• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제10권4호
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• pp.544-551
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• 2008

In this study, the colorants of Amur cork tree were extracted with boiling water. Chitosan crosslinked cotton fabrics have been dyed with aqueous extract of Amur cork tree and their dyeabilities on the fabrics were studied. Additionally the fastness to washing and light were also investigated. Cotton fabrics were treated with a crosslinking agent epichlorohydrin in the presence of chitosan to provide the cotton fabrics the dyeing properties of natural dye(Amur cork tree) by the chemical linking of chitosan to the cellulose structure. This process was applied by means of the conventional mercerizing process. The chitosan finishing and durable press finishing of the cotton fabrics occurred simultaneously in the mercerization bath. On the surface color change, the fabric of no-chitosan finished and no-mordanted has greenish yellow. The more crosslinked chitosan on cotton fabrics has the more turned down greenish on the surface color, as increasing the concentration of chitosan, greenish color turn down to the yellow close the 90o hue angle. In all sorts of fabrics, dyeability(K/S) is slightly affected by the number of manufacturing process and the concentration of chitosan. But only mercerized cotton fabric has higher dyeability (K/S) than mordant treated cotton fabrics. Wash fastness has little different results by each condition, but almost similar values. Light fastness was improved with chitosan treatment on cotton fabric.

• Plant Resources
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• 제5권3호
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• pp.202-205
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• 2002

This study was performed to investigate the effect of Perilla frutescens Herba extract on the treatment of chromaticity and colorfastness. Perilla frutescens Herba has been used as a Korean medicine. It is effective in removing dangerous for an unborn child and suppressing pain. It is also good as a detoxification and in treating cold. In the long history of Korea, dyeing has been applied for a means representing the grace of natural and inner esthetic consciousness of man. Vegetable dyes give us such great benefits, diversified color, but no pollution. And ramie fabric has distinctive features such as beautiful brilliance, elegance, and strong durability. So, it is regarded as a special product of Korea traditionally. These studies were carried out to treat with acetate iron, dichloride copper and alum with a mordant to ramie fabric. The ramie fabric was died with Perilla frutescens Herba extract. The results of experiment showed as follows: First, the chromophoric degree was the highest in acetate iron but not distinction in another mordants. Second, the light colorfastness was the highest in non treated and dichloride copper, but alum was the lowest. Third, the discoloration was alum and dichloride copper showed first grade in washing colorfastness. Abrasion colorfastness was not significant in this test. According the previous results, Perilla frutescens Herba has an efficiency in removing skin disorders and suppressing pain. So it considered that Perilla frutescens Herba can be applied effectively to theraphy of detoxification and in treating cold.

• Plant Resources
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• 제5권3호
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• pp.210-213
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• 2002

This study was performed to investigate the effect of Epimedium brevicornum Herba extract on the treatment of chromaticity and colorfastness. Epimedium brevicornum Herba has been used as a Korean medicine. It is effective in sexual excitement, depressant of blood pressure and anti-virus. It is also good as a tonic and in treating involuntary emission of semen. In the long history of Korea, dyeing has been applied for a means representing the grace of natural and inner esthetic consciousness of man. Vegetable dyes give us such great benefits, diversified color, but no pollution. And ramie fabric has distinctive features such as beautiful brilliance, elegance, and strong durability. So, it is regarded as a special product of Korea traditionally. These studies were carried out to treat with acetate iron, dichloride copper and alum with a mordant to ramie fabric. The ramie fabric was died with Epimedium brevicornum Herba extract. The results of experiment showed as follows: First, the chromophoric degree was the highest in acetate iron but not distinction in another mordants. Second, the light colorfastness was the highest in non treated and dichloride copper, but alum was the lowest. Third, the discoloration was alum and dichloride copper showed first grade in washing colorfastness. Abrasion colorfastness was not significant in this test. According the previous results, Epimedium brevicornum Herba has an efficiency in sexual excitement, depressant of blood pressure and anti-virus. So it is considered that Epimedium brevicornum Herba can be applied effectively to tonic and in treating involuntary emission of semen.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제38권5호
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• pp.755-768
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• 2014

