• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.18 no.4
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• pp.117-124
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• 2016

This study considered about freaky design of men's wear in Edo period, and also compared and analyzed it to modern men's wear. The purpose for this study is to contribute to the development of modern men's wear by this analysis. Edo period was a male dominated period, so culture of showing off their powers appeared in their fashion as symbols of skulls, monsters or tattoos. Kabuki culture used this kind of social background and it incited the actors roles and clothes to become more famous. 2016-17 F/W, 2017 S/S modern men's wear expressed more various freaky design, so it was able to be classed as shapes, pattern, materials and total coordination. Edo period just expressed freaky design by symbols however, freaky design in modern men's wear is showing more various expressions. This study can conclude that freaky design usually shows weird, peculiar, scary and dampish images. Also freaky design showed in the persuit of various choices including parade of power in modern men's wear.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.12 no.6
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• pp.821-829
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• 2010

The men's costume of eighteenth century showed feminine image of elegant decoration through the influence of social feminine atmosphere. As years go, heading towards the end of the eighteenth century, most of men's wear were simplified except vest, which had gorgeous decorations showing feminity. Therefore, men's vest of eighteenth was regarded as good item to apply to modern women's wear. The men's vest design of eighteenth century were divided into three types due to the passage of time, they showed the difference in the length, detail and trimming. Cutting lines in the modern fashion are used to give comfort and show the three-dimensional body silhouette. Also, cutting lines, as a decoration element, can define the costume's image and characteristics. Therefore, by using cutting lines, we can represent historical costume as modern costume and men's wear as women's wear. I made five women's costumes applying design characteristics of the men's vest of the eighteenth century. These five women's costumes have decorative aspect of men's vest of eighteenth century and simple aspect of men's costume. I applied dart manipulation in several different ways to make various cutting lines for women's costume. These cutting lines were emphasized by matching various colors and patterns of fabrics. I made small buttons and cords of these various fabrics. I sewed fabric buttons on five costumes for the purpose of function and decoration like buttons of the men's vest of eighteenth century. I applied fabric cords to decorate five costumes in various way. We should further study how to express important characteristics of historical costumes as modern costume in many ways.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.64 no.5
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• pp.18-29
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• 2014

Modern male has displayed an increased desire to express their social influence and image, and the male fashion market has had to provide various styles and images to fill these needs. The current domestic menswear market, however, is unable to satisfy the needs of male consumers who have a need for diversity in a rapidly changing society; more segmented fashion images and styles are needed. The purposes of this study are to classify fashion images and to establish character of the types. This study was done by performing a literature review and a survey. This study proposed 10 categories of fashion style images. Men's fashion style is classified into the classic image, sophisticated image, urban casual image, chic modern image, mods modern image, basic casual image, ethnic image, avant-garde image, active & outdoor image, and street-kitsch image. In the case of the classic images, common in formal setting, men's formal wear is the main focus with the classic suit. The sophisticated image is that of a colorful formal wear seasoned with elegance. Urban casual image is contemporary image, and therefore is meant for city life wear. Chic and modern image conveys an urban image by seeking a simple and chic feel. Mods modern image is retro yet dandy, giving off a sense of youthfulness compared to the other classic images. Ethnic image expresses the exotic quality of folklore as the main representatives of the character casual wear. Avant garde image portrays strong character casual wear with oversized silhouettes or exaggerated details. Active & Outdoor image is leisure life wear conveying active, functional images. Street Kitsch image is men's street casual wear with graphic patterns such as pop art and graffiti. This study's significance lies in its presentation of fashion style data, which can be utilized in the design and marketing of fashion targeted to males.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.60 no.10
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• pp.16-27
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• 2010

Business Casual has been launched because of 'Friday Wear' in the 1990s and in Korea, the business casual has been settled under the influence of the five-day work week. The idea of business casual is that 'Business' and 'Casual wear' are combined. It is the attire that people should wear the jacket for formality and people can wear both on or off duty. As a result of the analysis, based on this, of the characteristics of men's business casual appeared in Seoul collections from 2009 till now, they can be classified in 'Classic & Traditional business casual', 'Modern business casual', 'Natural business casual', 'Feminine business casual' and 'Sporty business casual'. As a result of the analysis of the design characteristics of the Korean men's business casual and the trend, based on the content of the analysis of Seoul Collection, 'Classical Classic & the Traditional', 'Modern of the Contemporary design', 'Natural of the Natural design' and 'the Sporty business casual of the Separate Coordination' including jeans, have presented themselves. Also, as a result of the analysis of Korean business men's business casual according to the classification of the design characteristics in Chapter III, 'Classic & Traditional business casual' account for the majority and then 'Sporty', 'Modern' and 'Natural business casual' account for the rest in order. 'Feminine business casual' hasn't presented itself. As a result of the comparative analysis of the design characteristics in Chapter III & IV, Korean business men's business casual has been concentrated on 'Classical & Traditional' and the design characteristics have not appeared in variety. There has been no such audacious attempt, and items, the characteristics of coordination, colors and materials are not in variety compared to the collection. Meanwhile, as a result of the subsistent characteristics of Koran business men's business casual, the characteristics of business men's business casual can be said to represent themselves in "Separate Coordination with the previous items of formal suits".

