• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.4
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• pp.13-24
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• 1981

The color yellow was considered from ancient time to the Chosun Dynasty as the central color. Thus, this color became the royal color for the costumes in the palace. It is generally known to usthat the color yellow was controled in use both for the general public and in the royal palaces. However, in the later part of Chosun Dynasty, the color yellow was used not only for the king's costumes but also used for women's tops and for the linings of clothing. Especially, in some of the costumes that belonged to the later period of the Chosun Dynasty, we can still see lots of bright yellow tops. Also there are many green dyed official robes and various costumes for women. It is a true fact that people could not derive the color green from the plants as they did with yellow. The only way they could make the color green was to mix indigo and yellow together. By repeating the difficult process of making various dyes constantly during many centuries, the Korean people developed the marvelous technique of making natural color. Those plants used to make the color yellow are ; Gardenia, Phellodendron amurense, Turmeric, Coptis, Safflower, Arthraxon hispidus, Styphnolobium japonicum. While synthetic dye causes pollution, natural coloring by plants is as safe and useful as the color itself is lovely. Yet it is tragic to know that this traditional culture of making beautiful natural colors was cut off. There is no way to know today the traditionally correct method to derive colors from the plants. Therefore, it is our aim and challenge to find out the original way to dye and develop it and preserve it as our non-polluted folk art. In regard to natural dyeing, we must say that is very difficult to prepare and preserve natural dyes. In the first place, people had to get the right plants at an appropriate time. Then they could not keep those plants too long. Finally, much depended upon the mordant as well as various conditions and dyeing procedures. All those things influenced greatly the quality of color, some times producing a very pretty color and other times a very dull one. It is very appropriate that the natural dye art should be recognized and appreciated anew by Korea since it provides satisfaction to historical and folk artistic demands as well as to those of fashion conscious modern society for high quality consumption items. We propose two stages of development. The first stage is to explore native dye plants and encourage their cultivation. The second stage is to extract from the plants desirable dye which will enhance national culture.

• Korean Journal of Plant Resources
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• v.18 no.1
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• pp.186-193
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• 2005

This study was conducted to clarify the effects of different natural mordants and mordanting methods on the dyeing degree of silk using extracts from Coreopsis drummondii. Surface colors were shown as an order of descent Y in control, and an order of descent Y and YR treated by mordants. Extracts from Coreopsis drummondii was sufficient for the natural dyestuffs. $10\%,\;20\%\;and\;30\%$ mordants made from lime-juice of Camellia japonica, oyster shells. and Symplocos chinensis (Lour) Druce for. pilosa (Nakai) Ohwi were used for the dyeing of silk. Surface color of silk was not affected by the concentration of mordants and mordanting methods, however, $20\%$ mordant was suitable for the dye coloring. It was shown that dye coloring concentrations were highly in the order of mordanting later > mordanting ahead > co-mordanting, and so on. Silks were naturally dyed by the extracts from Coreopsis drummondii, and twenty-nine kinds of natural mordants were treated and screened. Surface color of silk was shown as an order of descent YR treated by the mordants made from the lime-juice of Camellia japonica and Eurya japonica, and as an order of descent Y by the other mordants. By the treatment of natural mordants, concentrations of dye coloring were significantly increased compared with control (none-mordanting), and the potentials as a natural mordant for the effective dye coloring was sufficiently ascertained.

• Membrane and Water Treatment
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• v.1 no.1
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• pp.49-60
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• 2010

In this study, response surface methodology (RSM) was performed in NF membrane process to evaluate the separation efficiency of membrane in the removal of salt and reactive dye by varying different variables such as pressure, temperature, pH, dye concentration and salt concentration. The significant level of both the main effects and the interaction were observed by analysis of variance (ANOVA) approach. Based on the statistical analysis, the results have provided valuable information on the relationship between these variables and the performances of membrane. The rejection of salt was found to be greatly influenced by pressure, pH and salt concentration whereas the dye rejection was relatively constant in between 96.22 and 99.43% regardless of the changes in the variables. The water flux on the other hand was found to be affected by the pressure and salt concentration. It is also found that the model predictions were in good agreement with the experimental data, indicating the validity of these models in predicting membrane performances prior to the real filtration process.

