• 복식
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• 제63권8호
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• pp.1-13
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• 2013

This study examines the processes and characteristics of modern Korean embroidery art from the beginning of Korean modern times to 1945 which was the year of independence from Japan. An objective basis is presented by the analysis of articles and illustrations from the press and publications of the corresponding times. The significance of this study is to research the modern Korean embroidery art, which connected traditional times with modern Korean culture in order to investigate its identity. Due to Korea's modern embroidery art being started in the Japanese colonial times, there are some limits in it because of it being influenced by Western modern embroidery art and Japanese embroidery design. However, modern Korean embroidery art expanded from the private space to public space such as schools, open lectures and exhibitions. It has also accepted diverse foreign embroidery forms, which have been commercialized and accepted as art. The embroidery craft as commerce and art has given women the chance to achieve economic independence and to improve their social status. Modern Korean embroidery was art for the modern woman who had been educated in academic art, as well as a liberal art for wealthy housewives. It was the foundation of economic independence for poor rural women. It can be concluded that Modern Korean embroidery art has been accepted and developed by women in modern times.

• 대한간호학회지
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• 제29권1호
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• pp.139-149
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• 1999

It is very important to establish precisely the historical phases of nursing. We nurses should try to acquire the central social position in the health management system in the near the future, the 21st Century. Therefore my treatise aims to orient the desirable phases of the history of nursing through the feministic survey of the history of nursing from the post medieval epoche to the modern epoche. During the time of the renaissance which gave morning light to the modern epoche, the antique Athenian thinking of sex was again revived. Athenian excluded the women from the public and autonomous regions. All the medical activity, once dominated by the women, was misfortunately regarded as superstition acted by witches. Accordingly, the nursing women were to hunted as witches. In short, in the early modern epoche, women began to be excluded from the history of medical activities. In the middle modern epoche characterized by the enlightenment movement and early capital economic system, capitalistic patriarchal system began to be formed by change in the economic system. The status of women began to be greatly dropped below by the social distinction of the private dimension of home and the Public dimension of job. The woman was deprived of even the occasion to get the official license of medicine and medical institutions were handed to the state or the powerful and rich merchants. Accordingly, nursing acted mainly in the nunnery as the total approach to the patients was destructed wholly and transformed into the means of earning the money. Therefore unprepared low class -women began to engage in nursing only for the money. From then on, nursing activity was tunneled through the dark age for 200 years. In the late modern epoche characterized by the contrast of the accumulated vast capital by industrialization and vast poverty of the peoples, feminism began to float over the surface for the acquisition of equality of men and women from England. A feminist, Nightingale insisted that the women as nurses should be responsible for the healthy life of man. She tried the professional nursing education for women. Accordingly she not only contributed to the intellectual progress of women but also inspired in women the consciousness of the professional job. She tried to realize the ideal of at-that-time-feminists by engaging in nursing all through life. She really paved the road to contemporary nursing. In the near the future, I will write to describe how the late modern epoche nursing has fallen into the dilemma through the 1st and 2nd world wars and matured capitalism and to consider contemporary nursing with the status of women. All these papers aim to give proper recognition of nursing and right orientation of the future 21st Century nursing.

• 복식
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• 제52권5호
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• pp.61-77
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• 2002

The purpose of this study is to investigate difference and likeness on the form in women's Hanbok between the later Chosun Dynasty and modern times based on Belong's observing system for 'Apparel-Body Construct'. Belong's framework is composed 5 pairs of contrast word -'Closed or Open', 'Whole or Par', 'Planar Separation or Planar integration'. 'Flat or Rounded', and 'Determinate or Indeterminate'. Major findings of this study are as follows. First, the form of women's Hanbok in later Chosun Dynasty is 'Variably Closed', 'Part' and 'Rounded', whereas that in modern is 'Open', 'Whole' and 'Flat' Women's Hanbok of modern is lesser convex, and more open than that of later Chosun Dynasty according to increasing use of transparent textiles. Moreover, in comparison with old style, that of modern has the tendency of perceiving primarily whole feature by organic linkage of parts. Because of loose fit of Jeogori and rigid DongJong etc, characteristic of 'Plat' strengthened in modern Hanbok. Secondly, women's Hanbok in the later Chosun Dynasty and modern has common properties of 'Planar Seperation' and 'Determinate'. Women's Hanbok belongs to 'Planar Seperation', because the effect cognized to figure and ground. can be found between small parts and whole of Jegori, or can be found between the head and face. Jeuori and waist band, and Chima and under ware. Further more. it can be classified into 'Determinate'. because it use textiles which have no pattern un it or which show a subtle surface effect by texture changing.

