• 복식
• /
• 제56권3호
• /
• pp.129-142
• /
• 2006

The historicism and romanticism of John Galliano's designs are rivaled only by the spectacular and theatrical nature of his fashion shows; romantic silhouette, the complexity of the cut and, of course, the painstaking attention to historical detail. Galliano's approach is very much that of a British designer in that he absorbs wildly diverging historical and cultural elements to invent new hybridizations of the contemporary. Galliano started his career as part of the wildly uninhibited avant-garde London design scene. His designs were twisted and artfully torn, weired and also beautiful. The purpose of this study is to investigate the Comic Expression depicted on John Galliano's works by borrowing the Comic. The Comic or the Comedy is a kind of art form that signifies exciting effects, and so, is a means of raising a laugh. The similar concepts of the Comic already were depicted by means of transformation and distortion of form, satire, fantastic pastiche and reversion of substances on Cubism, Dada, Surrealism, Pop Art and Postmodernism. Therefore, John Galliano selected the quixotic expressional methods to seek for having playful fun. The aesthetics of the Comic is the beauty based on quantitative or qualitative contradiction between expectations and realizations. That is, the Comic is characterized by getting rid of stress through laugh with clarifying a subject of contradiction. This study found that John Galliano's designs are expressed the quixotic comic on Historical image, Exotic image and Primitive image to make a complaint against the social evils.

• 한국실내디자인학회논문집
• /
• 제19권3호
• /
• pp.103-110
• /
• 2010

As ongoing construction of a new municipal government building leads to the destruction of the interior of the Kyungsung Municipal Government Building(currentlySeoul Metropolitan City Hall) despite its enormous historic value, this study aims to identify the unique features of spatial composition and interior design of the Kyungsung Municipal Government Building, which is widely known as a typical example of public architecture of the 1920s. The primary goal is to perform a systemic arrangement of its interior data and define the modern historic implications of its interior design, thereby laying the foundation for a compilation of the history of modern interior design. From a historical perspective, the Kyungsung Municipal Government Building-an explicit symbol of Japanese colonial supremacy-has served as the administrative hub of a hugecity for 19 years during the Japanese colonial rule and for 64 years following Korea's independence from Japan. From the perspective of architectural history, it also represents modern transitional buildingsin their shift from historicism into modernism, as manifested by its reasonable placement of interior space matching well with topographical form, easy access by citizens, open office space, and, excluding decoration, a simple and non-authoritarian exterior. Its interior design style follows Western historicist architecture, whereasits simple interior decoration embodies expressive characteristics of pragmatic simplicity. Such elements are notably found in the Grand Central Hall, the Municipal Head's Reception Room, and the Grand Conference Room.

• 한국산학기술학회논문지
• /
• 제15권5호
• /
• pp.3176-3182
• /
• 2014

본 논문은 유럽에서 근대건축의 헤게모니 다툼이 치열하게 전개되고 있던 1920년대 일본의 근대건축이 어떠한 성향을 지니면서 발전하게 되는지를 분리파건축회(Japanese Secessionist)의 건축이론과 작품을 통해 살펴보고자 한다. 분리파건축회는 1920년부터 1928년까지 9년이라는 짧은 시간동안 활동한 전위예술가(Avant-garde) 단체이지만, 이들의 도전적이고 활발한 활동이 일본 근대건축의 전통성 논쟁을 비롯해 예술가의 지위에 대한 논란을 불러일으켰다는 점에서 근대건축의 발전에 있어 중요한 위치를 차지하고 있다. 본 논문은 분리파건축회가 창립하게 되는 배경과 더불어 일본 근대건축의 중요한 역사적 사건으로 평가할 수 있는 제반요소들을 제시하고자 한다. 또한, 이들의 급진적인 건축관을 당대 유럽 건축계의 흐름과 대비시켜 파악하고, 근대건축의 전반적인 맥락에서 분리파건축회가 지니는 건축적 경향과 특징을 규명하고자 한다.

