• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.8 no.1
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• pp.87-101
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• 2000

The purpose of study is explaining the Historicism as a result of compromise, historical eclecticism, between historical things and current cultural background instead of regarding it as an imitation from the past. It means that external factors in history help internal esthetic value surface out as costume. Fashion s history is more than the classified thing according to the appearance with the changes of the times. Intrinsic cultural elements should be added in creating new fashion. One of the different features between Modernism and Post-modernism. When coming to the period of Post-modernism, it connected with the historical factors to make something new by fragmenting, magnifying, or minimizing them. This is calles 'Historicism'in the world of art. It revived the past, not the past itself, in new ways : quotation, reuse, metaphor, and mixture. To represent the image, parody, pastiche, or bricolage was usually used. In post-modernism fashion, parody is a technique for imitating the past or the preceding forms with artists'own critical points of view. This technique gives us shock or surprise by using satirical, ironical or paradoxical expressions. pastiche shares the same part with parody in imitating particular or unique style, and it can be renamed empty parody, because it doesn't have any hidden motivation or satirical impulse. bricolage is a mixture of quotations from other works. It contains fragments that deepen the image. Like the techniques uttered above, the revival of history through parody, pastiche or bricolage is historical eclecticism and it is included in Historicism.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.24 no.4
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• pp.463-474
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• 2000

The purposes of this study is to investigate the characteristics of historicism in modern fashion and to introduce the appropriate approaching and application method of costume history. As one of the characteristic of Post modernism, historicism is an important theme in modern fashion. In this study, the background and the characteristic of Post modernism is considered and the historicism in the Post modern architecture and literature is studied. Next, through the artworks of Vivienne Westwood and Christian Lacroix who are excellent in the modernization of historical costume, the historicism in modern fashion is studied. The characteristic of historicism in Post modem architecture and literature comes from the nostalgia, aspiration for the past, and recurrence to the nature. It is not the revival of the past but the crossover of the past and the present. The characteristics of historicism in modern fashion are as follows. ·form; style, silhouette, and items that are shown in the historical costume come with the mixture of modem textile, new technique, and modem design. ·Materials and patterns; classical and romantic patterns, the artwork of the artist, and the fabric which is remake of remains are used. ·Technique; Tailoring techniques and the pattern making of the historical costume are used. ·Trimmings and etc.; Lots of handworks, trimmings and accessaries in that are inspired from the past are used. These elements are not come from a certain place and time but mixed surpassing places and times. With that, not only the form and the position of wearing but the meaning and purpose of wearing are changed.

• Journal of English Language & Literature
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• v.58 no.2
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• pp.279-304
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• 2012

Since the publication of Foucault's Discipline and Punish, theatricality has become one of the key concepts in New Historicism. By defining theatricality as the most definitive feature of early modern society and culture, New Historicists have promoted the idea that theatrical practices in every day life were eventually replaced by textual practices as the western society started to undergo modernization with the advent of print culture and technologies. This paper questions this linear model of English literature, the shift of literary practices from theatricality to textuality in the event of modernization, by closely looking at the ways in which newsbooks and playlets during the English civil wars appealed to their target readers. The early print-based literary commodities during the English civil war (i.e. newsbooks and playlets) were able to win the attention of their audience not by breaking away from theatrical energy and creativity but instead by embracing and taking advantage of them through the use of dramatic conventions, dialogues, and many others. The newsbooks and the playlets during the time, however, did not simply replicate the dramatic forms and experiences of the previous generation. Instead, as the case study of Craftie Cromwell exemplifies, they went further to produce a different mode of theatricality by reshaping everyday lives into serialized drama, whose resolution is always already delayed and postponed into the ever-receding future. In conclusion, the study of the newsbook and playlets during the civil wars suggests that the textuality of modern times, materialized in print forms, have been co-evolved with the development of new theatricality, whose contents and forms are susceptible to the changes of everyday reality.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.22 no.1
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• pp.49-60
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• 1998

This study found through that Fortuny's art world with design aesthetics was devided into historicism, purism, exoticism and mysticism of color. \circled1 Fortuny's aesthetic observation dazzled at that time and he apply well-grounded opinion in historicism of his all creation and then accomplish on the whole mysticism of art and technique dwelled creativity, \circled2 Fortuny's Delphos gown realized new creation of beauty intact by that the simplicity and contingency was inquired into the art at that time. He revived that aesthetic was included in the drapery of ancient Greece, so indirectly express outline of the human body and realized pure image used a natural curved line of the human body. \circled3 Fortuny's creations included a exotic special quality. His clothes expected so many characteristics of 20C fashion and exotic, visionary fashion revolution in addition influenced on stage costume. ㉧ Fortune created new color specially "Tempera" and expressed mysticism of color that found a harmonious color character and texture through the ancient techniques included experimental mind of a multilateral try.teral try.

• Journal of architectural history
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• v.26 no.1
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• pp.45-59
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• 2017

The purpose of the present study is to figure out what the issues faced by architecture were at the time immediately before the transition to modern era centering of the works of Otto Wagner who acted in Vienna, Austria at the Fin de $si{\grave{e}}cle$. Therefore, the following points were examined in the present study; first, how were new spaces necessary to accommodate modern lives organized and how were the plans changed; second, how did the external expressions of architecture pursued by Otto Wagner appeared between arts and technologies, between historicism and modernity, and between decorations and functions. Through the study, it could be seen that Wagner began from historicism and traditionalism and tried to compromise them with modernity. Many modern characteristics appeared a priori in Wagner's works from the construction of 'Linke Wien Zeile housing block' in 1898, his works completely broke from the typical historicism styles to open the period of inventive 'Secession styles.' At that time, Wagner concentrated on so called 'flat decorations.' Thereafter, his residential architecture completed to modern styles with 'Neustiftgasse housing block' as the peak. The characteristics of modern housing as above became a cornerstone of the modern functionalism later.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.54 no.6
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• pp.13-23
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• 2004

