• 역사민속학
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• 제45호
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• pp.7-50
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• 2014

본 연구는 조선 초기 흉례(凶禮)의 정비 과정이라는 연속선상에서 원경왕후 국상을 하나의 기점으로 파악하고 그 특징을 상제(喪制)의 변화 및 의식 절차의 분석을 통해 제시하는데 목적이 있다. 세종 2년 발생한 태종 비(妃) 원경왕후의 국상은 조선에서 국왕이 상주(喪主)가 되어 진행하는 삼년상(三年喪)의 의식 절차가 정비되어, 그 의주가 실록에 기재된 최초의 사례였다. 국상 복제 논의에서는 기존에 행해오던 역월제를 탈피하여 졸곡의 의미가 강조되었다. 기존의 도감 운영 체계를 정리하여 빈전 국장 산릉 3도감만을 운영하게 되었으며, 불교 관련 의례는 대폭 축소 규제되게 되었다. 삼년상 기간 동안 국왕의 친행을 고려한 의식 절차도 새롭게 정비되었다. 의식의 기본 패턴은 배례(拜禮) 곡(哭)-행례(行禮)-배례(拜禮) 곡(哭)로 이루어졌는데 우제(虞祭)를 기점으로 전(奠)과 제(祭)로 구분되었다. 이는 태종대 길례 의식의 정비가 이루어진 바탕에서 고제(古制)에 기반한 '전(奠)'과 제(祭)'의 이해가 반영된 결과였다. 그리고 이러한 패턴을 기준으로 개별 의식 절차의 분석을 행하였다. 이를 통해 원경왕후 국상에서 국왕이 친행하는 실질적인 삼년상 실행을 위한 상장 제도 및 의식 절차의 제정과, 그 바탕이 된 고제의 이해 수용 수준을 확인할 수 있었다.

• 복식
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• 제14권
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• pp.75-85
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• 1990

The dress and personal adorments of Chi Li in Li Chi was investigated in this study. The summary of this study is as follows: It was found that the ancient Chinese used their dress and personal adornments as an important means of maintaining or establishing harmony with the universe, supernaturals, and human beings. It also appeared that dress was used to control man's psychology and to maintain social order. Differentiation of person's social status and position was made by using dress and personal adornments. Ceremonial costume such as mourning appeared considerably in Chi Li.

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제6권2호
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• pp.144-152
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• 2004

In this study, the settlement of this etiquette book and the five-class mourning-costume system throughout two dynasties is examined and analyzed.; According to the Chosun dynasty's efforts to practice Chu-Ja-Ga-Rye(朱子家禮, Chu Hsi's Book of Family Rituals) through legal intensification and enlightenment policies, the book's teachings had a general effect on society at large. As a result, the family system and funeral rites turned Confucian from a Shaman-Buddhist mixture. As the Confucian order was strengthened to highlight the authority of the male family head, the funeral rituals were based on Chu Hsi's Book of Family Rituals. So, the 100-day funeral of Koryo turned into the 3-year funeral in the Chosun dynasty. Also, the main and father's lines were valued, while the mother's and wife's lines were neglected. Even though there was no great difference of status or place between males and females in the Koryo dynasty, the settlement of Chu-Ja-Ga-Rye brought about the drop of women's status as they gradually began to be dependent on men.

• 한국의상디자인학회지
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• 제26권1호
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• pp.77-98
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• 2024

The mourning attire worn by the Sangju (Chief Mourner) during Confucian funeral rituals is known as Gulgeonjebok. It is comprised of Gulgeon, Sujil, and Hyogeon on the head, and Jungui underneath. On top of the Jungui, the ceremonial garments called Choeui are worn, along with Choesang. Yojil and Gyodae are then tied around the waist. Mahye and Hangieon are worn on the feet, and a walking stick made of bamboo, paulownia, or willow is carried. A needlework master, Choe Onsun, who was designated as a Holder of Intangible Cultural Property of Jeollabuk-do on November 27, 1998, is recognized for her efforts in restoring and recreating the forgotten Gulgeonjebok. Thanks to her endeavors, the period, regional, and cultural characteristics of Gulgeonjebok in the Jeolla Province have been preserved. This study aims to examine and reproduce characteristic items of Gulgeonjeboks handed down by a needlework master, Choe, by conducting an empirical study on the dimensions and schematization of the Gulgeon, the method of cutting, and the sewing process. The empirical research on Gulgeojebok is expected to further enhance traditional sewing skills. It will also serve as a foundation for deepening the level of research on traditional dress and sharing traditional cultural heritage.

