• 한국패션뷰티학회지
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• 제4권4호
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• pp.25-32
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• 2006

The purpose of this study is to analyze formative features of women shoes, to develop distinctive shoes design for coming fashion trend. the methods of this study are documentary research and case study. In the theoretical study, this study has catched the origin of shoes and the changes of shoes design of each era. for the study of formative features of women shoes in 1990's, 215 kinds of pictures have been selected from in professional shoes magazines. The results of analysis are as follow. Woman shoes categorized the design factors into shape, material, decoration. Reformational shape that reconstructs old shape of shoes by comtemporary aesthetic, shape in that dual images were mixed, re-created shape that was constructed through the reconstruction of structures and shapes of shoes. Material image was strengthened by varying patterns of unburned calf, leopard and zebra. Avant-garde was appeared by using naturalistic material to represent natural beauty or using merry, daring material. Post-modern tendency was appeared like using brassiere strap instead of back strap or using round string in elegant shoes.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제21권5호
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• pp.865-879
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• 1997

Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles Vol. 21, Nt. 5 (1997) p. 865∼879 The purpose of the study is to identify a historical change about the women's underwear and trousers this nation of ours until an ancient times to modern ages. Because the record of the women's trousers exist scarcely anything, the study refers to several documents, for example, the literatures of the Chinese and the Chosun Dynasty, the Koryu's fresco, the Tou of Shinra, the painting of the rock face, the archaeological dresses and genre pictures, and The folkways methods through the residents is used to collect and to arrange of an enlightened age and modern times. Originally, the women's trousers appeared for the nomadism and the hunting in the northern distric and the northeastern provinces. Male and female, old and young wear the trousers which are the clothes native to Korea. The trousers which are originally narrow trousers are influnced by Chinese wide trousers. The trousers at the time of Samsuk hand down until Korea. The Skirt on the trousers is nothing but a courtesy. But gradually, it is distinguished only the trousers, and then, there are exchanged an underwear which not only the protection angainst the cold but also the beautiful. Therefore, the form of skirt is diminished, and the underwear is simplified as the increasing status and the activity of woman in the age of civilization. In a way, the reform trousers and Three-kingdom era trousers appeared and the Dansogok and Sogok disappeared at present. There are confirmed in my investigation of folk customs.

• 복식
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• 제59권2호
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• pp.87-100
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• 2009

This study examines black images as 'the other' in history and aims to analyze images of black female fashion models which have been changed in modern society, particularly in $21^{st}$ century post-modern world. Black images, established historically as illustrated on the paintings in $19^{th}$ century, were disseminated in $20^{th}$ century throughout the world especially by way of TV and movies as several typical images such as 'Coon' the clown as the object of entertainment, 'Buck' wild and resistant black rascal, and 'Mammy' obedient and fat black woman servant. The result of image analysis of black female fashion models, can be summarized as following five images. The first is the image of 'powerful'. Black female models frequently represent healthy image which reflects black people's excellence in sports and also the traditional Image of black skin color as strength. The second is the image of 'sexy'. They are adored as having perfect ideal body shape. They show off their sex appeal with their body. The third image is 'multicultural'. Black models represent cultures besides the western. The fourth is the image of 'fantastic'. In contrast to the real, resonable things, black female models represent wild, fancy, ghost things. The fifth is the image of 'racial discrimination' By arranging them in contrast to whites, a metaphoric image of racial discrimination can be displayed. The result shows that tome of racial images still remain on the other way.

• International Journal of Costume and Fashion
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• 제14권2호
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• pp.19-32
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• 2014

The sewing machine was the most widely-advertised item in mid-Victorian English periodicals. However, no historians have so far analyzed how English advertisers created the link between the domestic sewing machine and middle-class women, or what impact they may have had on gender relations. This paper treats sewing machines as a medium to enhance our view of gender and social history, consumer culture as well as material culture studies. Studying the advertisements of sewing machines reveals the traditional values and modern consumer culture of mid-nineteenth England, and also offers a sense for how advertisers expected people to react. Sewing machines could not only offer women aspiration and authority, but could also function as a timesaver through which a woman could attain a truly modern lifestyle. Buying a sewing machine for their wives symbolized their status as a breadwinner and a caring husband, as well as serving as an appreciation of their wives' domesticity. Sewing machines also provoked anxiety for both sexes because some believed that women would lose their morality and gender identity, whereas others believed that if relieved of domestic drudgery women would have time to educate themselves, which threatened to men and the gender hierarchy.

