• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.63 no.8
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• pp.1-13
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• 2013

This study examines the processes and characteristics of modern Korean embroidery art from the beginning of Korean modern times to 1945 which was the year of independence from Japan. An objective basis is presented by the analysis of articles and illustrations from the press and publications of the corresponding times. The significance of this study is to research the modern Korean embroidery art, which connected traditional times with modern Korean culture in order to investigate its identity. Due to Korea's modern embroidery art being started in the Japanese colonial times, there are some limits in it because of it being influenced by Western modern embroidery art and Japanese embroidery design. However, modern Korean embroidery art expanded from the private space to public space such as schools, open lectures and exhibitions. It has also accepted diverse foreign embroidery forms, which have been commercialized and accepted as art. The embroidery craft as commerce and art has given women the chance to achieve economic independence and to improve their social status. Modern Korean embroidery was art for the modern woman who had been educated in academic art, as well as a liberal art for wealthy housewives. It was the foundation of economic independence for poor rural women. It can be concluded that Modern Korean embroidery art has been accepted and developed by women in modern times.

• Journal of Korean Academy of Nursing
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• v.29 no.1
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• pp.139-149
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• 1999

It is very important to establish precisely the historical phases of nursing. We nurses should try to acquire the central social position in the health management system in the near the future, the 21st Century. Therefore my treatise aims to orient the desirable phases of the history of nursing through the feministic survey of the history of nursing from the post medieval epoche to the modern epoche. During the time of the renaissance which gave morning light to the modern epoche, the antique Athenian thinking of sex was again revived. Athenian excluded the women from the public and autonomous regions. All the medical activity, once dominated by the women, was misfortunately regarded as superstition acted by witches. Accordingly, the nursing women were to hunted as witches. In short, in the early modern epoche, women began to be excluded from the history of medical activities. In the middle modern epoche characterized by the enlightenment movement and early capital economic system, capitalistic patriarchal system began to be formed by change in the economic system. The status of women began to be greatly dropped below by the social distinction of the private dimension of home and the Public dimension of job. The woman was deprived of even the occasion to get the official license of medicine and medical institutions were handed to the state or the powerful and rich merchants. Accordingly, nursing acted mainly in the nunnery as the total approach to the patients was destructed wholly and transformed into the means of earning the money. Therefore unprepared low class -women began to engage in nursing only for the money. From then on, nursing activity was tunneled through the dark age for 200 years. In the late modern epoche characterized by the contrast of the accumulated vast capital by industrialization and vast poverty of the peoples, feminism began to float over the surface for the acquisition of equality of men and women from England. A feminist, Nightingale insisted that the women as nurses should be responsible for the healthy life of man. She tried the professional nursing education for women. Accordingly she not only contributed to the intellectual progress of women but also inspired in women the consciousness of the professional job. She tried to realize the ideal of at-that-time-feminists by engaging in nursing all through life. She really paved the road to contemporary nursing. In the near the future, I will write to describe how the late modern epoche nursing has fallen into the dilemma through the 1st and 2nd world wars and matured capitalism and to consider contemporary nursing with the status of women. All these papers aim to give proper recognition of nursing and right orientation of the future 21st Century nursing.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.52 no.5
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• pp.61-77
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• 2002

The purpose of this study is to investigate difference and likeness on the form in women's Hanbok between the later Chosun Dynasty and modern times based on Belong's observing system for 'Apparel-Body Construct'. Belong's framework is composed 5 pairs of contrast word -'Closed or Open', 'Whole or Par', 'Planar Separation or Planar integration'. 'Flat or Rounded', and 'Determinate or Indeterminate'. Major findings of this study are as follows. First, the form of women's Hanbok in later Chosun Dynasty is 'Variably Closed', 'Part' and 'Rounded', whereas that in modern is 'Open', 'Whole' and 'Flat' Women's Hanbok of modern is lesser convex, and more open than that of later Chosun Dynasty according to increasing use of transparent textiles. Moreover, in comparison with old style, that of modern has the tendency of perceiving primarily whole feature by organic linkage of parts. Because of loose fit of Jeogori and rigid DongJong etc, characteristic of 'Plat' strengthened in modern Hanbok. Secondly, women's Hanbok in the later Chosun Dynasty and modern has common properties of 'Planar Seperation' and 'Determinate'. Women's Hanbok belongs to 'Planar Seperation', because the effect cognized to figure and ground. can be found between small parts and whole of Jegori, or can be found between the head and face. Jeuori and waist band, and Chima and under ware. Further more. it can be classified into 'Determinate'. because it use textiles which have no pattern un it or which show a subtle surface effect by texture changing.