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.60 no.8
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• pp.51-66
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• 2010

This study aimed to analyze the changing characteristics between Men's Gender Role and Men's wear Design in 20th century. To analyze the representative Men' Gender roles, the related studies and literatures reviewed. Literature reviews and quantitative studies were performed to analyze the changing differences of Korean Men's wear Deign as a symbolic factors of gender role. The results of study are as follows. 1) The representative men's gender roles in 1900's~1920's were 'Patriarchal/ Stern Man'. The narrow V-zone of jacket and shoulder, high shirt collars and well fitted suits expressed the stern images of that times. 2) In 1930's~50's, 'Enervated/ Escapist Man' were the representative images. They were expressed with wide lapels and shoulders, emphasized V-zone and abundant trousers. Especially 40's style was under the influence of American 'Zoot Style'. 3) The representative gender roles were the men of 'Producer/Provider' in 60's~70's. Shortened jacket, wide lapels & neckties, slim trousers were used to express the strong & young images of Producer/ Provider during the industrialization era. 4) The representative gender roles were 'Attentive/ Intellectual/ Beautiful Men' in 80's~90's. The exaggerated round shoulders which were influenced by 'Big Look', and easy silhouette were related with the attentive images.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.6 no.5
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• pp.59-71
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• 2002

The purpose of this study was 1) to analyze the consumers' preference on the recent trend in men's wear according to their lifestyle and 2) to suggest a suitable direction for men's wear planning based on the lifestyle analysis. A survey was applied to obtain the data set responded from 310 male subjects who were aged between thirties and fourties. The main results of this study are summarized as follows: 1) Five types of recent fashion trends were identified through a qualitative analysis on the recent men's wear trend, which were 'Modern classic casual', 'Retro traditional casual', 'Authentic/Ethnic casual', 'Urban dandy street casual' and the 'Refined sportive casual'. 2) The three types of the respondents' lifestyle were identified in this research and named as 'pursuing sense', 'pursuing tradition' and 'conservative indifference'. Examining the preference on fashion trends according to subjects' lifestyle and etc., the preference level of the 'pursuing sense' group on trend was, in general, higher than that of the two other lifestyle groups. The most preferred trend style of 'pursuing sense' group was the 'Modern Classic'. Finally, a suitable direction for men's wear planning was suggested on the result of analysis in this research.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.60 no.10
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• pp.28-46
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• 2010

Variety and individuality are characteristic of consumer in modern society. For the necessity of new designed men's formal suit is on the rise with advance of party culture and change of wedding style. In addition to growing numbers of Korean grooms are getting more interested in make themselves well-groomed on the wedding ceremony. The purpose of this study is to develop the men's formal suit pattern for right fit and better style for Korean grooms. In order to find out how to modify their fit, comparison among the existing patterns was necessary. In this study we proposed new patterns of men's formal suit, a morning coat, a tail coat, tuxedoes, director's suit, three-peaces suit, navy blazer. Considering the results of this study, developed patterns were altered to fit better and to smarter. They were well graded in waistline position, shoulder shape, back princess line shape. Also they were best to move around sleeve and bodice. And the developed patterns were altered to make armhole narrower to make bodice length shorter, to make bodice slimmer. The researcher's pattern's were made up into garments using wool 100%, silk 100%. According to verify the improvements and grade better in both appearance and comport, it will be to take the lead men's formal dress culture and expand the base of popular consume for men's formal wear.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.10 no.6
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• pp.52-62
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• 2006

