• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.6 no.4
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• pp.213-228
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• 1998

The purpose of this study is to defined the conception and characteristics of Post-Modernism and dealt with how they are expressed in costume. Major characteristics of Post-Modernism are Historicism, Pluralism, and Eclecticism and these are reflected in the costume. 1. Historicism of Post-Modernism is a trend recreate artistic symbolism which Modernism lacked in reference to historical factors of the past. It has been as a trend of restoration and an ornamental trend can be included in the category of historicism in that it restored historical ornaments. 2. Pluralism of Post-Modernism means an open-hearted attitude toward everything. In costume, it has been expressed as a trend of mixed fashion style such as ecology, street fashion and futurism, collapse and mix of genres, diversity of materials and emphasis on texture caused by assemblage, change of the use to escape from the conventional system and avant-garde. 3. Eclecticism of Post-Modernism is expressed as a blended fashion style based on the principal of de-dualism. It has several trends ; exotic trend by mixing both oriental and western culters, androgyny which is a mixed image of an and woman, and a trend to use many kinds of materials together influenced by collage which is an eclectic mode.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.59 no.1
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• pp.119-135
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• 2009

The purpose of this study was to examine formative aesthetic characteristics and aesthetical value of the intraculturalism expressed in contemporary fashion and to confirm the functions of intraculturalism to establish, visualize, perform the racially indeterminate, ethnically neutral, culturally diverse or ambiguous identity. For this study, the applications of the intraculturalism shown in mass media and consumer culture, such as music, fashion advertisements and collections of high fashion designers from 2004 to 2008 have been analyzed and compared. The results were as follows: The Intraculturalism is reflected in the muticultural music such as Afropean, Jawaiian, Reggaeton and Asian Hip Hop. Intracultural music genres create the hybrid music and fashion culture through mixing, matching and blending one and another culture. Advertisement campaigns for Louis Vuitton, YSL Beauty, Gap and H&M stores have all purposely highlighted models with mixed racial heritage. It is reflected in the latest youth fashion market trend using face that are ethnically ambiguous. The increasingly multiracial, multicultural population is due to intermarriage and waves of immigration. The rising mixed race designers, Narciso Rodriguez, Hussein Chalayan, Vera Wang and DooRi Chung, not only compromise and amalgamate different cultural elements of their heritage and contemporary life but also create new look and fashion image. The characteristics of intraculturalism expressed in the 21st century fashion could categorized into de-genre, de-nationality, de-race and de-culture.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.22 no.1
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• pp.3-17
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• 1998

The aim of this thesis is to clarify the application of Derrida's 'Deconstruction' theory on the contemporary costume. Derrida's theory of 'Deconstruction' took into the 'decentring' concept which deconstructed the subjects i.e., Occidentalism, Elitecentrism, logocentrism, mancentrism etc.; it deconstructed the dichotomy that had been expressed in the traditional occidental metaphysics, by raising the isolated ones such as the Orient, sub-culture, ir- rationality, madness, woman etc. Summarizing the conclusion of this thesis as follows, 1. The impact of 'Deconstruction' from the inside is to be seen in the principles of intertextuality of the costume, therefore it has shown the bisexual costume by interacting gender, and the costume by mixing time, place and occasion. 2. $\ulcorner$Dis$\lrcorner$ deft phenomena which shows the concept of escape from the center were presented as decentring, dislocation, discomposition, disorder. 3. Undecidability principle resulted in the undecidable presentation in the wearing styles such as wearing, unwearing, layering. Contemporary costume by the 'Deconstruction' from the inside regards costume as a dynamic text, which has attempted the interaction with the other genres. It deconstructed the teleology of the costume function, and it accepts all the various aesthetic principles.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.5 no.5
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• pp.470-480
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• 2003

This study looks upon the borderless phenomenon of genres and at the disintegration of boundaries in fashion, the current 'borderless trend', and analyze modern men's fashion having borderless phenomenon under social changes and disclose current men's fashion. The borderless phenomenon of men's fashion declines traditional image of gender and expresses modern men's images strongly in accordance with social changes: Thus, in modern days, men's images have changed from muscular men having show-off and superiority to women-like men having pearly skin and slender figure. Men's fashion also looked for feminization to let men like make-up, beauty salon, cosmetic surgery and women-like hair style, etc. Men have been also given women's sexy and sensual beauty to put on innerwear as an outerwearization. The Influx and mixing of mutually different cultures is expressed in Hippie, Ethnic, Oriental trends. Mutually opposing country's factors mix so that a new culture is established. Also, the sharing of fashions amongst younger and older generation has occurred for reasons that are similar to the reasons above.