• 가정과삶의질연구
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• 제19권2호
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• pp.47-66
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• 2001

Today in modern Korea, the preferred modern social role for many modern women is that of modern housewife. This move to the role of housewife is a change in more than just a role; it also reflects a deep and fundamental change that has taken place in the social and economic roles of married women. This shift in economic activities and the gender roles they help produce speaks of a deep and profound process of transformation for all of Korea. Traditionally, a woman was a member of a family premised upon group production as well as group consumption. The role of jubu is derived almost exclusively from market forces and bases her identity and actions upon those forces. This distinction is crucial because it means Korean women are finding that they are no longer as central to the existence of the family. Modern life situations have altered a womans role by making consumption, not production by the woman herself, the keystone of modern families.

• 패션비즈니스
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• 제24권6호
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• pp.18-45
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• 2020

Feminist artists are special in Chinese modern art. Sticking to their own artistic ideas, they constantly emphasize women's psychological characteristics and aesthetic values in their works under the background of modern society. Since feminism was introduced into China from western arts in the 1970s, it has greatly inspired Chinese female artists. This study used comparative analysis and correlation analysis to establish the connection between the works of local Chinese female artists and modern women's wear design, this connection is the common language form of Chinese female artists and modern fashion designers when expressing female psychology and aesthetics. This is a way for Chinese female artists to seek dialogue with Western and global female art, and the development characteristics of the localization of feminism in Chinese art and design. The significance of the research is to improve the international artistic atmosphere of Chinese feminist art and instill a new understanding of Chinese feminist art in the world.

• 동양고전연구
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• 제56호
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• pp.267-295
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• 2014

본 논문은 1920~30년대 근대 척독집에 실려 있는 여성 서간문의 자료 상황을 정리하여 제시하고, 척독집 소재 여성 서간문에 나타난 젠더의식의 특징적 양상을 분석하였다. 이를 위해 20~30년대 대표적인 척독집 다섯 종에 실려 있는 여성 서간 55편의 자료 상황을 정리하여, 서간의 대상이 주로 가문의 '남성'이고 '답서'의 형태라는 점을 지적하였다. 이는 척독집 저자들이 여성의 한문 서간을 주도적인 의사소통의 매체로써보다는 남성과의 피할 수 없는 소통의 필요 상황에 대응하게 하기 위한 수단으로 인식하고 있다고 보았다. 척독집 내 여성 서간에 나타난 젠더 의식의 양상은 첫째, 여성들을 가족 내적 위치와 역할로 호명하고 재설정함으로써 전통적인 성별 질서를 재확인하고 있다는 것이다. 두 번째 젠더 의식의 양상은 근대적 젠더 질서를 반영한 듯한 여성 학업 소재가 실상 매우 제한적이고 회의적인 시선 하에서 언급되고 있다는 것이다. 세 번째 젠더 의식의 특징적 양상은 척독 소재 여성 서간에서 유독 '경제 활동에 대한 훈계'라는 모티프가 두드러진다는 점이며, 이러한 설정은 척독집 저자들이 생계 유지와 가계 관리의 책무를 여성에게 전가하는 한 방편이라고 보았다. 척독집의 여성 서간은 근대 여성 한문 글쓰기의 가능성을 보여준다는 점에서 주목되는 자료이지만, 본고의 분석에 따르면 철저히 남성중심적 상상력 안에서 재단된 여성 형상과 여성 글쓰기를 보여주는 텍스트이다. 즉 여성 서간 텍스트는 척독집 자료군의 보수적 회귀성을 더 선명하게 읽어볼 수 있게 하는 의의를 가진다.

• 복식
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• 제32권
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• pp.149-162
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• 1997

In this paper it was observed that the influences of social environment that had been saturated by the modern awareness and west-ern culture effected largely on clothing. Also it was studied how and by what en-vironmental factors the costume during the enlightening period was accepted and devel-oped in Korea relative to social cultural en-vironment. In this research the emphasis was placed on the process of changing to western clothing especially the influence of Group Clothing on the general women's clothing. Therefore the types of group clothing and its influences were studied. in this study the types of group clothing recalled were modern women's clothing mission-ary women's clothing professional women's such as nurse uniforms school girls' uniforms and the invention of women's sports wear. And lastly it was searched for the direction of developent in apparels. From the above mentioned we can conclude that the clothing is inseparable from social and cultural Invironments and foreign affairs of politics at the time. Also it is considered that the types of group styles were the necessary happenings in the early stage of modern so-ciety. Because of historical situation in Korea the western clothing style had taken place in a short period of time. however Korean women's clothing which had been centerred around group clothing was considered to have changed from Korean traditional costume to western clothing by rational decisions of modern awareness in-stead of sudden change from traditional clothing to western clothing by indiscrete acceptance of western culture.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제17권5호
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• pp.886-896
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• 2009

