• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.28
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• pp.239-253
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• 1996

The purpose of this dissertation is to exam-ine the hippie look which is one of the most popular fashion trends in the early 90s, in re-lation to the hippie style in 60s and cultural restoration. in order to investigate the re-lationship this dissertation studies the trans-feral phenomenon of anti-fashion into mother fashion in the basis of social and clutural theories. hippie culture is the anti-culture which appeared in America in the late 60s, it tried to create a new culture by subverting the ruling class culture with their combative life style and peculiar appearance which are distinguished from mother culture. First of all to examine the inner symbolic meaning and outer shape of the hippie style I divided the characteristics of the hippies into ideology social value and attitude on sex. in the aspect of ideology the hippie show strong subjectivity while mother culture shows ob-jectivity. in social value the hippie has the resisting chaacteristics while mother culture has the conformative characteristics. In the aspect of sex the hippie tries to break the fixed idea of mother culture. Hippie culture as anti-culture is symbolically expressed in hippie style fashion which is dif-ferent from mother fashion in shape. There-fore the inner meaning and the outer shape of the hippie style shows strong characteristics of anti-fashion. Hippie style as anti-fashion has an effect on high fashion in the late 60s and the early 70s and on hippie look which is restored in 90s. however hippie-look in 90s is a mother-fashion in which all symbolic mean-ings of the hippie style are weakened and the only outer shape of hippie style is presented and suggested. It doesn't show any cultural backgrounds ideology social value and new attitude on sex of the hippies. The transferal phenomenon of anti-fashion into mother-fashion is summarized as follows. First in the process of tranference to highfashion in 60s and 70s and hippie-look in 90s the resistance of the hippie style is weakened and only suggested through the outer look. Second the hippie style which reappeared in the high fashion and mother fashion in 90s are layered look military uniform mode flower print grunge look romantic look peasant look ethnic look gypsy style handicraft ornaments working suit style handicraft ornaments working suit style and the use of the see-through cloth. Third the fact that the popular and high fashion were influenced by anti fashion in 60s proves filter-up theory in fashion adaption theory. As I examined before the ideology of the hippies are faded in high fashion in 60s-70s and hippie-look in 90s. The symbolic meaning of the hippie style is also weakened and only presented as a fashion trend.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.7 no.6
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• pp.129-139
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• 1999

This paper analyzes the trend of fashion and make-up in 1990s and their relevancy to each other. Based on the chronological analysis, we propose a new category for the fashion and make-up trend in 1990s, which is 1) traditional ecology period(1990∼1994), 2) versatile trial or decadent period(1995∼1997), and 3) soft landing period based on the minimal neo-ecology and romanticism(1998∼2000). Between 1990 and 1994, there was no differentiation in seasons. It appeared that spring/summer and fall/winter trend have had no big differences. At the beginning in 1990s, it was basically based on ecology concept that emphasizes the natural image. However after 1995, seasonal differences in trend are appeared and there were various make-up designs. The trends of spring/summer in 1996 could be named as color revolution period that emphasized the unique and individual expression of each person. In 1997, black, pastel, and brown colors were the result of reinterpreting the classic and sexy images of 1960s to natural and modernistic image of 1997. Purple color started to be introduced to us. In 1998, pastel tone, pink, and purple color expresses the glamorous look based on the romantic feminism. S/S of 1999 is mainly represented by minimalism and avant garde. For fall/winter trends, brown color lines make-up comes to mix with romantic image and developed into wine, orange, neon colors in 1995 and 1996. These colors were the symbol of property and sentiment. Gold make-up emphasizing the eye area was the tendency of that period. In 1997, the fear of coming end of century was expressed as decadent image. At that time, ethnic and romantic image appeared with vivid color lines, gold, red and violet. In 1998, romanticism was popular again with modernism and ethnic mood. It expressed the romantic elegant image. The trend has returned to the ecology mood again in 1999. This ecology is somewhat different from the previous ecology. It adds a sofistaiced feeling and sportic fashion. To express natural and sportic image, they choose pink blush. In coming 2000 as a new millennium, the yellow color will be main the stream to express vision, dream, and happiness in both fashion and make-up as an accent color. The minimal design and minimal tools will be used for the design and make-up, respectively. In addition, the fusion concept will dominate the fashion and make-up industry in the globalized and boundariless age. Through this paper, we hope that make-up can be accepted as a part of total fashion in its relationship with other elements such as shoes, clothes and accessory and that it can be considered as a independent art that has direct influence on people and industry.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.6 no.2
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• pp.17-28
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• 2002