• 복식
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• 제30권
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• pp.295-306
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• 1996

A large quantity of exhumed clothing found for recent 20 years has becom-e the material for making a concrete clarification of the structure of clothing in the Chosun dynasty. Exhumed clothing means the clothing found in the coffin when the grave of the ancestor buried several hundred several hundred years ago is removed to another pla-ce and it is almost comprised of ordinary clothes of the grave-owner not mourning clothes as well as clothing and ornaments in the period between the 15th cen-tury and th 19th century. This research is intended to inquire into the kind of chimas in the 16th century before the Imjin Japancese Invasion of Korea during 1592-1598. The after effect of the Imjin Japanese In-vasion was generally reflected in clothing them and the structure of clothing in the Chosun dynasty began to overshadew its di-chotomy with the Imjin Japanese I vasion of Korea as the point. Accordingly this research is concerned with the study of the chima system of the early Chosun dynasty which shows that there is a common point of the identical form though clothing was exhumed in different graves. Therefore it was possible to grasp women's clothing that was fashionable at that time The object for research is the women in the upper class of the 16th century whose representative characteristics are depicted as follows: 1. Women in the upper class wore the splendid clothing similar to the ordinary clothing of court ladies. 2. The division of ordinary chima and ceremonial chima appeared in the concrete. 3. Ceremonial chima had its extra width and length and exhibited its exaggerated silhouette. in particular it had a various forms of over-pleats made at its center front which play a role in supplementing discomfort in walking. This associate bustle and crinolin styles through which the modern design of clothing can be glimpsed. 4. The opposite phenomenon was shown that has been perceived up to now such as folding at the right plain seam the treatment of the edge-and the like. 5. The elaboration of manual needlework shows the culmination of women's workmanship.

• 패션비즈니스
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• 제1권1호
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• pp.110-126
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• 1997

This dissertation intended to investigate the black color as a fashion color of the late 20th century and the aesthetic consciousness of black fashion. Black usually expressed a negative meaning, and was regarded as a color for a mourning and a sacred dress in western culture. There found several periods of black trend specially after 14th century. Black was considered as a traditional color of men's fashion since Dandyism. By the effect of art d co fashion, the perception toward black changed to a new beauty in 20th century. There continuously found a lot of aspects of black fashion in the late 20th century. In the high fashion, popularity of black, could be seen at five different look and style : The era of line alphabet, pantaloons suit style, folklore style, mannish look and unconstructive design by Japanese, and in street fashion, it showed at four different style and fashion: Beat style, mods and rockers style, punk fashion and fetish fashion. The aesthetic consciousness of black fashion at the late 20th century mentioned above should be summarized as follows. : Minimalism, dandyism, nihilism, asceticism, eroticism. In 1990s, the black appeared under the retro mood, and it should be regarded specially as one fashion trend of inclination of simplicity. Black should be called the representative color of 20th century fashion with the reason of containing the most of aesthetic consciousness in modern fashion.

• 복식
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• 제64권1호
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• pp.152-164
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• 2014

Korean people have revered the white color and enjoyed wearing white clothes. Various kinds of white clothes have been worn by the Korean people, ranging from everyday wear(便服), and scholar's robe(深衣) for the upper class, to religious costumes like Buddhist monk's robe(僧服), shaman costumes(巫服) and costumes for ancestral rites(祭服), or mourning(喪服). There have been many differing opinions by historians regarding the background of this Baekeuihosang(白衣好尙, the preference for white clothing) tradition and even now, it is frequently being discussed. This study aims to consider and discuss the background of this Baekeuihosang tradition, focusing on Chang-seon Yoo's Baekeuigo(白衣考, the consideration of white clothing), which was published in Dong-A Ilbo in 1934. The purposes of studying literature such as the Baekeuigo is to analyze the arguments on the origin of Baekeuihosang, to analyze Chang-seon Yoo's claim of its origin, and to discuss the culture of Baekeuihosang. Chang-seon Yoo claimed that the existing discussions on the background of Baekeuihosang based on the lack of dyes, or undeveloped technique, economic privation and national control strayed from historical facts, according to literature review. It is not worth discussing the farfetched arguments such as the use of costumes for ancestral rites as everyday wears, or the nation of sorrow. Baekeuihosang tradition mostly originated from the effects of many religions and the taste for innocence, or naturalness. White clothes were infused with the sorrow and emotion of Korean people and were also worn to show resistance to foreign power as symbols of ethnicity. Therefore, there should be a new view of the discussion of white clothes and Korean aesthetic sense, away from the logic distorted by the Japanese colonial view of history.