• Journal of Families and Better Life
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• v.19 no.2
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• pp.47-66
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• 2001

Today in modern Korea, the preferred modern social role for many modern women is that of modern housewife. This move to the role of housewife is a change in more than just a role; it also reflects a deep and fundamental change that has taken place in the social and economic roles of married women. This shift in economic activities and the gender roles they help produce speaks of a deep and profound process of transformation for all of Korea. Traditionally, a woman was a member of a family premised upon group production as well as group consumption. The role of jubu is derived almost exclusively from market forces and bases her identity and actions upon those forces. This distinction is crucial because it means Korean women are finding that they are no longer as central to the existence of the family. Modern life situations have altered a womans role by making consumption, not production by the woman herself, the keystone of modern families.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.24 no.6
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• pp.18-45
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• 2020

Feminist artists are special in Chinese modern art. Sticking to their own artistic ideas, they constantly emphasize women's psychological characteristics and aesthetic values in their works under the background of modern society. Since feminism was introduced into China from western arts in the 1970s, it has greatly inspired Chinese female artists. This study used comparative analysis and correlation analysis to establish the connection between the works of local Chinese female artists and modern women's wear design, this connection is the common language form of Chinese female artists and modern fashion designers when expressing female psychology and aesthetics. This is a way for Chinese female artists to seek dialogue with Western and global female art, and the development characteristics of the localization of feminism in Chinese art and design. The significance of the research is to improve the international artistic atmosphere of Chinese feminist art and instill a new understanding of Chinese feminist art in the world.

• (The)Study of the Eastern Classic
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• no.56
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• pp.267-295
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• 2014

The purpose of this paper was to introduce the material status of women's epistolary literature published in modern study materials for writing letters in Chinese in 1920~30s and analyze gender consciousness shown in them. To this end, five kinds of representative modern study materials for writing letters in Chinese in 1920~30s were selected and 55 women's letters published in them were summarized. Through this, it was pointed out that the subjects of women's epistolary literature are mainly 'males' of families and the form of 'reply.' This implies that the authors of modern study materials for writing letters in Chinese recognized women's Chinese letters as a secondary means to prepare for inevitable communication with men rather than the leading medium of communication. The first aspect of gender consciousness shown in women's epistolary in modern study materials for writing letters in Chinese is to reaffirm the traditional gender order by calling and resetting women as the position and role in the family. The second aspect of gender consciousness is that female education materials which seemed to reflect the modern gender order are actually mentioned under the very skeptical view. The third characteristic aspect of gender consciousness is that the motif of 'discipline about economic activity' is only noticeable in women's epistolary published in modern study materials for writing letters. This setting was regarded as a means that the authors of modern study materials for writing letters in Chinese transferred the responsibilities of maintaining livelihood and managing household to women. Women's epistolary in modern study materials for writing letters in Chinese is the material which is noticeable in terms of showing the possibility of female Chinese Writing in modern times but according to the analysis of this paper, it is the text showing female form and women's writing judged within thoroughly male-centered imagination. That is, women's epistle text has a significance that allows us to read conservative reentry of modern study materials for writing letters in Chinese more clearly.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.32
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• pp.149-162
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• 1997

In this paper it was observed that the influences of social environment that had been saturated by the modern awareness and west-ern culture effected largely on clothing. Also it was studied how and by what en-vironmental factors the costume during the enlightening period was accepted and devel-oped in Korea relative to social cultural en-vironment. In this research the emphasis was placed on the process of changing to western clothing especially the influence of Group Clothing on the general women's clothing. Therefore the types of group clothing and its influences were studied. in this study the types of group clothing recalled were modern women's clothing mission-ary women's clothing professional women's such as nurse uniforms school girls' uniforms and the invention of women's sports wear. And lastly it was searched for the direction of developent in apparels. From the above mentioned we can conclude that the clothing is inseparable from social and cultural Invironments and foreign affairs of politics at the time. Also it is considered that the types of group styles were the necessary happenings in the early stage of modern so-ciety. Because of historical situation in Korea the western clothing style had taken place in a short period of time. however Korean women's clothing which had been centerred around group clothing was considered to have changed from Korean traditional costume to western clothing by rational decisions of modern awareness in-stead of sudden change from traditional clothing to western clothing by indiscrete acceptance of western culture.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.17 no.5
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• pp.886-896
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• 2009