Acjurumpo is one of the most representatives daily outfit of Joseon Dynasty is a clothes which has a characteristic of having creases under the armhole and it has a lot of chance to use on modern clothes design. This study wants to provide a information on traditional clothes to the public and modernize traditional clothes by designing modern women clothes by adapting Acjurumpo, one of Joseon Dynasty's men' daily outfit which is not very well-known to publics as a link of traditional clothes modernization. Acjurumpo's characteristic is usually having a knife-shape collar and having two sup and one sup, but outside sup of having two sup was more common. There were tongsu, duri, as a example of shape of sleeve. For Mu the combinations were different from Acjurum starting with a shape of trapezoid, triangle to big Mu on a body of side line. For Gorum there were two pairs of long and short Gorum, two pairs of short Gorum or one pair of short or long Gorum. Slit of po was on both side or back. Acjurumpo which was adapted on modern clothes, it was usually used on Hanbok companies that used traditional shape or similar shape to design children' clothes. This study designed three summer one-piece and two winter jacket for women clothes adapting Acjurumpo. And it was designed by using modern material adapting Acjurumpo's characteristics, changing knife-shape collar, Acjurum, mu and Gorum. This study expects for popularization of many traditional clothes developed by modern design in future.

• 복식
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• 제53권1호
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• pp.49-66
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• 2003

In the relationship between post-modern feminism and the body. the body of women, which has been taken as 'other' by dominant arguments, has escaped from the fixed idea at post-modern times and the post-modern feminists tried to escape from the taste of the times about body image that was prevalent in the former times.'The taste of the times' here means the fixed physical form of ideal women's body by the educational custom, and it includes the educational prescription which establishes the docile body of women. This kind of educational custom aims at the perfect and permanent restriction on size, shape, desire, attitude and movement as well as on the overall demeanor and each part of the body. And the custom produces 'dependent and trained'. that is, inferiorized women's body. Hence, this paper points out that the feminity as a fixed Physical form should be overcome in order to move forward, and as one part of the effort, it attempts to analyze the designs which deformed and distorted women's body in 1990s. This research indicates that the work, which tries to deviate the fantasized and casted women's mystery, has been closely connected with the expression of 'non-separate bodies' and 'irregular body shapes' in 1990s, which aims at escaping from the fixation of women's body Image. Therefore, it is concluded that the target design trend of this research, which expressed the deformation and perversion of the body, provides the anti-these against the ideal body image of women and the these of feminity. which have been reproduced in various methods and patterns throughout the public and the culture on the whole by expressing the refusal and deviation of the existing women's body image through the post-fixation of the body pattern.

• 한국의상디자인학회지
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• 제18권1호
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• pp.183-190
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• 2016

A mourning dress is the formal costume that the mourners wear to show civility during the mourning. Traditional funeral rites are the Confucianism's funeral proceeding where the mourners wear according to the National Mourning Dresses System. However, nowadays, the funeral proceedings and mourning dresses are simplified. In result of current design analysis of the mourning dresses for women, the types of the mourning dresses for women are classified by traditional styles and modern styles. Traditional styles include skits and Jeogori make of hemp fabrics, and modern styles include skits and Joegori style, modernized Hanbok style, and Western style, which consist of cardigan, waist skits, jackets, and pants. The modern styles mostly use polyester and the color consists mainly of black and white. The followings propose new designs of mourning dress for women that reflect practicality, flexibility, and diversity. First, transmit the meaning that traditional mourning dress entails Second, change the length and the width of Jeogori and skirt by reflecting the trend of the time and change the designs of the mourning dresses by using the details of the modern styles so that they are equipped with practicality, flexibility, and affordability. Third, pursue diversity by changing the uniformed fabrics and colors used on the existing mourning dresses. This study addresses the drawbacks and the points that need be improved to suggest the designs of the modern mourning dress for women, which reflect the characteristics of Hanbok and cultural traits.