• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• v.44 no.1
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• pp.49-57
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• 2018

In this study, we investigated the anti-aging effect of Rosa damascena extract containing low molecular glycoprotein (RELG) converted from the high molecular glycoprotein by bioconversion. Free radical scavenging activities were performed by 2,2-diphenyl-1-picrylhydrazyl (DPPH) assay. Antioxidant activities ($IC_{50}$) of RELG and the positive control ascorbic acid were $22.6{\mu}g/mL$ and $21.1{\mu}g/mL$, respectively. For skin cells, $15{\mu}g/mL$ RELG showed 28% antioxidant activity by inhibiting the production of active oxygen species induced by ultraviolet ray and hydrogen peroxide. $15{\mu}g/mL$ RELG prevented 10% the cell death caused by stress in human hair follicle dermal papilla cells (HDPC) and reduced 90% the production of active oxygen species. In addition, the glycoprotein showed not only anti-wrinkle effect but also moisturizing effect by 48% inhibition of matrix metallo proteinase-1 (MMP-1) production by ultraviolet stress and $10{\mu}g/mL$ RELG enhanced 10% neutral lipid synthesis with 44% aquaporin 3 (AQP3) expression, which is moisture factor. In conclusion, the RELG can be used as an anti-aging cosmetic material.

• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• v.30 no.3 s.47
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• pp.419-426
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• 2004

The nano-ceramide capsulation is a technique that capsulates ceramide III and tocopheryl linoleate at the mono-vesicle to act on the horny layer in skin. In this technique, $0.5{\~}5.0\;wt\%$ of hydrogenated lecithin and $0.01{\~}2.00\;wt\%$ of lysolecithin are used as the membrane-strengthen agents of the mono-vesicle and $5.0{\~}10.0\;wt\%$ of propylene glycol and $5.0{\~}10.0\;wt\%$ of ethyl alcohol are used as solvents. Active ingredients such ceramide III and tocopheryl linoleate are utilized to enhance the moisturizing efficacy and treat atopy skin. These materials do not contain synthetic emulsifiers. The optimal conditions or nano-ceramide capsulation are such that particles pass Microfludizdizer 3 times at 1,000 bar and $60{\~}70^{\circ}C$ and pH of nano capsules is $5.8{\pm}0.5.$ The average size of particles is $63.1{\pm}7.34\;nm$ showing lucid state like water by the laser light scattering. A zeta potential value is $-55.1\pm0.84\;mV.$ Through clinical tests, the moisturizing effect (in-vivo, n=8, p-value<0.05) showed $21.15\%$ of improvement comparison to comparison-samples and $36.31\%$ of improvement compared to the state before treatment. Moreover, the effectiveness of atopy skin showed positive reaction from 10 volunteers.

• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• v.43 no.3
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• pp.223-230
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• 2017

In this study, we evaluated the skin moisturizing effect of Brasenia schreberi (B. schreberi) mucilage polysaccharide on human skin and in vitro and the potent cosmetic ingredient for skin. To protect skin from various environmental stresses and aging, we should increase moisture content of skin and prevent water loss. We have found that polysaccharides extracted from mucilage of B. schreberi improved the roughness of skin with its lubricating behavior. In vitro, the expression of transglutaminase 1 (TGM1) gene, which plays a role in cross-linking the skin barrier, was increased when the keratinocytes were treated with B. schreberi polysaccharides. In addition, the expression of hyaluronan synthase 3 (HAS3) gene, an enzyme that synthesizes water-binding matrix hyaluronic acid, aquaporin 3 (AQP3), which regulates the movement of water and glycerol were also increased. In addition, an experiment to evaluate its potential as a cosmetic ingredient has shown anti-inflammatory and collagen synthesis-promoting effects. As a result, the mucilaginous polysaccharide from natural products which has not existed before, showed moisturizing effect, anti-inflammation and collagen synthesis-promoting effects for skin protection and hydration.

• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• v.36 no.2
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• pp.121-128
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• 2010

We investigated the effects of skin hydration and composition analysis of proteoglycan (chia seed polymer) produced from chia (Salvia hispanica) seed. The result showed that proteoglycan of chia seeds is composed of galactose (46.8 %), glucuronic acid (27.1 %), rhamnose (8.7 %), xylose (7.6 %), glucose (4.9 %), fructose (2.3 %), mannose (1.8 %), arabinose (0.9 %) and the amount of proteins contained is 31.3 mg/g with the constituent amino acid compositions (mg/g) of Asp (1.9), Glu (3.6), Ser (0.9), Gly (3.6), Thr (0.8), Arg (1.0), Ala (2.0), Tyr (0.4), Cys (4.8), Val (1.1), Phe (0.5), Ile (0.6), Leu (0.9). The molecular weight of the proteoglycan measured by GPC (Gel Permeation Chromatography) is the range of 100,000~250,000 Da and the average molecular weight is 170,000 Da. The moisturizing effects and trans-epidermal water loss (TEWL) of chia seed polymer in cosmetic products (O/W emulsion) were studied in vivo. Chia seed polymer showed good skin hydration effects when compared with sodium hyaluronate which is a common moisturizer. Taken all together, chia seed polymer should be a very useful cosmetic ingredient as a moisturizer and a protecting agent from various skin irritations.

• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• v.39 no.1
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• pp.65-73
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• 2013

Lip make-up products can be easily taken into body with food. For this reason, those products are requires to meet lots of qualifications compared with other cosmetic products. In addition, concerns about safety on synthesized tar pigments is constantly issued. Thus, demand of natural pigments is gradually increased and many kinds of natural pigments have been developed. However, there are some problems when natural pigments are applied to cometic products instead of synthetic ones. There is a reason that most of natural pigments consist of hydrophilic materials of sort of anthocyanin, but the existing lip make-up products is anhydrous oil dispersion type without water consisting oil and wax. Therefore, when watersoluble natural pigments are applied to anhydrous lip make-up products, color expression is lower and phase separation occurs due to the instability of the product. In addition, natural pigments have disadvantages that they can easily change by pH, heat and sunlight. There are troubles of stability because it is not easy to adjust for these factors in case of anhydrous forms. Aim of study is to develop lip make-up products which have not only safe to human but being high in expression of color by using natural pigments and securing stability of colorant as natural pigments are offered to polyol in oil emulsion. Then, lip make-up products which have heavy moisture while having not dryness that is created when the moisture evaporates are developed.

• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• v.31 no.1 s.49
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• pp.35-41
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• 2005

We investigated the effects of skin hydration and anti-irritation of exopolysaceharide (GF-glucan) produced from submerged culture of Grifola frondosa. The moisturizing effects and trans-epidermal water loss (TEWL) of GF-glucan in cosmetic products (O/W emulsion) were clinically studied. GF-glucan showed good skin hydration effects when compared with sodium hyaluronate which is a commonly using moisturizer. The skin protective effects of GF-glucan against sodium lauryl sulfate (SLS) were also found. Twice a day application of the CF-glucan to skin reduced local inflammation remarkably. Irritant reactions were assessed by various aspects of skin function, erythema (skin color reflectance), hydration (electrical capacitance) and TEWL. In the human skin test, 5-day treatment of the GF-glucan was found to reduce SLS-induced skin erythema and Improve bier regeneration. Taken all together, GF-glucan should be a very useful cosmetic ingredient, as a moisturizer, and a protecting agent for various skin irritations.

• Journal of the Korean Applied Science and Technology
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• v.38 no.4
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• pp.915-921
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• 2021

In this study, we designed pantothenic acid (PA) loaded solid lipid nanoparticles (SLNs) for enhanced skin penetration of PA that is used for moisturizing agent in cosmetics with hydrophilic property. SLNs were prepared using various lipids and surfactants. PA loaded SLNs were fabricated using double emulsion method. The fabricated PA loaded SLNs assessed particle size, polydispersity index, zeta potential, loading capacity. Skin penetration study was conducted using artificial skin tissue originated from human epidermis as one of the reconstructed human epidermis models. The mean particle size and zeta potential of SLNs ranged from 192.15 nm to 369.87 nm and -21.39 mV to -40.55 mV, respectively. The loading efficiency and loading amount of PA loaded SLNs were ranged from 44.36% to 57.16% and 12.60% to 16.36%, respectively. The results of penetration demonstrated that all SLNs improved PA skin penetration. In addition, the amount of PA from SLNs were approximately 3.8 - 8.8 times higher than that from PA solution. Therefore, the fabricated SLNs demonstrated the enhancment of skin penetration of PA. Particularly, the SLN, which used glyceryl behenate and Span 60, showed optimal skin penetration of PA.

• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• v.49 no.2
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• pp.97-106
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• 2023

In this study, we would like to study the stabilization of the high content of ceramide formulation by containing cyclodextrin. Ceramide, which constitutes the intercellular lipid, a human skin barrier, is a very important ingredient in moisturizing maintenance by protecting moisture in the skin and strengthening the skin barrier. However, since ceramide is poorly soluble, even if it is included in the cosmetic formulation, it has a problem that it is slowly gelled or crystallized and deposited over time, making it difficult to containing a high amount of ceramide. Cyclodextrin is a cyclic oligosaccharide connected with glucose molecules and has a cylindrical structure with hydrophilic outer surface and hydrophobic inner surface, which is known to improve the physicochemical properties of drugs such as improving solubility and absorption of poorly soluble drugs. We demonstrated the stability of the formulation containing high amount of ceramide by measuring hardness and observing emulsion drops with polarized microscope. This study also demonstrated that the high-content ceramide formulation containing cyclodextrin has the effect of preventing gelation or crystallization of ceramide, thus having excellent environmental conditions stability and skin moisturization.

• The Journal of Korean Medicine Ophthalmology and Otolaryngology and Dermatology
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• v.21 no.3
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• pp.124-131
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• 2008

Objectives : The aim of this study was conducted to test dry infant skin by external application with herbs in cosmetics. Methods : A total of 25 infants who visited Daegu Hanny Oriental Medical Center from March 5th, 2008 to May 18th, 2008 were included in this study. In this study, they were treated with the cosmetic products(body wash, rotion, cream) containing herbs. For 4 weaks skin moisture content was measured by corneometer ClVI825. And satisfaction after using body wash, rotion, cream was checked. Results : There were no significant differences on sex and age. Change of skin moisture content between before treatment and after treatment (2, 4 weeks) showed significant changes(p<0.05). Satisfaction after using body wash, rotion, cream was near good. Conclusions : Considering the above results, we have concluded that cosmetics containing herbs have the remarkable effect on infant skin mosturizing.

• Journal of the Korea Academia-Industrial cooperation Society
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• v.13 no.11
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• pp.5623-5627
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• 2012

Codonopsis lanceolata belongs to the Campanulaceae family, which is a perennial herb. It is widely used as an antitussive agent and an expectorant in oriental medicine. Codonopsis lanceolata contains large amounts of polysaccharide and phenolic compounds and is known to have anti-oxidative effect and improve immunity. We evaluated the efficacy and the skin safety and stability of cosmetic that is applied Codonopsis lanceolata extract fermented by lactic acid bacteria. As result, formulation of Codonopsis lanceolata extract improved the human skin moisturizing effect, increased TEWL 196%, skin hydration 15%, and the sebum rate 131%.