• Textile Coloration and Finishing
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• v.28 no.4
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• pp.290-298
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• 2016

In this study, the efficacy of water lily(Nymphaea tetragona) leaves as a new natural dye resource was investigated. For this purpose, the colorants from water lily leaves were extracted in methanol, evaporated, and powdered. Dyeing onto cotton fiber was carried out to study the effects of dyeing conditions, mordant type and mordanting method on dye uptake, color change, and colorfastness. FTIR analysis supported that hydrolyzable tannins and chrolophyll were contained in the extracted colorants. The colorants showed good affinity to cotton fiber showing Y Munsell color. Pre-mordanting method gave better results in terms of dye uptake than post-mordanting method. By mordanting, dyed fabrics exhibited various colors such as green, khaki, brownish yellow, dark brown, dark gray and so on. Colorfastness to washing and rubbing was relatively good showing 4-5 rating. The light fastness was improved 1-2 rating by Fe mordanting. The dyed cotton fabric showed antimicrobial activity.

• Journal of Sericultural and Entomological Science
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• v.37 no.2
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• pp.161-166
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• 1995

Safflower is natural red dye largely used for dyeing on protein and cellulose fabric. It contains safflower yellow and carthamin red. Safflower yellow is water-soluble dye, while carthamin red is soluble in alkaline condition. Therefore the former was extracted by cold water. Cartamon obtained by adding acidic solution to carthamin red shows the original hue of safflower. In this study, the condition of extraction with bean stem ash solution and dyeing behavior of carthamon in safflower were examined by using the traditional dyeing method. The relationship between the dye-uptake(K/S) of silk and ramie fabric and the various extractions and dyeing conditions was investigated.

• Journal of Korea Technical Association of The Pulp and Paper Industry
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• v.32 no.3
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• pp.48-56
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• 2000

Yellow dye-stuffs in natural plant were extracted from a gardenia, saffron, safflower, amur tree and pagoda. And then they were used to color Korean handmade paper(Hanji) on using a mordant. The results of the degree of discoloration are as follows. 1. As for a gardenia(Gardenia jasminodes Ellis for. grandiflora Makino), the effects of coloring were outstanding in the acid area. But for the preservation, it might be desirable that used a lye in a dye-stuff obtained at $40{\pm}5^{\circ}C$. 2. As for saffron(Curcuma longa L.), when used alum as a mordant, it was colored to a medium yellow color with green color. But easily discolorated and was not desirable. And, it didn't fit in a dye-stuff of Hanji. 3. For safflower(Carthamus tinctorius L.), when pH was in the low acid it was colored to the cleaner yellow color. It was the distinction of discoloration that the degree of brightness's increase was low. 4. For amur cork-tree(Phellodendron amurense Rupr.), the effects of yellow coloring were great in the areas of acidity and alkali. But, when used alum, the degree of the discoloration was high and was not effective. 5. For pagoda tree(Styphnolobium Japonica L.), using a calcium hydroxide as a mordant, enabled the more than average yellow to be gained. The degree of discoloration was good.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.38 no.5
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• pp.755-768
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• 2014

This study explores the situation of domestic production and import of dyes as well as type of dye supplier and type of dyer in the Joseon Dynasty based on an analysis of relevant documents. The findings are as follows. Many kinds of natural dyes and natural mordant were produced in the Joseon Dynasty. Some were imported from other countries when in short supply or for diplomatic reasons. As the government organization in charge of the dyes supply and demand, the Jeyonggam was cooperated with the Gongin merchants. As private merchants, there existed Hwapijeon merchants and Cheongramgye merchants. Cheongramgye merchants were both the producer and the seller of indigo sediment. There existed two types of dyers, such as government-operated dyers and private dyers. The Yeomjang (master dyers) and Yeommo (female dyers) were subjugated to government departments in the early part of Joseon Dynasty, but gradually allowed to pursue self-profit. The Yeomga was the private dye house that existed in the early period of the Joseon Dynasty. Ladies and female servants were also allowed to dye for family use or to help in livelihoods. Jeonyeomga was a branch specialized in indigo dyeing. Lastly, the Yoemgye were the merchants of dyed paper and textiles as well as dyers.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.18 no.5
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• pp.69-81
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• 2014

