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Study on the Evolution of the Traditional-Style Soryebok in Korean Modern Dress (개항기 전통식 소례복 연구)

  • Lee, Kyung-Mee
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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    • v.64 no.4
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    • pp.162-175
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    • 2014
  • This study focuses on Korea's traditional-style soryebok, in terms of its foundation, progression, and structural features. The research methods employed here include literature analyses of relevant laws and an official daily gazette, and practical analyses of artifacts and photographic documents. Especially, the artifacts of heukdannyeong(black uniform for officials with a round neck) in the form of chaksu(tight sleeves) were examined, which was regulated as soryebok in Eulmiuijegaehyeok. The term "soryebok" firstly appeared in "使和記略"(Sahwagiryak) written by Park Yeong-hyo, a foreign envoy to Japan, in 1882. Emperor's invitation written in the book asked him to wear daeryebok at the ritual and soryebok to the banquet. Soryebok was not adopted in Gapshinuijegaehyeok in 1884. However, several illustrated documents of the modern banquets at that time reveal that sabok, which was included in the 1884 reform, was used as soryebok. According to the Gapouijegaehyeok in December 1894, courtiers were required to wear heukdannyeong as daeryebok, and add juui(topcoat) and dapho(sleeveless coat) as tongsangyebok when they visited the royal palace. In Joseon's first daeryebok system, the term "tongsangyebok" that had been used in Japan was employed before soryebok was used. According to Eulmiuijegaehyeok in August 1895, the term "soryebok" originated from a costume ritual for courtiers of the Joseon Dynasty. Soryebok featured heokbannyeong chaksupo, samo (winged hat for officials), sokdae(belt), and hwaja (shoes for officials). There are around 24 artifact pieces of heukdannyeong in the form of chaksu(tight sleeves) in the following locations: garments of Prince Heungwangun and Wansungun, the court artifacts, Korea University Museum, Yun Ung-ryeol's family housed at Yonsei University, and Kyungwoon Museum. Artifacts have mu(godet) pulled back and a topcoat-like triangular mu. In conclusion, heukdannyeong, traditional-style soryebok has significance in the history of modern dress because streamlined traditional clothes and newly introduced Western dress system were able to be combined.

A Study of Fashion Cultural Products Based on the Motif of Traditional Beoseon Socks (전통버선의 형태를 모티브로 한 패션문화상품 디자인 연구)

  • Kim, Sun-Young
    • The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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    • v.19 no.6
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    • pp.1334-1346
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    • 2011
  • This study focused on the beoseon, traditional Korean socks that are a fashion item showcasing the beauty of the round hanbok shape. The study utilized the beoseon as an influential design motif and suggested 24 cultural fashion items to which the beoseon can be applied, including neckties, scarves, and T-shirts. For the purposes of this study, Adobe Illustrator CS3 and Adobe Photoshop CS3 were used for the motif design as well as the literature review on traditional beoseon socks. For the basic design motif, two basic forms were taken from the collection of the National Folk Museum of Korea. The key point of the motif development is that it maintains the basic shape of the beoseon but highlights the attractiveness of the Korean image by using repetition, rotation, symmetry and overlap into a new image pattern so that modern and chic images were taken into consideration for each cultural product. For the necktie, the mixed or repeated patterns for each motif were used as is. Alternatively, an oblique line pattern was adopted to express a stable and stylish image. For the T-shirt, a round-neck sleeveless type was designed. T-shirts were unified in the white color to highlight the image from the pattern. For the scarf, two shapes were displayed, square and rectangle. Through mixture of two repeated variation unit patterns for each motif, a splendid and stylish image was revealed along with various layouts.

A Study on Nail Art Design by Application of the Plant Patterns of the Wadang in the Unified Silla Period (통일신라시대 와당의 식물 문양을 응용한 네일아트 디자인 연구)

  • Cho, Han-Sol
    • Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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    • v.24 no.3
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    • pp.159-168
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    • 2022
  • With the recent proliferation of Hallyu content, national interest in Korea and the demand for designs with traditional Korean patterns as a motif is on the rise. In addition, as customers' design requirements tend to value more and more detailed and differentiated handcrafted designs, research on the motifs used in nail experts' original nail design development and nail design is continuously needed. Therefore, the purpose of this study is to expand the scope of nail design motifs with high practical value by producing nail design works applying plant patterns of Wadang, used during the Unified Silla Period, and to diversify nail art expression techniques. The research reviewed domestic and foreign literature related to Wadang during the Unified Silla Period, analyzed the collection at the National Museum of Korea, and categorized the motifs based on the characteristics of plant patterns and Wadang during the Unified Silla Period. The tangible motifs are intended to be presented as a fusion of nail art design works that utilizes both flat and stereoscopic art techniques. Through this study, it was confirmed that the plant pattern of Wadang from the Unified Silla Period is an attractive motif that can be expressed in various nail designs expressing Korean emotions and traditional beauty, and furthermore, it can be used as basic data for the idea of various beauty design areas.