• 한국의상디자인학회지
• /
• 제13권4호
• /
• pp.127-138
• /
• 2011

The style which is created by grafting the characteristics of goth onto haute couture designer works is called 'Haute goth'. The purpose of this study is to analyze the modem Goth fashion style based on Goth's historical background and characteristics. Also, I investigated the aesthetic characteristics of haute goth style appeared from the work of haute couture designers. Goth means a member of East Germanic people who invaded and settled in the Roman Empire from the 3rd to the 5th century. Goth style had been developed to the medieval European architecture style or the literature style of 18th~19th centuries and later it was reappeared in the gothic band in the late 20th century. Goth fashion shows the characteristics of the medieval times and Victorian times mixed with punk and fetish style. Goth fashion is expressed with the images of fear, darkness, mystique, dandy and eroticism. 'Dark esthetics' is realized through black clothes, pale complexion and silver accessories. Many designers like Alexander McQueen and John Galliano designed 'haute goth fashion' in various ways. The characteristics of 'haute goth' can be summarized in four things. It creates new images, seeks various changes and pursuits newness. It upgrades a street look style gothic fashion to a luxury high fashion and the creative design with artistic value. It also shows an experimental sprit by using a unique shapes, silhouettes, different materials and extreme images or creating new combination through the mismatch of opposite objects or emotions. Although it is rooted in the past because of the influences by late medieval times, Victorian times and Edwardian times, it displays enough of future-oriented historicism designs.

• 한국가구학회지
• /
• 제19권5호
• /
• pp.328-340
• /
• 2008

This study examined the characteristics of furniture design in the early Modernism that occurred in the early 20th Century through the relationship with modern arts. The furniture design of the early Modernism was established in the early 20th Century based on the simplicity and honesty of the Art and Crafts Movement and Anti-Historicism in Art Nouveau. During this period, the necessity of mass production became critical due to the radical industrialization and new social demands. In such periodic stream, the furniture design of the early modernism pursued simplicity and geometric beauty based on functionalism. The efforts to discover the fundamental structure of furniture were intensified. It was not limited to furniture design but was also exercised in the huge periodic transformation that progressed in every field of art including architecture. The Modernism art has also been connected to Cubism and spread into an abstract direction. While questioning the potential essence and progressing the study on genuine characteristics, the Modernism art tried to return things into their substantial looks and reorganize them conceptually, rather than reproducing external objects. The furniture that was secondary to a part of architecture and interior accessory transcended its decorative purpose. It pursued the structure to follow its fundamental purpose as furniture. Such tendency corresponded to the direction that Post-Modernism followed. Likewise, both art and design had the revivable and abstract characteristics based on the identical objective in ideology. For this reason, the formative and geometric characteristics of the early modernism furniture design have a mutual relationship with modern arts. Particularly, such tendency intensified and progressed through the Bauhaus in Germany. Based on such facts, this study proved that the early Modernism furniture design in the 20th Century tended to appear in common arts including the art and design according to the social demand of the huge periodic stream. Furthermore, the ideology that was adopted in art and design, as well as its formative characteristics, was examined through the mutual relationship of modern arts and design.

