• Textile Coloration and Finishing
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• v.22 no.1
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• pp.14-20
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• 2010

Squid ink was purified to melanin powder by repeated treatments with aqueous sodium hydroxide and acetic acid solutions. The exhaustion dyeing conditions of melanin to wool fabrics were investigated in relation with pH, melanin concentration, dyeing temperature and time. The melanin was dyeable to cotton and wool fabrics but higher dyeability of the wool was observed. A K/S of 7 was obtained on the optimally dyed wool fabrics with 5 % owf melanin under pH 4 at $100^{\circ}C$ for 60 minutes. Color fastness to both washing and rubbing was excellent and color fastness to light was also very good probably due to the polymeric nature of the extracted sepia melanin.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.10 no.2
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• pp.18-26
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• 2006

In this study, the effects of chitosan pre-treatment on the mordanting effect and dyeability were investigated in the dyeing using Japanese pagoda tree. The chitosan treatment effects were evaluated mainly focused on the colors after dyeing of cotton and nylon fabrics which were treated with acidic aqueous solution of chitosan. In the case of chitosan untreated fabrics, the mordanting effects on the cotton and nylon were insignificant and the dyeability was very low. Regardless of the mordant types(Al, Sn, and Fe), the dyed fabrics exhibited almost identical yellowish colors. In the case of chitosan treated fabrics, dark colors were obtained compared to the case of chitosan untreated and ${\Delta}E$ values were increased significantly. In cotton fabrics, the most excellent result was obtained under the condition of unmordanted and chitosan treated fabrics. This verifies the fact that routin coloring matters establish direct linkages with the chitosan components, which exhibit cationic nature, easily. In nylon fabrics, the effects of mordanting treatment and chitosan treatment are so insignificant that the routin coloring matters are presumed to establish direct dyeing with the nylon molecular chains.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.43
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• pp.97-108
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• 1999

This paper is a study on the expression of Clothing and Textiles recorded in $\boxDr$Eigamonokatary$\boxUl$ focus on Color and Dying. $\boxDr$Eigamonokatary$\boxUl$is a novel described the life style of Royal Court from 883 till 1107. The discoveries of this paper were as follows. 1. The materials of colors and dyeing which are described in this book reflect the features of the age well. We can assume that the point of its chic might rest on colors and dyeing than design or pattern. 2. Sine they enjoyed wearing lots of clothes which are in the same design but in different colors with the underwear. When color coordinate was fashioned we call them "Kasanenoirome". This type of dressing was in vogue in the age of Heian when there were several devices of showing chic in dressing. 3. The color of clothes at that time might represent one's official position the black the highest class following the purple the red and the blue or green. The black color was made from the purple or blue. The Japanese Emperor would wear reddish yellow or blue clothes according to the nature of his office work. 4. Some of Japanese fashion might be influenced by Korean styles in the respects of coordinating colors and adjusting Buddhist fashion etc. It is required that the turther studies of comparing Korean fashion styles with Japanese ones should be deepened. deepened.

• Textile Coloration and Finishing
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• v.2 no.1
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• pp.8-13
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• 1990

The fading of dyed material by light has long been subject of investigation, yet surprisingly little is known of the fundamental photochemical reactions, because of mainly the complex nature of dye-fibre system. The effect of the chemical structure of dye on lightfastness has been mostly studied when there is substituents on the place satisfied Hammett rule. Therefore, in this investigation the effectiveness of chemical structures of Congo Red and Benzopurpurine 4B unsatisfied Hammett rule on dyeing property and lightfastness of cotton was studied. The results obtained from this study were as follows; 1. Highly polar solvents showed hypsochromic shift. 2. Adsorption isotherm curves of the two dyes were Freundlich type. And Congo Red showed good dyeing property in comparision with Benzopurpurine 4B. 3. The type of the FR curve of the two dyes was first-ordr curve. And the CF curves of the two dyes showed normal fading state during irradiation. 4. During irradiation, the Hue was changed on the part of yellowish. The Value was increasing and the Chroma was decreasing. 5. Benzopurpurine 4B showed good lightfastness in comparision with Congo Red.

• The Journal of the Korea Contents Association
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• v.17 no.11
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• pp.221-228
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• 2017

This paper aimed to find out the eco-friendly approach enabling to directly print patterns and dye colors on fabrics using leaves of plants. In the research process, I found out the 'eco-printing' which could effectively express unique colors and patterns of plants. While eco-printing can design the patterns and colors of plants in nature using the leaves of plant(Eucalyptus), it is difficult to implement because it is not systematically and academically investigated including the dictionary definition in Korea until now. Thus, I tried to define the eco-printing and natural dyeing using leaves or flowers of plants enabling to get natural patterns and colors and do the experimental research and production using the leaves of Eucalyptus. The leaves of Eucalyptus were arranged on a wool scarf and a silk scarf, tied and applied pressure to them and made pigments penetrate into fabrics by heating or steaming them. This approach is to directly print the patterns using the shapes of plants on fabrics unlike the existing approaches dyeing by extracting dyeing solution from natural materials. Furthermore, the change of colors was attempted by using the color fixers. In accordance with the results of this experimental research, the scarf design differentiated from the existing products could be acquired. It was identified that eco-printing could induce the color variables depending on the conditions of each material and environment. For improving the color variables, various kinds of fabrics and divers kinds of materials which can be easily acquired in a daily life will be investigated and compared. Furthermore, it is expected that the experimental research and production techniques on eco-printing be utilized when starting natural dyeing and the scope of natural dyeing be more expanded.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.53 no.2
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• pp.137-151
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• 2003