A Study on the Door Discovered at the Shinchang-dong Wetland Site (광주(光州) 신창동(新昌洞) 저습지출토(低濕地出土) 나무문짝(비문(扉門))에 관한 연구(硏究))

  • Cheon, Deuk-Youm;Shin, Sang-Hyo
    • Journal of architectural history
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    • v.15 no.5
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    • pp.7-18
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    • 2006
  • A lot of relics were unearthed in the Shinchang-dong wetland site, which can help restore prehistoric life style, including construction tools such as wood doors, wood hammers, ax handgrips, sickle handgrips, wedges, awls, wood pillars and connection members, food vessels made of earth or wood and fish, shell fish, seeds and remains of weapons. In particular, a door was found in the site, which was measured at 110cm long and 37cm wide. If restored it will be 75cm wide. The door seems to date back as far as the 1st century B. C., which would be the oldest one ever discovered in Korea. This paper is intended to explore the implications of the door by investigating the environment of the Shinchang-dong wetland site bearing the relics intact, manufacturing techniques and times of manufacturing of the door as well as attributes of doors presented in the literature related to old time architecture such as Goguryeo tomb paintings and house-shaped vessels. It also intends to provide basic data for study of residential architecture in prehistoric times.

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Component Analysis and Reproduction of a Brown Solid Cosmetic Excavated from Tomb of Princess Hwahyeop (화협옹주 출토 화장품(갈색 고체) 성분 분석 및 재현연구)

  • Lee, Chaehoon;You, Song-e;Lee, Hanhyoung;Kim, Hyoyun;Kim, Seongmi;Chung, Yongjae
    • Journal of Conservation Science
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    • v.36 no.5
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    • pp.430-439
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    • 2020
  • This study focused on analyzing solid brown cosmetic residues that were excavated from the tomb of the Hwahyeop princess. The cosmetics had been buried in 1752 in Cheonghwa Baekja (small porcelain jars) within a Huigwakham (a stone box sealed with lime). A literature search and chemical analyses of the relics were conducted at the National Palace Museum of Korea. Based on the results of these analyses, raw materials and manufacturing methods for reproduction of the cosmetic were selected and then cream-form cosmetics were prepared. Aging tests using heat, ultraviolet (UV) radiation, and CO2 were carried out to emulate the deterioration of the excavated cosmetics. Further chemical analyses and functionality tests were performed to evaluate changes from the tests and the effect as a cosmetic. As heat aging progressed, among the reproduced cosmetics, the one which has a high proposition of oil showed a color difference value of 32; the oxidation of oils involved chemical changes in O-H and C=C groups. As the cosmetic cream deteriorated under UV aging, the pH value became acidic. The result of the functional coverage test of the reproduced cosmetic cream was lower than the standard coverage ratio of modern cosmetics.

Lithological Characteristics and Provenance Consideration on the Jade Investiture Books of Joseon Dynasty in National Palace Museum of Korea (국립고궁박물관 소장 조선왕조 옥책의 암석학적 특징과 산지검토)