This study explores the situation of domestic production and import of dyes as well as type of dye supplier and type of dyer in the Joseon Dynasty based on an analysis of relevant documents. The findings are as follows. Many kinds of natural dyes and natural mordant were produced in the Joseon Dynasty. Some were imported from other countries when in short supply or for diplomatic reasons. As the government organization in charge of the dyes supply and demand, the Jeyonggam was cooperated with the Gongin merchants. As private merchants, there existed Hwapijeon merchants and Cheongramgye merchants. Cheongramgye merchants were both the producer and the seller of indigo sediment. There existed two types of dyers, such as government-operated dyers and private dyers. The Yeomjang (master dyers) and Yeommo (female dyers) were subjugated to government departments in the early part of Joseon Dynasty, but gradually allowed to pursue self-profit. The Yeomga was the private dye house that existed in the early period of the Joseon Dynasty. Ladies and female servants were also allowed to dye for family use or to help in livelihoods. Jeonyeomga was a branch specialized in indigo dyeing. Lastly, the Yoemgye were the merchants of dyed paper and textiles as well as dyers.

• Plant Resources
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• 제5권1호
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• pp.74-77
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• 2002

This study was performed to investigate the effect of Leonuri Herba extract on the treatment of chromaticity and colorfastness. Leonuri Herba has been used as a Korean medicine for the treatment of woman disease. In the long history of Korea, dyeing has been applied for a means representing the grace of natural and inner esthetic consciousness of man. Vegetable dyes give us such great benefits, diversified color, but no pollution. And ramie fabric has distinctive features such as beautiful brilliance, elegance, and strong durability. So, it is regarded as a special product of Korea traditionally. These studies were carried out to treat with acetate iron, dichloride copper and alum with a mordant to ramie fabric. The ramie fabric was died with Leonuri Herba extract. The results of experiment showed as follows: First, the chromophoric degree was the highest in acetate iron but not distinction in another mordants. Seocond, the light colorfastness was the highest in non treated and dichloride copper, but alum was the lowest. Third, the discoloration was alum and dichloride copper showed first grade in washing colorfastness. Abrasion colorfastness was not significant in this test. According the previous results, Leonuri Herba has an efficiency on woman disease. So it is considered that Leonuri Herba can be applied effectively to a theraphy of climacteric disturbance.

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제12권3호
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• pp.381-388
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• 2010

The purpose of this study was investigate the dyeing property on chitosan crosslinked cotton fabric with cochineal at variable conditions. Chitosan crosslinked cotton fabrics were manufactured by crosslinking agent epichlorohydrin in the presence of chitosan. Chitosan crosslinked cotton fabrics dyed using cochineal were post-mordanted using Al, Fe and Cu. The dyeability(K/S) of chitosan crosslinked cotton fabrics were measured by computer color matching. Additionally the fastness to washing and light were also investigated. The dye-uptake of chitosan crosslinked cotton fabrics increased with the dyeing time. The saturated dyeing time was about 20minutes at $60^{\circ}C$. The dyeability(K/S) was remarkably increased with increasing content of crosslinked chitosan because of having a amine group of chitosan. Chitosan crosslinked cotton fabrics were dyed yellowish red by non and Fe mordanting, blueish red by Al and Cu mordanting, respectively. The washing and light fastness were increased by mordanting, especially Cu and Fe mordanting.

• 한국염색가공학회지
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• 제12권6호
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• pp.389-395
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• 2000

A natural colorants was extracted from cherry by 10wt% aqueous acetic acid solution as an extractant. Silk and cotton fabrics were dyed with the cherry extract in the temperature range of $40-80^\circ{C}$ and for the time range of 30-60min. by pre- and post-mordanting with various mordants, their dyeability and fastness were investigated. The natural cherry extract prepared in this study has a maximum absorbance at 520nm. It was found that the optimum dyeing temperature and time were $40^\circ{C}$ and 50min, respectively. The pre-mordanting method was more effective than post-mordanting. All mordants except $SnCl_2\cdot{2H}_2O\;and\;FeSO_4\cdot{7H}_2O$ were effective for silk fabrics. However, the dyeability on cotton fabrics increased in the order of $CrK(SO_4)_2\cdot{12H_2O>(CH_3COO)_2Cu\cdot{H}_2O>CuSO_4\cdot{5H}_2O>AlK(SO_4)_2\cdot{12H}_2O>FeSO_4\cdot{7H}_2O>SnCl_2\cdot{2H}_2O$ among the mordants used in this study Fastness(light, water, washing, perpspiration fastness) on the silk and cotton fabrics increased with using mordants. The post-mordanting using mordant$(CH_3COO)_2Cu\cdot{H}_2O$ among the various mordants in this study gave the best fastness.

