, fur clothing's manufacturing method is complicated and various from material process to shape process as per feature. Therefore the merchandising with fur cannot make mass production also needs detail craftsmanship depending by expert's skills. On this wise the fur clothing takes long time to the completion thus it has been risky and costly.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.29 no.1 s.139
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• pp.35-45
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• 2005

The purpose of this study was to evaluate thermal properties of soccer wear with different materials and designs. As a beginning step, the questionnaire survey about the actual condition of soccer wears was conducted. with the results of the questinnaire, two soccer wears with new material and design that were improved in tactile sensations, absorption and ventilation were developed. We evaluated thermal and subjective responses of subjects wearing Korea national soccer team uniform in 1998 World Cup (Uniform 98), soccer wear with new material and same design(New II) and with new material and new design(New I). New I was made with mesh in armhole for improving ventilation. Rectal temperature, skin temperature, clothing microclimate, and heart rate were measured in climatic chamber test(twelve times) and field test(eighteen times). The results were as follows. 1. As the results of the climatic chamber test, rectal temperature was lower in New I and New II than Uniform98, and mean skin temperature was lower in New I than Uniform 98 and New II. Heart rate was lower in New I than New II, and total body weight loss and local sweating were not significantly different by soccer wears. 2. As the results of the field test, rectal temperature was lower in New I than Uniform98 and New II. Mean skin temperature was lower in New II than Uniform98 and New I. Clothing microclimate temperature was lower in New II than Uniform98 and New 1, and clothing microclimate humidity was lower in New I, New II than Uniform 98. Heart rate was lower in New I than Uniform 98, New II and total body weight loss and local sweating were lower in New I, New II than Uniform 98. In conclusion, New I using new design using mesh in armhole and new material using sweat absorbent finishing was excellent from the point of view of physical responses, ventilation and sweat absorption.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.26 no.6
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• pp.47-63
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• 2022

This study aimed to examine the changes in women's fashion, focusing on the repercussions that bicycles had on women's life and fashion, centered on France in the 19th century, and then it examines the significance of the period to women's cycling clothing and its contribution to fashion. The research is based on literature and visual materials extracted from 19th century French newspapers, magazines, and posters. As a result of this study, the appearance of bicycles in the 19th century contributed to fashion as follows. First, the need for clothing suitable for outdoor activities promoted development of new designs with practical and functional features. Second, the clothing worn by female cyclists contributed to the introduction and propagation of new clothing, and pioneering wearing trousers. Third, the boom of bicycles in the 1890s led to the expansion of ready-to-wear items in department. The significance of the period to women's cycling clothing in the 19th century France is as follows. First, the era challenged customs and attitudes towards women's bicycle clothing and led to modernization. Second, a new and reasonable clothing design was presented that required a compromise to be accepted by the public. Third, although the clothing reform movement was not active in France, bloomer-style bicycle clothing was popular among fashionable women in Paris, revealing only its visual status as the capital of fashion in the 19th century.