  • Lee, Chan Hee;Park, Jun Hyoung
    • Economic and Environmental Geology
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    • v.52 no.5
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    • pp.485-497
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    • 2019
  • The Jade Investiture Books in Joseon Dynasty shows diverse facies with various petrographic characteristics to green and white based on color. In lithologically, the green rocks are jade composed of calcite and serpentine, and the white ones are marbles consisting mainly in crystalline calcite. As a result of X-ray diffraction of jade rocks, the more green in color, the more increased intensity of serpentine appears. Therefore, the grade of jade is correlated with contents of serpentine. The Jade Investiture Books owned by the National Palace Museum of Korea are subdivided with 104 (41.3%) books made by only jade rocks, 98 (38.9%) books made by only marbles, and 50 (19.8%) books mixed with jade rocks and marbles. Among the mixed ones, 47 (18.6%) books consisted mainly of the marbles. This result shows the superior marble books occupy more than half of the total books. The Jade Investiture Books made in early Joseon Dynasty are composed of high grade jade. However, the grade of jade had decreased as the kings changed in process of time, and the composition of marble had increased in reverse proportion of jade. The quality of letter pigments, metal accessories and fabrics also had decreased with jade. These trends are reflected in the aspect of society such as weakening royal authority, national power and finance with the course of time. The jade of the books has different mineralogical characteristics from some modern jade produced in Chuncheon nephrite and Buyeo precious serpentine in Korea. Meanwhile, there is ancient literature that described quarries from Namyang in Hwaseong of Gyeonggi province. This area has a wide distribution of gneiss, limestone and limesilicate rocks are interbedded between muscovite schist. The limesilicate rocks contain diopside, which produced serpentine through alteration. It has possibility to make the Jade Investiture Books using these small amounts of jade through mining activity.

Kim Taek-yeong's Return to Korea in 1909 and Scholar Byeoksu in a Pavilion by An Jung-sik (김택영(金澤榮)의 1909년 귀국(歸國)과 안중식(安中植) 필(筆) <벽수거사정도(碧樹居士亭圖)>)

  • Kang, MinKyeong
    • MISULJARYO - National Museum of Korea Art Journal
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    • v.99
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    • pp.30-49
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    • 2021
  • Scholar Byeoksu in a Pavilion by An Jung-sik (1861-1919; sobriquet: Simjeon) was first shown to the public in the exhibition Art of the Korean Empire: The Emergence of Modern Art at the National Museum of Modern and Contemporary Art, Deoksugung. This painting bears poems and inscriptions composed by Kim Taek-yeong (1850-1927; sobriquet: Changgang) and written by Kwon Dong-su (1842-?; sobriquet: Seokun). A rare example of an actual-view landscape painting by An Jung-sik, this painting is significant in that it depicts upper-class houses in Seoul in the early twentieth century. More importantly, it demonstrates an association among intellectuals of the time. Yun Deok-yeong (1873-1940; sobriquet: Byeoksu), who asked An Jung-sik to create this painting, was an uncle of Empress Sunjeonghyo (1894-1966), the consort of Emperor Sunjong. He was one of the most prominent collaborators who promoted the Japanese colonization of Korea. When Emperor Sunjong bestowed Yun Deok-yeong with a hanging board with an inscription reading "Scholar Byeoksu in a Pavilion," Yun requested the production of this painting to mark the event. Kim Taek-yeong, a master of Chinese literature during the late Korean Empire period, sought asylum in Nantong, Jiangsu Province in China with his family a month before the Protectorate Treaty was signed between Korea and Japan in 1905. In 1909, he returned to Korea. His decision to return was greatly influenced by Yun Deok-yeong and Yi Jae-wan (1855-1922). Upon his return, Kim Taek-yeong intended to gather materials for publishing a history book. Also, Kim continuously met his old acquaintances, made new friends, and socialized with them. He built relationships with people from various backgrounds, including those living in regions like Gurye, and even in other countries like Japan. This indicates that intellectuals of the time were still forming networks through poems and prose regardless of their political inclination, social rank, or nationality. Scholar Byeoksu in a Pavilion is of great value in that it shows an aspect of the intellectual exchanges among the learned people of the late nineteenth and early twentieth centuries.