Acjurumpo is one of the most representatives daily outfit of Joseon Dynasty is a clothes which has a characteristic of having creases under the armhole and it has a lot of chance to use on modern clothes design. This study wants to provide a information on traditional clothes to the public and modernize traditional clothes by designing modern women clothes by adapting Acjurumpo, one of Joseon Dynasty's men' daily outfit which is not very well-known to publics as a link of traditional clothes modernization. Acjurumpo's characteristic is usually having a knife-shape collar and having two sup and one sup, but outside sup of having two sup was more common. There were tongsu, duri, as a example of shape of sleeve. For Mu the combinations were different from Acjurum starting with a shape of trapezoid, triangle to big Mu on a body of side line. For Gorum there were two pairs of long and short Gorum, two pairs of short Gorum or one pair of short or long Gorum. Slit of po was on both side or back. Acjurumpo which was adapted on modern clothes, it was usually used on Hanbok companies that used traditional shape or similar shape to design children' clothes. This study designed three summer one-piece and two winter jacket for women clothes adapting Acjurumpo. And it was designed by using modern material adapting Acjurumpo's characteristics, changing knife-shape collar, Acjurum, mu and Gorum. This study expects for popularization of many traditional clothes developed by modern design in future.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.53 no.1
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• pp.49-66
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• 2003

In the relationship between post-modern feminism and the body. the body of women, which has been taken as 'other' by dominant arguments, has escaped from the fixed idea at post-modern times and the post-modern feminists tried to escape from the taste of the times about body image that was prevalent in the former times.'The taste of the times' here means the fixed physical form of ideal women's body by the educational custom, and it includes the educational prescription which establishes the docile body of women. This kind of educational custom aims at the perfect and permanent restriction on size, shape, desire, attitude and movement as well as on the overall demeanor and each part of the body. And the custom produces 'dependent and trained'. that is, inferiorized women's body. Hence, this paper points out that the feminity as a fixed Physical form should be overcome in order to move forward, and as one part of the effort, it attempts to analyze the designs which deformed and distorted women's body in 1990s. This research indicates that the work, which tries to deviate the fantasized and casted women's mystery, has been closely connected with the expression of 'non-separate bodies' and 'irregular body shapes' in 1990s, which aims at escaping from the fixation of women's body Image. Therefore, it is concluded that the target design trend of this research, which expressed the deformation and perversion of the body, provides the anti-these against the ideal body image of women and the these of feminity. which have been reproduced in various methods and patterns throughout the public and the culture on the whole by expressing the refusal and deviation of the existing women's body image through the post-fixation of the body pattern.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.18 no.1
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• pp.183-190
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• 2016

A mourning dress is the formal costume that the mourners wear to show civility during the mourning. Traditional funeral rites are the Confucianism's funeral proceeding where the mourners wear according to the National Mourning Dresses System. However, nowadays, the funeral proceedings and mourning dresses are simplified. In result of current design analysis of the mourning dresses for women, the types of the mourning dresses for women are classified by traditional styles and modern styles. Traditional styles include skits and Jeogori make of hemp fabrics, and modern styles include skits and Joegori style, modernized Hanbok style, and Western style, which consist of cardigan, waist skits, jackets, and pants. The modern styles mostly use polyester and the color consists mainly of black and white. The followings propose new designs of mourning dress for women that reflect practicality, flexibility, and diversity. First, transmit the meaning that traditional mourning dress entails Second, change the length and the width of Jeogori and skirt by reflecting the trend of the time and change the designs of the mourning dresses by using the details of the modern styles so that they are equipped with practicality, flexibility, and affordability. Third, pursue diversity by changing the uniformed fabrics and colors used on the existing mourning dresses. This study addresses the drawbacks and the points that need be improved to suggest the designs of the modern mourning dress for women, which reflect the characteristics of Hanbok and cultural traits.