• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.52 no.5
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• pp.61-77
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• 2002

The purpose of this study is to investigate difference and likeness on the form in women's Hanbok between the later Chosun Dynasty and modern times based on Belong's observing system for 'Apparel-Body Construct'. Belong's framework is composed 5 pairs of contrast word -'Closed or Open', 'Whole or Par', 'Planar Separation or Planar integration'. 'Flat or Rounded', and 'Determinate or Indeterminate'. Major findings of this study are as follows. First, the form of women's Hanbok in later Chosun Dynasty is 'Variably Closed', 'Part' and 'Rounded', whereas that in modern is 'Open', 'Whole' and 'Flat' Women's Hanbok of modern is lesser convex, and more open than that of later Chosun Dynasty according to increasing use of transparent textiles. Moreover, in comparison with old style, that of modern has the tendency of perceiving primarily whole feature by organic linkage of parts. Because of loose fit of Jeogori and rigid DongJong etc, characteristic of 'Plat' strengthened in modern Hanbok. Secondly, women's Hanbok in the later Chosun Dynasty and modern has common properties of 'Planar Seperation' and 'Determinate'. Women's Hanbok belongs to 'Planar Seperation', because the effect cognized to figure and ground. can be found between small parts and whole of Jegori, or can be found between the head and face. Jeuori and waist band, and Chima and under ware. Further more. it can be classified into 'Determinate'. because it use textiles which have no pattern un it or which show a subtle surface effect by texture changing.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.60 no.10
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• pp.100-117
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• 2010

This thesis has three main purposes: first, will show kinds, patterns, types, expression techniques of modern korean women's trimmings by every ten years. Second, it is to trace the effect of each decade on women's Hanbok trimming designs. Third, it will point out factors. that caused the change of modern Korean women's Hanbok trimming design patterns. Henceforth, there comes the result of the research and analysis. Trimming design patterns of modern women's Hanbok can be divided into three categories temporally: The first period of from 1910s to the first half of 1950s saw that design patterns did not changed much from traditional ones. It is because there were many catastrophes such as the invasion of Japanese Empire and Korean War. The compound design had expressed people's wish to earn many sons and babies at the end of Joseon Dynasty. But it turned to wishing luck for individuals affected by individualism and liberalism imported from the west. Realistic designs are the most frequently used and the least lines made up patterns. The second period of from the latter half of 1950s to 1970s saw that women wore their Jeogories and Chimas as suits. Screen printing technique enabled for various design patterns to come out. And the development of textile industry introduced various expression techniques such as making lace, meshing, flocking, burn-out etc cetera. The third period of 1980s saw that Hanbok became a kind of luxurious clothe as people's living standard rose. Hanbok again came into the spotlight, Hanbok designers came forward and their individualities are respected. The characteristic expression technique of grey-dying and geometric design patterns are more frequently used for the simple and modern beauty.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.39 no.1
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• pp.121-132
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• 2015

All aspects of clothing, including color, are a visible form of expression that carries invisible value. The purpose of this work is to study the expression of resistance in the white Hanbok in modern culture, specifically after the 1980s. Koreans have traditionally revered white color and enjoyed wearing white clothes. In Korea, white represents simplicity, asceticism, sadness, resistance against corruption, and the pursuit of innocence. This paper looks at: (i) the universal and traditional values of the color white, (ii) the significance of traditional white Korean clothing, (iii) the resistance characteristics of white in traditional Korean clothes, and (iv) the aesthetic values of white Hanbok. The white Hanbok often connotes resistance when it is worn in modern Korea. It is worn in folk plays, worn by shamans as a shamanist costume, worn by protestors for anti-establishment movements, and worn by social activists or progressive politicians. The fact that the white Hanbok has lost its position as an everyday dress in South Korea (instead symbolizing resistance when it is worn) is an unusual phenomenon. It shows that the white Hanbok, as a type of costume, is being used as a strong means of expression, following a change in the value of traditional costumes as it take on an expressive function.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.23 no.5
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• pp.19-30
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• 2019