A Study on an Analysis and Design of the Internal Structure of Heumgyeonggak-nu

  • Kim, Sang Hyuk;Yun, Yong-Hyun;Ham, Seon Young;Mihn, Byeong-Hee;Ki, Ho-Chul;Yoon, Myung-Kyoon
    • Journal of Astronomy and Space Sciences
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    • v.34 no.2
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    • pp.171-182
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    • 2017
  • In this study, the internal structure of a Heumgyeonggak-nu (欽敬閣漏) was designed, and the power transmission mechanism was analyzed. Heumgyeonggak-nu is an automated water clock from the Joseon Dynasty that was installed within Heumgyeonggak (欽敬閣), and it was manufactured in the $20^{th}$ year of the reign of King Sejong (1438). As descriptions of Heumgyeonggak-nu in ancient literature have mostly focused on its external shape, the study of its internal mechanism has been difficult. A detailed analysis of the literature record on Heumgyeonggak-nu (e.g., The Annals of the Joseon Dynasty) indicates that Heumgyeonggak-nu had a three-stage water clock, included a waterfall or tilting vessel (欹器) using the overflowed water, and displayed the time using a ball. In this study, the Cheonhyeong apparatus, water wheel, scoop, and various mechanism wheels were designed so that 16 fixed-type scoops could operate at a constant speed for the water wheel with a diameter of 100 cm. As the scoop can contain 1.25 l of water and the water wheel rotates 61 times a day, a total of 1,220 l of water is required. Also, the power gear wheel was designed as a 366-tooth gear, which supported the operation of the time signal gear wheel. To implement the movement of stars on the celestial sphere, the rotation ratio of the celestial gear wheel to the diurnal motion gear ring was set to 366:365. In addition, to operate the sun movement apparatus on the ecliptic, a gear device was installed on the South Pole axis. It is expected that the results of this study can be used for the manufacture and restoration of the operation model of Heumgyeonggak-nu.

A Study on the Aspect of Space Change to Seokpajeong garden(石坡亭) in the Late Joseon Dynasty (조선후기 원림 석파정(石坡亭)의 공간변화양상에 관한 고찰)

  • Lee, Won-Ho;Kim, Dong-Hyun;Kim, Jae-Ung;Choi, Jong-Hee
    • Journal of the Korean Institute of Traditional Landscape Architecture
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    • v.33 no.1
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    • pp.31-40
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    • 2015
  • This study aims to comprehend that Seokpajeong garden for aspect of space change. Spatial characteristics according to the transfer of ownership are classified as period. And investigate the aspect of space change in Seokpajeong garden based on literature and painting, newspaper, photo. The results were as follows. First, Investigate the construction and change of Seokpajeong garden. Accordingly, spatial characteristics of Seokpajeong garden are classified into three period. 1st period is Kim-Heung Keun owned Samgyedong-jungsa garden. 2nd period is Daewongun hold Seokpajeong garden. 3rd period is damaged original form of Seokpajeong garden from Korean War to current time inclusive. Secondly, Kim-Heung Keun owned Samgyedong-jungsa garden has characteristics of water system centric space and many buildings. In addition accept foreign culture like chinese pavilion and Byeoldang Villa. and plant unique flower and leaf in garden. Thirdly, According to Seokpajeong garden folding screen, Daewongun owned Seokpajeong garden accept organization of space in Samgyedong garden. But different locations of Sarangchae in folding screen means possibility of move building to current position. So, additional historical research is required with representation of chinese pavilion location. Fourthly, Seokpajeong garden was damaged from original form to frequent changes of ownership. Transform of geographical features and water system as well as Anchae and Sarangchae, back side of a outbuilding are only the remained among many buildings. Also, Seokpajeong garden is more fell to the subsidiary facility of Seoul Museum than Wonrim. Therefore restoration and recovery of original form are urgent.

The Development and Application of an Astronomy Education Program Reflecting Astronomical Thinking: A Case of Planetarium Class at Science Museum (천문학적 사고를 반영한 천문교육 프로그램의 개발 및 적용: 과학관 천체 투영관 수업 사례)

  • Choi, Joontae;Lee, Kiyoung;Park, Jaeyong
    • Journal of the Korean earth science society
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    • v.40 no.1
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    • pp.86-106
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    • 2019
  • The purpose of this study is to develop an astronomy education program reflecting astronomical thinking to be used at science museum and to investigate the effect of the program on the improvement of astronomical thinking ability of high school students. After selecting the components of astronomical thinking through literature studies, we developed an astronomy education program consisting of four stages: demonstration and observation, and question and thinking, support and group discussion, demonstration and assessment. In order to verify the effectiveness of the program, we conducted a covariance analysis on the pre- and post-tests of the experimental group and control group to examine the level of students' thinking before and after using the program in teaching and learning. As a result, it was confirmed that the astronomy education program reflecting astronomical thinking was effective in promoting students' astronomical thinking ability. In particular, this program was effective in enhancing the ability of modeling by reconstructing the observed astronomical phenomenon from the viewpoint of the universe with respect to spatial thinking in the astronomy domain. It was also effective to improve the ability of organizing the system by grasping the relationship between the elements constituting the astronomical system in relation to the system thinking in the astronomy domain. This study is significant in suggesting a specific teaching and learning program to develop students' astronomical thinking.