Fabric made of 100% silk was dyed with Undaria pinnatifida extracts under different conditions such as varing colorant concentration, temperature, time and dyebath pH. The dye uptake (K/S, value), CIE L*,a*,b* and Munsell values of the dyed samples and mordanted samples were measured. Colorfastness, antibacterial property and UV protection property were also evaluated. As colorants concentration increased, the dye uptake increased progressively and maximum color strength was obtained at 100% V/V. Dye uptake also increased with increasing temperature and time, and the maximum color strength was obtained at $80^{\circ}C$ and 60min. With pre-mordanting, the color of the Al and Fe mordanted silk fabrics was yellow on the Munsell color system, while the Cu mordanted fabric was a greenish color. Al and Fe post-mordanted fabrics had a yellow tone, and the Cu post-mordanted fabric had a yellow greenish tone. The light fastness property of the Cu mordanted silk fabric was relatively good, The effect of Al and Fe mordanting on fastness was insignificant. The antibacterial activity of dyed and unmordanted silk fabric was excellent, whereas fabric dyed and mordanted with Undaria pinnatifida extract demonstrated superior ultraviolet protection.

• Textile Coloration and Finishing
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• v.24 no.3
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• pp.189-195
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• 2012

The purpose of this study was to investigate the possibility of bamboo extract as natural dye having the effect on atopic dermatitis(AD). To investigate the effect of bamboo extract on AD in vivo, we applied bamboo extract to the AD-like skin lesion the backs of atopic of NC/Nga mice, an animal model of AD. NC/Nga mice were challenged with DNCB(2.4-Dinitrochlorbenzene) to develope AD-like skin lesions. The efficacy of bamboo extract in the NC/Nga mice was evaluated by measurement of the skin lesion severity(NC mouse score), the serum IgE level, epidermal thickness changes, and mast cell number. Bamboo extracts improved skin lesions in NC/Nga mice. The serum IgE levels were decreased after treatment with bamboo extract. Histological examinations revealed a decrease in epidermal thickness and mast cell number after treatment with bamboo extract. To conclude, the topical application of bamboo extract suppressed the progression of AD-like skin lesions.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.24 no.6
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• pp.817-824
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• 2016

The introduction of natural dyes into modern dye houses is very promising green chemistry concept that should be popularized more to reduce the dependency of leather dyeing on some toxic and non-biodegradable synthetic dyes. In this study, the properties of dyeing of cochineal on cow leather were evaluated. The proper dyeing conditions were identified with dye uptake (K/S values) depending on the colorant concentration, dyeing duration, dyeing temperature, and dye bath pH. For the proper mordanting conditions, color changes for different mordants were observed as $La^{*}b^{*}$ and H V/C values. Color fastness (light, rubbing, and dry cleaning) was also examined. Additionally, antibacterial properties and UV protection were examined. The results were as follows: The optimized dyeing conditions were 300% o.w.f., $40^{\circ}C$, 40 min., and pH 5. The cow leather color was red in the absence of mordanting, while it was red purple after being mordanted with Al and Cu, and purple mordanted with Fe. The K/S value of cow leathers increased in the order of the dyeing using $AlK(SO_4)_2$ > $CuSO_4$ > $FeSO_4$. The colorfastness to light and rubbing were reduced compared to original (untreated) cow leather. However dry cleaning fastness was very satisfactory, with a 4~5 rating. The dyed and pre-mordanting dyed cow leather showed excellent antibacterial properties.