• 복식
• /
• 제55권4호
• /
• pp.62-78
• /
• 2005

The modern period was the time that the most radical and extensive social and mental changes were occurring throughout the history, and modernism was prevailing as a general cognition system of people. Modernism, which carries principles of progress, belief in application of scientific technology, worship of reason, ideal of liberty as a col-e value of civilization, was plated as a leading ideology in the realm of society, culture and art In the early 20th century. In this study, the formative characteristics of modernism seen in architecture and fashion are analogized and analyzed in four ways ell the basis of the theory of p. Greenhalgh. First, 'Standardization for mass-production', which is analogized which P. Greenhalgh's 'Decompart-mentalisation', 'Social Morality', and' Technology'. Standardization for mass-production in architecture focuses on the development of a design prototype in order to mass produce; the development of ready-made clothes is actively done ill the fashion area for the same purpose as well. Second, 'Rational functionality' coming from P. Greenhalgh's 'The total work of art' and 'Function'. While rational functionality in architecture puts an emphasis on the rational operation of all the functions in regard to the relation between each part and the whole, rational functionality in fashion call be mainly seen in a dramatic increase in physical activity which could be hardly found before the modernism period. Namely, all the fashion design elements are developed for a certain rational and functional design on each part as well as on the whole in order to greatly increase physical activity. Third, 'the pursuit for genuineness of objects and universality of beauty' is on the analogy of P Greenhalgh's 'Truth', 'Anti-historicism', 'Abstraction', 'Internationalism/Universality'. This idea is adopted in architecture in the form of design of geometrical abstraction. In the same way, design using geometrical abstraction comes to have a significant meaning in fashion of the modernism period. So to speak, modernism architecture and fashion can be reborn to become an inter·national style by giving up the decorative and regional design prevailing before modernism and by expressing universal aesthetics in the form of simplicity and abstraction instead. Fourth, 'Expression of progress through a change in a viewpoint' stems from P. Greenhalgh's 'Progress', 'Transformation of Consciousness', 'Theology'. In architecture, this concept appears by using new construction materials and methods and by representing new aesthetical idea. As a result, it makes it possible for people to make progress for better lives. Like in architecture, new attempts for material application and processing are made in fashion. This gives rise to a general change in a viewpoint related to fashion, so that a flew fashion design which there has never been before can come out.

• 비교문화연구
• /
• 제23권
• /
• pp.33-55
• /
• 2011

In the late Japanese colonial period, from the Sino-Japanese War until the Pacific War, critical discourses on the modern were prevalent in Japan and the Joseon. Despite the absence of a consensus about the specific definition of the modern, most thinkers agreed that the modern was something to be overcome. While some regarded naturalism and capitalism of the West as the essence of the modern, some others named scientism and humanism as the nature of the western modernity. Additionally, some criticized the temporal concept of historicism and brought new meanings of 'tradition' into relief, and some others advocated overcoming 'the West inherent in us'. This study is to consider the temporality of the theory of overcoming the modern focusing on the following three notions-world history, tradition, and emergency-, and examines the antinomy of them. The first notion to consider is 'world history'. The theorists of overcoming the modern, including the Kyoto school, discarded the progressive ideology that had led the Western modern history, and instead introduced 'world history' as a new notion. Although this resulted from the imperialistic embracement of the theories of Ranke, a major positivist historian from Germany, it contained antinomy of remaining in 'history' which was the modern temporal view. The second notion is 'tradition'. While the critical mind of 'world history' brought 'time of world' into question in the context of temporal realization, the notion of 'tradition' was to understand 'time of history' itself as the modern and overcome it. The critical mind of the notion involves the attempts to criticize regarding history as a 'progressive' process and to discover tradition as 'the present past' or 'the eternal present'. However, it also contained antinomy; the 'tradition' here was a notion that was created in the modern times, not passed down from ancient times. The third notion to consider is 'emergency', which was a method to define the present time as a transition period toward a new era, relating to states of war. However, the theorists of overcoming the modern did not regard 'emergency' as a particular time that strayed from normal states, instead they thought is as 'a regularized exceptional state', namely 'a state in which exceptions have become regulations'. However, the notion also contained antinomy since the word 'emergency' connotes abnormality.