• 패션비즈니스
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• 제10권3호
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• pp.78-86
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• 2006

Coffee extract dyeing on silk fabric using various mordanting agents at different mordanting condition was studied in our previous research. Coffee extract dyeing can exert beautiful colors and have several advantages over the conventional natural dyeing. Since most of natural dyes are expensive for mass production, strongly season and source dependent, and hard to store, and therefore, coffee waste was used as natural dye to create beautiful colors in this study. Coffee waste is inexpensive and easy to store, and provide a comparatively regular quality regardless of season and source. The effects of dyeing condition such as dyeing temperature, dyeing time, and liquor ratio on dyeing characteristics of silk fabrics were investigated. Coffee extract dyed silk showed brilliant colors, and the colors were different with the kind of mordant. Cu, Sn, and Al mordanted silks showed golden yellow with subtle change of hue and value, while Fe mordanted silk showed a brownish green color upon coffee extract dyeing. As the dyeing temperature increased, the dyeability generally increased in all mordanted silk fabrics except Fe mordanted silk until $45^{\circ}C$. The dyeing temperature did not affect the dyeability of Fe mordanted silk fabric. As the liquor ratio increased, the dyeability showed a gradual increase in all mordanted silk except Cu mordanted silk. Cu mordanted silk fabric showed an abrupt increase in dyeability at liquor ratio1:150. The dyeing time effect can be separated into 2 stages. During the initial half an hour, the dyeability did not change significantly, and then, increased after 45 min. dyeing time duration. A further increase in dyeing time after 45 min. did not affect the dyeing efficiency in all mordanted silk fabrics except the Cu mordanted.

• 한국염색가공학회지
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• 제11권3호
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• pp.15-22
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• 1999

This study investigated the mordanting effect of natural mordants such as camellia ash, bean chaff ash and pyrolignite of iron(Iron(II) Acetate) on silk fabrics dyed with green tea extracts. Experimental variables include the conditions of extraction and dyeing, and types of natural mordants. Inorganic ion contents In natural mordants were analysed by Induced Coupled Plasma Atomic Emission Spectrometer. In the ash Al, Fe, Si and Mn were in % unit, Cr and Ni were detected in ppm unit, and in the aqueous extracts of the ash all the metal ions were in ppm unit. On the other hand, fairly high content of Al(2.13% ) in camellia ash extract and Fe(7.91% ) in the aqueous extracts of pyrolignite iron were detected. The absorbance intensity of green tea extracts in UV-Visible spectrum increased with the temperature and time of extraction. The maximum absorption wavelength of the extracts appeared at 272.5nm and 210.5nm. The US values of silk fabrics dyed with green tea extracts were increased with temperature and time of dyeing. Surface color of silk fabric dyed with green tea extracts was 9.1YR, but it was changed from 7.9YR to 7.5YR by camellia ash extract and 7.4YR to 6.4YR by bean chaff ash extract with increase in mordant concentration. Pre-mordanted and post-mordanted fabrics with pyrolignite of iron were changed from 1.4YR to 1.1R and 7.2P to 4.2P, respectively.

• 한국자원식물학회지
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• 제19권2호
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• pp.243-247
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• 2006

천연 갈색 염모제를 개발하기 위하여 한국자생 거북꼬리 추출물로 염색한 머리카락의 염색성 조사와 함께 세정횟수에 따른 색깔변화를 화학 염모제로 염색한 머리카락과 비교하였다. 거북꼬리 추출물로 머리카락을 염색한 결과 대조구에 비해 ${\Delta}E$값이 11이상 나타났으며, 모두 YR계열로 염색이 되었다. 매염제 처리에 따른 ${\Delta}E$ 값은 사스레피나무 회즙을 사용했을 때 15.52로 가장 크게 나타났다. 거북꼬리 추출물로 머리카락을 염색 후 세정 횟수에 따른 L값은 사스레피나무 회즙처리구에서 가장 낮았고, a, b 및 $\Delta$ 값은 사스레피나무 회즙처리구에서 가장 높게 나타났다. 염색한 머리카락을 30회 세정한 결과 L값은 화학염모제로 염색한 머리카락 보다 거북꼬리 추출물(사스레피나무 회즙 매염)로 염색한 것에서 낮게 나타났다. 염색한 머리카락의 세정횟수에 따른 a, b, 및 ${\Delta}E$값의 변화는 화학염모제로 염색한 머리카락 보다 거북꼬리 추출물(사스레피나무 회즙 매염)로 염색한 것에서 적게 나타났다. 따라서 거북꼬리 추출물은 천연 갈색 염모제로서 실용성이 있는 것으로 나타났다.