With the most popular and beloved Verdi's "La Traviata" as the subject in the year 2001, which is the 100th anniversary of his death, the present study discusses the arias by the main character "Violetta" and the characteristics, images, clothes and their symbolism expressed through and stage costumes of major performances shown in Korea and abroad. Furthermore, the purposes of the present study are to propose a new fashion brand image called "Violetta look" by incorporating this image into current fashion to join fashion and stage, and to actually design and producing these clothes. Therefore, stage costumes of characters shown in the limited space called stage were connected with the study of characters' images and applied into the current fashion as a brand image, and from the industrial aspect, a high value added fashion brand image was created.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.7 no.6
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• pp.657-664
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• 2005

Man's search for beauty has been going on from prehistoric time until today, and the pursuit of beauty has been progressing, regardless of the times, as a human psychological desire. In the search for beauty, hair and make-up have been subjects of interest for a long time, but the development of designs for these two aspects are still behind compared to other areas. Therefore, this study aims to propose various new and creative hair and make-up designs and to suggest their possible development. Using existing literature, this paper studied the skin color and hair color of Koreans that had been studied in earlier papers. It also aimed to understand the hair color and hair color images that are suitable for each skin color, classify the modern hair and make-up trends into different images - natural, surrealistic, minimalist, and cyber look, and also analyze them. Actual hair and make-up were also designed based on these images. To depict the natural image, the make-up was made intentionally dark as the skin color; natural materials were used for hair decoration; brown and yellow were used for the eye shadow to express the natural and romantic image of autumn, in general. Second, in the work expressing the surrealistic image, the hair was creatively decorated with a collage of various objects; yellow, green, and red eye shadows and lip expression were used to visually achieve the surrealistic fantasy look. Thirdly, in the work expressing the minimalist image, hair style with bangs without any hair decoration was used; make-up colors were minimized as well, creating a generally simple image. Finally, for the work expressing the cyber image, metallic material decoration was used on a puff-up hair style; the cyber image was emphasized through the use of graphical elements in the make-up.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.63 no.2
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• pp.98-109
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• 2013

This study aims to discuss the image making of K-pop girl groups to provide an outlook on the necessary fashion components in order to express certain concepts by analyzing the fashion styles. The fashion styles of the representative girl groups from 2007 to 2011 were classified into five types: retro style, schoolgirl style, chic style, sporty style and marine style. The following are the features and elements of image making by style. The retro style pursued going back to the past. It used stripes, dots, leopard patterns, spangles and denim. It reproduced the style of the past to the trendy style using big sunglasses, retro makeup, girlish hair and gold wigs. The schoolgirl style created the sexy or cute image by using school uniforms as the motif including shirts, short pants and knee socks. It included having natural makeup and straight hair and differentiated colors, patterns and designs. The chic style was classified into rock chic look and sexy look. Both looks had common elements including smoky pop active makeup while the fashion concepts and hair styles were different. The sporty style took the concept of cheer girls. It used plaid shirts, baseball jackets, short pants, thigh high boots, vivid hair accessories, romantic makeup and straight, wave hair. The marine style took the naval uniform as the motif. It expressed the image using short pants, stripe patterns, wappens, naval caps and smoky sexy makeup, straight hair. K-pop girl group fashion is the driving force for the growth of Korean fashion industry as well as its cultural trends and hope that it have a growing influence on the global market and trend through continuing research and support.