Fashion photographs from leading monthly fashion magazines in 1990s were analyzed. The types and the formative feature characteristics and the aesthetic values of domestic retrospective fashion were studied. The major conclusions of the study are as follows 1. The types of domestic retro fashion were historicism, ethnic, ecology. Retro fashion was expressed through applying and reappearing silhouette, detail. fabric and image of the costumes of the past. 2. Renaissance. Baroque, Rococo styles and the costumes and styles of 1960s and 1970s were mainly applied in domestic fashion. 3. Orientalism was emphasized and Korean traditional styles and Chinese costumes were expressed mainly in domestic fashion. Fashion trends recurrent and intimate to the nature were expressed in patterns, fabrics, dyeing and silhouettes of nature. 4. The formative feature characteristics of domestic retro fashion were recurrence, purity. tradition and decoration. As retro fashion applies costumes of the past newly, it supplies unlimited possibilities to the present fashion which seeks versatility.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.20 no.2
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• pp.47-62
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• 2018

This study examined recycled fashion design utilizing natural images for application to recent trends. This study is significant in that it presents the possibility of the development of recycled women's wear design by reflecting the characteristics and expressions of natural images and using denim material, which is the most common clothing material for everyday life. The results of this study are summarized as follows. First, five types of women's clothing was produced, pursuing a natural design with a soft and feminine silhouette. Second, the colors used were blue and white, which could represent nature. Third, as for materials, this study used clothing that was to be thrown away: four pairs of denim pants and two denim dresses. This study chose denim cloth, with its great value for reuse, because of the characteristics of the strong and durable fiber, because everyone has more than one article of clothing made from denim and because it can be easily sourced. Fourth, for textile motifs, this study expressed a peaceful natural scenery with tropical animals and plants. In addition, this study further emphasized natural images using transfer media printing. This study has significance in that it presented the possibility of recycled fashion design and expanded the range of utilization using transfer media printing, a dyeing treatment to reduce the environmental burden.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.4 no.1
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• pp.173-183
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• 2002

The orchid has a very elegant color and various forms in the nature or the ground for human life and the mother of life, The purpose of this study is to express some creative formative art by using the orchid as motive, and thereby, suggest the possibility of an artistic modern costume design by reviewing the texture of the materials. The results of this study can be summarized as follows; First, it was confirmed through this study that the orchid with diverse forms and colors can be used as design motive in almost infinitely diverse ways, and that all the artificial forms or structures contain the elements of natural beauty. Second, the luxurious and rich sense of orchid‘s color can be maximized by using the complementary contrast effect of the dyeing technique and the color gradation effect through harmony among similar colors. Third, a high value-added costume can be created to meet modern men’s aesthetic desire by using such embroidery techniques as crochet, weaving, dyeing, beads embroidery and art flower. Fourth, different effects of texture can be rendered by using different materials of various textures and characteristics. In addition, the possibility of creative expression for costume as formative art can be enhanced by expanding the expressions of the materials.

• Textile Coloration and Finishing
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• v.22 no.2
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• pp.94-100
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• 2010

Colored compounds adsorption from the textile dyeing effluents on activated carbons produced from various indigenous vegetable sources by zinc chloride activation is studied. The most important parameters in chemical activation were found to be the chemical ratio of $ZnCl_2$ to feed (3:1), carbonization temperature (460-470 $^{\circ}C$) and time of activation (75 min). The absorbance at 511 nm (red effluent) and 615 nm (blue effluent) are used for estimation of color. It is established that at optimum temperature ($50^{\circ}C$), time of contact (30-40 min) and adsorbent loading (2 g/L), activated carbons developed from rain tree (Samanea saman) saw dust and blackberry (Randia formosa) tree saw dust showed great capability to remove color materials from the effluents. It is observed that adsorption of reactive dyes by all types of activated carbons is more than that of disperse dyes. It is explained that because of its acidic nature the activated carbon can adsorb better reactive dye particles containing large number of nitrogen sites and $-SO_3Na$ group in their structure. The use of activated carbons from the indigenous biomass would be economical, because saw dusts are readily available waste worldwide.

• Journal of Sericultural and Entomological Science
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• v.25 no.2
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• pp.51-57
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• 1984

This studies have been carried out to find anticrease finishing method other than urea formaldehyde polymerization method which the author had done it with his former report. Acrylic amide polymerization method with water solubility controlling device was developed in this parer and the obtained results are as followings. 1. Poor anticrease silk textile could improve as much as 25% than original fabric. 2. Light density with high twisted silk textiles may improve a few per cent increase of anticrease, because they held good anticrease nature as well as polyester fabric. 3. There was no significant stiffness change after such finish. 4. This finish is recommended to carry after dyeing process either yarn dye or cloth dyeing. 5. The finished textile with this method is recommended to wash with dry cleanning method.