• 복식
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• 제56권6호
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• pp.33-44
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• 2006

With the basis of objective truth by the subjective sensibility and the Rock art's history and the molding the Rock arts image motive, the conclusion like this; The first, Rock art express the imagination variety as symbols of abundance, fecundity, stable lift's present mourning and absolute respect and the spirit. The second, the new motives are developed by making formative images with deeply understanding essential side in the Rock arts. With this, the pattern is repeated with making motive's repeat units and the new pattern is developed by 45-angle iteration. These cultural products were used to produce necktie, scarf, and clothing making commonly efficient use in actual life- with 3D simulation. Through developing Rock art pattern, it is great the possibility of development for expressing Korea images with making an excavation. A competitive design as to the international period can be developed with applying to the variety department-cultural products development.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제12권1호
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• pp.1-11
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• 1988

This study dealt with the Dopo, one of the representative ceremonial dress that acclasical scholar used after the middle of the period of the Chosun dynasty. This study represents the period of Dopo's formation and its origin, and the characteristics of the weary of Dopo in Young Dong Province Area is arranged by folkloric method on the base of the exisitng facilities. Dopo has worn since the middle of the period of the Chosun dynasty. It is the kind of Jig young Po that its back is cuffed for convenience and has another cloth as a ceremonial dress. It is thought to be one of the national customs pos formed by the mixture of the big sleeve type which is influenced by confusion life feeling. It seemed that the name of DoPo comes from the Jigchal, an ordinary dress of a high official in China, which is call Dopo. This Dopo is changed and received and so disappeared but it is still used such as ceremonial dress, the necessary articles for marriage of the bride, a bridegroom's liturgical vestments of a memorial service held on the anniversary of the death of a person, mourning dress and a shroud grave clothes. This area has different characters on wearing customs. It is changed into the kind of Dopo, with its back not cutting. The hemp sack is almost used as its subject matter. It doesn't have collar strip for the classification of one's family in any case, and Dopo which is prepared for necessary articles for marriage can not be taken tack after seperating by divorce.

• 복식
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• 제54권4호
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• pp.41-53
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• 2004

The significant role of colors in fashion design is not enough to emphasize in terms of one of the important design elements and its influences on the behaviors of the people. The purpose of this research is to examine the traditional Chinese colors and its ways of color combinations to appreciate the Chinese culture and its people. The Chinese traditional costume of Ching Dynasty were investigated through historic records, historic nobles, costume accessories and so on. The results of the study were summarized as follows： (1) The Blue was the most favoured color for clothing among men and women during Ching dynasty and various blues in terms of hue, value and intensities were used. (2) The bright Yellow which had been a symbol of Emperor were prohibited being used among people. Though, the late period of Dynasty, the regulation became not to strict and various shades of yellow families were adapted among People. (3) The Red which had been preferred during Ming Dynasty were constantly favoured for the formal wears of auspicious events such as weddings. (4) Dark color groups were loved for the clothing which were used as a ground colors against the flamboyant patterns revealing strong visual effects through value contrast or primary color combinations. (5) The White had a symbol of mourning and there were some intentions to adopt pale color groups such as mint, jade, gray, moon whit,. silver white to make up for white. (6) Contrast color combinations were one of the basic ways of color combination in Chinese traditional costume. Therefore Chinese color combinations has a strong visual effect and easy to draw attention of people by the contrast of the hue, value or intensity of color. (7) Multi-color combinations were another characteristics of Chinese costume in the formal wears which bears many surface designs. The surface decorated with full of motifs, were appreciated by the people expressing their longings and hopes through the auspicious meanings of patterns and striking visual effects of color combinations.