To date, Italian fashion rans the top even its rise is far behind Paris and New York. The purpose of this study is to analyze and compare the aesthetic characteristics of the italian fashion through two representative designers who contributed to italian fashion. Italy had unique industrial system and craftsmanship from the history and sense of the beauty and the uniqueness from the culture. After the World War II, Italy started to produce elegant sportswears influenced by the progressive manufacturing techniques and practical culture of America. Italian fashion of 'easy elegance' is spearheaded by Vesace and Armani. The aesthetic characteristics of Italian fashion which are shown in the artworks of them are as follows. First, the characteristics of Versace dated from southern sensibility are sensualism, expressionism, historicism. 1) Sensualism: tight silhouette, overexposure, glamorous form, brilliant color, fabric showing femininity, gaudy accessaries 2) Expressionism: brilliant print and color, trimmings and accessaries 3) Historicism: form and motifs that are shown in the historical costume Second, the characteristics of Armani succeeded from northern tailoring are purism, functionalism, and multi-culturism. 1) Purism: clean lines, architectural and geometric forms, natural body line, neutral tones, luxurious fabric 2) Functionalism: functional form, neutral tone, natural fabrics 3) Multi-culturism: design and motif inferred from ethnic costume As such. competition between two different groups made it possible that Italian fashion occupies a special place in the international fashion system.

• Journal of architectural history
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• v.12 no.3
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• pp.65-86
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• 2003

After 1960s, a radical change was taken place in the modern urban theories which were developped by many architects and planners like Ebenezer Howard, Tony Garnier, Le Corbusier, Ludwig Hiberseimer, and Patrick Abercrombie. Many contemporary architects like Kevin Lynch, Aldo Rossi, Christopher Alexander, Colin Rowe, Rem Koolhaas, and Bernard Tschumi have a view that modern urban theories lost their abilities to organize and control new realities so that new urban theories was needed in order to cope with urban problems in the 1960s. In this study, we are to examine contemporary urban theories in comparison with modern urban theories and to clarify the role of discourse of language in its emergence. In consequence we can detect four main themes in the process of transformation from modern urban theories to contemporary urban theories : from functionalism to formalism, from historicism to archeology, from space to placeness, and from hierarchical organization to network. And we can prove that such themes basically depend on the discourse of language.

• Journal of English Language & Literature
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• v.56 no.1
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• pp.3-23
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• 2010

This essay questions and attempts to answer why and how Shakespeare set his plays in time and space other than his own England. Bakhtin's concept of chronotope as integrated time-space offers a model of establishing "a historical poetics." Shakespeare's chronotope has been either negated as mere names for transcendental ideas by universalists, or reduced to a "cover" for contemporary England by historicists. Refuting such either/or approach, this essay claims chronotopic dynamics of both/and as Shakespeare's intentional poetics of ambiguity. While Shakespeare clearly wants to build fictional chronotope distant from reality and does so through verbal repetition, character names, alternation of locales and speaking directly to the audience, he also brings in reality through the figure of clowns and the theatrical space of platea. Anachronism and topological errors ensuing from chronotopic collision register desire to produce multiple meanings. Shaped by historical forces such as Renaissance poetics, education, censorship and new geography, chronotopic form itself is a witness of historicity as much as the coded ideological messages New Historicists industriously delve out. Shakespeare's chronotopic dynamism offers the space for dialogue and appropriation to modern readers, a practice no less worthwhile than history lesson.

• Journal of English Language & Literature
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• v.60 no.2
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• pp.339-363
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• 2014

This essay reconsiders the subject of Romantic self-consciousness in a post-de Manian perspective. Self-consciousness is an attribute of Romantic lyricism whereby the poetic speaker I remains conscious of how (s)he feels or lives here and now. This self-reflective feature of Romantic poetry has been controversially interpreted either as self-centered solipsism or as self-expressive objectivism. The question is stirring more disputes among Romantic critics after the advent of New Historicism and Feminism. These two historicistic approaches reprove Romantic poetry for a lack of the sense of history and ascribes it to Romantic self-consciousness. They argue that Romantic poets in general displace historical materiality into an object of internal consciousness, so negating absurd social realities "merely to gain their own immortal soul." This essay targets to overcome this negative stance on Romantic self-consciousness with a "subversive" return to Paul de Man's criticism of Romantic internality.

• Korean Institute of Interior Design Journal
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• no.21
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• pp.154-165
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• 1999

It is characteristic that houses designed by Adolf Loos show commonly a contradictory aspect between the exterior and interior. The exteriors of the houses are simple and on the other hand the interiors are affluent to the greatest degree. At that time, a stylized gorgeous decoration of the inner space had been prevailed in general among the historicism and Vienna Secession people, and such an inner spatial conception as by Loos must have brought a turning point for the development of a new inner spatial conception which can by itself be called revolutionary. This study is gong to clarify the fact that Loos has been in full consideration of the emotional side basically for the human being in the conception of inner space, by complementing the respect that his conception of the inner spatial composition, concentrating purity, comfort and classicalism on the furniture. Despite the independency of the Loos furniture is near copying, different from existing creative conception, it can be meaningful in respect that it creates out a rather accustomed and still a new space thought adding a little transformation to the existing classical furniture. So this study is going to re-establish the characteristics of the Loos furniture which work as the greatest impact in the composition of affluent inner space, the prototypical characteristics of that furniture, and the basical thinking system of Loos which can be found out in a little transformatiov.