• Korean Institute of Interior Design Journal
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• v.19 no.6
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• pp.141-149
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• 2010

This thesis is designed to take a close look into the characteristics of architectural space through the standard of beauty, which has been created apart from our desires at certain cultural or historical periods of time. It will try to construct the outline of conception about the beauty throughout many centuries. First of all, contents of the research will focus on the aspects, which people have been considering as beauty eversince the ancient time without having any assumptions on its concept. For example, if the beauty of art has been accepted by the theories of modern aesthetics while degrading the beauty of nature, its value could have possibly been much more appreciated. The standard of beauty has been going through the process of change in such history of mankind. The general standard of beauty, which was established in the ancient time was the proportion and harmony between many elements. Afterwards, beauty was expressed as colors and light in medieval times. Expression of beauty using ugly features such as monsters or demons also existed at the time. Beauty has been periodically developing from supernatural to gracious, rational, noble, romantic, religious, mechanical, and today's media. The concept of beauty established from the above has been appearing throughout various culture such as dress and decoration at the given period of time. It would later affect the formation of space as well as decoration for architectures and styles. It will be analyzed throughout the five design elements; style, composition, materials, components, and form. The thesis would like to find the spatial order of beauty from the result of the analysis. The analysis will examine the possibility for which the recomposition of beauty will be provided as a design process for the new era. The Greek beauty represents a shape. The shape represents proportion and the proportion represents given numbers. However, beauty is being expressed by the opposite process at the present time. In other words, computers will arrange the numbers, which would formalize the proportion between the numbers. Beauty would be presented when the shape is presented as certain forms.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.18
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• pp.291-306
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• 1992

From the mid-1980s '91s, remarkable Ethnicism and Primitivism in the Europe fashion trend could be represented as an exotic taste longing for secenery and emotion of non-europe area in the West. These phenomenon could be found out in connection with Acculturation, which means when two different cultures or more were contacted they were identified or merged in process of diffusion and change of them. This point of view was the culture anthropologic one that make a comparison and analysis of sameness and difference between cultures. The purpose of this study was to illuminate exotic taste represented in costume in the cluture-anthroplogic aspect, to compare with beauty of costume that each culture of costume and the meaning of the times due to those differences. an aspect of the exotic taste and character in the western costume that was inspected by dividing into 'Primitivism', 'Oriental element' and 'the element of a national costume in the East European bloc ' were as follows; First, Primitivism had something in common with what was pursued in the trend of Modern Art, through the late 19th century to the early 20th century. In fashion fettered by technique, the creation expressed in a free was and showed simple beauty of costume. At the same time, pure emotion expression, creative power and witty strong expression give the cognition of transcendency breaking the routine and the cognition of complexity of an included conception. Those are garments showing not only the primitive thought and mysticism but a fancy, an abstraction, and a life. Colors and accessaries which described nature and matched simple costume composition to the expression of various material or patterns transmitted the image of the primitive strongly. Second, "Drental element" which had an effect on western custome historically in a long time had outstanding luxurios adornmental beauty of custome. Extending from the Arab stated India, China, Korea, Japan, each national costume with a gay national culture became one of motif. Various ornamental factors expressed on Trapez Line, Sime Line and Drape, or Raied style, which did not restrict the body. Those were not only functional Easy Look, but were also satisfying human's ornamental desire. Third, national factors in the East European bloc are theme that begins to be embossed in the late 80's. In view of a political change and cultural situation with a double character of Europe and Orient, it was estimated that national factors have great importance in fashion. Item concerned with new concern appeared at Autumn & Winter collection. It shows elegant and graceful beauty of costume by adding a fur or jewel to simple form. These national factors in the East European bloc are simple form, but shows the difference in more cubic formation than form expressed in Primitivism or Oriental factors Exotic taste appeared form 80's to 91's, is thought to create an forgotten romantic emotion and traditional fashion