• The Journal of the Convergence on Culture Technology
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• v.5 no.1
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• pp.37-43
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• 2019

Korean dramas since the 2000s are continuously experimenting with new narrative possibilities. Especially in the recent Korean drama, various modes of hybridization, mixing, and transformation are attempted. Therefore, this study aims to examine the consensus of literature and drama through popular drama in 2010. This study examines how literary texts are utilized in dramas through the use of Kim Eun-sook's lonely and glorious god-goblin and gentleman's dignity, and how these narrative and visual effects are gained. These two dramas are not only popular drama in Korea but also have important implications for interpreting literature and drama consciousness because they actively utilize literary texts in drama. This is the process of interpreting the main scene in which literature and the drama conspire, and grasping its significance. Through this study, we analyze the process of borrowing the part of the text of the text, drama, and taking the effect of storytelling by using 'book' as its materiality. This will confirm the way in which various genres are mixed and juxtaposed in one video text and its effects.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.24 no.3
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• pp.17-31
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• 2022

The purpose of this research is to suggest diverse directions for eco-friendly knit designing through analyzing the characteristics of Stella McCartney's knit designs. The first stage of the research was to explore the characteristics of eco-friendly fashion design based on literature review. The next stage was to categorize the characteristics of eco-friendly design found in Stella McCartney' knit fashion based on the precedent analysis. The data collected showed 274 examples from 40 Stella McCartney collections, including Spring, Resort, Pre-Fall, and Fall Ready-to-wear collections between 2013 and 2022. All information was collected using www.vogue.com. As a result, the characteristics of Stella McCartney's knit design were classified into four directopms: 1) Perpetual Naturalism, 2) Cultural Complexity, 3) Practical Functionality, and 4) Subcultural Reproducibility. The first characteristic, 'Perpetual Naturalism' values the continuous symbiosis between animals and human beings, thereby protecting global environmental value. Stella McCartney's knit design continuously showed a longing for nature's beauty through fashion design, which allowed people to enjoy the meaning of symbiosis between human beings and animals. Second, 'Cultural Complexity' is the characteristic that appears in Stella McCartney's knit fashion design when collaborating with various artists and/or mixing traditional knit motives inspired by traditional cultures and retro moods. Third, 'Practical Functionality' is the design characterisitic that allows items to be worn for a long time as it is comfortable, simple, and practical. Stella McCartney's knit designs pursue easy-to-wear designs that are comfortable and have practical designs with simple details. Lastly, 'Subcultural Reproducibility' showed in Stella McCartney's knit designs reflect Hippie culture, which pursued a rejection of conventional values, and promoted sustainable energy. This culture peaked in the 1960s and 1970s, when 'Beatles' were mainly working. Additionally, retro styled knit designs inspired by other various music genres from the 1980s and 1990s appeared in this category as well.

• Journal of Korea Entertainment Industry Association
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• v.13 no.8
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• pp.231-242
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• 2019

(2014) directed by British-born second generation Iranian-American Ana Lily Amirpour, set in 'the Iranian ghost-town Bad City' attempts to make how the hybridization of multi-cultures makes interesting interpretations culture-politically, presenting a female vampire skateboarding in a striped t-shirt and a black chador. In traditional horror films, mainly male-Dracula was the center of the vampire narrative as other, but since the post-modernism era, vampire films try to shift women from the passive and dependent victim to the subjective and independent main agent. And the main character of the film, 'The Girl' who is a female Muslim vampire takes a step forward to punish men who commit gender violence. Shot in black and white, the film puts images ahead of narrative, while featuring Iranian actors, speaking Farsi. Furthermore, the film crosses over Iranian politics into American-European pop cultures with this eclectic mix of Iran's rock, British electro-pop and Ennio-Morricone-like western stylings. This study focuses on the style featured in which has successfully transformed and transplanted a vampire story into a critical contemporary discourse, mixing multiple genres and citing cultural trends while not following the traditional conventions of vampire films.

• (The) Research of the performance art and culture
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• no.32
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• pp.209-241
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• 2016

"Women's Nong-ak (農樂, Traditional Korean music performed by farmers)" was born together with "Maiden group." This study focuses on the reason why women appeared as principal agents of Nong-ak which was almost exclusive to men previously and especially, on the appearance of women Nong-ak Artists who was previously worked in Traditional Drama Troupe. This study empirically deals with details of activities of Maiden's (娘子) Nong-ak troupes and Girls' (少女) Nong-ak troupes through newspaper articles. Women Nong-ak Artists enjoyed popularity with their peculiar attractions. Participating in Nong-ak contests and collecting money for their performances, women Nong-ak Artists learned their skills form masters of Woodo Nong-ak and attracted attention with their colorful costumes. Women of Nong-ak circle especially saw through the trend of the time, expanded their arena of activities and exercised flexibility and ability to react quickly to changing situations while mixing with various genres. In particular, young girls were mobilized to show value and marketability of Korean culture as cultural medium who decorated "Pure Nong-ak art stage." They were no different from "Pretty dolls dancing like angels" who could not purse their interest and economic benefit or incite political cause and their patrons were domestic and overseas political figures. Women artists, who put Nong-ak on the stage in the name of Maiden's (娘子) Nong-ak troupes and Girls' (少女) Nong-ak after the liberation from Japanese colonial rule, contributed to expansion of market base. Women Nong-ak artists, who dominated a century in such troupes as Sadangpae, Hyuprulsa, Maiden's (娘子) Nong-ak troupes, Girls' (少女) Nong-ak troupes and Women Nong-ak troupes, were the very heroines who overturned the conventions of "male predominance (男尊女卑)" which filled Nong-ak arena and cultivated a new tradition of Nong-ak culture.