• 패션비즈니스
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• 제1권4호
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• pp.19-33
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• 1997

This study will analyze Karl Largerfeld's design of Chanel to suggest the designer's strategy succeeding haute couture. His significant stylistic interests include the revealed structure of the garment, the modifications between fine art and fashion, the combination of the traditional restraint of the couture with the flourishes of the wildest street fashions and effects that turn garments upsides down or insides out. The House of Chanel today recognizes that commercial success ultimately lies in re-working Chanel's signature designs in a modern idiom. That the essence of theses designs remains so desirable is due to Karl Lagerfeld's successful interpretation and is ultimately an accolade to the founder-Gabrielle Chanel. During the reign of Coco it would have been difficult for any woman who wanted to look young and modern to go wrong with her fashions. The same can be said of Karl Lagerfeld for Chanel today. Clothes with the Chanel imprimatur no doubt will remain just as fashionable into the twenty-first century.

• 복식
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• 제61권8호
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• pp.100-113
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• 2011

The earlier notion of feminism regarding gender equality was changed into that of Postfeminism because of gender differences. The idea of Postfeminism has been present since the 1980s but has been influenced by modern culture theories such as Postmodernism, Poststructuralism, Theory of Power and Discourse and Psychoanalysis. Various features of Postfeminism are found in the medieval warrior images of contemporary fashion. Warrior costumes were men's exclusive property in the medieval ages, but as it is introduced as women's wear in the 21st century, it shows us new fashion images which are constructed by gender deconstruction, differences and pastiche. In this regard, the purpose of this study is to examine a key characteristic of Postfeminism fashion. An article described the historical costumes of medieval warriors and refocused on the development processes of feminism and then conducted an analysis on formative characteristics and Postfeminism tendencies in contemporary women's wear from 2000 to 2011. The results were that materials such as metallic and flexible materials, monotonic and red colors and detailed patterns of armor were used to display forms of exaggeration and restraint. These elements fully and correctly expressed the image of a medieval warrior woman in contemporary fashion. Postfeminism fashion is constructed with feminine power, gendered identity, sensual elegance and a postmodern body. Postfeminism is the contemporary cultural icon and is continuously influencing modern fashion design in the 21st century in a positive and powerful way.

• 모자간호학회지
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• 제2권1호
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• pp.70-86
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• 1992

What is the meaning of menopause experienced by urban Korean women? Nurses need an under standing of menopause as it is experienced by women themselves. Nursing needs to build knowledge of womens' health experiences. This phenomenological study examined what menopause means to modern Korean woman to build a structure of knowledge useful for practice to enhance the quality of life of women throughout this experience. Traditional definition of menopause according to physiological changes, as illness and more recently as psychosociocultural phenomena were examined along with the folk lore information generally available in the society A review of the research and scientific literature was done from the perspectives of four models including the medical model of menopause as disease, the psychosocial model as positive and negative behavioral responses to menopause, a feminist model of menopause as a time of rebirth and a nursing model of the changing patterns of meaning, rythms and transformation women experience through menopause. Van Kaam's method was used to analyse data audio-recorded during interviews by the investigator with 65 women, 40 to 60 years of agey whose confidentility was assured. Interpretation of the data was enhanced luther by consultation with professional colleugues and with informants. Four rhythmical patterns of process emerged : from suffering to comfort, from oppression to freedom from being a good wife and wise mother to becoming a woman and from a hard life to an abundant life. The detailed common elements making up each of the four patterns and definitions of each pattern were presented. Each pattern was discussed critically from the point of view of medical, psychosociocultural, womens' and nursing models. The structural definition of the synthesis of the four process patterns was stated as : in spite of suffering the middle-aged urban Korean woman find she is able to help herself to feel comfortable and to realize release as she moves from oppression to liberation and freedom from being a good wife and wise mother she experiences rebirth as a woman : she begins to live a profitable and valuable life : her life becomes one of transformed abundant living. The definition transcends the medical and phychosociocultural model to embody a nursing model. The analysis was critiqued by using Parse' Human Becomming theory of nursing because the emerging themes were process patterns. Parse' theory provides and explanation of the experience of menopause consistant with the data which enhances nursing understanding of womens' experience of menopause. Parse' practice methodology provide guidance for promoting womens' quality of life throughout the experience of menopause. Feminist analysis contributes valuable critique to nursing research, richly expanding the perspective from traditional approaches to promote understanding of the meaning of womens' health experiences.