The purpose of this study is to investigate the changes of modern Korean men's pants design from 1962 to 1998 by reviewing fashion magazine advertisements and pictorials. For theoretical study, the characteristics and the importance of apparel advertisements and the changes of modern Korean men's fashion trend were reviewed. For sample selection, first, 932 pictorials of men';s wear designs from Joongang Magazine, Shin Dong-A, Bokjangwolbo, Meot, Men's Life, WWD, and SFAA's photograph album, published from 1962 to 1998 were selected and then excluded some samples that could not clearly identify the pants design. Content analysis method was used to analyze the content of magazines and pictorials. The final samples are classified into pattern, color, length, silhouette, and existence or non-existence of turn-up. Frequency and $x^2$-test were conducted using a SAS statistics package to analyse the data. The results were as follows. ; (1) Solid pattern was the most prevailed throughout the last four decades and followed by stripe, check, the others, abstract, dot and floral. There is no significant difference in the type of men's pants pattern between each decade. (2) It showed a significant difference in colors of men's pants between decades. The colors in men's wear are divided into nine categories and the order of occurrence are as follows; multi-color is the most frequently shown and followed by brown, gray, blue, black, green, pink, yellow, and red. More various colors appeared over the period, however, multi color was the most popular in all decades but in the 60s. (3) Full length of pants style occupied more than 96% throughout all four decades. Due to the popularity of sports wear in men's fashion during the 90s, the shorts style appeared not only in sports wear and casual wear but also in suit style. (4) There is a significant difference in silhouette of men's pants between decades. The silhouette of men's pants were divided into four types and their order of occurrence are as follows; basic, baggy, fitted, and loose silhouette. Basic silhouette was the most prevailed throughout the whole four decades. (5) A significant difference was shown in the existence or non-existence of turn-up of men's pants between decades. Non-existence of turn-up of men's pants was the most prevailed throughout the whole four decades.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.10 no.3
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• pp.31-43
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• 2006

The purpose of this study is to investigate the changes of modern Korean men's fashion from the 1960s to the 1990s by reviewing fashion magazine advertisements and pictorials. For theoretical study, the characteristics and the importance of apparel advertisements and the changes of modern Korean men's fashion trend were reviewed. On the basis of the theoretical investigation, this study analyzed 932 pictorials from Joongang Magazine, Shin Dong-A, Bokjangwolbo, Meot, Men's Life, WWD, and S.F.F.A's photograph album, published from 1962 to 1998. Content analysis method was used to analyze the content of magazines and pictorials. The 932 samples are classified into apparel types, silhouette, pattern, color, type of breasts, shape of collar, number of button, type of inner wear. Frequency and $x^2$-test were conducted using a SAS statistics package to analyse the data. The results were as follows. The two-piece style prevailed in men's wear during the 60s, 70s, and 90s, while separate style prevailed during the 80s. H silhouette was the most popular during the 60s, 70s and 90s, however, X silhouette dominated the 70s. For patterns, solids were most frequently used throughout the whole 4 decades. In colors, gray was most frequently used during the 60s, and multi color was most frequently used during the 70s, 80s, and 90s. Throughout the whole decades, single breast, tailored collar, two buttons, and dress shirts were the most prevalent styles.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.8 no.6
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• pp.806-821
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• 2000

Each and everything named fashion together with clothes were limited in the boundary of women and men's wear has been slow and narrow in changing speed compared to women's, even there are some differences in accordance time. But maintaining the basic features, men's wear in the latter 20th century has undergone diverse change in the part of materials such as various synthetic fiber, glass, metal, artificial leather and the see-through fabric able to seeing the body wearing the clothes. Therefore, the aim and definition of this study is to present the systematic framework giving help to develop men's wear design newer and more various by considering moulding of materials which existing men's wear could not show up and by grasping material trend of men's clothes in 1990s. The results of the study were summarized as follows : (1) Material containing lustering is categorized as Velvet, Silk, Lustering materials by synthetic fiber and Lustering materials by additional substance. The Velvet generally acknowledged having something to feel womanly image shows the bisexual character coexisting feature of men and women after grafting with men'fashion. The Silk was endowed the role as means of pleasure to express beyond boundary of sex breaking the existing consciousness which men should wear male clothes, not considering differences between men and women. The lustering made by synthetic fiber expressed modern sensitivity aesthetically to the suit. The lustering materials made by additional substance is seen mixed masculine character with womanly character. (2) See-through materials are acknowledged as decadence beauty caused by expanding subjective awareness in beauty. (3) Materials by the sorts of Net is categorized as Lace, Knit The Lace expression seemed to emphases the human liberation of men and women and the humanity from liberation of subjecthood. The Knit can be felt both woman's image and man's image as bisexual image, not raising only one side sex. (4) Elastic materials offered the opportunity to approve exposure in a time when exposure of men's body was not granted ethically. (5) Leather was shown as indication of social status and inferiority and expression of collective resistance against sexual stagnation of men and women.