The aim of this study is to analyze the stage of image change in Korean fashion design in regards to the simulacre of Jean Baudrillard. The changing phases of Korean fashion design are as follows: First, the initial stage involved simple imitation, which replicated the original as much as possible, it expressed the basic composition of Hanbok, flat cut and rich silhouette, the color scheme of traditional colors, traditional patterns, materials, and traditional ornaments. In the second stage, the subject matter intervened to distort and transform from the original, the basic composition and structure of the Hanbok were barely maintained, they were either removed or part of the structure modified or expressed using modern materials and patterns. The third stage, were based on reality but differed from reality through subject and imagination, and only left a part of the basic composition of Hanbok, and were expressed through the partial modification of the elements of the Hanbok, for instance the silhouette, skirt waist, collar and breast-tie. The fourth stage of pure simulacre, which refers to a new image with complete independence regardless of the reality. This stage differed from the basic structure and composition of Hanbok, and showcased traditional Korean image of Korea's unique cultural elements, such as hanbok or crafts and artworks, in a modern fashion with a modern sense and practicality.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.56 no.2 s.101
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• pp.17-31
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• 2006

This study is tried to identify the changes in modern Hanbok for the past five decades through the literatures and actual materials such as the First Ladies' costume. In Hanbok fashion, there is a trend that influenced by politics, economy and culture just like in western fashion. After liberation from the Japanese colonialism, the most important factors in Hanbok fashion were economic factors caused by the development of textile industry and the dressing attitude of the First Ladies at that time. In 1950s, a modified Hanbok that is easy to wear was popular. It was partly because of the west oriented atmosphere after the Korean War and mainly due to the practical dressing attitude of First Lady, Francesca. In 1960s and 70s, former First Lady Yuk Young Soo who loved and had good taste for Hanbok led the fashion. At that time, high ranking female social leaders as well as general public usually wore Hanbok on formal occasions. Therefore, textile industry for Hanbok developed a lot and tailored shops that specialize Hanbok emerged. In 1980s, as the economy got better, Hanbok was upgraded and it became more luxurious. Traditional Hanbok was revived through a historical investigation. Additionally, the former First Lady Lee Soon Ja helped fostering a luxurious mood as she wore a Hanbok as a formal dress. After 1988 Olympic Games were successfully held, the importance of the traditional culture was emphasized in 1990s and Hanbok followed retro trend rigorously through the academic approaches including a dressing history. Hand painted and naturally dyed Hanboks were strong in this period. Former First Lady Kim Ok Sook's sophisticated Hanbok attire partially had effect on this mood. However, From the late 1990s Hanbok became less popular. It was partly because the former First Lady Son Myoung Sun and Lee Hee Ho preferred western style dresses and did not play a role as Hanbok fashion leaders.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.15 no.2
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• pp.109-121
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• 2013

Modern Hanbok uses newly different color coordination based on traditional color coordination and symbolic meaning. Thus, this study would investigate the aspects of color coordination and symbolic meaning and present the characteristics of Hanbok as the data of corresponding period in the modern times. In order to investigate recent trend of preferred colors and color coordination of Hanbok, this study focused on the period of 2005~2010. When analyzing colors of Jegori(jacket), Wh, Y, B, YG, P and Gy series are shown in order. For trends for color of Chima(skirt), Pk, R, P, Gy and Bk series are shown in order. When you look into the color coordination of skirt and jacket on whole, color coordination of Pk-Wh represents the highest frequency. Color coordinations of Pk-Y, Pk-B, R-Y, R-G and Pk-G are followed in order. Color coordinations of R-YG, Bk-Wh, O-Y, P-Wh, Pk-YG, Gy-Y, R-Wh series and Gy-Wh are followed in order. When looking into characteristics of overall color coordination of Hanbok, it was shown that there were many opportunities to meet a variety of culture and various colors had emerged depending on individual taste and skin color in the modern times within the framework of basic colors of woman's 'Nokeuihongsang'(Green upper garment and red skirt) R-G, Y series, which are traditionally inherited. In addition, unlike existing traditional color coordination of five elements in the past, P, Gy and Bk series of color appeared in the skirt and Jacket. It could be affected by fashionable drama and films at that time and newly attempted colors ahead of fashion were reflected on the magazine. Therefore, it implied that it naturally gave new awareness of colors to the general public and the width of selection of colors became diverse.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.29 no.1
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• pp.65-86
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• 2021