• 복식
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• 제36권
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• pp.239-262
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• 1998

The pursuit of freedom by the individual--desire to be liberated from all forms of restrictions-- is one of the defining character-istic of the modern society. As costume is, in part, a product of the spirit of the times, it was only natural that this desire for freedom would find its expression in modern costume as well. Among various forms of restrictions, differentiaton by sex has placed one of the most significant binding influences on individual behavior. From early times, the dichotomous division by sex was incorporated into the disign of costume, and the traditional differestriction of costume by sex imposed a significant restriction on the background,“the modern androhynous look”was born as a by-product of the sexual liberation movement in the second half of the 20th century, based on the concept of the individual as a complete human being rather than as a member exclusively of either the male or the female sex. This paper seeks to examine the androgynous look within a coherent theoretical frame-work, and explore new design possibilities by analyzing and understanding the visual characteristics of the androgynous look. In addition, this paper seeks to define the functional aspects of the androgynous look based on the premise that costume is an embodiment of the spirit of the times. As for research methodology, both theoretical and historical methods are employed. Through a theoretical examination of historical documents, the meaning of the androgynous look is explored from various angles, and order to examine its place in modern fashion, an-drogynous styles are categorized and system atically analyzed. The main findings of the paper can be summarized as follows : 1. Androgyny is a compound word consisting of“andro-”(meaning man) and“gyn-”(meaning woman). In modern times, this word has been associated with the socio-cultural aspect of gender rather than the physical or physiological aspect with the pshchological characteristics of the male and female sexes. Androgynous styles also appear in fashion and general arts such as drama, film, dance, and music. In fashion, the androgynous look, represented by the visual superimposition of “masculine”and “faminine”elements, has emerged as a major element of the 20th-century costume, and has gained broad acceptance among those free spirits wishing to be liberated from the conventional conceptions of male clothing, and the unisex look. 3. The androgynous look in modern fashion reflects the spirit of the 20th century society and culture, and performs various functions as follows : expression of fun, change in gender roles, expression of the inner consciousness, and pursuit of the ideal human type.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제7권6호
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• pp.98-115
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• 1999

As sports infiltrates each field of modern society and becomes familiar, sports wear was changed functionally and was introduced and enveloped into everyday dress. Modern sports wear has been the settled in everyday life deeply and become the clothes of life which are worn regardless of place, time and age. The aim of this paper was to clarify what kind of fashion of sports style would be given to the modern people. In this study, sports wear which has become everyday dress classified from a gender point of view. It was divided into masculine image, feminine image, and neutral image. Sports wear of masculine image generated a silhouette which emphasized the shoulder with the aspiration for youth and health. Wide shoulder was considered as the symbol of masculine beauty and the expression of healthy beauty. It was reflected well in body conscious look. And owing to the development of up-to-data materials, innovation of design, and the study of human body technology, the functional character was settled in the sports wear which showed masculine image. Sports wear of feminine image was represented fashion of body exposure, body feet with body conscious look, and romantic mode. This image was expressed fashion as comforts, pleasant, active design, materials, color, and romantic feminine beauty. Sports wear of neutral image was expressed into unisex clothes. This cloths have no difference in gender, age, and class. It was used as casual sports wear. In the 1960s, young generation participated in such street sports as street basketball and skate. They usually sore the sports wears of neutral image such as cycling, skating, and ski. In the materials of sports, the development of up-to-data material like lycra made the sayings lifelike, “up-to-data material is the second skin” It show that glamorous feminine image and strong masculine image coexisted. The contemporary concept of sportswear is no longer limited to those clothes for sports found in such places like tennis court or swimming pool. Now, the sports wear become more like casual activity wear all classes of people can enjoy in their life regardless of where they are, when they wear, and even how old they are.

• 한국의상디자인학회지
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• 제11권3호
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• pp.27-41
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• 2009

As for modern people, the fashion accessory plays a role in allowing the whole coordination in clothing to be highlighted, receives environmental factors in the complementary relationship with clothing, and is being progressed rapidly as well. Among accessories, it is considered to be probably significant to examine especially about the historical consideration and the transitional process in bag, which becomes a means of expressing free individuality in fashion while recognizing importance of bag, which is being developed today as a necessary article along with diverse lifestyles in each individual. Accordingly, the purpose of this study was to examine which correlation a bag comes to have with clothing according to a historical change in fashion and was changed in the transitional process of historical consideration on bag from the latter half of the medieval times to the modern times. Also, it tries to analyze on features in a form, material, kind, and color by period in a bag. Thus, the aim is to be conducive to a future qualitative research on bag Through the research process, it could be known about which a bag has been changed into diverse forms while experiencing several processes in order to conform with a flow of clothing, which is required by society according to a change in period, and about its historical significance, value, and aesthetic characteristics. It was certainly necessary for walking about with putting commodity necessary for people in it. As one of accessories that cannot be separated from clothing, it makes it available for knowing user's social standing and position and living scale, and makes it realized for the importance influence upon establishing a woman's identity.