• Proceedings of the SCSK Conference
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• 2003.09b
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• pp.149-162
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• 2003

Moisturizing the skin is one of the most important functions of skincare cosmetics, because water plays a significant role in keeping the skin healthy. There are various humectants including polyol (glycerin and 1,3-butylene glycol), water-soluble polymers, and botanical extracts. It is well known that the increased amount of polyol in lotion for obtaining high moisturizing effect gives a sticky feeling to the skin. Therefore, a few humectants that can give high moisturizing effect without a sticky feeling for lotion formula is available. On the other hand, oil-based lipstick is well known to have a difficulty to contain a large amount of hydrophilic humectants, because the humectants is unable to be mixed well into oil-based lipsticks and give the lips a peculiar taste. There are newly developed humectants, polyoxyethylene/polyoxypropylene dimethyl ether (EPDME) that can solve these problems describable above. EPDME is a random copolymer of ethylene oxide and propylene oxide. EPDME gives a low sticky feeling with a high moisturizing effect when it is used in lotion. As a remarkable character, EPDME can show not only a preventing effect on rough and dry skin, but also a improving effect upon the use for 1-4 weeks. EPDME can show a synergistic effect with glycerin on preventing to rough and dry skin. Since EPDME can be dissolved in oil-based formulation and used as an ingredient of lipsticks, EPDME can give a moisturizing effect that allows lip to be healthy condition. EPDME can also give no peculiar taste even upon the use of a large amount. EPDME is a useful cosmetic ingredient that can show a good skin care effect in both water-based formula and oil-based formula. EPDME of which polarity can be controllable is expected to be used for various cosmetic applications in near future.

• Korean Journal of Medicinal Crop Science
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• v.28 no.4
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• pp.260-275
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• 2020

Background: We investigated the antioxidant, anti-wrinkles, whitening, and moisturizing properties and amounts of phenolic compounds of ethanol extracts from flowers of 10 resource plants from Namwon and Mt. Jiri., Korea. Methods and Results: We measured antioxidant efficacy based on the total polyphenol, and total flavonoid content, and the 2,2-diphenyl-1-picrylhydrazyl (DPPH) assay. We evaluated the inhibitory effect on melanin synthesis and tyrosinase activity for the whitening effect. Furthermore, we analyzed the elastase and matrix metalloproteinase-1 (MMP-1) inhibition activity for anti-wrinkle capacity. To evaluate the moisturizing effect, we examined hyaluronan synthase (HAS) mRNA expression. In addition, the 19 phenolic compounds were detected using high performace liquid chromatography (HPLC). Among the 10 flowers, the antioxidant effect was high in the order of Rosa multiflora, Nelumbo nucifera, and Elsholtzia splendens. Whitening effect was high in the order of N. nucifera, R. multiflora, and Dendranthema zawadskii. As for the anti-wrinkle property, N. nucifera was the most effective followed by R. multiflora. Taraxacum coreanum was the best for moisturizing effect, followed by D. zawadskii, and E. splendens. Seven phenolic compounds were detected in the extracts of the 10 flowers. Conclusions: Overall, the extracts of five flowers extracts showed strong potential as antioxidant, whitening, anti-wrinkle, and moisturizing functional cosmetic agents.

• Korean Journal of Pharmacognosy
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• v.51 no.1
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• pp.49-54
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• 2020

The aim of this study was to investigate the epidermal moisturizing effects of artocarpin on normal human epidermal keratinocytes (NHEKs). To investigate the effects of artocarpin on NHEKs, cell viability and the expression of mRNAs related to skin hydration were measured. In addition, hyaluronic acid (HA)-ELISA assay was performed. Here, the effects of artocarpin on AQP3, HAS2, KRT1, and KRT10 mRNA expression, and on HA production, following UVA treatment were reported. The Quantitative real-time PCR results demonstrate that artocarpin increased AQP3, HAS2, KRT1, and KRT10 mRNA levels. The HA-ELISA assay revealed that artocarpin also increased HA production in NHEKs. Through these experiments, the epidermal moisturizing effects of artocarpin have been elucidated, providing evidence that artocarpin may be a potent cosmetic ingredient in skin anti-aging and moisturizing products. Based on these results, I anticipate that further research on the mechanisms of action of artocarpin may allow the development of not only cosmetics, but also medicines and healthcare foods.

• Korean Journal of Pharmacognosy
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• v.52 no.4
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• pp.228-233
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• 2021

This research was carried out to investigate the moisturizing effects of Agarum cribrosum extract on normal human epidermal keratinocytes (NHEKs). Moisturizing effects of A. cribrosum extract on NHEKs were measured by quantitative realtime RT-PCR to verify the gene expressions related to skin hydration, hyaluronic acid (HA)-ELISA to detect HA production, and cell viability assays. A. cribrosum extract increased the mRNA levels of the AQP3 and HAS2 genes and HA production in NHEKs. On the other hand, A. cribrosum extract decreased the mRNA level of the KRT1 and KRT10 genes known as differentiated keratinocyte marker in NHEKs. This research showed the moisturizing effects of A. cribrosum extract. The results indicate that A. cribrosum extract can be a potent functional ingredient for skin hydration and anti-aging products. Further study is warranted regarding the use of A. cribrosum extract to develop not only cosmetics but also food and medicine.

• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• v.36 no.1
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• pp.41-45
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• 2010

Emulsion body cleansing systems containing high levels of occlusives have recently been developed such as using insoluble crystalline hydroxy waxes, insoluble crystalline surfactant structures, encapsulated particles and smectite clay. In this study, moisturizing effect of various occlusives such as petrolatum and triglycerides was researched in emulsion body cleansing systems. The experiment shows that petrolatum has less moisturizing capacity in emulsion body cleansing systems than triglycerides. In "leave-on" products such as lotion and cream formulations, the moisturizing capacity of petrolatum is more than that of triglycerides, but in "wash-off" emulsion body cleanser of this research, different results appeared. Emulsion body cleansing systems contained high levels of anionic and amphoteric surfactants, therefore petrolatum has more solubility and less deposited amount into the skin during washing process than triglycerides.

• Journal of Marine Bioscience and Biotechnology
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• v.9 no.2
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• pp.58-64
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• 2017

Polysaccharides are useful materials for keep skin moisturizing and skin improvement cosmetic materials. We have isolated polysaccharides form Gracilariopsis sp. The polysaccharide derived from Gracilariopsis sp. have various size of 300kDa, 500kDa and over 1,000kDa. The volunteers applied a cream formula with polysaccharides from Graciariopsis sp. for 4 weeks. We found significant improvement of wrinkles and skin texture. We also found an effect of improving skin elasticity. When the moisture reduction rate of the skin was 2.8% lower than the 5.1% of hyaluronic acid. The polysaccharide extract from Gracilariopsis sp. showed stable pH and viscosity. The polysaccharides derived from Gracilariopsis sp. could be used as a cosmetic material.

• Journal of Pharmaceutical Investigation
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• v.38 no.2
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• pp.87-92
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• 2008

Wood vinegar is well known as a softening agent affecting on the stratum corneum that is easy to penetrate into the skin. In this study, we prepared mixed ursolic acid hydrogel with wood vinegar(1, 2, 5%) as a penetration enhancer. The accumulation of ursolic acid in the skin from hydrogels was evaluated in vitro hairless mouse skin and skin moisturizing effect of them was evaluated using the corneometer and the tewermeter. And the role of stratum corneum as a protective barrier was evaluated as well. The hydrogels were retained about 40% of water retention capacity 2hrs and had better effect on the stripped skin than full-thickness skin. The accumulation of ursolic acid through stripped skin from hydrogels with wood vinegar was not change compared to normal skin, which indicated the action site of wood vinegar and the accumulation site of ursolic acid would be stratum corneum. From these result, we could find wood vinegar seems to be a good enhancer for active materials with anti-wrinkle and anti aging effect such as ursolic acid, and can be a developed topical delivery system maintaining excellent water retention capacity.

• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• v.32 no.2 s.57
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• pp.81-88
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• 2006

Amino acid complex was made with the composition of amino acids quite similar to that of stratum corneum on the skin. In order to evaluate the efficacy of amino acid complex on the skin as an active cosmetic ingredient, we measured cytotoxicity. TIMP-1 expression, moisturizing effect and the amount of horny substance. In cytotoxicity assay, amino acid complex did not show any cytotoxicity. In moisturizing effect test using corneometer, it showed very good moisturizing effect. In TIMP-1 mRNA assay using RT-PCR, moo acid complex showed the increase of TIMP-1 expression, suggesting that amino acid complex have anti-wrinkle effect. Therefore, amino acid complex may be useful as an active ingredient for anti-aging.

• The Korean Journal of Physiology and Pharmacology
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• v.19 no.6
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• pp.543-547
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• 2015

We investigated the combined moisturizing effect of liposomal serine and a cosmeceutical base selected in this study. Serine is a major amino acid consisting of natural moisturizing factors and keratin, and the hydroxyl group of serine can actively interact with water molecules. Therefore, we hypothesized that serine efficiently delivered to the stratum corneum (SC) of the skin would enhance the moisturizing capability of the skin. We prepared four different cosmeceutical bases (hydrogel, oil-in-water (O/W) essence, O/W cream, and water-in-oil (W/O) cream); their moisturizing abilities were then assessed using a $Corneometer^{(R)}$. The hydrogel was selected as the optimum base for skin moisturization based on the area under the moisture content change-time curves (AUMCC) values used as a parameter for the water hold capacity of the skin. Liposomal serine prepared by a reverse-phase evaporation method was then incorporated in the hydrogel. The liposomal serine-incorporated hydrogel (serine level=1%) showed an approximately 1.62~1.77 times greater moisturizing effect on the skin than those of hydrogel, hydrogel with serine (1%), and hydrogel with blank liposome. However, the AUMCC values were not dependent on the level of serine in liposomal serine-loaded hydrogels. Together, the delivery of serine to the SC of the skin is a promising strategy for moisturizing the skin. This study is expected to be an important step in developing highly effective moisturizing cosmeceutical products.

• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• v.42 no.2
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• pp.153-162
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• 2016

In this study, we investigated the moisturizing effects of collagen extract from jellyfish. The mositurizing effects were measured by the caspase 14 expression, filaggrin, hyaluronan synthase-3 (HAS-3), aquaporin-3 (AQP-3) and desmocollin (DSC). As a results, effect of caspase 14 mRNA expression of collagen extract are similar to that of retinoic acid (RA) which is a reference control. And the collagen extract showed inhibitory of filaggrin, HAS-3, AQP-3 and DSC mRNA expression of 211.7%, 139.9%, 212.5% and 116.8% respectively, at the concentration of 2%. Therefore, our study suggested that jellyfish collagen extract has considerable potential as a cosmetics ingredient with moisturizing effect.