• 조형예술학연구
• /
• 제1권
• /
• pp.189-226
• /
• 1999

The purpose of this paper is to examine the common characteristics of late 20th century interior design style and the post-modern thinking system. A period has its own predominant spirit which determine the tendency of art, and the ubiquitous power in the spirit decides the period's pattern of art. Therefore the interior design style belongs to general art sphere that has its own individual character derived from the dominant power of the controlling system. Paying special attention to this understanding, the auther has processed this paper by combining the post-modem thinking with special characteristics of each of the 20th century interior design style. Until now, researches have been focused on the individual style of post-modern design; however, a general research comprising the whole characteristics of expression has not been made. Accordingly, the rationale of emphasizing the general point of view is establshed. Also, this study suggests a model applicable to studies concerning other art area. This type of methodology is receving more attention as an approach investigating new art ideology for researching post-modern thinking and late 20th century art styles. The conclusions are as follows: First, the distinctive expressions of postmodernism appear to be characteristic of illusion, metaphor, pluralism, decoration, and symmetry, Those of late modernism appear to be the characteristic of complicated simplicity and symplified complexity, passiveness of symbolism and harmony, indeterminacy of form and space, and unintentional decorativeness. And the characteristics of deconstructionism are spatial difference and temporal defferal, and un-reductive and non formal abstractiveness of the space, unfinishness, chance, and secretiveness of individual style. Second, the disinctive expression seems to share common characteristics with postmodern thinking. The best examples are pluralism, non-formalism, populism, and historicism, originating from the deconstruction of 'meta-narrative'. Third, based on the second conclusion, general distinctive expression could be simplified as chacteristics of plurality, hybridity, and indeterminacy. These expressive chacteristics appear to be automatically connected with general postmodern thinking. Last, in consideration of the above conclusion, the extreme generality could be distinctively clarified as 'textural co-exsistence'. Accordingly, the author might confirm that 'textural co-existence' originated from the text that comes from postmodern thinking. In conclusion, design expression of late 20th century interior design accepts the ?universal theme of ubiquitous postmodern thinking. And universal expressions and supreme generality can be common analysis tools for understanding and studying complicated late 20th century interior design.

• 조형예술학연구
• /
• 제11권
• /
• pp.5-35
• /
• 2007

예술을 논함에 있어 '과학의 진보'와 '인간의 정서'라는 두 가지 문제의 상충은 끊임없이 대두되었다. 과학의 편리성, 그 이면에 존재하는 인간본연의 감성인 '자연'은 점차 크게 자리잡아갔다. 20세기말부터 성행하던 다소 삭막하게 느껴지는 미니멀리즘을 벗어나 점점 인간과 자연이 하나가 될 수 있는 자연주의가 강조되었고, '자연'은 21세기를 살아가는 우리에게 주어진 가장 중요한 화두로 떠올랐다. 기계와 과학에 의해 삶이 양적으로 향상되어질수록, 삶의 질을 향상시키고자 하는 '자연'에 대한 향수가 인간에게 더욱 절실하게 되었다. 이에 '자연'을 좀 더 효과적으로 나타내고자 아르누보양식의 표현요소를 도입하여, '자연'을 현대적으로 표현한 조형적 특성을 연구하였다. 아르누보는 자연물의 유기적인 형태로부터 모티브를 찾아 이것을 양식화하여 장식미술로 적용하였다. 이는 과거의 양식에서 인용과 절충을 반복하는, 역사주의적 전통을 과감히 개혁함으로써 현대디자인의 문을 열었고, 더불어 미술을 모든 생활에 실용화하려는 점에서 커다란 역사적 의미를 갖는 양식이다. 신예술을 의미하는, 19세기말부터 20세기 초에 걸쳐 번성했던 아르누보는 한 세기가 지난 현재에 와서 재평가되고 수용되어 다양하고 새롭게 나타나고 있다. '자연주의'를 근본으로 하는 아르누보 양식은 현대에 오면서 내추럴리즘이 주류를 이루고, 여성스런 로맨티시즘이 유행하면서 패션, 가구, 유리 공예, 보석 공예 등의 다양한 장르의 예술에서 모티브로 부활하고 있다. 이에 본 연구에서는 아르누보에서 나타난 식물모티브를 적용한 다양한 분야의 아르누보작가들의 작품을 중심으로 형태적 요소와 표현요소의 특성을 다양하게 해석하고, 이를 바탕으로 나타난 공통된 조형미를 분석하고자하였다. 아르누보양식에서 나타나는 섬세하고 화려한 곡선의 장식미와 형태의 부드럽고 유려한 곡선표현의 효과적인 디자인적용가능성을 살펴보고, 이를 통해 창의적으로 분석된 조형이미지로의 아르누보 식물모티브를 디자인에 새롭게 시도하는 계기가 되고자 한다.