• International Journal of Costume and Fashion
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• v.15 no.1
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• pp.39-49
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• 2015

Heavenly Kingdom was known for their strict discipline and law as well as their anti-corruption practices and for putting up unconventional ideas to rule its kingdom. They became weak as their leadership was split along with the power struggles that occurred within their kingdom. Heavenly Kingdom's style of dress also ended during this period, but their philosophy continues to influence the style of dress. Taiping rebellion was modern China's biggest internal disturbance which prior studies included political ideals, gender equality and the peasant movement. My research is to associate Heavenly Kingdom's ideas and their dress style by analyzing its relations. Their form of clothing was similar to the Qing Dynasty but the same. They wanted to restore their identity of the Han(漢) while their ideology was oriented in creating a large enough military power to go against the corrupt Qing Dynasty as seen in their military uniform. This research is to analyze about Heavenly Kingdom's ideology with regard to their style of dress but because of their short existence, there are only small remains of artifacts and clothing available which limits this research. This research has to developing further research as I gather more additional data.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.57 no.6 s.115
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• pp.112-121
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• 2007

Gamtu was a name recorded in Korean in respect of 'Mo(帽), Moja(帽子), Somoja(小帽子), Jeongmoja(頂帽子), Jeonmo(氈帽), Yangmomo(羊毛帽), Tangjeon(宕巾)' from the beginning to the end of Joseon dynasty which includes various shapes and uses according to wordbook. Also, Gamtu has various phonetic transcriptions, however Manchu pronunciation of 'Moja(帽子)' is indicated as 'Kamtoo' in $\ulcorner$Dongmunyuhae(同文類解)$\lrcorner$ so the origin of the word Gamtu should be discussed. Accordingly, I want to clearly define the concept of Gamtu in this research by studying the history and shape of Gamtu, and Chinese entries annotated in Korean as Gamtu. Even though we can assume that the etymology of Gamtu is Manchu language as Manchu pronunciation of 'Moja(帽子)' is indicated as 'Kamtu' in $\ulcorner$Dongmunyuhae(同文類解)$\lrcorner$, I think the Korean pronunciation of Gamtu already existed because there already was a Chinese transcription of 'Gamtu' in the Goryeosa(高麗史). So, we can conjecture that Gamtu could be originated from Yeojin language which is the same lineage of Manchu. As a conclusion, Somoja(小帽子), Jeongmoja(頂帽子), Moja(帽子), Jeonmo(氈帽), Yangmomo(羊毛帽), Tangjeon(宕巾) had a common feature that they were produced to fit head without visor, and were annotated as Gamtu per woolen cloth was used as Jeonmo(氈帽), Yangmomo(羊毛帽), and Gamtu was just a Korean transcription that includes these names.