This study aims to develop a hanbok design method in response to recent changes in consumption trends that emphasize new aesthetic and cultural values, which contrast with the existing cultural order and repetitive normative styles in fashion designing. With this in mind, our study explores the main features of deconstruction fashion design as a theoretical guide for developing a methodology for deconstruction hanbok design, on the basis of which new, experimental and creative hanbok design works can be produced. To do this, we first investigate current trends in hanbok design and changing concepts of Korean fashion design through literature review of previous studies. Secondly, we explore deconstructionism and analyze its features to lay down the foundation for a post-modern approach in hanbok design. As the result of analysis, the main features of deconstruction fashion design are summarized as the following: 1) non-finishing, 2) decomposing and recomposing, 3) recycling, 4) transparent, 5) grunge, 6) flattening, and 7) exaggeration. Based on the identified core features of deconstruction fashion design, we develop a creative method of hanbok design in the context of modern Korean fashion design. Finally, we show five design outputs via a 3D digital fashion design process using the CLO3D software program.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.51 no.2
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• pp.27-42
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• 2001

The objectives of this study are to give a definition and to find out the background and the pursuits of Saenghwal Hanbok. Conclusions are described as follows : 1. Saenghwal Hanbok and Gaeryang Hanbok are used together at the same tome, but they are different the background and the pursuits. Gaeryang Hanbok was pursued practical aspects - activities, simplification, sanitation, courtesy, economy, and diversity. And then Saenghwal Hanbok was added the pursuits of Minjung's image, traditional image, modern esthetic. 2. The background of Saenghwal Hanbok is divided into two group. One is the Minjung Hanbok in University, and the other is the recreated Hanbok in mass fashion. The former was effected to youth culture, political quarrel of culture movement, anti-government group. The Latter was a tendency toward reviving the tradition. 3. The characters of Saenghwal Hanbok were a national tradition, a resistance. the image of poor Minjung, a revival of the tradition, and a diversity and negotiation of post-modernism.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.12 no.3
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• pp.121-132
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• 2010

The purpose of this research was to analyze the Korean Formative-Artistic Characteristics which were expressed by Hanbok designers. In this research, Hanbok style is a combination of two main things: formative-artistic factors of the Korean past, which naturally focuses on the peculiarity of the tradition and the modern aspects of clothing. Hanbok fashion is defined as all products created by Hanbok designers that incorporate traditional design factors, but do not follow it exactly. There are four formative-artistic characteristics of Korean designs in the Hanbok fashion. The first is the practical usage of the form and the second is the application of texture, color and patterns of materials which are synonymous with traditional Korean costumes; the third, by utilizing specific features, such as a the string of Jeogori(jacket), the round line of Jeogori sleeve, quilting, slit of Dofo (coat), the line of goreum and git (collar), the beauty of the Hanbok can be expressed in various ways; finally, the decorations added to the clothing, like embroidery, dying, patchwork, and beaten silver have been used to express Korean beauty in a modern sense. At the conclusion of the research, the study suggests the following recommendations to upgrade the Hanbok designs and the Hanbok industry. The first recommendation is that continuous design research be done for the development and popularity of the brand image; secondly, collaboration with specialists from other areas of fashion would be beneficial; thirdly, it would be a positive development if Hanbok designers studied Western clothing; and fourthly, Hanbok materials should continue to evolve and be developed.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.30 no.5
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• pp.631-655
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• 2022

Modern Hanbok tends to use new colors based on traditional colors and their symbolic meanings. In addition to the traditional colors, various expressions have been increased, it is necessary to consider the color and color trend used in modern clothing. This study focused on the period 2011 - 2020 and analyzed the main color and coloring method of top and skirt by year with 450 data from a total of 81 wedding magazines. The results of examining the characteristics of traditional colors during the target period are as follows. First, the main color of the Jeogori showed a distribution of various colors in the first half, but the main color of the skirt concentrated on black, white and light pink in the second half. Second, while the use of blue and green systems decreased, Dang-ui color changed to warm yellow, green, and red systems. The Baeja used plain dark white in the first half; however in the latter half, they changed to white or accented colors. The one-piece used various colors in the first half, but only black and white appeared in the second half. Third, in the upper and lower colors of Hanbok, the blue-red color, the traditional contrast color of the first half, decreased significantly in the second half. The appearance rate of proximity for the complementary color harmony of white-red color and the adjacent color harmony of white-blue increased.